The DUV is super high, which means this emitter will look very green . Hopefully Simon can source some hi cri emitters with low DUV like SST-20 with FA1, FA4, FD1, FD4 tint bins or Oslon Squares with below the BBL tints.
yes, i understand,in short , i should order redish LED
The DUV is super high, which means this emitter will look very green . Hopefully Simon can source some hi cri emitters with low DUV like SST-20 with FA1, FA4, FD1, FD4 tint bins or Oslon Squares with below the BBL tints.
yes, i understand,in short , i should order redish LED
Probably, most people will be happy with emitters spot on black body line (duv +0.001 to -0.001). I think, reddishness (or rather rosiness) to duv -0.003 is acceptable (and helpful with recognizing blue and red details), below that I consider it a bit of special use.
In practice, while SST-20 LEDs are promised to be on black body line with tints FA2, FA3, FD2, FD3, they are a bit more yellowish, when used on lower currents. This is why SKV89 recommended to source the tints above (FA1, FA4…), because they can hit the black body line better (especially, when not just bare led is measured, but optics as well).
In practice, I found the FB4 tint of SST-20 very appealing for outside use, if it is driven around 2A, because the tint changes, so it is noticeably rosier, than if multiple same LEDs were driven at a much lower current each.
It is very difficult to source Nichia 219C with proper duv values, and this is more visible for emitters in the 2700K-4000K CCT range. But for me, even a slightly greenish (duv up to +0.003) 219C is fine, if they are in the 5000K-5700K CCT range.
To cover the ‘cool white’ range of CCTs with high CRI emitters, do you consider to get Samsung LH351D emitters (they have 90 CRI for both 5000K and 6000K CCT)?
Those emitters are a bit less throwy, than 219C, but overall, they have somewhat more output (also, it is safe to drive them far past 4A with good heatsinking) – and maybe a bit less green.
LH351D in 5000k with 90CRI is very nice – popped some in a Wowtac A2S and an Olight S Mini. Unsure about the lumen drop from the original emitters, but the A2S on turbo can still spit out a lot of light.
LH351D in 5000k with 90CRI is very nice – popped some in a Wowtac A2S and an Olight S Mini. Unsure about the lumen drop from the original emitters, but the A2S on turbo can still spit out a lot of light.
I use them in a lot of lights.
Emisar D4, Astrolux S43, Lumintop GT mini. Convoy S2+, Olight S10R, Convoy M1
With a fet driver it made 1550 lumens.
LH351D in 5000k with 90CRI is very nice – popped some in a Wowtac A2S and an Olight S Mini. Unsure about the lumen drop from the original emitters, but the A2S on turbo can still spit out a lot of light.
I use them in a lot of lights.
Emisar D4, Astrolux S43, Lumintop GT mini. Convoy S2+, Olight S10R, Convoy M1
With a fet driver it made 1550 lumens.
Ooft! Nice. I’ve still got two spare (and one 16mm board that I have to flow), so I should probably do something nice with it.
I personally like very low duv for warm white emitters after tons of comparisons. For example, I have a Tiara Pro with 4x E21A consisting of 2×2000k and 2×3000k for a 2500k mixed cct and a 4x E21A consisting of 1×2000k and 3×3000k for a 2750k mixed tint. However, the 2750k looks much warmer than the 2500k and everyone I asked thinks the same. The reason is because the 2500k has a very negative duv (rosy tint), whereas the 2750k is less rosy. I think the very negative duv allows our eyes to adapt to the tint much easier so whites appear whiter on the 2500k whereas on the 2750k, whites appear more yellowish tinted. But even the 2750k is probably at least -.003 duv since it is rosier than all of my SST-20 3000k. I’m guessing the 2500k is about -0.006 duv. The tint on the 2500k is absolutely gorgeous and pleasing to look at and use for ambient lighting.
I personally like very low duv for warm white emitters after tons of comparisons. For example, I have a Tiara Pro with 4x E21A consisting of 2×2000k and 2×3000k for a 2500k mixed cct and a 4x E21A consisting of 1×2000k and 3×3000k for a 2750k mixed tint. However, the 2750k looks much warmer than the 2500k and everyone I asked thinks the same. The reason is because the 2500k has a very negative duv (rosy tint), whereas the 2750k is less rosy. I think the very negative duv allows our eyes to adapt to the tint much easier so whites appear whiter on the 2500k whereas on the 2750k, whites appear more yellowish tinted. But even the 2750k is probably at least -.003 duv since it is rosier than all of my SST-20 3000k. I’m guessing the 2500k is about -0.006 duv. The tint on the 2500k is absolutely gorgeous and pleasing to look at and use for ambient lighting.
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3 // I get way more privmsgs than I can respond to, so please ask in a public thread if possible, for a faster answer.
To be clear, I’m not saying Convoy should use direct-drive FET drivers. They’re probably a bit overpowered for most of Simon’s customers. But a “moonlight special” 7+1 driver would be nice. Or something with similar capabilities.
To be clear, I’m not saying Convoy should use direct-drive FET drivers. They’re probably a bit overpowered for most of Simon’s customers. But a “moonlight special” 7+1 driver would be nice. Or something with similar capabilities.
Although high efficiency buck/boost driver would be ideal, I really like this idea of a Convoy headlamp with 7+1 moonlight special for a budget headlamp. Add in Anduril and this could sell like hotcakes.
To be clear, I’m not saying Convoy should use direct-drive FET drivers. They’re probably a bit overpowered for most of Simon’s customers. But a “moonlight special” 7+1 driver would be nice. Or something with similar capabilities.
Although high efficiency buck/boost driver would be ideal, I really like this idea of a Convoy headlamp with 7+1 moonlight special for a budget headlamp. Add in Anduril and this could sell like hotcakes.
I agree – a highly efficient driver (and LED that is efficient for its output/tint) would be ideal but I also really like this idea of a Convoy headlamp with 7+1 moonlight special for a budget headlamp. Add in Anduril and this could sell like hotcakes.
This is why SKV89 recommended to source the tints above (FA1, FA4…), because they can hit the black body line better (especially, when not just bare led is measured, but optics as well).
He actually recommended bins way below the BBL.
This gives a huge advantage because the tint will stay below the BBL, thus being pretty, at all levels, even on the low modes. Recently I’ve organised a group buy for a very-high-cri custom headlamp for some of my friend’s, not real flashoholics or tint snobs, more regular users. Four of them got the 4000K CRI9080+ version, the tint lands on the BBL at on the 300-700lm modes and becomes subtly rosy at 1200lm, so theoretically it should be perfect. Guess what, no one of likes it. They say a 300K warmer (and positive duv) light made the custom look green at any level, and so did the slightly rosy XPL-HI 5D of the D4. It also was noticeably green at the lower modes. And eg. I use my light 80% of the time on the low or medium levels.
adam7027 wrote:
In practice, I found the FB4 tint of SST-20 very appealing for outside use
Positive duv can be quit yellow at 3000-4000K CCT’s which makes the green colours look more intensive, while negative duv does not and can make wood look rosy which doesn’t look really natural.
adam7027 wrote:
But for me, even a slightly greenish (duv up to +0.003) 219C
The 219C at 5000K has a duv of about +0.003 and it’s horribly lime green, not natural at all.
SKV89 wrote:
I think the very negative duv allows our eyes to adapt to the tint much easier so whites appear whiter (…)
I made the same observations. A rosy tint does make white look whiter than a positive duv equivalent at the same CCT.
—
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 ; Sofrin C01R 660nm, Mf01 Mini Nichia 219B sw35+sw40
It’s super hard to get these ultra rosy tints at 1A.
Not only are they less bright(no problem at all for me), but absolutely no distributor, or most manufacturers make them unless on a large custom order(5000pcs), and that is without being able to choose flux bin at all.
It’s super hard to get these ultra rosy tints at 1A.
THIS. It’s a unicorn, it basically doesn’t exist. There is a vocal minority being too particular about this. If people were so repulsed by slightly above BBL lights no one would have any flashlights at all. I probably have 20-30 lights with various emitters and only a few are below BBL at high current even. I want my lights to be near BBL like everyone else but we need to be realistic.
I personally like very low duv for warm white emitters after tons of comparisons. For example, I have a Tiara Pro with 4x E21A consisting of 2×2000k and 2×3000k for a 2500k mixed cct and a 4x E21A consisting of 1×2000k and 3×3000k for a 2750k mixed tint. However, the 2750k looks much warmer than the 2500k and everyone I asked thinks the same. The reason is because the 2500k has a very negative duv (rosy tint), whereas the 2750k is less rosy. I think the very negative duv allows our eyes to adapt to the tint much easier so whites appear whiter on the 2500k whereas on the 2750k, whites appear more yellowish tinted. But even the 2750k is probably at least -.003 duv since it is rosier than all of my SST-20 3000k. I’m guessing the 2500k is about -0.006 duv. The tint on the 2500k is absolutely gorgeous and pleasing to look at and use for ambient lighting.
Yes, 2700K and under that, it is another thing
Actually even at higher temps, below duv makes a big difference, just not as much as with warmer tints. For example, I have a huge collection of Cree 5A/5D tint flashlights and they are either below or far below the BBL with duv probably -0.005. If you compare the 4000k 5A/5D tint with a 4500k Cree 4B/4C (above the bbl) tint, they look about the same temperature but whites look whiter with the negative duv 4000k than the positive duv 4500k and much more pleasing tint to boot.
curious, has a group buy ever been done with/thru Simon? Seems like he cares a great deal about end users needs and wants, and knows FLASHLIGHTS. I think the interest in a Convoy H1 headlamp with special emitters and those great UIs would be off the chart.
curious, has a group buy ever been done with/thru Simon? Seems like he cares a great deal about end users needs and wants, and knows FLASHLIGHTS. I think the interest in a Convoy H1 headlamp with special emitters and those great UIs would be off the chart.
GB will sell H1 soon ,and there’s a good price i think
2.sorry ,the lens is not suitable,i will launch another lens version
Do you already know what optics you would like to use? It would be great if it was compatible with Yajiamei optics.
For example with this: Frosted Yajiamei optics
—
kiriba-ru S2+ and S21a spacers are available in EU. PM me. A few details here
%2Fforum.fonarevka.ru%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D31892
If you can build something very similar only for like 30$ or just get right driver %2Fforum.fonarevka.ru%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D37158 I“ll will buy it ;))
Did I get it right?
the first link talks about a headlamp with Hi CRI XHP50+ Carclo 10140
the second link is a H02 and H03 with a custom driver?
Quote:
1 kk – on, the mode in which will be enabled is configurable.
2 kk – go to turbo, repeated combination 2 kk – go to previous mode.
3 kk – the inclusion of gates. Enumeration of gates retention modes. Redialing 3 kk will return the driver to the previous mode.
4 kk – blocking – 1 mode (the beacon is off). Unlock 4kk.
5 kk – blocking – 2 mode (beacon mode is determined by its settings). Unlock 4kk.
1 dk – inclusion in the minimum mode.
Hold – brute force starting from the firefly, and going through the second and subsequent laps only in the main modes. Turbo mode is not involved in the search.
1kk and holding – marking the battery with the main diode.
2.sorry ,the lens is not suitable,i will launch another lens version
Do you already know what optics you would like to use? It would be great if it was compatible with Yajiamei optics.
For example with this: Frosted Yajiamei optics
Um. I don’t decide which one yet. It is easy to buy them in China. I will select the appropriate one.
You can buy the headlamp strap for $1-$2 sometimes they call it “headband”.
yes, i understand,in short , i should order redish LED
Thank you !!!
I’m so happy to read this that i’m going to cry.
Probably, most people will be happy with emitters spot on black body line (duv +0.001 to -0.001). I think, reddishness (or rather rosiness) to duv -0.003 is acceptable (and helpful with recognizing blue and red details), below that I consider it a bit of special use.
In practice, while SST-20 LEDs are promised to be on black body line with tints FA2, FA3, FD2, FD3, they are a bit more yellowish, when used on lower currents. This is why SKV89 recommended to source the tints above (FA1, FA4…), because they can hit the black body line better (especially, when not just bare led is measured, but optics as well).
In practice, I found the FB4 tint of SST-20 very appealing for outside use, if it is driven around 2A, because the tint changes, so it is noticeably rosier, than if multiple same LEDs were driven at a much lower current each.
It is very difficult to source Nichia 219C with proper duv values, and this is more visible for emitters in the 2700K-4000K CCT range. But for me, even a slightly greenish (duv up to +0.003) 219C is fine, if they are in the 5000K-5700K CCT range.
To cover the ‘cool white’ range of CCTs with high CRI emitters, do you consider to get Samsung LH351D emitters (they have 90 CRI for both 5000K and 6000K CCT)?
Those emitters are a bit less throwy, than 219C, but overall, they have somewhat more output (also, it is safe to drive them far past 4A with good heatsinking) – and maybe a bit less green.
LH351D in 5000k with 90CRI is very nice – popped some in a Wowtac A2S and an Olight S Mini. Unsure about the lumen drop from the original emitters, but the A2S on turbo can still spit out a lot of light.
List of my reviews over at 1lumen.com
~~~~~~~~~
oweban.org
I use them in a lot of lights.
Emisar D4, Astrolux S43, Lumintop GT mini. Convoy S2+, Olight S10R, Convoy M1
With a fet driver it made 1550 lumens.
Reviews: Olight Seeker2 pro, Lumintop GlowI, Sofirn SP36, Convoy 4X18A, Convoy M21C, Brinyte SR8 Rescue Angel, Astrolux MF01 mini, Astrolux FT03S, YLP Sherp S15, Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Imalent MS18 dedoming, Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Zozzlights
Ooft! Nice. I’ve still got two spare (and one 16mm board that I have to flow), so I should probably do something nice with it.
List of my reviews over at 1lumen.com
~~~~~~~~~
oweban.org
I personally like very low duv for warm white emitters after tons of comparisons. For example, I have a Tiara Pro with 4x E21A consisting of 2×2000k and 2×3000k for a 2500k mixed cct and a 4x E21A consisting of 1×2000k and 3×3000k for a 2750k mixed tint. However, the 2750k looks much warmer than the 2500k and everyone I asked thinks the same. The reason is because the 2500k has a very negative duv (rosy tint), whereas the 2750k is less rosy. I think the very negative duv allows our eyes to adapt to the tint much easier so whites appear whiter on the 2500k whereas on the 2750k, whites appear more yellowish tinted. But even the 2750k is probably at least -.003 duv since it is rosier than all of my SST-20 3000k. I’m guessing the 2500k is about -0.006 duv. The tint on the 2500k is absolutely gorgeous and pleasing to look at and use for ambient lighting.
Yes, 2700K and under that, it is another thing
To be clear, I’m not saying Convoy should use direct-drive FET drivers. They’re probably a bit overpowered for most of Simon’s customers. But a “moonlight special” 7+1 driver would be nice. Or something with similar capabilities.
The Convoy H1 with 1.400mA would be just fine for the XP-E2 photo red (660nm), so a nice alternative to Zebralight’s H502pr.
Although high efficiency buck/boost driver would be ideal, I really like this idea of a Convoy headlamp with 7+1 moonlight special for a budget headlamp. Add in Anduril and this could sell like hotcakes.
I agree – a highly efficient driver (and LED that is efficient for its output/tint) would be ideal but I also really like this idea of a Convoy headlamp with 7+1 moonlight special for a budget headlamp. Add in Anduril and this could sell like hotcakes.
He actually recommended bins way below the BBL.
This gives a huge advantage because the tint will stay below the BBL, thus being pretty, at all levels, even on the low modes. Recently I’ve organised a group buy for a very-high-cri custom headlamp for some of my friend’s, not real flashoholics or tint snobs, more regular users. Four of them got the 4000K CRI9080+ version, the tint lands on the BBL at on the 300-700lm modes and becomes subtly rosy at 1200lm, so theoretically it should be perfect. Guess what, no one of likes it. They say a 300K warmer (and positive duv) light made the custom look green at any level, and so did the slightly rosy XPL-HI 5D of the D4. It also was noticeably green at the lower modes. And eg. I use my light 80% of the time on the low or medium levels.
Positive duv can be quit yellow at 3000-4000K CCT’s which makes the green colours look more intensive, while negative duv does not and can make wood look rosy which doesn’t look really natural.
The 219C at 5000K has a duv of about +0.003 and it’s horribly lime green, not natural at all.
I made the same observations. A rosy tint does make white look whiter than a positive duv equivalent at the same CCT.
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 ; Sofrin C01R 660nm, Mf01 Mini Nichia 219B sw35+sw40
It’s super hard to get these ultra rosy tints at 1A.
Not only are they less bright(no problem at all for me), but absolutely no distributor, or most manufacturers make them unless on a large custom order(5000pcs), and that is without being able to choose flux bin at all.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
THIS. It’s a unicorn, it basically doesn’t exist. There is a vocal minority being too particular about this. If people were so repulsed by slightly above BBL lights no one would have any flashlights at all. I probably have 20-30 lights with various emitters and only a few are below BBL at high current even. I want my lights to be near BBL like everyone else but we need to be realistic.
Actually even at higher temps, below duv makes a big difference, just not as much as with warmer tints. For example, I have a huge collection of Cree 5A/5D tint flashlights and they are either below or far below the BBL with duv probably -0.005. If you compare the 4000k 5A/5D tint with a 4500k Cree 4B/4C (above the bbl) tint, they look about the same temperature but whites look whiter with the negative duv 4000k than the positive duv 4500k and much more pleasing tint to boot.
curious, has a group buy ever been done with/thru Simon? Seems like he cares a great deal about end users needs and wants, and knows FLASHLIGHTS. I think the interest in a Convoy H1 headlamp with special emitters and those great UIs would be off the chart.
Yeah.
No group buy needed though.
We just need an SST-20 4000k H1, and my perfect headlamp will be right in front of me.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
Headlamp sounds great. Once the firmware is changed to the new UI and we get good neutral, maybe high cri, I’ll pick up a few.
GB will sell H1 soon ,and there’s a good price i think
Thanks Simon!
List of my reviews over at 1lumen.com
~~~~~~~~~
oweban.org
Do you already know what optics you would like to use? It would be great if it was compatible with Yajiamei optics.
For example with this:
Frosted Yajiamei optics
kiriba-ru S2+ and S21a spacers are available in EU. PM me. A few details here
This is PERFECT EDC flashlight of 21 century: https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=lt&sl=ru&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2F... If you can build something very similar only for like 30$ or just get right driver :https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=lt&sl=ru&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2F... I“ll will buy it ;))
Did I get it right?
the first link talks about a headlamp with Hi CRI XHP50+ Carclo 10140the second link is a H02 and H03 with a custom driver?
I’m assuming “kk” is tap, and “dk” is hold…
List of my reviews over at 1lumen.com
~~~~~~~~~
oweban.org
I see everything rhymes with AK
cheeky breeki
List of my reviews over at 1lumen.com
~~~~~~~~~
oweban.org
I like the frosted lens idea! Will it be available to buy on your aliexpress shop?
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