ANDURIL USER MANUAL & LIST OF LIGHTS

279 posts / 0 new
Last post
Dmitriyrus
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 1 week ago
Joined: 05/09/2014 - 12:56
Posts: 63

Could you tell me what is the rewind speed of the discrete modes in the Lumintop EDC18?
I wanted to understand how quickly the modes change when the button is held down. 0.5sec … 0.7sec

JaredM
JaredM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 30 min 4 sec ago
Joined: 10/31/2011 - 13:33
Posts: 1789
Location: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

Original batch FW3A w/ SST20s:

How many clicks to set the ceiling to be at 100% duty cycle on the 8 7135s?

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 13 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10648
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

JaredM wrote:
Original batch FW3A w/ SST20s:

How many clicks to set the ceiling to be at 100% duty cycle on the 8 7135s?

The FW3A firmware has the max regulated level at ramp step 130 of 150… so 21 clicks.

alex64 wrote:
The firmware of Lumintop HL3A is the same of the FW3A? I think so but I wanted to confirm it.

As far as I’ve heard, yes.

To help with figuring out this sort of thing, I created a product and firmware map called PRODUCTS. Also, in Anduril2, the version check function includes the build date and vendor/product ID to identify which exact firmware was used. So in the future it should be easier to get this info.

Dmitriyrus wrote:
Could you tell me what is the rewind speed of the discrete modes in the Lumintop EDC18? I wanted to understand how quickly the modes change when the button is held down. 0.5sec … 0.7sec

If I recall correctly, it’s one HOLD_TIMEOUT unit of time per step, and the firmware for that used a HOLD_TIMEOUT of 24 frames. Each frame is 16ms, so that’s 0.384s per step.

stephenk
stephenk's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 18 min ago
Joined: 01/30/2016 - 05:09
Posts: 1566
Location: Australia

I see in the Anduril manual that the default stepped ramp is 7 steps between “floor” 20/150 and “ceiling” 120/150 (+ turbo).
Is this default setting the same on all Anduril lights? And are the 7 steps equally spaced?
Also, it would be great if manufacturers using Anduril could publish the expected brightness of each of the steps, as per “traditional” flashlights.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 13 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10648
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
stephenk wrote:
Is this default setting the same on all Anduril lights? And are the 7 steps equally spaced? Also, it would be great if manufacturers using Anduril could publish the expected brightness of each of the steps, as per “traditional” flashlights.

The same on all lights? No, the ramp values are different for each build target. The ramp values shown in the manual are only examples.

Equally spaced? Yes, sort of. It’s equally spaced in terms of ramp steps… but what that means in lumens depends on the ramp shape. There’s a tool called steps.py which can be used to calculate exactly which ramp steps it’ll use. For example:

> ./steps.py 20 130 7
1: 20
2: 38
3: 56
4: 75
5: 93
6: 111
7: 130

About what manufacturers publish, I’m sure we’d all like it if flashlight companies would consistently publish accurate data about their lights… but that problem is way beyond anything I can fix.

stephenk
stephenk's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 18 min ago
Joined: 01/30/2016 - 05:09
Posts: 1566
Location: Australia
ToyKeeper wrote:
stephenk wrote:
Is this default setting the same on all Anduril lights? And are the 7 steps equally spaced? Also, it would be great if manufacturers using Anduril could publish the expected brightness of each of the steps, as per “traditional” flashlights.

The same on all lights? No, the ramp values are different for each build target. The ramp values shown in the manual are only examples.

Equally spaced? Yes, sort of. It’s equally spaced in terms of ramp steps… but what that means in lumens depends on the ramp shape. There’s a tool called steps.py which can be used to calculate exactly which ramp steps it’ll use. For example:

> ./steps.py 20 130 7
1: 20
2: 38
3: 56
4: 75
5: 93
6: 111
7: 130

About what manufacturers publish, I’m sure we’d all like it if flashlight companies would consistently publish accurate data about their lights… but that problem is way beyond anything I can fix.

Thanks for the quick reply. I was hoping that something would remove the guesswork at approximating the lumen output at each step, other than referring to published reviews, or buying an integrated sphere.

Benik3
Benik3's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 04/13/2011 - 14:30
Posts: 47
Location: CZ

Does anyone tried Anduril on BLF A6 DD FET+1 driver?
It has reserved pin for button, so it should be possible.

Sorry for my English Sealed

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 55 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 14145
Location: LI NY

Benik3 wrote:
Does anyone tried Anduril on BLF A6 DD FET+1 driver? It has reserved pin for button, so it should be possible.

No reason it shouldn't work. If it has a voltage divider (R1/R2), I would remove the resistors because of added parasitic drain.

Benik3
Benik3's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 04/13/2011 - 14:30
Posts: 47
Location: CZ

True, or change the values to something big or connect it after FET.
I only don’t know how to calculate the PWM_LEVELS and THERM_FASTER_LEVEL.

Sorry for my English Sealed

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 55 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 14145
Location: LI NY

I don't bother. Just pick a similar driver and overall "heat index" of the light. I don't recall what the A6 driver is exactly - 2 channels or FET+1. If FET+1, then use a Q8 or D4 config setting.

Benik3
Benik3's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 04/13/2011 - 14:30
Posts: 47
Location: CZ

It’s FET+1×7135 similar to D4 (it use even same PWM pins).
I will try it with the D4 settings Smile
The flashlight will be my own with 2×6×6 cm Alu block.

Sorry for my English Sealed

Cemoi
Offline
Last seen: 21 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2020 - 07:47
Posts: 139
Location: France

Hi all,

I've just received my first light with the Anduril UI (an Emisar D4v2 with Nichia E21A LED).

I have read in details the Anduril manual, many thanks and congratulations to ToyKeeper for this incredibly versatile and powerful UI, and for the detailed manual and useful diagram.

I have set my light to the stepped ramping, with only 5 steps because I like flashlights with few brightness levels.

Moreover, in order to have a very low Low, I set the Floor level to 2/150. Thus I have a real moonlight mode, nice for night bathroom trips. But I have noticed that when turning the light on in moonlight mode (1 Hold) the LEDs do not light up immediately, but only after about one second. This makes me keep the switch depressed longer than I should, and the light goes to Level2, which is much brighter than moonlight and blinds me. Hence my questions:

  • Is this one-second delay normal (see other issue below)?
  • Is there any way to reduce the brightness difference between Level1 and Level2? I assume that increasing the number of steps would automatically allow this, but as said earlier I don't want too many steps.

On the other hand, I notice that when a battery check (3C) says 3.7V, both my Fluke multimeter and my Opus BT-C100 charger say 3.85V. Can the battery voltage measurement be calibrated?

Now a strange behaviour of the lowest level: if the light has been in one of the highest modes, and I ramp down (click, hold) to Level1 (Floor level), the LEDs turn completely off. But the light is not OFF: in fact the LEDs do light up at the Floor level, but only after being completely off for 15 to 30 seconds! The warmer the light, the longer this delay: 15s when the light is almost cool (High for a short time), 30s when the light is extremely hot (one minute on Turbo).

Is this a defect of my light?

Ultrafire C3 2AA / Akoray K-106 / Nitecore LR10 / Manker E03H / Fenix HL10 / Zebralight H501R + H51W + H53c / DQG Hobi / Astrolux M01 / CooYoo Quantum Ti (lost) / BlackWater Kite Al / Emisar D4v2 (Nichia E21A) / Sofirn C01S / Skilhunt E3A

Jasetaylor
Jasetaylor's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 5 days ago
Joined: 10/16/2020 - 05:29
Posts: 137
Location: West Sussex
Cemoi wrote:

Hi all,


I’ve just received my first light with the Anduril UI (an Emisar D4v2 with Nichia E21A LED).


I have read in details the Anduril manual, many thanks and congratulations to ToyKeeper for this incredibly versatile and powerful UI, and for the detailed manual and useful diagram.


I have set my light to the stepped ramping, with only 5 steps because I like flashlights with few brightness levels.


Moreover, in order to have a very low Low, I set the Floor level to 2/150. Thus I have a real moonlight mode, nice for night bathroom trips. But I have noticed that when turning the light on in moonlight mode (1 Hold) the LEDs do not light up immediately, but only after about one second. This makes me keep the switch depressed longer than I should, and the light goes to Level2, which is much brighter than moonlight and blinds me. Hence my questions:



  • Is this one-second delay normal (see other issue below)?

  • Is there any way to reduce the brightness difference between Level1 and Level2? I assume that increasing the number of steps would automatically allow this, but as said earlier I don’t want too many steps.


On the other hand, I notice that when a battery check (3C) says 3.7V, both my Fluke multimeter and my Opus BT-C100 charger say 3.85V. Can the battery voltage measurement be calibrated?


Now a strange behaviour of the lowest level: if the light has been in one of the highest modes, and I ramp down (click, hold) to Level1 (Floor level), the LEDs turn completely off. But the light is not OFF: in fact the LEDs do light up at the Floor level, but only after being completely off for 15 to 30 seconds! The warmer the light, the longer this delay: 15s when the light is almost cool (High for a short time), 30s when the light is extremely hot (one minute on Turbo).


Is this a defect of my light?

Both of my KR4s exhibit the same behaviour, it isn’t a fault. It is a limitation of the driver type which the vastly more knowledgeable Toykeeper has better explained before. By default the bottom of the ramp (smooth, not stepped) is set to 3 due to the driver.
I set mine to 2 around the house and back to the default level 3 on night time dog walks.

Refer to post #1895.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67638?page=63

Cemoi
Offline
Last seen: 21 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2020 - 07:47
Posts: 139
Location: France

Jasetaylor wrote:
it isn’t a fault. It is a limitation of the driver type which the vastly more knowledgeable Toykeeper has better explained before. By default the bottom of the ramp (smooth, not stepped) is set to 3 due to the driver.

Thanks Jasetaylor for your quick reply, and for the link to the other thread. I will follow up on this topic in this specific thread.

Yes I indeed noted that this behaviour shows up only if the Floor level is set to 1/150 or 2/150.

I'll try to set it to 3/150, and see if it is low enough when I wake up at night.

Ultrafire C3 2AA / Akoray K-106 / Nitecore LR10 / Manker E03H / Fenix HL10 / Zebralight H501R + H51W + H53c / DQG Hobi / Astrolux M01 / CooYoo Quantum Ti (lost) / BlackWater Kite Al / Emisar D4v2 (Nichia E21A) / Sofirn C01S / Skilhunt E3A

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 13 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10648
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
Benik3 wrote:
Does anyone tried Anduril on BLF A6 DD FET+1 driver? It has reserved pin for button, so it should be possible.

The MCU on that driver can’t run Anduril. It uses an attiny13a, but Anduril requires attiny85 or attiny1634.

If you swap the MCU though, it might work. IIRC, the t85 can fit if its legs are bent underneath the chip.

Cemoi
Offline
Last seen: 21 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2020 - 07:47
Posts: 139
Location: France

Cemoi wrote:
I notice that when a battery check (3C) says 3.7V, both my Fluke multimeter and my Opus BT-C100 charger say 3.85V. Can the battery voltage measurement be calibrated?

Second measurement:

  • Anduril battery check (3C): 3.6V
  • Opus BT-100: 3.81V
  • Fluke: 3.77V

Does this mean Anduril measures the voltage under charge?

The good news is the conservative approach of the Anduril battery check, 0.2V less is safer than 0.2V more, WRT the actual voltage.

Ultrafire C3 2AA / Akoray K-106 / Nitecore LR10 / Manker E03H / Fenix HL10 / Zebralight H501R + H51W + H53c / DQG Hobi / Astrolux M01 / CooYoo Quantum Ti (lost) / BlackWater Kite Al / Emisar D4v2 (Nichia E21A) / Sofirn C01S / Skilhunt E3A

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 13 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10648
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

Cemoi wrote:
when turning the light on in moonlight mode (1 Hold) the LEDs do not light up immediately …

Is there any way to reduce the brightness difference between Level1 and Level2?

when a battery check (3C) says 3.7V, both my Fluke multimeter and my Opus BT-C100 charger say 3.85V. Can the battery voltage measurement be calibrated?

The issue with moon turning off is a side effect of the constant current power circuit. Instead of using a digital signal to turn on and off quickly, it uses an analog control voltage. And analog circuits are typically pretty sensitive to environmental factors, so it can behave differently depending on things like temperature and which level it was at a moment earlier.

Steps at the bottom end of the ramp don’t have great spacing on this driver, because the output resolution isn’t very high. It could work around that by repeating each ramp level quite a few times in the internal 150-step table, which would help the stepped ramp spacing… but then the smooth ramp wouldn’t look as nice. So there are tradeoffs. I’m hoping a future version of the hardware will add more resolution at the bottom end.

About voltage calibration, that was added in Anduril 2. It’s not in Anduril 1 though, so you’d have to reflash the firmware to get that function.

If it helps, the way I set up my D4v2 with E21A is:

  • Ramp style: smooth
  • Ramp floor: 1
  • Manual memory level: stepped ramp 2 of 7
  • Memory timer: 10 minutes (Anduril 2 only)

This gives me consistent and predictable output every time I pick up the light, defaulting to my most-used level. But it also gives me the flexibility of the smooth ramp, including moon. So it has some benefits of both ramp styles.

As for reaching moon from off without accidentally going through a bright level, what I find works is: Aim the light so I can see the aux LEDs. Hold the button. As soon as the aux LEDs turn off, let go of the button and turn the light toward what I actually wanted to see.

On most other lights, it’s easy to time the button release by watching for the main LEDs to turn on… but since this driver responds slower, I watch instead for the aux LEDs to turn off.

Cemoi wrote:
Does this mean Anduril measures the voltage under charge?

It mostly just means the attiny chip and other components don’t have very precise calibration from the factory. So some lights read high while others read low. That’s why I eventually added a calibration function.

While the light is running, it reads under whatever load it’s currently using. In battcheck mode, it stays mostly off, so the load is pretty low. However, it uses a rather strong lowpass filter, and the battery itself may take some time to recover after being used at a high level, so battcheck can take a couple readings to converge on a stable value.

Cemoi
Offline
Last seen: 21 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2020 - 07:47
Posts: 139
Location: France

Many thanks ToyKeeper for your detailed reply.

ToyKeeper wrote:
the way I set up my D4v2 with E21A
I've done something similar, which allows me instant access to #1 my most-used level, #2 Moon, #3 High. No other UI allows this AFAIK, because they all allow only automatic memory (which I hate, I don't want my most-used level superseded by a Moon or a High because this is what I last used).

But I chose to set Floor to 3/150, hence avoiding the LED extinction after going down from High to Moon.

Quote:
As for reaching moon from off without accidentally going through a bright level, what I find works is: Aim the light so I can see the aux LEDs. Hold the button. As soon as the aux LEDs turn off, let go of the button

A bit risky if you don't react quickly enough, and your next level after Moon is a bright one (e.g. few steps in stepped ramping mode). I think I'll get used to make a very short "Hold", hence going to Floor and staying at this level before the ramping up starts.

A nice addition to Anduril 2 (maybe it is already planned?) would be a third menu option for the Ramp Config Mode / smooth ramping: ramp speed adjustment. N clicks ==> N seconds between Floor and Ceiling when ramping up.

Quote:
About voltage calibration, that was added in Anduril 2. It’s not in Anduril 1 though, so you’d have to reflash the firmware to get that function.

One more reason for me to plan a future upgrade. I've entered the Anduril world only a few days ago, and I already feel addicted, this UI is so great and configurable that I don't feel anymore like buying lights with a different UI (apart from tiny AAA or 10180 lights). I regret I haven't ordered the reflashing kit from Hank, together with the light. BTW, which lights (apart from Emisar and Noctigon) have a board compatible with this reflashing kit?

Quote:
the battery itself may take some time to recover after being used at a high level, so battcheck can take a couple readings to converge on a stable value.
Here are the results of a few more measurements:
  • Very hot flashlight (1 min @ Turbo): Anduril: 3.3V going up quickly to 3.5V / Fluke 3.60V
  • After letting it cool down to allow the battery to recover: Anduril: 3.4V / Fluke 3.62V
  • After charging the battery, right off the charger: Anduril: 3.9V / Fluke 4.15V. Same values after a two-hour rest.

The latter value is surprising: I remember doing a battery check immediately when I received my D4v2 with a full battery, and Anduril measured 4.1V.

Ultrafire C3 2AA / Akoray K-106 / Nitecore LR10 / Manker E03H / Fenix HL10 / Zebralight H501R + H51W + H53c / DQG Hobi / Astrolux M01 / CooYoo Quantum Ti (lost) / BlackWater Kite Al / Emisar D4v2 (Nichia E21A) / Sofirn C01S / Skilhunt E3A

Benik3
Benik3's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 04/13/2011 - 14:30
Posts: 47
Location: CZ
ToyKeeper wrote:
Benik3 wrote:
Does anyone tried Anduril on BLF A6 DD FET+1 driver? It has reserved pin for button, so it should be possible.

The MCU on that driver can’t run Anduril. It uses an attiny13a, but Anduril requires attiny85 or attiny1634.

If you swap the MCU though, it might work. IIRC, the t85 can fit if its legs are bent underneath the chip.

You are right, for some reason I thought that it use the same MCU
Anyway I have A17-DD driver with attiny25, so at least swapping it for 85 should be easy Smile

Sorry for my English Sealed

Garik F
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 4 days ago
Joined: 09/13/2020 - 12:17
Posts: 58
Location: Russia

I don’t know if this is right topic for my questions, but it seems like, so here they are.

1) I got D4V2 with KR4 CC 5A driver (LED - Nichia 219c) and have noticed that it seems like main channel and FET are active together when FET is active (config file - cfg-noctigon-kr4-219.h) - why it is like that? I may be wrong, but shouldn't it be like FET only?

// don't turn off first channel at turbo level
#undef PWM1_LEVELS
#define PWM1_LEVELS 0, ... ,1023


2) I have compared config files for kr4 (cfg-noctigon-kr4.h) and original driver d4v2 (cfg-emisar-d4sv2.h) and found those difference, which makes me question why it's like this (exept differences in configs that I can undestand, like AUX LED in button, soft reset with button and so on - wich root cause are hosts possibilities)

D4V2:
// stop panicking at ~30% power or ~1200 lm
#define THERM_FASTER_LEVEL 105

KR4:
// stop panicking at ~25% power or ~1000 lm
#define THERM_FASTER_LEVEL 100
#define MIN_THERM_STEPDOWN DEFAULT_LEVEL
#define THERM_NEXT_WARNING_THRESHOLD 16 // accumulate less error before adjusting
#define THERM_RESPONSE_MAGNITUDE 128 // bigger adjustments

So, I see different thermal settings and the question is - this difference due to bigger kr4 thermal mass, or the driver itself? In other words, should I change them for my light like in original d4 config (remove them, so ones from fsm will be taken)?

JohnnyRed
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 days ago
Joined: 12/03/2020 - 16:21
Posts: 4
Location: Escondido, CA

Nev wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
If you want the light to ramp all the way from the lowest level to full power, it’s fairly easy to set up…
  1. Turn the light on.
  2. Click 4 times.
  3. At the first prompt, click 1 time.
  4. At the second prompt, click 1 time.

Done!

Configuring it for a lower level takes longer. Like, to set the ceiling to level 100 of 150, it’s the same process… but the second prompt needs 51 clicks instead of just 1.


Thanks TK , I will have a go ,i like the step ramp to go to ceiling then double click for turbo but I like to to ramp to turbo on smooth ramp , that’s how my d18 came , I would do it to the FW aswell.
Will it alter the step ramp as Well?

Why 51 for 100/150?

SammysHP
SammysHP's picture
Offline
Last seen: 24 min 53 sec ago
Joined: 06/25/2019 - 14:35
Posts: 804
Location: Germany

Because 1 is 150.

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 55 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 14145
Location: LI NY

Garik F wrote:

1) I got D4V2 with KR4 CC 5A driver (LED - Nichia 219c) and have noticed that it seems like main channel and FET are active together when FET is active (config file - cfg-noctigon-kr4-219.h) - why it is like that? I may be wrong, but shouldn't it be like FET only?


2) I have compared config files for kr4 (cfg-noctigon-kr4.h) and original driver d4v2 (cfg-emisar-d4sv2.h) and found those difference, which makes me question why it's like this (exept differences in configs that I can undestand, like AUX LED in button, soft reset with button and so on - wich root cause are hosts possibilities)

D4V2:
// stop panicking at ~30% power or ~1200 lm
#define THERM_FASTER_LEVEL 105

KR4:
// stop panicking at ~25% power or ~1000 lm
#define THERM_FASTER_LEVEL 100
#define MIN_THERM_STEPDOWN DEFAULT_LEVEL
#define THERM_NEXT_WARNING_THRESHOLD 16 // accumulate less error before adjusting
#define THERM_RESPONSE_MAGNITUDE 128 // bigger adjustments

So, I see different thermal settings and the question is - this difference due to bigger kr4 thermal mass, or the driver itself? In other words, should I change them for my light like in original d4 config (remove them, so ones from fsm will be taken)?

For 1), this is a totally different driver than a FET+1 - the main LED PWM is not PWM'ing output directly, like it does on 7135's. The very last level has both turned ON probably for a good reason that TK would know best.

For 2), I assume she custom tweaked the settings for the KR4, as she did for the Emisars. Driver and light are both important

 

If it was me, my best guess would be for your setup of a KR4 driver in a D4V2, I'd go with the KR4 settings.

 

Garik F
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 4 days ago
Joined: 09/13/2020 - 12:17
Posts: 58
Location: Russia
Tom E wrote:

For 1), this is a totally different driver than a FET+1 – the main LED PWM is not PWM’ing output directly, like it does on 7135’s. The very last level has both turned ON probably for a good reason that TK would know best.


For 2), I assume she custom tweaked the settings for the KR4, as she did for the Emisars. Driver and light are both important


 


If it was me, my best guess would be for your setup of a KR4 driver in a D4V2, I’d go with the KR4 settings.


 

Thank you for your answer!

For 1 – I tried it myself (disable 1st channel when turbo on and get very weak turbo – so that’s the reason
For 2 – I’ll tried both config entryes and see no difference, so I continue with KR4 config

Light Veteran
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 10/17/2019 - 03:36
Posts: 66
Location: Italy

Hi, i have not found another place for my question. If it’s wrong place i am so sorry, please move. So..

(Fireflies E07)
I measured my room temperature with Fluke.. 21C°
I want to calibrate temperature so 21 clicks in current temperature mode.
I left the light overnight.
Next day i want to measure temperature and this is happen..
The first cycle of blinks are 21C° , the second cycle are 16.. between the first cycle and second i do not shut off the light… the room temperature is 21

(FW3A)
Now I have set the temperature to 18 (room is 18C°)
Shut off the light…3 clicks than temperature mod.. 21 blinks Facepalm

Why?
is correct?
The thermal sensor must give me the room temperature or the light temperature?
I don’t understand so ask to community

Thank you

Light addicted

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 55 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 14145
Location: LI NY

Before you set room temp in the flashlight, you must do your best to get the flashlight at room temp - that means leaving it sit off for maybe an hour or 2 before setting the temp, and even when you do be sure the light never accidentally goes to a hi mode. What I do is to be sure to press&hold to turn it on at the lowest, ramp up very slightly - turn it off. This assures a lo output when doing the 3 clicks to get into voltage display, then 2C's from there.

Also the first blink of temp is not accurate - thought TK fixed this in a more recent Anduril, maybe just in Anduril2? Not sure. Let it blink out temp 2 times to get a good reading.

Light Veteran
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 10/17/2019 - 03:36
Posts: 66
Location: Italy
Tom E wrote:

Before you set room temp in the flashlight, you must do your best to get the flashlight at room temp – that means leaving it sit off for maybe an hour or 2 before .

I leave overnight.. maybe 8H

Quote:
Also the first blink of temp is not accurate

Why?

Quote:
Let it blink out temp 2 times to get a good reading.

Not mine I think

Light addicted

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 55 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 14145
Location: LI NY

The sequence you described was leaving it over night "after" it was calibrated - you need to stabilize the flashlight temp before calibrated.

Light Veteran
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 10/17/2019 - 03:36
Posts: 66
Location: Italy
Tom E wrote:

The sequence you described was leaving it over night “after” it was calibrated

Yes, because I have already calibrate one time before i write the first post

I am so sorry for my English.. I will try another time and upload thread.

Light addicted

Lightbringer
Lightbringer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 37 min 37 sec ago
Joined: 08/30/2016 - 14:12
Posts: 14223
Location: nyc

When I was calibrating my SC31pro, just holding it in my hand had the temp increase (on blinkout) 1° and then 2° in just a minute or two, so you need to do it fast. And keep the light overnight right next to a thermometer so you can see at a glance the temperature and let both equilibrate.

Next day or however long, go immediately to the temp blinkout and verify what it tells you vs the thermometer temp. If too different, then again, immediately do the calibration, and another temp blinkout to verify that it stuck.

21°C, holding it in a 37°C hand, it’ll warm up a few degrees very quickly.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

Pages