【convoy】Sample L6 with GT 12V 4A 90CRI LED

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sandro
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Barkuti wrote:

1stein wrote:
RapidLux wrote:
1stein wrote:
..I’m thinking of an anti – fog flashlight but I’d like to ask what do you think.
Which one can get through the fog better, monochrome 590nm or “composed” with dominant 590nm? I also have XP-E2 with monochrome 590nm….



Mmm, sorry if late to the party but, how about using a (high CRI) “warm” white emitter? 2700K SST-20 or 2700K LH351D, for example.

Hey Barkuti, no problem, it’s always good to hear your 2 cents.
Don’t know, maybe warm white is better. Maybe red… Glasses
I’ve decided to start with yellow since I remember some cars use yellow anti-fog lights. Warm white is typical for old-fashioned bulb lights and for some reason somebody decided yellow will suit better.
But it may also be some other color/wavelength is better (e.g. green or red) but not commonly used due to interference with colors meaning.
Well, first I’m gonna build the light, then we’ll see if any difference can be spotted.

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Looking forward for the 4*18A with SBT90 !

WTB: Jetbeam TCR-1 or Sunwayman V10R Ti

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Yokiamy wrote:
Looking forward for the 4*18A with SBT90 !

 

Simon confirmed several times there won’t be 4x18 but 3x21 instead 

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

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id30209 wrote:

Yokiamy wrote:
Looking forward for the 4*18A with SBT90 !

 


Simon confirmed several times there won’t be 4×18 but 3×21 instead 

I would be happy with that as well Wink
My wallet won’t, since i need to buy three new (matching) cells which i need to hold together.
Plenty of 18650’s though

WTB: Jetbeam TCR-1 or Sunwayman V10R Ti

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Wouldn’t it be possible to use 3 pcs 21700 -> 18650 adaptors? Need only to make the springs somewhat tighter, to also hold unprotected 18650 in place.

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id30209 wrote:

Yokiamy wrote:
Looking forward for the 4*18A with SBT90 !

 


Simon confirmed several times there won’t be 4×18 but 3×21 instead 

There will be two versions
3*21700 with SBT90.2 and 4*18650 with SBT90.2

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Simon Mao wrote:
id30209 wrote:

Yokiamy wrote:
Looking forward for the 4*18A with SBT90 !

 


Simon confirmed several times there won’t be 4×18 but 3×21 instead 

There will be two versions
3*21700 with SBT90.2 and 4*18650 with SBT90.2


Nice

My Lights (Updated: Dec 1, 2020)

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Simon Mao wrote:
id30209 wrote:

Yokiamy wrote:
Looking forward for the 4*18A with SBT90 !

 

Simon confirmed several times there won’t be 4x18 but 3x21 instead 

There will be two versions 3*21700 with SBT90.2 and 4*18650 with SBT90.2

Simon (and the others)...

Will the 4x18650 version require to use button top batteries? If so, I will look forward even more to seeing the 3x21700 version.

Why? Because a) button top batteries are harder to get and b) button top batteries often add significantly more contact resistance, especially those with cheap joint-welded buttons that tend to rust quickly.

My hopes are that these new lights have a different battery compartment with brass buttons on the positive poles of the head unit instead of a brass ring (which requires buttons on the batteries).

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Will the 21700 version work with unprotected Samsung BT 18650 30Q’s, using battery adaptors? Or will the 30Q’s be too short?

sandro
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I think Simon uses this adapter for flat top batteries:

https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1700979#comment-1700979

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Simon Mao wrote:
oweban wrote:
The only issue with using flat top cells in a 3×21700 light is that inherently those designs have a “ring” for the driver (see: SP36, Q8, MS06 etc) – it’d need an adapter like the one in the 4×18A with brass slugs to work. I’m all for that though! (I still want to buy that adapter by itself…..)

Dont worry ,i have adapter for 3*21700, too

!https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50399661856_d5ef8f26c2_b.jpg!


Awesome Simon! Other companies could take example from your thorough designs
Artiet59
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Simon Mao wrote:
id30209 wrote:

Yokiamy wrote:
Looking forward for the 4*18A with SBT90 !

 


Simon confirmed several times there won’t be 4×18 but 3×21 instead 

There will be two versions
3*21700 with SBT90.2 and 4*18650 with SBT90.2


Amazing! I don’t know if it could get any better.
Artiet59
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Yokiamy wrote:
id30209 wrote:

Yokiamy wrote:
Looking forward for the 4*18A with SBT90 !

 


Simon confirmed several times there won’t be 4×18 but 3×21 instead 

I would be happy with that as well Wink
My wallet won’t, since i need to buy three new (matching) cells which i need to hold together.
Plenty of 18650’s though


18650batterystore.com you can get (3) 40t plus shipping for about $20 (US). But i know what you mean.
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Hello Simon,

In this listing:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001683334790.html

You mention, that driver has 4.8A current, but for this CSLMN1 specific tint (.FY), only between 2.5-3A is recommended. Above 3A, output flats out, and at ~5A, output is even less, than at ~3A – this means, efficiency drops very fast.

Look at datasheet: https://dammedia.osram.info/media/resource/hires/osram-dam-15011579/KY%2...

I would strongly recommend replacing the driver to 8×7135 driver (~2.8A).

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I think all the yellow CSLMN1 variant has the same specs as the white variant in paper. The white version output peaks at 4.5A-5.0A according to a test and 5.75A according to another.

I can’t find any test for the yellow variant, do you have one? The datasheet only shows data for up to 3A as for the white version.

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ggf31416 wrote:
I think all the yellow CSLMN1 variant has the same specs as the white variant in paper. The white version output peaks at 4.5A-5.0A according to a test and 5.75A according to another.

I can’t find any test for the yellow variant, do you have one? The datasheet only shows data for up to 3A as for the white version.

Ok, now I reveal the “super secret”.

I have the Noctigon K1 fitted with the specific variant, CSLMN1.FY, and my K1 has even less output at 5A, than around 3A. So you can trust me.

Also, you should look for CSLMN1 specifications for other tints, and you will need to compare If (forward current) vs. lumen output graph carefully for each of them, and then, you will see, that for the Yellow and the True Green variant, output starts to flat out much sooner, than for other variants. Also, those graphs are probably for a close-to-perfect soldering work, which will usually not happen. So, for less-than-ideal situations, that output will flat out even sooner – this is why we need to examine each kind of emitters (or at least make use of the graphs as well in the specification, no just the basic stats), and choose safe driving current accordingly.

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Hank stated to me the K1 drivers are not being tweaked per LED type (at least the white W1 is the same as the green W1), so this is not surprising. Each of these color specific W1's have their own output curve with a different peak current, and Hanks and Simon are not properly configuring their drivers accordingly. Of course the other variant is the quality of the LED reflow, also assuming it's on a known good 3030 MCPCB of course.

At least with the K1 you can swap a resistor to control the amp output - maybe can do the same with Simon's driver.

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Emitter technical name is CSLNM1, not CSLMN1 fellows.

Concerning driving current, as you approach peak output the gains with the increase in current get smaller and smaller, until they dissapear or even turn into losses. Thus, with all the above variables given it is wise to settle for a 75 or 80% of the peak output driving current, that way above 90% of the peak output is still attained and emitter stress reduces considerably.

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Tom E wrote:

Hank stated to me the K1 drivers are not being tweaked per LED type (at least the white W1 is the same as the green W1), so this is not surprising. Each of these color specific W1’s have their own output curve with a different peak current, and Hanks and Simon are not properly configuring their drivers accordingly. Of course the other variant is the quality of the LED reflow, also assuming it’s on a known good 3030 MCPCB of course.


At least with the K1 you can swap a resistor to control the amp output – maybe can do the same with Simon’s driver.

I would expect that it may not be financially viable to tweak the driver for each of these emitter variations.
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Barkuti wrote:

Emitter technical name is CSLNM1, not CSLMN1 fellows.


Concerning driving current, as you approach peak output the gains with the increase in current get smaller and smaller, until they dissapear or even turn into losses. Thus, with all the above variables given it is wise to settle for a 75 or 80% of the peak output driving current, that way above 90% of the peak output is still attained and emitter stress reduces considerably.

Oops, technically my typo dragged the responding folks as well.

Yes, for this reason, I always prefer to keep a safe margin from the peak output.

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Simon says..... "Submit your order, then close the payment page. I will adjust the amount"

 

How do you submit the order without paying?  I tried yesterday and aliexpress  won't let me submit unless a payment is received.

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Try coupon MWYZ965PO6R0, saw it on https://m.facebook.com/ConvoyLights

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Flashlights & edc gear

K40M F16

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klrman wrote:

Simon says….. “Submit your order, then close the payment page. I will adjust the amount”


 


How do you submit the order without paying?  I tried yesterday and aliexpress  won’t let me submit unless a payment is received.

I guess it may depend on the type of payment you are using . Once I tried using virtual credit card and couldn’t do it, so I needed to use PayPal to place the order.

Once you add the payment method click on “place order” but don’t advance for payment, and abandon that “screen”. After Simon adjusts the value, you can go back to the order placed and choose another payment method (as I didn’t want to use PP, I added a virtual card for single use) or the same.

Hope this helps Thumbs Up

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Simon,

In your store the cslnm1 comes bare or on mcpcb, what diameters are available for the mcpcb? I need to measure mine but just seeing if you have options.

Also, can you sell board mcpcb only for the CULPM1? 4040 footprint that is. Thank you!

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Artiet59 wrote:
Simon,

In your store the cslnm1 comes bare or on mcpcb, what diameters are available for the mcpcb? I need to measure mine but just seeing if you have options.

Also, can you sell board mcpcb only for the CULPM1? 4040 footprint that is. Thank you!

Bare LEDs and LEDs on MCPCB and bare MCPCB are all listed.

Options are typically 16 and 20mm and you can almost always sand them down to get inbetween or smaller sizes.

If you had no choice you could even put a 3030 or 4040 LED on most 3535 MCPCB’s but they dont center well and may not have the best thermal path.

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klrman wrote:

Simon says..... "Submit your order, then close the payment page. I will adjust the amount"

 

How do you submit the order without paying?  I tried yesterday and aliexpress  won't let me submit unless a payment is received.

Dear Simon,

This is what a user of AliExpress outside of China can choose right now as payment methods:

 

 

AliExpress removed the other payment methods from their international website sometime ago. As far as I am aware the only option is to use an old version of the AliExpress application, 8.4.0 or earlier to be more precise (you can download it in Uptodown.com, for example). Warning: the app checks for updates on startup, and records the amount of times it has moaned about updating; it eventually refuses to work without updating if you allow it to keep checking, so it is best to disconnect from the internet just before opening the app, and reconnect to internet once the app is about 10s launched (to dismiss the app update check).

With an old version of the application (8.4.0 and earlier) it is possible to select “other payment methods”.

Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.

Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.

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Barkuti wrote:

klrman wrote:

Simon says..... "Submit your order, then close the payment page. I will adjust the amount"

 

How do you submit the order without paying?  I tried yesterday and aliexpress  won't let me submit unless a payment is received.

Dear Simon,

This is what a user of AliExpress outside of China can choose right now as payment methods:

 

 

AliExpress removed the other payment methods from their international website sometime ago. As far as I am aware the only option is to use an old version of the AliExpress application, 8.4.0 or earlier to be more precise (you can download it in Uptodown.com, for example). Warning: the app checks for updates on startup, and records the amount of times it has moaned about updating; it eventually refuses to work without updating if you allow it to keep checking, so it is best to disconnect from the internet just before opening the app, and reconnect to internet once the app is about 10s launched (to dismiss the app update check).

With an old version of the application (8.4.0 and earlier) it is possible to select “other payment methods”.

 

Hard workaround to make an order work!  If you order many small items from Simon the shipping costs for each item get totaled and skyrocket even though they will all go in one small package.  I ended up for now ordering the same items elsewhere on aliexpress with free shipping until there is a way to work around this.  It shouldn't be so difficult just to order something.

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MascaratumB wrote:
klrman wrote:

Simon says..... "Submit your order, then close the payment page. I will adjust the amount"

 

How do you submit the order without paying?  I tried yesterday and aliexpress  won't let me submit unless a payment is received.

I guess it may depend on the type of payment you are using . Once I tried using virtual credit card and couldn't do it, so I needed to use PayPal to place the order. Once you add the payment method click on "place order" but don't advance for payment, and abandon that "screen". After Simon adjusts the value, you can go back to the order placed and choose another payment method (as I didn't want to use PP, I added a virtual card for single use) or the same. Hope this helps :THUMBS-UP:

 

Thanks MascaratumB!  I did try but it won't work and it doesn't let me use PP so I ordered elsewhere today for now.

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klrman wrote:
Thanks MascaratumB!  I did try but it won’t work and it doesn’t let me use PP so I ordered elsewhere today for now.

Sorry to know that it didn’t work Oops It is a sometimes weird site/app.
I normally use the app instead of the site, so I don’t know if there are differences.

I hope you manage to get it done in a next time and that you receive your stuff now Wink

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