【convoy】SFT40 LED on sale now

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Simon Mao
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Maverick1947 wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:
Bunbury wrote:
Hi Simon, can you recommend which solder to use when assembling a host? What type do you use in your flashlights? Leaded or lead free?

Tin wire brand “MECHANIC”

The key is the soldering iron,
T2 solder iron , The temperature can reach 400 degrees Celsius, and use use D24 soldering iron tip


Where can I find such soldering iron?? I bought a soldering station which supposedly reaches 480C. But anytime I try to change LEDs of any light, it takes me at least 10-15min of heating and poking just to melt the solder. The host sucks up all the heat instantly. It gets really frustrating sometimes.

search “T12 soldering station” on any shopping site

Agro
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Simon Mao wrote:
Agro wrote:
Simon, there are 2 good ways of charging 26800:
  • put it in a host that cones with a built-in charger
  • use a charger that has flexible wires and magnetic attachment like Folomov A1.

I prefer the first one,
I don’t want the buyer to spend more on the charger,


I see it like this:
  • If you convert a 26650 light that already has charger to 26800 – great, that’s the lowest cost option for the customer
  • If you convert a 26650 light that doesn’t have a charger – customer has to spend extra (unless they already have a suitable charger or are savvy enough to use wires with magnets combined with any charger). Overall – not as good as the option before. Also, no matter how you warn users about the cell being incompatible with most chargers, some users will miss the warning leading to a few negative surprises.
  • If you refuse to convert a 26650 light that doesn’t have a charger, the customer won’t have a choice to run that light with 26650. For a customer that might want to do this – that’s actually the worst option.

That’s from the customer point of view, naturally. I have no idea which option (and whether any of them) makes most sense for your business, just wanted to show you another view.

Artiet59
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Maverick1947 wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:
Bunbury wrote:
Hi Simon, can you recommend which solder to use when assembling a host? What type do you use in your flashlights? Leaded or lead free?

Tin wire brand “MECHANIC”

The key is the soldering iron,
T2 solder iron , The temperature can reach 400 degrees Celsius, and use use D24 soldering iron tip


Where can I find such soldering iron?? I bought a soldering station which supposedly reaches 480C. But anytime I try to change LEDs of any light, it takes me at least 10-15min of heating and poking just to melt the solder. The host sucks up all the heat instantly. It gets really frustrating sometimes.

Are you referring to heating the +/- leads ? If you are, I find it much more effective to “tin” the end of the soldering tip with my leaded solder, then holding it right on The soldered connection (usually its at a weird angle to get good contact of the flat part of the tip) while at the same time gently pulling on the wire with my need nose tweezers. Hope this helps. Pm if you have any questions.

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

Scallywag
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Maverick1947 wrote:
trakcon wrote:
Maverick1947 wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:
Bunbury wrote:
Hi Simon, can you recommend which solder to use when assembling a host? What type do you use in your flashlights? Leaded or lead free?

Tin wire brand “MECHANIC”

The key is the soldering iron,
T2 solder iron , The temperature can reach 400 degrees Celsius, and use use D24 soldering iron tip


Where can I find such soldering iron?? I bought a soldering station which supposedly reaches 480C. But anytime I try to change LEDs of any light, it takes me at least 10-15min of heating and poking just to melt the solder. The host sucks up all the heat instantly. It gets really frustrating sometimes.

Are you using flux?


Yes. I realize that 80% of my problem is really me. Something I’m doing wrong. But yes. I use flux, always cleaning the tip to remove old solder and oxidation.

Make sure you’re using something (I often use a toothpick) to separate the MCPCB from the host. If you are indeed heating the entire host as you say, it’s going to be a bad time. I usually prop up the MCPCB so one edge is still resting on the host and the far edge is leaning on the toothpick, leaving the MCPCB sitting diagonally in the cavity. Then I remove the LED +/- wires.

texas shooter
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Agro wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:
Agro wrote:
Simon, there are 2 good ways of charging 26800:
  • put it in a host that cones with a built-in charger
  • use a charger that has flexible wires and magnetic attachment like Folomov A1.

I prefer the first one,
I don’t want the buyer to spend more on the charger,


I see it like this:
  • If you convert a 26650 light that already has charger to 26800 – great, that’s the lowest cost option for the customer
  • If you convert a 26650 light that doesn’t have a charger – customer has to spend extra (unless they already have a suitable charger or are savvy enough to use wires with magnets combined with any charger). Overall – not as good as the option before. Also, no matter how you warn users about the cell being incompatible with most chargers, some users will miss the warning leading to a few negative surprises.
  • If you refuse to convert a 26650 light that doesn’t have a charger, the customer won’t have a choice to run that light with 26650. For a customer that might want to do this – that’s actually the worst option.

That’s from the customer point of view, naturally. I have no idea which option (and whether any of them) makes most sense for your business, just wanted to show you another view.

Argo, that first option you list then makes that light a recharger for the other lights that don’t have a build in charger. This would be one of my options as I have the M3-C along with the M3 and L2. Second option is my current one with 2 Olight universal magnetic chargers. I need the extra run time after the Texas ice storm many items used up their charge without stable back up. 26800 gives me 25% more runtime. I tail stood a few lights to illuminate our powerless station and my home.

Maverick1947
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Simon Mao wrote:
Maverick1947 wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:
Bunbury wrote:
Hi Simon, can you recommend which solder to use when assembling a host? What type do you use in your flashlights? Leaded or lead free?

Tin wire brand “MECHANIC”

The key is the soldering iron,
T2 solder iron , The temperature can reach 400 degrees Celsius, and use use D24 soldering iron tip


Where can I find such soldering iron?? I bought a soldering station which supposedly reaches 480C. But anytime I try to change LEDs of any light, it takes me at least 10-15min of heating and poking just to melt the solder. The host sucks up all the heat instantly. It gets really frustrating sometimes.

search “T12 soldering station” on any shopping site


Thank you Simon!

There’s no replacement for displacement.

Maverick1947
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Scallywag wrote:
Maverick1947 wrote:
trakcon wrote:
Maverick1947 wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:
Bunbury wrote:
Hi Simon, can you recommend which solder to use when assembling a host? What type do you use in your flashlights? Leaded or lead free?

Tin wire brand “MECHANIC”

The key is the soldering iron,
T2 solder iron , The temperature can reach 400 degrees Celsius, and use use D24 soldering iron tip


Where can I find such soldering iron?? I bought a soldering station which supposedly reaches 480C. But anytime I try to change LEDs of any light, it takes me at least 10-15min of heating and poking just to melt the solder. The host sucks up all the heat instantly. It gets really frustrating sometimes.

Are you using flux?


Yes. I realize that 80% of my problem is really me. Something I’m doing wrong. But yes. I use flux, always cleaning the tip to remove old solder and oxidation.

Make sure you’re using something (I often use a toothpick) to separate the MCPCB from the host. If you are indeed heating the entire host as you say, it’s going to be a bad time. I usually prop up the MCPCB so one edge is still resting on the host and the far edge is leaning on the toothpick, leaving the MCPCB sitting diagonally in the cavity. Then I remove the LED +/- wires.


That’s actually a good idea! I’ll try it next time!

There’s no replacement for displacement.

Maverick1947
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Artiet59 wrote:
Maverick1947 wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:
Bunbury wrote:
Hi Simon, can you recommend which solder to use when assembling a host? What type do you use in your flashlights? Leaded or lead free?

Tin wire brand “MECHANIC”

The key is the soldering iron,
T2 solder iron , The temperature can reach 400 degrees Celsius, and use use D24 soldering iron tip


Where can I find such soldering iron?? I bought a soldering station which supposedly reaches 480C. But anytime I try to change LEDs of any light, it takes me at least 10-15min of heating and poking just to melt the solder. The host sucks up all the heat instantly. It gets really frustrating sometimes.

Are you referring to heating the +/- leads ? If you are, I find it much more effective to “tin” the end of the soldering tip with my leaded solder, then holding it right on The soldered connection (usually its at a weird angle to get good contact of the flat part of the tip) while at the same time gently pulling on the wire with my need nose tweezers. Hope this helps. Pm if you have any questions.

Thank you!

There’s no replacement for displacement.

Lightbringer
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texas shooter wrote:
Argo, that first option you list then makes that light a recharger for the other lights that don’t have a build in charger. This would be one of my options as I have the M3-C along with the M3 and L2. Second option is my current one with 2 Olight universal magnetic chargers. I need the extra run time after the Texas ice storm many items used up their charge without stable back up. 26800 gives me 25% more runtime. I tail stood a few lights to illuminate our powerless station and my home.

Thank B’harni (pbuh!) I had a coupla those Zanflare lanterns when I had a 1-day blackout around Christmas. Had nice WW light when I stuck it (magnetic base) to the doorbell frame. Could’ve used some Q8s for ceiling-bounce if it came down to it. Even the cats had light right over their litterbox downstairs from my Wuben E-whatever with the mag-tail and diffuser, stuck to the pull-chain-thingy right above.

But just for a regular handy-dandy utility light, something like an L2 or L6 would make a great base for taking a 26800. All it needs is a little extra lebensraum for the cell inside the battery tube to stick an ’800 instead of a ’650.

So either longer but still beefy springs, or an insert (like the “FT-to-BT converter disc”, only thicker) if using a ’650 to make up the difference, would allow both ’650s and ’800s to be used.

Or maybe cheaper, long/short springs, press-fit into the tail for a sideswitch-only light (contact-only tail, no switch).

 

I had and still have an assload of 10AH to 25AH powerbanks in case anything need recharging. Made sure my phones were topped off when the blackout hit.

And I just got last month or so a dinky little solar-panel to help things along if needed. Direct power and usb out if needed.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

Simon Mao
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Agro wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:
Agro wrote:
Simon, there are 2 good ways of charging 26800:
  • put it in a host that cones with a built-in charger
  • use a charger that has flexible wires and magnetic attachment like Folomov A1.

I prefer the first one,
I don’t want the buyer to spend more on the charger,


I see it like this:
  • If you convert a 26650 light that already has charger to 26800 – great, that’s the lowest cost option for the customer
  • If you convert a 26650 light that doesn’t have a charger – customer has to spend extra (unless they already have a suitable charger or are savvy enough to use wires with magnets combined with any charger). Overall – not as good as the option before. Also, no matter how you warn users about the cell being incompatible with most chargers, some users will miss the warning leading to a few negative surprises.
  • If you refuse to convert a 26650 light that doesn’t have a charger, the customer won’t have a choice to run that light with 26650. For a customer that might want to do this – that’s actually the worst option.

That’s from the customer point of view, naturally. I have no idea which option (and whether any of them) makes most sense for your business, just wanted to show you another view.

At present, when I am designing a new flashlight, I have given priority to adding a charging port for the flashlight, so I only need to produce the corresponding battery adapter tube.

adam7027
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Simon Mao wrote:
This is my problem, I will re-check with the supplier.

adam7027 wrote:
Hello Simon,

Can I ask for an option for ordering Convoy L21A with the B4-40E tint choice of XHP35 HI on the product page? (B4-40E is currently available as a separately purchased LED, but I would like to purchase L21A already assembled with B4-40E)

Also, I would like to ask that choice for the other two flashlights (M21C, M21B).

Hello Simon,

I would still ask for the B4-40E. If it is already available as bare/16mm star/20mm star purchase in the LEDs section of your aliexpress store, I can not see, why you can not offer it as a tint option for the mentioned flashlights.

I acknowledge, that there may be a price difference between the 4000K 70CRI XHP35 HI emitter and the B4-40E XHP35 HI emitter (which I am ready to pay), but I don’t need more 4000K 70CRI, this is why I would like to ask for the B4-40E to be installed already in those flashlights.

I would like to thank you very much if you can make this possible for me.

FlashPilot
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Simon Mao wrote:

At present, when I am designing a new flashlight, I have given priority to adding a charging port for the flashlight, so I only need to produce the corresponding battery adapter tube.

Hello Simon,

That sounds great! Also at present, one of your largest competitors is ignoring its customer requests about making 26800 adapter tubes for its flashlights. I will buy MANY more Convoy flashlights from you after they have 26800 adaptability and charging port.

Also please remember to make an adapter for your L6 lights to accommodate 2 × 26800 cells.

Thank you so much for listening to us. Its always a pleasure doing business with you. Thumbs Up

jasontheguitarist
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The M3-C and M4U seem like perfect candidates for a 26800 tube, as they already have charging built in. Although a 26650 has plenty of capacity as it is.

contactcr
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FlashPilot wrote:

Hello Simon,

That sounds great! Also at present, one of your largest competitors is ignoring its customer requests about making 26800 adapter tubes for its flashlights. I will buy MANY more Convoy flashlights from you after they have 26800 adaptability and charging port.

Also please remember to make an adapter for your L6 lights to accommodate 2 × 26800 cells.

Thank you so much for listening to us. Its always a pleasure doing business with you. Thumbs Up

Utterly roasts Chinese mystery Vapcell batteries but presses for battery tubes to support a format only made by mystery Chinese manufacturers. Question

FlashPilot
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contactcr wrote:
FlashPilot wrote:

Hello Simon,

That sounds great! Also at present, one of your largest competitors is ignoring its customer requests about making 26800 adapter tubes for its flashlights. I will buy MANY more Convoy flashlights from you after they have 26800 adaptability and charging port.

Also please remember to make an adapter for your L6 lights to accommodate 2 × 26800 cells.

Thank you so much for listening to us. Its always a pleasure doing business with you. Thumbs Up

Utterly roasts Chinese mystery Vapcell batteries but presses for battery tubes to support a format only made by mystery Chinese manufacturers. Question

What the heck??? Why are you posting here and not over at the appropriate vapcell thread? Indeed, vapcell is a conglomeration of several questionable rebadged cells with ZERO customer support after selling large quantities of failed cells to the masses. They have a growing history of doing this and should be the last place anyone should shop for cells… sans the desperate shills/fan boys.

And since you didn’t ask and decided to assume, there is no mystery as to where most of us acquire 26800 cells and why they are fast becoming so popular. They are a quality product with great consistency from Queen Battery. Search and read the many flawless reviews for the QB26800 and you will learn why they are a consistently great performing, high capacity cell in high demand. Also priced appropriately.

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FlashPilot wrote:
contactcr wrote:
FlashPilot wrote:

Hello Simon,

That sounds great! Also at present, one of your largest competitors is ignoring its customer requests about making 26800 adapter tubes for its flashlights. I will buy MANY more Convoy flashlights from you after they have 26800 adaptability and charging port.

Also please remember to make an adapter for your L6 lights to accommodate 2 × 26800 cells.

Thank you so much for listening to us. Its always a pleasure doing business with you. Thumbs Up

Utterly roasts Chinese mystery Vapcell batteries but presses for battery tubes to support a format only made by mystery Chinese manufacturers. Question

What the heck??? Why are you posting here and not over at the appropriate vapcell thread? Indeed, vapcell is a conglomeration of several questionable rebadged cells with ZERO customer support after selling large quantities of failed cells to the masses. They have a growing history of doing this and should be the last place anyone should shop for cells… sans the desperate shills/fan boys.

And since you didn’t ask and decided to assume, there is no mystery as to where most of us acquire 26800 cells and why they are fast becoming so popular. They are a quality product with great consistency from Queen Battery. Search and read the many flawless reviews for the QB26800 and you will learn why they are a consistently great performing, high capacity cell in high demand. Also priced appropriately.

Well said, rewrappers like Vapcell are not at all equivalent with Chinese OEM li-ion manufacturers – many of the latter having fantastic products and QC.

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Which 26650s are recommended for the L6 GT-FC40? Is there is min/max length?

contactcr
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Vapcell doesn’t make batteries so they come from OEMs too and for all we know they might be QB seconds.. if 26800 is a good battery that’s awesome but feels weird to trash Chinese OEMs in one breath and ask for battery tubes for a singular battery made by a Chinese OEM in the very next.

FWIW I have mixed reviews about Vapcell myself I don’t care about them.

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adam7027 wrote:
Hello Simon,

I would still ask for the B4-40E. If it is already available as bare/16mm star/20mm star purchase in the LEDs section of your aliexpress store, I can not see, why you can not offer it as a tint option for the mentioned flashlights.

I acknowledge, that there may be a price difference between the 4000K 70CRI XHP35 HI emitter and the B4-40E XHP35 HI emitter (which I am ready to pay), but I don’t need more 4000K 70CRI, this is why I would like to ask for the B4-40E to be installed already in those flashlights.

I would like to thank you very much if you can make this possible for me.

I’ve purchased a few of these as bare emitters from Simon’s store. They are not high CRI.

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6800mAh 26800 is equal in density to 5500mAh 26650 or ~2650mAh 18650, Chinese manufacturers make millions of the latter, it’s not a surprise they are consistent, they are just regular Li-Ion.

Simon Mao
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adam7027 wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:
This is my problem, I will re-check with the supplier.

adam7027 wrote:
Hello Simon,

Can I ask for an option for ordering Convoy L21A with the B4-40E tint choice of XHP35 HI on the product page? (B4-40E is currently available as a separately purchased LED, but I would like to purchase L21A already assembled with B4-40E)

Also, I would like to ask that choice for the other two flashlights (M21C, M21B).

Hello Simon,

I would still ask for the B4-40E. If it is already available as bare/16mm star/20mm star purchase in the LEDs section of your aliexpress store, I can not see, why you can not offer it as a tint option for the mentioned flashlights.

I acknowledge, that there may be a price difference between the 4000K 70CRI XHP35 HI emitter and the B4-40E XHP35 HI emitter (which I am ready to pay), but I don’t need more 4000K 70CRI, this is why I would like to ask for the B4-40E to be installed already in those flashlights.

I would like to thank you very much if you can make this possible for me.

In fact, the prices of the two are the same. High color rendering LEDs are not necessarily more expensive than ordinary color rendering.

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stephenk wrote:
Which 26650s are recommended for the L6 GT-FC40? Is there is min/max length?

68-70mm with top head

max input 8amps.

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Simon Mao wrote:
Sari33 wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:

Taking into account the cost and supply issues, the manufacturer does not plan to use higher-precision chips, and the 0.1% brightness mode will be removed.


Oh no, I whished for 0.1%mode on T2 but also 0.2~0.5% should be fine
Simon for your others FW Drivers can you consider to put 3 more groups?
0.1% 1% 10% 45% 100%.
0.1% 1% 10% 35% 70%
1% 5% 20% 50% 100%.
It will give more flexibility based on the type of driver used and limit the maximum power for extend runtime.

Switching from 50% brightness mode to 100% brightness mode, the naked eye cannot perceive this brightness change.
So I don’t think this ratio is reasonable.
My suggestion is that the ratio of the previous mode of 100% mode should not exceed 40% at most.


maybe I’m more sensitive but I notice the difference in light.
Limit the current at ~ 70% allows you to maintain maximum level for longer and less heat produced.
For the New T2 driver I wish to have 0.2~ 0.5% mode.
Also,you consider to add button top options for yours others drivers instead spring?
adam7027
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Sari33 wrote:
maybe I’m more sensitive but I notice the difference in light. Limit the current at ~ 70% allows you to maintain maximum level for longer and less heat produced. For the New T2 driver I wish to have 0.2~ 0.5% mode. Also,you consider to add button top options for yours others drivers instead spring?

Close mode groupings would make much sense because when one wants just sufficient amount of light for a situation can be better adjusted to have the ideal battery runtime.

It would be even meaningful to include a few mode groups with more than 5 levels, like these:
1% 2.5% 6% 12.5% 25% 50% 100%
2.5% 4% 6.4% 10% 16% 25% 40% 64% 100% (this could be a very good bike light driver mode group, and could be a good upgrade to the older 7-mode bike driver with 10-20-30-40-60-80-100% modes)

I can notice the difference well between a level and 1.6 times a level (like the 40% to 64% and the 64% to 100% change mentioned above)

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adam7027 wrote:

1% 2.5% 6% 12.5% 25% 50% 100%

2.5% 4% 6.4% 10% 16% 25% 40% 64% 100%

I second this if there is enough space in the driver, the original modes were chosen for 3A and keeping firmware size below 1024 bytes, now there are drivers with 5, 6 and 8A, it makes sense to have more levels to cover a larger range.

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Sari33 wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:
Sari33 wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:

Taking into account the cost and supply issues, the manufacturer does not plan to use higher-precision chips, and the 0.1% brightness mode will be removed.


Oh no, I whished for 0.1%mode on T2 but also 0.2~0.5% should be fine
Simon for your others FW Drivers can you consider to put 3 more groups?
0.1% 1% 10% 45% 100%.
0.1% 1% 10% 35% 70%
1% 5% 20% 50% 100%.
It will give more flexibility based on the type of driver used and limit the maximum power for extend runtime.

Switching from 50% brightness mode to 100% brightness mode, the naked eye cannot perceive this brightness change.
So I don’t think this ratio is reasonable.
My suggestion is that the ratio of the previous mode of 100% mode should not exceed 40% at most.


maybe I’m more sensitive but I notice the difference in light.
Limit the current at ~ 70% allows you to maintain maximum level for longer and less heat produced.
For the New T2 driver I wish to have 0.2~ 0.5% mode.
Also,you consider to add button top options for yours others drivers instead spring?

0.2~0.5% mode is achievable, but due to the significant price increase of global chips, I cannot purchase high-precision chips. I can make samples, but I cannot mass produce them.

Simon Mao
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adam7027 wrote:
Sari33 wrote:
maybe I’m more sensitive but I notice the difference in light. Limit the current at ~ 70% allows you to maintain maximum level for longer and less heat produced. For the New T2 driver I wish to have 0.2~ 0.5% mode. Also,you consider to add button top options for yours others drivers instead spring?

Close mode groupings would make much sense because when one wants just sufficient amount of light for a situation can be better adjusted to have the ideal battery runtime.

It would be even meaningful to include a few mode groups with more than 5 levels, like these:
1% 2.5% 6% 12.5% 25% 50% 100%
2.5% 4% 6.4% 10% 16% 25% 40% 64% 100% (this could be a very good bike light driver mode group, and could be a good upgrade to the older 7-mode bike driver with 10-20-30-40-60-80-100% modes)

I can notice the difference well between a level and 1.6 times a level (like the 40% to 64% and the 64% to 100% change mentioned above)

if that so ,i think i should make stepless mode directly

id30209
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Simon,

is new M12C FC40 12group driver only available? 

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

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Posts: 334
Location: South Carolina

Crumpled reflector? That doesn’t sound good at all. I assume that’s supposed to be orange peel.

Does this emitter actually produce a good beam with a smooth reflector? I thought the big multi die emitters needed an OP reflector to make the beam look decent. Or is that just the Cree emitters?

stephenk
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Last seen: 16 min 47 sec ago
Joined: 01/30/2016 - 05:09
Posts: 1578
Location: Australia

The M21C FC40 looks awesome. How many lumens would be expected in 100% and 35% modes?

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