Simon, hope you did not order a large batch of the SST-20 FB4 tint bin. Once you get some Cree 5D tint emitters and compare it with the SST-20 FB4 tint bin, you will understand why the FB4 is not very good looking.
Until you shine on skin or wood etcetera…
That’s when CRI and R9 values come into play.
Simon, hope you did not order a large batch of the SST-20 FB4 tint bin. Once you get some Cree 5D tint emitters and compare it with the SST-20 FB4 tint bin, you will understand why the FB4 is not very good looking.
Dont worry ,friend,not everyone hates FB4,
and i will add FA1 or FA4 in my store ,i just supply one more choice for buyer
Simon, hope you did not order a large batch of the SST-20 FB4 tint bin. Once you get some Cree 5D tint emitters and compare it with the SST-20 FB4 tint bin, you will understand why the FB4 is not very good looking.
Dont worry ,friend,not everyone hates FB4,
and i will add FA1 or FA4 in my store ,i just supply one more choice for buyer
… I am worried that the copper surface is easily oxidized.
I see no problem with it, copper barely oxidizes at low temperatures. On the other hand, standard rosin flux comes in super handy to remove its oxidation while still hot when hot air soldering or reflowing, for example.
Cheers
Fri, 01/11/2019 - 08:34
—
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
Simon, hope you did not order a large batch of the SST-20 FB4 tint bin. Once you get some Cree 5D tint emitters and compare it with the SST-20 FB4 tint bin, you will understand why the FB4 is not very good looking.
Dont worry ,friend,not everyone hates FB4,
and i will add FA1 or FA4 in my store ,i just supply one more choice for buyer
Great to hear Simon, definitely interested in FA1 or FA4 when it becomes available.
I dunno what CRI the XPL HI 5D's are, but wow, the more I look at them and compare to other LED's if one LED to one LED lights or triple to triple, everything else is blahhh. I assume they are in the 70's for CRI - not sure if anyone tested them, but Richard at MtnE and Hank at IOS don't list the CRI for them. XPL-HI's still seem pricey though, where others now are like 1/2 the price.
Almost all the available Cree 5D tint are 70 CRI. I wish they had some 90 CRI version. The E21A 4000k and 219b 4000k 9080 looks similar to Cree 5D tint but with better color rendering and lower output. I suspect the SST20 FA1 tint bin will look about the same as Cree 5A or 5D tint.
Simon any chance you will consider making the pills out of copper instead of brass for better heat sinking and heat transfer?
I am worried that the copper surface is easily oxidized.
Why worry about oxidation when it is not visible? It will not affect thermal performance. I bought a light from Enogear that had a copper pill. It has amazing thermal performance.
In this flashlight the copper has only thermal purpose. But in an S2+ the pill transfers current from body to driver. So oxidation is not good for electrical contacts.
With such a huge contact area, I doubt any oxidation will affect current. I have been using copper triple emitter pills in the S2+ for so long and measured no change in output.
… Why worry about oxidation when it is not visible? It will not affect thermal performance. I bought a light from Enogear that had a copper pill. It has amazing thermal performance.
Tactical forward switch?
Oxidation is not a problem and is anyway easily solved.
The actual problem for Simon Mao is probably finding a reliable source at a fair price for copper machined parts. We need to admit this may come at a premium pricetag, but it is doable.
Copper is mine! Copper divine!
Cheers
—
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
I’m new to BLF, so I have some questions prior to ordering the S2+ SST20:
From reading posts, it looks like most everyone owns a S2 and if I’m correct its because Simon supports moding by making hosts, reflectors, drivers, etc available at Ali?
Can anyone explain the four color choices — 7135×3, 7153×4, 7135×6, 7135×8?
Is the head glued in finished S2+? I’d like to use this light to learn from, so I want to be able to easily open the head and look at how a driver is installed, etc.
How do I get the 15 percent discount, do I PM Simon here with my order number?
And, final question on a battery for this light, from reading other posts an unprotected NCR18650GA should work great for this light, thoughts?
Can anyone explain the four color choices — 7135×3, 7153×4, 7135×6, 7135×8?
Hi CMU_84!
Those are not “colour choices” but choices about the driver and the number of 7135 chips you can “have” on the driver. More chips mean more power, more output on top levels (100%), but also more more heat when using the flashlight for longer times.
CMU_84 wrote:
Is the head glued in finished S2+? I’d like to use this light to learn from, so I want to be able to easily open the head and look at how a driver is installed, etc.
The head is not glued. Depending on the number of 7135 chips you want in your flashlight’s driver, the driver may be soldered to the pill (6 or 8*7135) or it may be held with a retaining ring (4*7135). So, you can unscrew the pill and de-solder the driver or simply unscrew it to access the driver and start modding
CMU_84 wrote:
How do I get the 15 percent discount, do I PM Simon here with my order number?
In your order write a message to the seller saying you’re a BLF member (with username, maybe)!
CMU_84 wrote:
And, final question on a battery for this light, from reading other posts an unprotected NCR18650GA should work great for this light, thoughts?
Yes, but you also have others with high capacity, such as Samsung 35E, Sanyo NCR18650GA .
The head is not glued. Depending on the number of 7135 chips you want in your flashlight’s driver, the driver may be soldered to the pill (6 or 8*7135) or it may be held with a retaining ring (4*7135). So, you can unscrew the pill and de-solder the driver or simply unscrew it to access the driver and start modding
I would buy a new piil, driver, led and led plate for any modding I would do, but I would like to be able to open the pill that comes with the S2+, so that I could examine and learn. And, I would like to retain the shipped pill, so that I could use the light i.e. no de-soldering.
I know this may be a question for Simon, but replies are welcome from all members, what is the largest number of 7135 chips I could order on the driver and the driver is held by a retaining ring?
I do not think that a copper pill will do much over the current brass pill at the 3A max current that the S2+ comes with. And it is more expensive to produce. Providing a copper pill will mainly cater tbe BLF modders that overdrive the S2+.
I do not think that a copper pill will do much over the current brass pill at the 3A max current that the S2+ comes with. And it is more expensive to produce. Providing a copper pill will mainly cater tbe BLF modders that overdrive the S2+.
… Why worry about oxidation when it is not visible? It will not affect thermal performance. I bought a light from Enogear that had a copper pill. It has amazing thermal performance.
Tactical forward switch?
Oxidation is not a problem and is anyway easily solved.
The actual problem for Simon Mao is probably finding a reliable source at a fair price for copper machined parts. We need to admit this may come at a premium pricetag, but it is doable.
Copper is mine! Copper divine!
Cheers
i ask manufacturer to produce a new batch after Chinese Spring festival,i will try to use copper pill,
the knurning of S2+ will be removed ,the style of host will be changed,
I hope to reduce costs
I’m new to BLF, so I have some questions prior to ordering the S2+ SST20:
From reading posts, it looks like most everyone owns a S2 and if I’m correct its because Simon supports moding by making hosts, reflectors, drivers, etc available at Ali?
Can anyone explain the four color choices — 7135×3, 7153×4, 7135×6, 7135×8?
Is the head glued in finished S2+? I’d like to use this light to learn from, so I want to be able to easily open the head and look at how a driver is installed, etc.
How do I get the 15 percent discount, do I PM Simon here with my order number?
And, final question on a battery for this light, from reading other posts an unprotected NCR18650GA should work great for this light, thoughts?
Following are drivers instead of body color,
7135×3, 1050mA
7153×4, 1400mA
7135×6, 2100mA
7135×8 2800mA
The head is not glued,
About the discount. Don’t use the credit card ,submit your order and close the payment page. I will adjust the amount,
NCR18650GA is a great battery,
The head is not glued. Depending on the number of 7135 chips you want in your flashlight’s driver, the driver may be soldered to the pill (6 or 8*7135) or it may be held with a retaining ring (4*7135). So, you can unscrew the pill and de-solder the driver or simply unscrew it to access the driver and start modding
I would buy a new piil, driver, led and led plate for any modding I would do, but I would like to be able to open the pill that comes with the S2+, so that I could examine and learn. And, I would like to retain the shipped pill, so that I could use the light i.e. no de-soldering.
I know this may be a question for Simon, but replies are welcome from all members, what is the largest number of 7135 chips I could order on the driver and the driver is held by a retaining ring?
7135 *3 7135 *4 with retaining ring
7135*6 7135*8 no retaining ring
Thanks for offering the new emitter options. The S2+ was always a good budget light, but XM-L2s aren’t exactly pretty. I maintain a popular recommendation list and I was happy to be able to add the S2+/SST-20.
FA1/4 bins for the SST-20 would be most welcome. I’ve been using FB4 from Kaidomain, and the tint is OK, but could be improved. I can add to what others have said about the 219C as well: it’s fine at 2.8A. It’s fine much higher than that, actually and can take more current without failing than the SST-20 can. (7A is fatal to an SST-20.)
I’d really like to see an official listing for the C8+ with the SST-20 and 7135×8 driver. I know it’s possible to custom order it that way, but I want to add it to my list, and it’s much easier to provide a direct link than explain a custom ordering process.
—
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android
Thanks for offering the new emitter options. The S2+ was always a good budget light, but XM-L2s aren’t exactly pretty. I maintain a popular recommendation list and I was happy to be able to add the S2+/SST-20.
FA1/4 bins for the SST-20 would be most welcome. I’ve been using FB4 from Kaidomain, and the tint is OK, but could be improved. I can add to what others have said about the 219C as well: it’s fine at 2.8A. It’s fine much higher than that, actually and can take more current without failing than the SST-20 can. (7A is fatal to an SST-20.)
I’d really like to see an official listing for the C8+ with the SST-20 and 7135×8 driver. I know it’s possible to custom order it that way, but I want to add it to my list, and it’s much easier to provide a direct link than explain a custom ordering process.
This would be a great addition. Glad to see most of your newest lights come with Biscotti by default for the same reason.
Almost all the available Cree 5D tint are 70 CRI. I wish they had some 90 CRI version. The E21A 4000k and 219b 4000k 9080 looks similar to Cree 5D tint but with better color rendering and lower output. I suspect the SST20 FA1 tint bin will look about the same as Cree 5A or 5D tint.
Cree XP-L HI and XM-L2 5D tint should be available in 80 CRI as well, go and check the manufacturer documents
Until you shine on skin or wood etcetera…
That’s when CRI and R9 values come into play.
Dont worry ,friend,not everyone hates FB4,
and i will add FA1 or FA4 in my store ,i just supply one more choice for buyer
Simon any chance you will consider making the pills out of copper instead of brass for better heat sinking and heat transfer?
I am worried that the copper surface is easily oxidized.
I see no problem with it, copper barely oxidizes at low temperatures. On the other hand, standard rosin flux comes in super handy to remove its oxidation while still hot when hot air soldering or reflowing, for example.
Cheers
Fri, 01/11/2019 - 08:34
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
Great to hear Simon, definitely interested in FA1 or FA4 when it becomes available.
I dunno what CRI the XPL HI 5D's are, but wow, the more I look at them and compare to other LED's if one LED to one LED lights or triple to triple, everything else is blahhh. I assume they are in the 70's for CRI - not sure if anyone tested them, but Richard at MtnE and Hank at IOS don't list the CRI for them. XPL-HI's still seem pricey though, where others now are like 1/2 the price.
Almost all the available Cree 5D tint are 70 CRI. I wish they had some 90 CRI version. The E21A 4000k and 219b 4000k 9080 looks similar to Cree 5D tint but with better color rendering and lower output. I suspect the SST20 FA1 tint bin will look about the same as Cree 5A or 5D tint.
Why worry about oxidation when it is not visible? It will not affect thermal performance. I bought a light from Enogear that had a copper pill. It has amazing thermal performance.
In this flashlight the copper has only thermal purpose. But in an S2+ the pill transfers current from body to driver. So oxidation is not good for electrical contacts.
Reviews: Olight Seeker2 pro, Lumintop GlowI, Sofirn SP36, Convoy 4X18A, Convoy M21C, Brinyte SR8 Rescue Angel, Astrolux MF01 mini, Astrolux FT03S, YLP Sherp S15, Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Imalent MS18 dedoming, Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Zozzlights
With such a huge contact area, I doubt any oxidation will affect current. I have been using copper triple emitter pills in the S2+ for so long and measured no change in output.
Simple fix too:
Tactical
forward switch? 
Oxidation is not a problem and is anyway easily solved.
The actual problem for Simon Mao is probably finding a reliable source at a fair price for copper machined parts. We need to admit this may come at a premium pricetag, but it is doable.
Copper is mine! Copper divine!
Cheers
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
I’m new to BLF, so I have some questions prior to ordering the S2+ SST20:
From reading posts, it looks like most everyone owns a S2 and if I’m correct its because Simon supports moding by making hosts, reflectors, drivers, etc available at Ali?
Can anyone explain the four color choices — 7135×3, 7153×4, 7135×6, 7135×8?
Is the head glued in finished S2+? I’d like to use this light to learn from, so I want to be able to easily open the head and look at how a driver is installed, etc.
How do I get the 15 percent discount, do I PM Simon here with my order number?
And, final question on a battery for this light, from reading other posts an unprotected NCR18650GA should work great for this light, thoughts?
Hi CMU_84!
Those are not “colour choices” but choices about the driver and the number of 7135 chips you can “have” on the driver. More chips mean more power, more output on top levels (100%), but also more more heat when using the flashlight for longer times.
The head is not glued. Depending on the number of 7135 chips you want in your flashlight’s driver, the driver may be soldered to the pill (6 or 8*7135) or it may be held with a retaining ring (4*7135). So, you can unscrew the pill and de-solder the driver or simply unscrew it to access the driver and start modding
In your order write a message to the seller saying you’re a BLF member (with username, maybe)!
Yes, but you also have others with high capacity, such as Samsung 35E, Sanyo NCR18650GA .
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection ///
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
Hi MascaratumB,
Thank you for the kind reply to a noob
I would buy a new piil, driver, led and led plate for any modding I would do, but I would like to be able to open the pill that comes with the S2+, so that I could examine and learn. And, I would like to retain the shipped pill, so that I could use the light i.e. no de-soldering.
I know this may be a question for Simon, but replies are welcome from all members, what is the largest number of 7135 chips I could order on the driver and the driver is held by a retaining ring?
I do not think that a copper pill will do much over the current brass pill at the 3A max current that the S2+ comes with. And it is more expensive to produce. Providing a copper pill will mainly cater tbe BLF modders that overdrive the S2+.
link to djozz tests
It doesn’t really matter, it wil get hot anyway.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/52757
i ask manufacturer to produce a new batch after Chinese Spring festival,i will try to use copper pill,
the knurning of S2+ will be removed ,the style of host will be changed,
I hope to reduce costs
7135 *3 7135 *4 with retaining ring
7135*6 7135*8 no retaining ring
Why do you want to remove the knurling Simon? It’s beautiful as it it’s and the appearance of the S2+ has always been your trademark.
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm Photo Red ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 (for sale)
Please dont remove knurling. Its good for grip and adds surface area for heat dissipation.
I’m curious how s2+ would look without knurling. I want to see the renders.
Will it be offered in the clear ano version?
Thanks for offering the new emitter options. The S2+ was always a good budget light, but XM-L2s aren’t exactly pretty. I maintain a popular recommendation list and I was happy to be able to add the S2+/SST-20.
FA1/4 bins for the SST-20 would be most welcome. I’ve been using FB4 from Kaidomain, and the tint is OK, but could be improved. I can add to what others have said about the 219C as well: it’s fine at 2.8A. It’s fine much higher than that, actually and can take more current without failing than the SST-20 can. (7A is fatal to an SST-20.)
I’d really like to see an official listing for the C8+ with the SST-20 and 7135×8 driver. I know it’s possible to custom order it that way, but I want to add it to my list, and it’s much easier to provide a direct link than explain a custom ordering process.
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android
This would be a great addition. Glad to see most of your newest lights come with Biscotti by default for the same reason.
Find all my reviews of flashlights and more gear at www.bmengineer.com
Cree XP-L HI and XM-L2 5D tint should be available in 80 CRI as well, go and check the manufacturer documents
+1 for please do not remove the knurling. I love them this way.
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