Unpopular Flashlight Opinion Thread

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ChibiM
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I love the designs of hanko's flashlights.... 

xevious
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I still keep my unmodded NovaTac 120P by my bedside and put it to use periodically. I was tempted to mod it, but decided against it — it’s actually quite fine as stock. Doesn’t need to be super bright, or super efficient.

Henk4U2
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- Suppose you admit owning too much flashlights – which one(s) would you get rid of.
- Why be a color fanatic if you only once had a light that really was too fugly to turn on.
- You dearly wanted a BLF GT, but not for any practical reason.
- And are absolutely not in the market for the GT conversion kit from XHP35 to XHP 70.2
- But if it came in a complete “lightmachine”, you might be schlepping both of them around on every trip.
- AAA-lights are nice if you don’t have a smartphone. Like me. And cargo pants are not appropriate.
- A light feels nice if it protrudes just a bit on both sides of the fist, so a big 14500 or a small 18650.
- A strike bezel ads nothing if the rest of the light is smooth and slippery or made of paper-maché.
- If you really wanna start a fire, don’t do it in the pocket of your pants.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

Poguche
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I don’t mind short turbo modes that last a few seconds, I think they are a nice option to have.

I would like flashlight makers to design “smoother” flashlights, just a simple cylinder without different radii or indentations, and with rounded corners, at least for smaller flashlights that are stored in pockets and are used mostly without gloves.

I think it would be very cool if piston drive flashlights returned.

lightboks
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kanton wrote:
Seems like I did it right and it is an unpopular opinion. Big Smile

Lightbringer wrote:
Depends what you need. Any light that has shortcuts to highest/lowest is useful, and memory can be used repeatedly for on/off use without having to ramp/step each’n‘every time.

Eg, the way I use my MH20 is to be able to shortcut to lowest with a halfpress’n‘hold, brightest with fullpress’n‘hold, simple click to anywhere in-between.

One of the SP10s has press’n‘hold to lowest, and N-click to brightest. Same dealy.

Other lights, I reset them to lowest if there’s no shortcut to lowest, then cycle through. Force of habit, not much effort to do it once it gets ingrained into you.

That’s what I mean by working around. Single click is by far the easiest and most natural action on a flashlight. I don’t use single click on the Olight. I don’t use single click on the D4 either. Because it is just output lottery. So I use double click for turbo/high. And I am forced to press and hold the switch for moonlight on the Olight (for ages, it appears) and then have to press it again for ages just to enter low mode. Holding it for too long enters lockout mode btw. It’s kinda frustrating. If I could, I would just set it to always turn on in low mode. Press and hold would than be moon, single click low, double click high/turbo. Still love the M2R for everything else. But yeah. Unpopular opinion is unpopular. At least make it a configurable option. Which it is not in the vast majority of lights.

P.S.: I really like this thread. Many otherwise unvoiced opinions, ideas and flashlights.

seems like would love the wowtac UI

toddcshoe
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kanton wrote:
If I could, I would just set it to always turn on in low mode. Press and hold would than be moon, single click low, double click high/turbo.

ZebraLights new UI does just that. I have one of my mode sets setup like that. It is very enjoyable to use like that.

"Everywhere I go, there I am"

BurningPlayd0h
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Tumbleweed48 wrote:
I love Olight hosts and UIs, but their emitters make me want to ‘emit’.

I hate smooth hosts. My Thrunite T10ti would be a great EDC, but it’s like trying to hang into a fish. (P.S. Major scientific discovery – hockey tape won’t stick to titanium!)

Hockey tape sticks to itself, you need to make a couple layers that overlap and keep it tight.

Source: Am from MN lol

hcanning
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- Throwers are largely pointless. I have a C8 and I enjoy fiddling with it, and it’s fun to use and show off with, but it was cheap, and I wanted a thrower among my repertoire of torches. To me, the expensive ones (BLF GT, Astrolux MF04S etc) are a complete waste of money. They have very, very few practical uses beyond the initial ‘wow’ factor.

- I really like my 6D Maglite

- The build quality of Astrolux torches is way below par

Tjohn
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D4 vs. PT16.

The MecArmy PT-16 triple, along with its interchangeable head, efficient, protected charging port siblings, represents an underappreciated and inspired design.
Ahead of its time, poorly marketed, it was initially priced out of line. Purchased via the ‘inside information coupon code’ provided to BLFers by IS, almost continually since its introduction, the price has been barely more than the D4.
Had the Emisar debutante included the far superior, larger than Carclo optics, protected self charging, circuitry, safety and heat dissipation, the flashaholic world could have different icons.
Had MecArmy asked for UI assistance from the Green Semi-Diety, instead of the team of young military equipment jewelry/outdoor sports enthusiasts taking over their design team, MecArmy would be more than a footnote in North America.
If IS had not straightened out their Military-tactical weapon UI for sales in North America, the PT 10,14,16 and 18 would have been burdened with the same sad sorry UI corporate parent company Altun has insisted on for their CooYoo and Blackwater quasi-clones of the PT-16.
To further demonstrate their lack of marketing acumen, the triple reflector version has only been made available in the exorbitant titanium, brass, and ‘rare’ copper, (not-for-carry) shelf queen editions.

Among the first to recognize, review, value, exalt, modify and carry the PT16, Dale (DB Custom) tricked his into using an 18500, and squeezed D4 level lumens from it. If he, the asteroid resident, and Illumination Supply had been calling the shots, Emisar could be playing catch-up.
Fireflies, Sorfirn, Lumintop (et. al.) learned to read English language flashlight forums that did not diss lights for supposedly copying pineapple/diamond patterns on flashlight tubes, as if proprietary

Petr Sixta
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I do not like 14500 lanterns, which are big and heavy like some 18650 lamps.

The $ 15 light bulbs are WiFi, but the flashlight with a complicated UI for $ 100 is controlled by one switch.

I hate lights that can be accidentally switched on in my pocket. The electronic lock in FW does not cost any money, so why is not it there?

koziy
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I hate yellow tint in flashlights. It reminds me of an old incandescent flashlight that’s in its final stages of dimming because its batteries are about to go dead, so I feel an impulse to turn it off so as to conserve battery power. Years of going on backpacking trips as a kid with incandescent flashlights and headlamps kind of traumatized me. Seeing any flashlight today that has a yellow beam is like being in the same room as an unflushed toilet. It just makes me uneasy.

Copper patina looks gross to me, like a penny that has been touched by thousands of people whose hands have been God knows where before they touched the penny, or like an alkaline battery leaked on it. Brass patina is fine.

Complicated UI’s are great for an EDC light because we’re all unique in our everyday needs, but an outdoor light should only ever have an intuitive, simple UI that can be operated with cold hands, gloved hands or adrenaline-shaking hands. Stop with the double freaking clicks!

Reversible pocket clips are needlessly bulky, and most people who whine to manufacturers to put them on their lights probably don’t even wear brimmed hats regularly. And the ones that do wear baseball caps around probably don’t wear them at night that often. Tail cap magnets are also terrible. Some people just need to learn how to use a headlamp.

Firelight2
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skinny_tie wrote:
The cyan Emisar D4 is one of the best looking lights I’ve ever seen, and I love the “chalky” texture.
I quite like my cyan D4.

I’m not a fan of the chalky texture, but on the other hand it does provide much better grip than the smooth D4, and the cyan D4 is much less chalky than the white D4.

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koziy wrote:
Tail cap magnets are also terrible. Some people just need to learn how to use a headlamp.

Yeah, but if they have a magnetic head, the tailcap magnet is so much easier than those bulky sweaty elastic bands.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

Yokiamy
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Henk4U2 wrote:
- Suppose you admit owning too much flashlights – which one(s) would you get rid of. turn on. - You dearly wanted a BLF GT, but not for any practical reason. - And are absolutely not in the market for the GT conversion kit from XHP35 to XHP 70.2 .

Ouch, this is recognizeable.
I don’t know what lights to get rid of
The GT is a fun to have, but it is barely used, almost a shelf queen, more a showoff.
I seriously doubted (actually still am) on the XHP70.2 conversion kit ( i even bought a strapwrench…) but never ended finishing pressing the paypal button.
My L6 on the other hand is much more practicalfor a XHP70 light

Lightfan
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For my general purposes, tint rarely makes a difference. If I want a specific tint that’s not currently offered in a light I have or want, I make do with trying out different tints from my Lee Filters Swatch Book. Works well enough for me, but I haven’t tried using them in wet conditions yet.

Relevant thread: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/43104

BurningPlayd0h
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Lightfan wrote:
For my general purposes, tint rarely makes a difference. If I want a specific tint that’s not currently offered in a light I have or want, I make do with trying out different tints from my Lee Filters Swatch Book. Works well enough for me, but I haven’t tried using them in wet conditions yet.

Relevant thread: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/43104

Even as a bit of a tint snob I can agree with this. It seems very easy for my eyes to adapt to almost any color temp or hue and still tell colors apart fairly well.

The problem is when there is tint shift IMO, that is not only super irritating but can make it hard to distinguish colors when different parts of the beam make them look so different.

djozz
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Quote:
x100. IMO anduril and the like are a hot mess. If I want a friggin’ candle effect, I’ll light a candle, or go to a sleazy chinese “massage” parlor.

Now here’s someone who really understood the thread title well Big Smile
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NarsilM is just better than Anduril.

The 219B R9080 SW45 is overrated, too rosy, extremely inefficient, and makes everybody wanting the perfect rosy emitter, while something like the E21 is about perfect.

The XHP70.2/XHP 50.2 are not worth it. Cree should just introduce factory dedomed emitters. since these look crap with a dome.

The SST-40 is a POS LED that should be introduced in 5000k CCT.

Convoy/Jaxman lithium-ion lights are the only lights which have been reliable in every way. They have no glaring flaw.

I prefer using credit cards over Paypal. Less fees for the guy/gal working behind.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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The 219b sw45, especially in its 9080 form, is more of a High Color Contrast emitter than Hi Cri neutral daylight emitter.
It’s my preferred LED for this reason.

Like copper tinted eyeglasses, it makes things unnatural, but easier for to me to see.
Aging eyeballs need help sometimes, and the magenta-pink (rose) enhancement increases apparent contrast.

BlueSwordM
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I had not thought about it that way though…

At least the SST-20 is a suitable emitter since it reproduces reds extremely well.

The only suitable replacements is the Mouser SST-20 3500k GA3 and SST-20 HD2 3000k(below BBL).

I have yet to find a good tinted SST-20 4000k.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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After hearing about the great tint of the XPL HI 5D I was surprised to see it look much more yellow/green than the SST-20 4000K in this comparison:

To my eyes, on my monitor the SST looks much more neutral/natural.

BlueSwordM
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That’s an effect of much better color rendition.

On a pure white wall, yes the XP-L HI 5D looks rosier, but outside?

High CRI emitters easily win. The lack of dynamic range of low CRI emitters makes for a worse beam in real world conditions.

I still won’t be touching even a high CRI XHP 50.2/XHP70.2 though.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

BurningPlayd0h
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BlueSwordM wrote:
That’s an effect of much better color rendition.

On a pure white wall, yes the XP-L HI 5D looks rosier, but outside?

High CRI emitters easily win. The lack of dynamic range of low CRI emitters makes for a worse beam in real world conditions.

I still won’t be touching even a high CRI XHP 50.2/XHP70.2 though.

Absolutely, unless you have a light with a huge reflector like the GT70 or an Imalent I’d take a light with multiple small emitters any day and have way better beam profile.

Threadneedle
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“High end” custom flashlights like Okluma, Hanko, Deadwood,and Oveready look amateurish and cheap compared to those from more mainstream manufacturers.

lionheart_2281
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The FW3A isn’t going to live up to the hype and the 2 year GB

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lionheart_2281 wrote:
The FW3A isn’t going to live up to the hype and the 2 year GB

GBers (including myself) will wake up soon to the above and begin (eventually) taking back control of BLF GBs.

Domari Nolo “I Refuse to be Subjugated” (1st Pennsylvania Regiment Flag) https://www.1stcontinentalregiment.org/blank
(Flagguys.com):..and man o man did they ever refuse to be subjugated. These guys were everywhere. They were important in Washington’s siege of Boston. They stayed behind and were the last to leave after covering the main army’s dangerous nick of time retreat from Long Island. They crossed the Delaware with Washington. They were “..at Brandywine, Germantown, Monmouth, and every major skirmish, and battle all the way to Yorktown..” where they fought “the most important part of the siege” according to General Steuben. These guys saw action in every one of the original 13 colonies.

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Totally agree the point about the amateurish customs. If I were machining Ti lights I would make my selling point their ability to withstand a nuclear blast, or drop them to the bottom of the Marianas Trench in the ocean depths. Or send some to Elon Musk to send them into reentry in the atmosphere. Instead….MORE SKULLS.

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Another thought.

If I ask “what is a professional flashlight” the response is not so predictable; the world is on unstable footing.

Some first responders might swear by decades old Maglite tech. Still others might swear by Streamlight. The absolute cutting egde might recommend a Fenix.

The tenderfoots enthusiasts are quick to exclaim how great the Armytek or Thrunite is; others scratch their head thinking “the closest Armytek has been to the Army is they stuck it in the name.”

Some might proclaim nothing short of their $500 HDS will do, as they claim it is a hands down bomber light.

I scratch my head, as I can’t tell if a professional ever had any actual design influence on an Olight, or a Fenix, etc. Any product testing with a police officer? Or paramedic?

Maybe a Police officer needs a 4 hour runtime and a quick charge, a thrower that converts to a multi-angle. An amber strobe.

An enthusiast can afford the collection, can afford to pluck the right tool from the toolbox.

Out in the wild, though, when wind and rain is howling and you have one light, just one, where is the professional swiss army light?

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NWoodsman wrote:
Another thought.

If I ask “what is a professional flashlight” the response is not so predictable; the world is on unstable footing.

Some first responders might swear by decades old Maglite tech. Still others might swear by Streamlight. The absolute cutting egde might recommend a Fenix.

The tenderfoots enthusiasts are quick to exclaim how great the Armytek or Thrunite is; others scratch their head thinking “the closest Armytek has been to the Army is they stuck it in the name.”

Some might proclaim nothing short of their $500 HDS will do, as they claim it is a hands down bomber light.

I scratch my head, as I can’t tell if a professional ever had any actual design influence on an Olight, or a Fenix, etc. Any product testing with a police officer? Or paramedic?

Maybe a Police officer needs a 4 hour runtime and a quick charge, a thrower that converts to a multi-angle. An amber strobe.

An enthusiast can afford the collection, can afford to pluck the right tool from the toolbox.

Out in the wild, though, when wind and rain is howling and you have one light, just one, where is the professional swiss army light?

Yes. Most of the brands based in the US/Canada that make even remotely “tactical”-style lights have.

koziy
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Poguche wrote:
I don’t mind short turbo modes that last a few seconds, I think they are a nice option to have.

Momentary turbo mode makes a lot of sense for camping and hiking and many other practical uses. I just don’t like it when a flashlight gets so hot on turbo and dims so much to cool down that it becomes dimmer after ramping down from turbo than it would have been had I set it to its brightest sustainable mode and left it there.

hcanning wrote:
- Throwers are largely pointless. I have a C8 and I enjoy fiddling with it, and it’s fun to use and show off with, but it was cheap, and I wanted a thrower among my repertoire of torches. To me, the expensive ones (BLF GT, Astrolux MF04S etc) are a complete waste of money. They have very, very few practical uses beyond the initial ‘wow’ factor.

Tend to agree with you here. Don’t get me wrong, I totally do understand the point of throwers, for people who need them. I just don’t have a huge need for them in my own life either. What’s the point of being able to shine a spotlight on something 1 km away when the human eye can’t even make out what it’s looking at that far away. 99% of my daily life takes place in the suburbs and even when I head out into the woods to go camping, I am usually in Eastern woodlands under trees these days, so there are no 1 km wide open areas to throw light across to begin with. A powerful searchlight just doesn’t seem that useful to me.

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