For the OP reflector, if replacement of XM-L2 emitters is considered, I would like to recommend Samsung LH351D, because that is an emitter with larger light emitting surface, and while it does not have 95 CRI options, it still has 90 CRI options for almost all preferable CCTs (6000K as well!)
For throwier lights, LH351C and LH351B is smaller and cheaper (but also can be less powerful).
Simon, hope you did not order a large batch of the SST-20 FB4 tint bin. Once you get some Cree 5D tint emitters and compare it with the SST-20 FB4 tint bin, you will understand why the FB4 is not very good looking.
Dont worry ,friend,not everyone hates FB4,
and i will add FA1 or FA4 in my store ,i just supply one more choice for buyer
Personally, I would be fine with SST-20 (page 6) FA2 tint as well, as it is closer to the black body line, but still a little bit under it. Also, I would like to request a GD2 tint, as it could be a very nice mildly warm white – and a JD3 tint could be also interesting for people who seek very low blue light emission (even more eye friendly), but still high CRI.
Fireflies has been using FA2, and it still tests above the BBL. FA2 isn’t bad. Even FB4 isn’t bad, but to be reliably not green, it has to be FA1/FA4.
Interesting, I have a clear ano S2+ flashlight with a 1750mA (5×7135) driver, and I use the ‘kaidomain FB4’ SST-20 emitter. I get visibly more rosy tint with it than with a Fireflies ROT-66 FA2 on even turbo setting.
I just hope, they didn’t receive FB2 instead of FA2
Probably for SST-20, the tint is very much dependent on the driving current, and as it goes higher, it turns more rosy.
Maybe then it would worth to get FA1 tint. I would still like GD2 and JD3 very much
Almost all the available Cree 5D tint are 70 CRI. I wish they had some 90 CRI version. The E21A 4000k and 219b 4000k 9080 looks similar to Cree 5D tint but with better color rendering and lower output. I suspect the SST20 FA1 tint bin will look about the same as Cree 5A or 5D tint.
Cree XP-L HI and XM-L2 5D tint should be available in 80 CRI as well, go and check the manufacturer documents
Most of what is listed in the spec sheet are unfortunately unavailable for purchase in small quantities. There are very few Cree 5A 5D tint hi CRI emitters that can be bought by small consumers. I did buy a XHP70.2 5D 80CRI from Kaidomain and it has a nice rosy tint but such emitters are rare to come by.
Thanks for offering the new emitter options. The S2+ was always a good budget light, but XM-L2s aren’t exactly pretty. I maintain a popular recommendation list and I was happy to be able to add the S2+/SST-20.
FA1/4 bins for the SST-20 would be most welcome. I’ve been using FB4 from Kaidomain, and the tint is OK, but could be improved. I can add to what others have said about the 219C as well: it’s fine at 2.8A. It’s fine much higher than that, actually and can take more current without failing than the SST-20 can. (7A is fatal to an SST-20.)
I’d really like to see an official listing for the C8+ with the SST-20 and 7135×8 driver. I know it’s possible to custom order it that way, but I want to add it to my list, and it’s much easier to provide a direct link than explain a custom ordering process.
Thanks ,buddy, i will add 7135*8 option for C8+ and S2+ nicha 219C flashlights soon
If you have problems making enough profit it would be a better idea to slightly rise the price of your products or stop implementing rising cost improvements such as new copper pills etc. in favour of maintaining the current build quality and knurling.
See your lights are popular because they offer very high quality for a decent price, not because they offer low quality for a low price.
—
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm Photo Red ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 (for sale)
I personally would like to see project of S2+ with no knurling. There are various manufacturers that don’t use it (Zebralight, Armytek) and people are not complaining about low build quality or lack of grip on their products.
I’d much rather have copper pill than knurling if I could choose.
OK, this is going to be a post which will probably heat up some discussion…
Copper is overrated, brass or aluminium wil do just fine
Especially for a S2+, it doesn’t matter much, since the flashlight is just to small to dissipate the heat very well, so it will gain maybe a couple of seconds in heat transfer.
The power of Convoy is that the quality of your products is always good and the design doesn’t change suddenly, (like what happens with other Chinese sellers, to reduce cost and get a higher profit rate) so all available spare parts always fit. (as is not always the fact with other Chinese sellers)
So, to reduce the price, please only remove knurling and keep using the existing pill, which is good enough.
Please get rid of the 3/5 mode driver and ONLY use biscotti
Zebralight does use knurling on the SC600 handheld models, which are still way smaller then the S2+. Armytek doesn’t even know how to proper assemble their lights so adding knurling is probably too difficult. And objectively a plain tube without knurling will be more slippery in wet conditions then a knurled one, or when used with gloves.
—
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm Photo Red ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 (for sale)
Copper is overrated, brass or aluminium wil do just fine
Especially for a S2+, it doesn’t matter much, since the flashlight is just to small to dissipate the heat very well, so it will gain maybe a couple of seconds in heat transfer.
Have you done any testing to compare it? Do you have data to back this up? I timed my copper host S2+ compared to aluminum regular and high mode can be maintained at least twice as long without burning. Output also drops slower when measuring lumens with copper pills compared with brass pills when using triples.
I think I misrepresented what I meant.
First of all, I will not reduce the quality of the product. The current knurling is difficult to process, and one third of the products will be scrapped directly.
I don’t meant to make a smooth surface.
I just want to change a style, on the one hand, it will improve the product yield, on the other hand, keep the original feel of grip.
For example, I can change it to the following
I just want to change a style, on the one hand, it will improve the product yield, on the other hand, keep the original feel of grip.
For example, I can change it to the following
I think I misrepresented what I meant.
First of all, I will not reduce the quality of the product. The current knurling is difficult to process, and one third of the products will be scrapped directly.
I don’t meant to make a smooth surface.
I just want to change a style, on the one hand, it will improve the product yield, on the other hand, keep the original feel of grip.
For example, I can change it to the following
How about this kind of knurling?
Can it be done easy?
I really like this look.
—
“The saddest aspect of life right now is that science gathers knowledge faster than society gathers wisdom.” - Isaac Asimov
"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."
“The saddest aspect of life right now is that science gathers knowledge faster than society gathers wisdom.” - Isaac Asimov
"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."
For the OP reflector, if replacement of XM-L2 emitters is considered, I would like to recommend Samsung LH351D, because that is an emitter with larger light emitting surface, and while it does not have 95 CRI options, it still has 90 CRI options for almost all preferable CCTs (6000K as well!)
For throwier lights, LH351C and LH351B is smaller and cheaper (but also can be less powerful).
Personally, I would be fine with SST-20 (page 6) FA2 tint as well, as it is closer to the black body line, but still a little bit under it. Also, I would like to request a GD2 tint, as it could be a very nice mildly warm white – and a JD3 tint could be also interesting for people who seek very low blue light emission (even more eye friendly), but still high CRI.
Fireflies has been using FA2, and it still tests above the BBL. FA2 isn’t bad. Even FB4 isn’t bad, but to be reliably not green, it has to be FA1/FA4.
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android
Interesting, I have a clear ano S2+ flashlight with a 1750mA (5×7135) driver, and I use the ‘kaidomain FB4’ SST-20 emitter. I get visibly more rosy tint with it than with a Fireflies ROT-66 FA2 on even turbo setting.
I just hope, they didn’t receive FB2 instead of FA2
Probably for SST-20, the tint is very much dependent on the driving current, and as it goes higher, it turns more rosy.
Maybe then it would worth to get FA1 tint. I would still like GD2 and JD3 very much
@zak, Fireflies has been using the FA3 chromacity tint bin.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
Most of what is listed in the spec sheet are unfortunately unavailable for purchase in small quantities. There are very few Cree 5A 5D tint hi CRI emitters that can be bought by small consumers. I did buy a XHP70.2 5D 80CRI from Kaidomain and it has a nice rosy tint but such emitters are rare to come by.
Using chrome material to process knurling, the defect rate is very high. If I don’t process knurling, I may reduce the cost by 1/3.
removing knurling doesnt mean smooth surface , i will consider “grip” ,too
Thanks ,buddy, i will add 7135*8 option for C8+ and S2+ nicha 219C flashlights soon
If you have problems making enough profit it would be a better idea to slightly rise the price of your products or stop implementing rising cost improvements such as new copper pills etc. in favour of maintaining the current build quality and knurling.
See your lights are popular because they offer very high quality for a decent price, not because they offer low quality for a low price.
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm Photo Red ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 (for sale)
I personally would like to see project of S2+ with no knurling. There are various manufacturers that don’t use it (Zebralight, Armytek) and people are not complaining about low build quality or lack of grip on their products.
I’d much rather have copper pill than knurling if I could choose.
Will a cool white luminus LED be available for this someday? Or would that be an SST-40?
OK, this is going to be a post which will probably heat up some discussion…
Copper is overrated, brass or aluminium wil do just fine
Especially for a S2+, it doesn’t matter much, since the flashlight is just to small to dissipate the heat very well, so it will gain maybe a couple of seconds in heat transfer.
The power of Convoy is that the quality of your products is always good and the design doesn’t change suddenly, (like what happens with other Chinese sellers, to reduce cost and get a higher profit rate) so all available spare parts always fit. (as is not always the fact with other Chinese sellers)
So, to reduce the price, please only remove knurling and keep using the existing pill, which is good enough.
Please get rid of the 3/5 mode driver and ONLY use biscotti
A smooth S2+, i can live with that.
Zebralight does use knurling on the SC600 handheld models, which are still way smaller then the S2+. Armytek doesn’t even know how to proper assemble their lights so adding knurling is probably too difficult. And objectively a plain tube without knurling will be more slippery in wet conditions then a knurled one, or when used with gloves.
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm Photo Red ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 (for sale)
Have you done any testing to compare it? Do you have data to back this up? I timed my copper host S2+ compared to aluminum regular and high mode can be maintained at least twice as long without burning. Output also drops slower when measuring lumens with copper pills compared with brass pills when using triples.
yes ,i have SST40 LED in stock now ,but driver is not ready,yet
I think I misrepresented what I meant.
First of all, I will not reduce the quality of the product. The current knurling is difficult to process, and one third of the products will be scrapped directly.
I don’t meant to make a smooth surface.
I just want to change a style, on the one hand, it will improve the product yield, on the other hand, keep the original feel of grip.
For example, I can change it to the following
Thanks Simon, I’ll check back when driver is ready. Also the new rendition looks very nice!
Is the S2+ Nichia 219C in 5700K 95% CRI too? Or just the 4000K version?
No, the S2+ 219C is only in 90CRI.
Just the SST-20 is available in 95CRI.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
Nice! I like it.
Whoops. But that’s also for the 5700K option? And is 90CRI still considered HighCRI? I want to get a glimpse into the HighCRI goodness so many people seem to enjoy – would this be a good specimen?
219C 90CRI ,friend
i have 1000pcs XML2 T6-5A1 and 1000pcs XML2 T6-5D4 in stock now
and anyone interested in XHP35 4000K and 5000K ? i got 2pcs samples
i will upload a video to show the original packing intact goods
@SKV89
Looks good! I like it alot.
How about this kind of knurling?
Can it be done easy?
I really like this look.
“The saddest aspect of life right now is that science gathers knowledge faster than society gathers wisdom.” - Isaac Asimov
"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."
My reviews:
Sofirn SF36 /// Thorfire VG10S /// Sofirn C8F /// Zanflare F1
Reviews: Lumintop GlowI, Sofirn SP36, Convoy 4X18A, Convoy M21C, Brinyte SR8 Rescue Angel, Astrolux MF01 mini, Astrolux FT03S, YLP Sherp S15, Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Imalent MS18 dedoming, Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Zozzlights
Interested
Ok
“The saddest aspect of life right now is that science gathers knowledge faster than society gathers wisdom.” - Isaac Asimov
"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."
My reviews:
Sofirn SF36 /// Thorfire VG10S /// Sofirn C8F /// Zanflare F1
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