【convoy】219B R9080 TEST

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elendur
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Thank you Simon!

Pip
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When will the SFT40 LEDs be available to order again? Went to order 6 but there is no add to cart button.

Neb_77
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Barkuti wrote:

Tungsten can be a nice metal for some special series. Features good thermal and electrical conductivity, and can be “colored with a blowtorch”. This means it would be easy to make each and every unit customized and unique:


 



 


It’s very dense, and so the flashlights would qualify well as tiny anchors. Big Smile 


As materia prima it is inexpensive. Innocent 

I like that idea. I would like to see / buy that.

MoreLumens
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Neb_77 wrote:
Barkuti wrote:

Tungsten can be a nice metal for some special series. Features good thermal and electrical conductivity, and can be “colored with a blowtorch”. This means it would be easy to make each and every unit customized and unique:


 



 


It’s very dense, and so the flashlights would qualify well as tiny anchors. Big Smile 


As materia prima it is inexpensive. Innocent 

I like that idea. I would like to see / buy that.

Almost heavy as gold. If copper S2+ weights about 175g, tungsten one would be like 300-350g (maybe?) which is heavier than MF01 Mini with cell in it 250g or so. Let’s be serious. LOL

1stein
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Simon Mao wrote:
1stein wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:
ferrat_val wrote:
Simon, I missed previous copper S2+ editions, so I wonder are there any plans for another run this year?

The cost of copper has risen sharply this year.

How about Ti then? Ever considered?

The thermal conductivity of titanium alloy is relatively low.


It’s a trade off. You sacrifice thermal conductivity but gain durability and light weight.
The C8+ Ti would be the hot rod of its times, for me.
Neb_77
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MoreLumens wrote:
Neb_77 wrote:
Barkuti wrote:

Tungsten can be a nice metal for some special series. Features good thermal and electrical conductivity, and can be “colored with a blowtorch”. This means it would be easy to make each and every unit customized and unique:


 



 


It’s very dense, and so the flashlights would qualify well as tiny anchors. Big Smile 


As materia prima it is inexpensive. Innocent 

I like that idea. I would like to see / buy that.

Almost heavy as gold. If copper S2+ weights about 175g, tungsten one would be like 300-350g (maybe?) which is heavier than MF01 Mini with cell in it 250g or so. Let’s be serious. LOL

I admit it would be a tank. Probably not something you would carry in the jeans pocket. Maybe the T3 in tungsten.

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I understand some of you like the titanium idea, but its thermal conductivity kind of sucks. Its price right now is also two to three times that of copper according to this Metal India source. No further comments.

 

Back with the tungsten thing, I see some of you complain about the weight but in practice I hardly see that as an inconvenience. Really. One of the main problems concerning what we carry in our pockets nowadays is more about size (can be a @#$% to crouch or jump with a hulk of a smartphone in your pocket) than weight, at least in my lightful opinion. But of course this is another story.

Tungsten can be given colour by quenching or tempering it. I'm no expert in this, although you can take a look at this video where the guy gives a small tungsten weight a dark violet color, for example:

 

 

In a factory, though, finished flashlight hulls could be inserted in furnaces, heated to specific temperatures between 1000 to 2000°C or around (1832 to 2864°F) Innocent and then quenched somehow in or with oil or water. Depending on the heating temperature of each run and how the quenching is done (sprayed water, etc.), the tonality or color-scheme of the hulls should vary. This could really be an appealing thing if properly done.

Some commercial tungsten alloys here at Mi-Tech; the number has to do with their approximate density in g/cm³.

The human mind, and its programming, is at the forefront of a particular battle of The Light vs evil dark forces. Nearly every human being on this beautiful planet “Earth” has some sort of negative mind programming in its mind. And you better take care of your mind programming, or someone else will in this wicked world.

Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.

I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your spirit or soul. Innocent 

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elendur
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So it seems like Simon had finally run out of sft40… the one in my cart disappeared today and all models are gone.

texas shooter
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Simon have you looked at the SFN55.2. It’s a 3 volt up to 30 amp LED, claims around 7000 lumens. Looks like a good one for you L7 light.

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Poor Simon…..he can’t even get 10 models released and sold before he needs to build twenty more new models! Smile

He’s got to be the busiest flashlight manufacturer of the whole bunch – and good-natured about it to boot.

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Hello, anybody have beamshots of the M21e xhp70.2 ?, I’m torn between this and the M21c-u Smile

..you'll see perpetual change..

icpart
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icpart wrote:

I also received today my M21E 4000K version, but there is strange yellow artifacts and dot at spot. When I removed reflector and I tried to view LED beam against white wall I can’t see that yellowish “thing”. I don’t know is that normal for XHP70.2 diode at all. Because that is my first XHP70.2 light I can’t compare it to another one.
!{width:60%}https://i.ibb.co/1MvmRB7/P1230130.jpg!

Little up of my question. Simon or anyone can you tell me is that normal for XHP70.2 to have some yellow marks on spot. I don’t have any another XHP70.2 to compare of it. It is very odd and don’t know is the LED whether defective or reflector is not very good for that diode.
LAMPUSAKU wrote:
Hello, anybody have beamshots of the M21e xhp70.2 ?, I’m torn between this and the M21c-u Smile

See my picture and it is very ugly. Also I can try to swap my FC40 in M21C and try to compare of it. I bought XHP70.2 12V to try it with FC40 driver.
Haukkeli
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icpart wrote:
icpart wrote:

I also received today my M21E 4000K version, but there is strange yellow artifacts and dot at spot. When I removed reflector and I tried to view LED beam against white wall I can’t see that yellowish “thing”. I don’t know is that normal for XHP70.2 diode at all. Because that is my first XHP70.2 light I can’t compare it to another one.
!{width:60%}https://i.ibb.co/1MvmRB7/P1230130.jpg!

Little up of my question. Simon or anyone can you tell me is that normal for XHP70.2 to have some yellow marks on spot. I don’t have any another XHP70.2 to compare of it. It is very odd and don’t know is the LED whether defective or reflector is not very good for that diode.
LAMPUSAKU wrote:
Hello, anybody have beamshots of the M21e xhp70.2 ?, I’m torn between this and the M21c-u Smile

See my picture and it is very ugly. Also I can try to swap my FC40 in M21C and try to compare of it. I bought XHP70.2 12V to try it with FC40 driver.

I think those artifacts might be from the middle section of the four emitters inside one XHP70.2 dome. It isn’t that bad than in the original XHP70 because voids between emitters are filled with phosphor, but it isn’t perfect either.
icpart
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Haukkeli wrote:
I think those artifacts might be from the middle section of the four emitters inside one XHP70.2 dome. It isn't that bad than in the original XHP70 because voids between emitters are filled with phosphor, but it isn't perfect either.
Thanks for perfect answer Thumbs Up . FC40 have perfect spot in my M21C and M21B. This is my favourite high power 7070 LED so far.   
EasyB
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icpart wrote:

Haukkeli wrote:
I think those artifacts might be from the middle section of the four emitters inside one XHP70.2 dome. It isn’t that bad than in the original XHP70 because voids between emitters are filled with phosphor, but it isn’t perfect either.
Thanks for perfect answer Thumbs Up . FC40 have perfect spot in my M21C and M21B. This is my favourite high power 7070 LED so far.   

That is correct. In the first gen XHP70 the beam center is dark. In the XHP70.2 the phosphor covers the gaps between the die so the beam center is yellow.

LAMPUSAKU
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[quote=
See my picture and it is very ugly. Also I can try to swap my FC40 in M21C and try to compare of it. I bought XHP70.2…[/quote]

Thank you icpart, i mean side by side beamshot with some range, bout the yellowish spot i also experience it with my s11 xhp50.2, no problem in real use. There is xhp70.3 HI come to existence i believe..

..you'll see perpetual change..

stephenk
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icpart wrote:
icpart wrote:

I also received today my M21E 4000K version, but there is strange yellow artifacts and dot at spot. When I removed reflector and I tried to view LED beam against white wall I can’t see that yellowish “thing”. I don’t know is that normal for XHP70.2 diode at all. Because that is my first XHP70.2 light I can’t compare it to another one.
!{width:60%}https://i.ibb.co/1MvmRB7/P1230130.jpg!

Little up of my question. Simon or anyone can you tell me is that normal for XHP70.2 to have some yellow marks on spot. I don’t have any another XHP70.2 to compare of it. It is very odd and don’t know is the LED whether defective or reflector is not very good for that diode.
LAMPUSAKU wrote:
Hello, anybody have beamshots of the M21e xhp70.2 ?, I’m torn between this and the M21c-u Smile

See my picture and it is very ugly. Also I can try to swap my FC40 in M21C and try to compare of it. I bought XHP70.2 12V to try it with FC40 driver.

There is always beam artifact in quad die emitters when used for very close up use. However in the real world, quad die emitters tend to be used for more long range use where the artifact is not visible.
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Does anyone know if the new T3 works with FT or BT?

My 219c T2 from Sept last year seems to be BT only

icpart
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LAMPUSAKU wrote:

Thank you icpart, i mean side by side beamshot with some range, bout the yellowish spot i also experience it with my s11 xhp50.2, no problem in real use. There is xhp70.3 HI come to existence i believe..

Thanks of all of your answers guys Innocent I will try to make some beamshots but I don’t know to which flashlight to compare M21E. Any idea about that. Most of my lights are with OP reflectors if this have any sense. I have M21C not U varaint. But mine is with FC40 not XHP70.2 and OP reflector. But from two of them I can coclude that M21C is more thrower compared to M21E. It have good central spot. M21E have very good stable output at 40% and flashligt body is only little warm. Also M21E can be used in tactical mode. I tried to use my tailcap from M21C on M21E and its work. If you choose any output with M21E when you turn off light with tail switch and turn it on again M21E will work similar to Convoy L6 driver. Seems that flashlights share similar firmwares. Also yesterday i tried little lego with M21B and M21E battery tube. I used M21E tube on M21B head and tailcap. Mine M21E is raw Al color and M21B look very cool with M21E body. If Simon make M21B with knurling from M21E it will be awesome.
LAMPUSAKU
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icpart wrote:
Thanks of all of your answers guys Innocent I will try to make some beamshots..

Thanks icpart,Looking forward to the beamshots,i wonder if different diameter of led opening (a friend says m21e have 9,xmm ref hole, maybe somebody can confirm) results in different beam angle.

And good to know that they’re lego each other..

..you'll see perpetual change..

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Neb_77 wrote:
MoreLumens wrote:
Neb_77 wrote:
Barkuti wrote:

Tungsten can be a nice metal for some special series. Features good thermal and electrical conductivity, and can be “colored with a blowtorch”. This means it would be easy to make each and every unit customized and unique:


 



 


It’s very dense, and so the flashlights would qualify well as tiny anchors. Big Smile 


As materia prima it is inexpensive. Innocent 

I like that idea. I would like to see / buy that.

Almost heavy as gold. If copper S2+ weights about 175g, tungsten one would be like 300-350g (maybe?) which is heavier than MF01 Mini with cell in it 250g or so. Let’s be serious. LOL

I admit it would be a tank. Probably not something you would carry in the jeans pocket. Maybe the T3 in tungsten.

If memory serves tungsten is a very hard metal and therefore quite difficult to machine. That’s not to say it’s impossible but there would be an added expense over just the cost of the materials.

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merlot wrote:
… If memory serves tungsten is a very hard metal and therefore quite difficult to machine. That's not to say it's impossible but there would be an added expense over just the cost of the materials.

Copper by itself is also @#$% to machine (I know this from experience too), and so they don't work with raw copper in machine shops. They chose some alloy with certain impurities of other metals, impurities which improve the machinability of the material.

In practice there would be no problem with tungsten too, the same would apply. It basically is about going for it or not.

The human mind, and its programming, is at the forefront of a particular battle of The Light vs evil dark forces. Nearly every human being on this beautiful planet “Earth” has some sort of negative mind programming in its mind. And you better take care of your mind programming, or someone else will in this wicked world.

Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.

I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your spirit or soul. Innocent 

Keanu Reeves may need your help. Join his Telegram channel here.

Sari33
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Sillen wrote:
Does anyone know if the new T3 works with FT or BT?

My 219c T2 from Sept last year seems to be BT only


Would know if new T3 12 group driver support 0.1% mode
and if is ready to buy alone.
The T3 price a bit expensive
jasontheguitarist
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Yeah I want a few of those new AA/14500 drivers too. I don’t think he ever posted what the 12 groups are on the new driver, since it wasn’t going to have the lowest mode.

Simon Mao
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texas shooter wrote:
Simon have you looked at the SFN55.2. It’s a 3 volt up to 30 amp LED, claims around 7000 lumens. Looks like a good one for you L7 light.

7000 lumens I’m not sure if this is lab data.
This LED model comes from a packaging factory in China.
For the packaging structure and chip performance, I need to get to know it better.

Simon Mao
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LAMPUSAKU wrote:
[quote= See my picture and it is very ugly. Also I can try to swap my FC40 in M21C and try to compare of it. I bought XHP70.2…

Thank you icpart, i mean side by side beamshot with some range, bout the yellowish spot i also experience it with my s11 xhp50.2, no problem in real use. There is xhp70.3 HI come to existence i believe..[/quote]

The white light emitted by a light-emitting diode, which is a mixture of blue light from the chip and yellow-green light from the phosphor.
When you look closely at the structure of the xhp70.2 package.You will notice that there is a lot of phosphor on the edge, and the yellow-green light does not mix well with the blue light.The yellow-green spot in the middle is also due to this reason.

Simon Mao
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Sillen wrote:
Does anyone know if the new T3 works with FT or BT?

My 219c T2 from Sept last year seems to be BT only

What’s ft and BT?

Simon Mao
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Sari33 wrote:
Sillen wrote:
Does anyone know if the new T3 works with FT or BT?

My 219c T2 from Sept last year seems to be BT only


Would know if new T3 12 group driver support 0.1% mode
and if is ready to buy alone.
The T3 price a bit expensive

13 groups, to be exact.It uses better chips and is more efficient.
4 modes driver has 75% efficiency max
However, the maximum efficiency of 13 groups was as high as 90%.

Option 1 (normal-flash 1 time + buzz-flash): tap the switch to enter into sub-option to select the mode group,If the user has no operation, the config mode will enter option 2.

——————-sub-option 1.1 (normal-flash 1 time) : tap the switch to select mode group 1 (1%、10%、30%、100%) ——————-sub-option 1.2 (normal-flash 2 times) : tap the switch to select mode group 2 (1% 10%、35%、100%、strobe、biking、batcheck) ——————-sub-option 1.3 (normal-flash 3 times) : tap the switch to select mode group 3 (1%, 10%, 35%, 100% ,this group is the same as the first group, in the next batch this group will be deleted) ——————-sub-option 1.4 (normal-flash 4 times) : tap the switch to select mode group 4 (100%、35%、10%、1%) ——————-sub-option 1.5 (normal-flash 5 times) : tap the switch to select mode group 5 (1%、20%、100%、strobe、biking、batcheck、sos) ——————-sub-option 1.6 (normal-flash 6 times) : tap the switch to select mode group 6 (1%、20%、100%) ——————-sub-option 1.7 (normal-flash 7 times) : tap the switch to select mode group 7 (100%、20%、1%) ——————-sub-option 1.8 (normal-flash 8 times) : tap the switch to select mode group 8(1%、10%、50%、strobe、biking、batcheck、sos) ——————-sub-option 1.9 (normal-flash 9 times) : tap the switch to select mode group 9 (1%、10%、50%) ——————-sub-option 1.10 (normal-flash 10 times) : tap the switch to select mode group 10 (50%、10%、1%) ——————-sub-option 1.11 (normal-flash 11 times) : tap the switch to select mode group 11 (20%、100%) ——————-sub-option 1.12 (normal-flash 12 times) : tap the switch to select mode group 12(100%、20%) ——————-sub-option 1.13 (normal-flash 12 times) : tap the switch to select mode group 13(100%) Option 2 (normal-flash 2 times + buzz-flash): tap the switch to active the mode memory or inactive it,If the user has no operation,flashlight will enter into the last mode.

battery-check instructions:

<2.95V 1 flash,

2.95-3.25V 2 flashes,

3.25-3.55V 3 flashes,

3.55-3.85V 4 flashes,

>3.85V 5 flashes

Notice that there is no battery-check function if flashlight is powered by the 1.5V battery

Simon Mao
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jasontheguitarist wrote:
Yeah I want a few of those new AA/14500 drivers too. I don’t think he ever posted what the 12 groups are on the new driver, since it wasn’t going to have the lowest mode.

13groups driver for T2/T3

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Simon Mao wrote:
Sillen wrote:
Does anyone know if the new T3 works with FT or BT?

My 219c T2 from Sept last year seems to be BT only

What’s ft and BT?

Ft= Flat top battery, Bt= Button top battery.

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