I think I misrepresented what I meant.
First of all, I will not reduce the quality of the product. The current knurling is difficult to process, and one third of the products will be scrapped directly.
I don’t meant to make a smooth surface.
I just want to change a style, on the one hand, it will improve the product yield, on the other hand, keep the original feel of grip.
For example, I can change it to the following
If your having to scrap one third of the products because of the knurling you should definitely remove it!!
Make it smooth if you want or add grip if you want. I find it hard to believe anyone needs knurling or any type ‘grip’ to hold a light this size securly anyway. . Does anyone need knurling or grip on a fork when they are feeding themselves?? I think not…….
As far as the ‘copper pill’…. as has been stated before it is not necessary or needed at the 3A max current this light is sold with. So why do it? It only adds unnecessary cost with no real benefit.
If someone wants to ‘hotrod’ the light, let them buy their own copper pills if they want them. Hoop, on this forum; sells them….. I bought some.
Or, if you want to sell a host with a copper pill option; be sure to charge the premium price for that ‘copper pill’ option.
I love your lights Simon, keep up the good work!! .
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
I think I misrepresented what I meant.
First of all, I will not reduce the quality of the product. The current knurling is difficult to process, and one third of the products will be scrapped directly.
I don’t meant to make a smooth surface.
I just want to change a style, on the one hand, it will improve the product yield, on the other hand, keep the original feel of grip.
For example, I can change it to the following
If your having to scrap one third of the products because of the knurling you should definitely remove it!!
Make it smooth if you want or add grip if you want. I find it hard to believe anyone needs knurling or any type ‘grip’ to hold a light this size securly anyway. . Does anyone need knurling or grip on a fork when they are feeding themselves?? I think not…….
As far as the ‘copper pill’…. as has been stated before it is not necessary or needed at the 3A max current this light is sold with. So why do it? It only adds unnecessary cost with no real benefit.
If someone wants to ‘hotrod’ the light, let them buy their own copper pills if they want them. Hoop, on this forum; sells them….. I bought some.
Or, if you want to sell a host with a copper pill option; be sure to charge the premium price for that ‘copper pill’ option.
I love your lights Simon, keep up the good work!! .
Simon, if I order 3x the S2+ to Europe, do I have to pay shipping 3x or can they be sent in the same parcel? And I just have to write you for the 15% after buying, before paying, right?
I think I misrepresented what I meant.
First of all, I will not reduce the quality of the product. The current knurling is difficult to process, and one third of the products will be scrapped directly.
I don’t meant to make a smooth surface.
I just want to change a style, on the one hand, it will improve the product yield, on the other hand, keep the original feel of grip.
For example, I can change it to the following
If your having to scrap one third of the products because of the knurling you should definitely remove it!!
Make it smooth if you want or add grip if you want. I find it hard to believe anyone needs knurling or any type ‘grip’ to hold a light this size securly anyway. . Does anyone need knurling or grip on a fork when they are feeding themselves?? I think not…….
As far as the ‘copper pill’…. as has been stated before it is not necessary or needed at the 3A max current this light is sold with. So why do it? It only adds unnecessary cost with no real benefit.
If someone wants to ‘hotrod’ the light, let them buy their own copper pills if they want them. Hoop, on this forum; sells them….. I bought some.
Or, if you want to sell a host with a copper pill option; be sure to charge the premium price for that ‘copper pill’ option.
I love your lights Simon, keep up the good work!! .
Simon, if I order 3x the S2+ to Europe, do I have to pay shipping 3x or can they be sent in the same parcel? And I just have to write you for the 15% after buying, before paying, right?
Cheers and thanks!
i charge only 1x shipping cost
submit your order,then close the payment page ,i will adjust the amount
I find it hard to believe anyone needs knurling or any type ‘grip’ to hold a light this size securly anyway.
Of course, someone with average dexterity, bare hands, and comfortable conditions shouldn’t have any trouble. Try it in wet, freezing weather, wearing gloves that aren’t keeping your fingers warm enough for good motor control or sensation. My Astrolux S43, to give an example doesn’t have enough grip. If it had chalky anodizing like Armytek uses, it would be OK, but it’s smooth.
I like the look of Simon’s proposed design though. I think it would provide good grip in difficult conditions, and it’s visually different from most other flashlights.
—
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android
That’s the question, are we talking about an EDC light for, well, most people, or are we talking about a high-grip light like for a wildcatter?
My L2s bug me with their chalky finish, but I know how “grippy” they are. If I were, as you mention, using the light in a cold wet slippery environment while wearing gloves, then it’s perfect. But for just chasing raccoons away from the catfood bowls, it’s unnecessary.
Now, if you’re Armytek and are catering to quasi-military usage, sure, give it hand-bitingly aggressive knurling, or a chalky HA3 finish, etc. But for most of us who’ve been slinging S2+es forever? Kinda overkill, no?
If your having to scrap one third of the products because of the knurling you should definitely remove it!!
Make it smooth if you want or add grip if you want. I find it hard to believe anyone needs knurling or any type ‘grip’ to hold a light this size securly anyway. . Does anyone need knurling or grip on a fork when they are feeding themselves?? I think not…….
As far as the ‘copper pill’…. as has been stated before it is not necessary or needed at the 3A max current this light is sold with. So why do it? It only adds unnecessary cost with no real benefit.
If someone wants to ‘hotrod’ the light, let them buy their own copper pills if they want them. Hoop, on this forum; sells them….. I bought some.
Or, if you want to sell a host with a copper pill option; be sure to charge the premium price for that ‘copper pill’ option.
I love your lights Simon, keep up the good work!! .
+1
I couldn’t agree more teacher !
.. I had overlooked YOURPOST on the page before this Yokiamy… It appears we are thinking alike. . +1 to what you said too. PS….. Your signature line threw me off for a minute….. until I realized it ‘was’ your signature line. . .
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
The new grip pattern Simon posted a picture of looks like my Convoy X3, and I’ve been very happy with it. Good grip, but still comfortable to hold bare-handed. I would be happy to see it become the standard for all Convoy lights.
I have just ordered a bunch of the 5D4 and 5A1 XML2 leds to replace older greenish XML2 leds. I can’t wait to get them!
About the future S2+ 21700 flashlight , I hope it will also be considered to have a single OP/SMO reflector like is now on the 18650 S2+, I somehow like normal reflectors more than TIR because there is less spray light.
I’m now replacing some 3/5 drivers with Biscotti drivers in a few S2+ lights, to get rid of the annoying squeal that some of the 7135×4 and even 7135×3 driver have. It would be nice if the Biscotti driver would have a setting with 10%, 30%, 50%, 100% and wouldn’t mind if it would be one of the first settings. It is rather difficult to select setting number 8 or 9 or 10, since counting the flashes gets difficult then.
Those rosy XML-2’s look very promising, are you going to offer them in some of your lights Simon?
Does anybody now if there will be a lumen gain over the XPL-HI, and of so, big?
—
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 ; Sofrin C01R 660nm, Mf01 Mini Nichia 219B sw35+sw40
Those rosy XML-2’s look very promising, are you going to offer them in some of your lights Simon?
Does anybody now if there will be a lumen gain over the XPL-HI, and of so, big?
… Why worry about oxidation when it is not visible? It will not affect thermal performance. I bought a light from Enogear that had a copper pill. It has amazing thermal performance.
Tactical forward switch?
Oxidation is not a problem and is anyway easily solved.
The actual problem for Simon Mao is probably finding a reliable source at a fair price for copper machined parts. We need to admit this may come at a premium pricetag, but it is doable.
Copper is mine! Copper divine!
Cheers
i ask manufacturer to produce a new batch after Chinese Spring festival,i will try to use copper pill,
the knurning of S2+ will be removed ,the style of host will be changed,
I hope to reduce costs
Very good quality coupled with low price has always been the S2+ strong point. Nice that you want to improve it further.
I guess it's designed for 26650...looking at Simon's webpage on AliExpress. I would also like the idea of a host version and the capability to run it with 21700 batteries. The S11 would be an interesting competitor to Sofirn's SP33 V2.0 with XHP50.2 and OP reflector.
It’s great to see new products from Convoy but I was hoping for something new in 21700 format, like a smaller single cell convoy L2 or a S2+ equivalent but with 21700 and brighter
How about this kind of knurling?
Can it be done easy?
I really like this look.
In my opinion, I don’t like this style.
+/
Knurling only on the tailcap, like on the emisar d4 or the fireflies pl47. EDIT : but the knew simon’s knurling looks good. Little diamonds or several widths of parallel grooves patterns are boring, even if it always looks nice when done well.
I too think that the S11 should be a 21700 flashlight, with the less than 7A that it draws there are no downsides switching to 21700 and only advantages.
Yeah, when the 21700 has most of the capacity of the 26650, and seems closer in size to the 18650 vs 26650, and has pretty good current ratings, as much as I like the 26650 I’d think the 21700 would be the better choice.
‘Though all my 26650s here are now probably plotting to kill me for saying so.
I’m also not a fan of the fluted style Zanflare uses, but the grooves you’re suggesting look good.
I like XHP35 lights, but I much prefer XHP35 HI. These are also available in high CRI bins. Which light are you thinking of using these emitters in?
Find all my reviews of flashlights and more gear at www.bmengineer.com
Make it smooth if you want or add grip if you want. I find it hard to believe anyone needs knurling or any type ‘grip’ to hold a light this size securly anyway.
. Does anyone need knurling or grip on a fork when they are feeding themselves?? I think not……. 
As far as the ‘copper pill’…. as has been stated before it is not necessary or needed at the 3A max current this light is sold with. So why do it? It only adds unnecessary cost with no real benefit.
If someone wants to ‘hotrod’ the light, let them buy their own copper pills if they want them. Hoop, on this forum; sells them….. I bought some.
Or, if you want to sell a host with a copper pill option; be sure to charge the premium price for that ‘copper pill’ option.
I love your lights Simon, keep up the good work!! .
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
+1
I couldn’t agree more teacher !
Simon, if I order 3x the S2+ to Europe, do I have to pay shipping 3x or can they be sent in the same parcel? And I just have to write you for the 15% after buying, before paying, right?
Cheers and thanks!
Thanks for your comments
i charge only 1x shipping cost
submit your order,then close the payment page ,i will adjust the amount
Of course, someone with average dexterity, bare hands, and comfortable conditions shouldn’t have any trouble. Try it in wet, freezing weather, wearing gloves that aren’t keeping your fingers warm enough for good motor control or sensation. My Astrolux S43, to give an example doesn’t have enough grip. If it had chalky anodizing like Armytek uses, it would be OK, but it’s smooth.
I like the look of Simon’s proposed design though. I think it would provide good grip in difficult conditions, and it’s visually different from most other flashlights.
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android
That’s the question, are we talking about an EDC light for, well, most people, or are we talking about a high-grip light like for a wildcatter?
My L2s bug me with their chalky finish, but I know how “grippy” they are. If I were, as you mention, using the light in a cold wet slippery environment while wearing gloves, then it’s perfect. But for just chasing raccoons away from the catfood bowls, it’s unnecessary.
Now, if you’re Armytek and are catering to quasi-military usage, sure, give it hand-bitingly aggressive knurling, or a chalky HA3 finish, etc. But for most of us who’ve been slinging S2+es forever? Kinda overkill, no?
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
PS….. Your signature line threw me off for a minute….. until I realized it ‘was’ your signature line. .
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
The new grip pattern Simon posted a picture of looks like my Convoy X3, and I’ve been very happy with it. Good grip, but still comfortable to hold bare-handed. I would be happy to see it become the standard for all Convoy lights.
I have just ordered a bunch of the 5D4 and 5A1 XML2 leds to replace older greenish XML2 leds. I can’t wait to get them!
About the future S2+ 21700 flashlight , I hope it will also be considered to have a single OP/SMO reflector like is now on the 18650 S2+, I somehow like normal reflectors more than TIR because there is less spray light.
I’m now replacing some 3/5 drivers with Biscotti drivers in a few S2+ lights, to get rid of the annoying squeal that some of the 7135×4 and even 7135×3 driver have. It would be nice if the Biscotti driver would have a setting with 10%, 30%, 50%, 100% and wouldn’t mind if it would be one of the first settings. It is rather difficult to select setting number 8 or 9 or 10, since counting the flashes gets difficult then.
Keep up the good work Simon!
Those rosy XML-2’s look very promising, are you going to offer them in some of your lights Simon?
Does anybody now if there will be a lumen gain over the XPL-HI, and of so, big?
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 ; Sofrin C01R 660nm, Mf01 Mini Nichia 219B sw35+sw40
i can install it if buyers want customization
Any update on when SST20 will be available in FA1 or FA4?
I already have 3 S2+ so I prefer to wait for one of those bins to try the high-cri Luminus emitter.
The 219C I received is very nice btw, thank you for offering those.
Very good quality coupled with low price has always been the S2+ strong point. Nice that you want to improve it further.
i’m on holiday ,Chinese New Year is a long time festival.
i will get these tints after holiday
Interested in Convoy S11. When will it be available?
+1
Convoy S11
What is the size of the lithium battery? CCT?
Sorry for my poor english.
I would love to hear some more information about the S11. Will this be available as a host?
I really hope it’s a 21700 cell!
I guess it's designed for 26650...looking at Simon's webpage on AliExpress. I would also like the idea of a host version and the capability to run it with 21700 batteries. The S11 would be an interesting competitor to Sofirn's SP33 V2.0 with XHP50.2 and OP reflector.
It’s great to see new products from Convoy but I was hoping for something new in 21700 format, like a smaller single cell convoy L2 or a S2+ equivalent but with 21700 and brighter
What size is the driver on this S11? Is the switch forward or reverse?
Knurling only on the tailcap, like on the emisar d4 or the fireflies pl47.
EDIT : but the knew simon’s knurling looks good. Little diamonds or several widths of parallel grooves patterns are boring, even if it always looks nice when done well.
I don’t like smooth body. It looks like unfinished.
Reviews: Olight Seeker2 pro, Lumintop GlowI, Sofirn SP36, Convoy 4X18A, Convoy M21C, Brinyte SR8 Rescue Angel, Astrolux MF01 mini, Astrolux FT03S, YLP Sherp S15, Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Imalent MS18 dedoming, Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Zozzlights
That S11 proto looks like something Klarus would make
Find all my reviews of flashlights and more gear at www.bmengineer.com
I too think that the S11 should be a 21700 flashlight, with the less than 7A that it draws there are no downsides switching to 21700 and only advantages.
IMO of course.
link to djozz tests
Yeah, when the 21700 has most of the capacity of the 26650, and seems closer in size to the 18650 vs 26650, and has pretty good current ratings, as much as I like the 26650 I’d think the 21700 would be the better choice.
‘Though all my 26650s here are now probably plotting to kill me for saying so.
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
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