In my testing the 3 channel vs 2 channel efficiency difference was not nearly as much as many people used to think.
That said the 3 channel will have a fairly small window in the low/midrange where it has a bit of an advantage simply because it has a channel specifically designed for that output level.
At other output levels the only real difference is the input voltage.
Honestly there it is not even worth talking about driver efficiency. We are talking about a ~10% change in efficiency one way or the other depending on the exact output level. Considering the LED’s have a tolerance of 12% themselves there are simply better things to worry about.
I think, that if the second channel could be more powerful, the difference in the efficiency (both output and heat wise) could be worthful. For that many emitters (18), I think, 7×7135 is not enough – something like FET + 15 (or even 24) + 1 (or 2) could be better, as it would let the emitters run still fairly efficient on the mid-high output levels.
If I count 40W for a 18650 battery, and I multiply it by 4 (160W for the whole battery holder), then I divide with 18, that is still almost 9W per emitter, which is maybe around 2.6A per emitter, when I only calculate with the FET channel, and that is less than 80 lm/W then.
Maybe the XP-G3 variant could be driven harder with more efficiency, but I think, it would worth to design a 3 channel driver if SST-20 is also considered.
I know, that placing so many 7135 on the driver board would be difficult, but I think, a triple channel FET + 24 + 2 driver would be a very good fit for the MF01S.
In my testing the 3 channel vs 2 channel efficiency difference was not nearly as much as many people used to think.
That said the 3 channel will have a fairly small window in the low/midrange where it has a bit of an advantage simply because it has a channel specifically designed for that output level.
At other output levels the only real difference is the input voltage.
Honestly there it is not even worth talking about driver efficiency. We are talking about a ~10% change in efficiency one way or the other depending on the exact output level. Considering the LED’s have a tolerance of 12% themselves there are simply better things to worry about.
I think, that if the second channel could be more powerful, the difference in the efficiency (both output and heat wise) could be worthful. For that many emitters (18), I think, 7×7135 is not enough – something like FET + 15 (or even 24) + 1 (or 2) could be better, as it would let the emitters run still fairly efficient on the mid-high output levels.
If I count 40W for a 18650 battery, and I multiply it by 4 (160W for the whole battery holder), then I divide with 18, that is still almost 9W per emitter, which is maybe around 2.6A per emitter, when I only calculate with the FET channel, and that is less than 80 lm/W.
Maybe the XP-G3 variant could be driven harder with more efficiency, but I think, it would worth to design a 3 channel driver if SST-20 is also considered.
The other end of this is that by the tint significantly improves when the FET kicks in, so switching to that earlier helps tint consistency and quality. At low current levels the SST-20 has a noticeable green hue. I would actually consider a 1 channel FET driver for the SST-20 if the low modes could be improved.
You edited the post I see.
As my testing of PWM efficiency showed, the old thinking that you could simply take the efficiency at 100% duty and apply it to lower duty’s is not how it works in the real world. The LED does not get as hot and thus the efficiency is improved at lower duty cycles.
For example at 50% duty it was only 10% less efficient then a constant current at the same power IIRC.
Although keep in mind that 10% was purely 10% more lumen output, it is not factor in the efficiency loss from the driver ect. With driver losses factored in the difference would be even less.
As my testing of PWM efficiency showed, the old thinking that you could simply take the efficiency at 100% duty and apply it to lower duty’s is not how it works in the real world. The LED does not get as hot and thus the efficiency is improved at lower duty cycles.
For example at 50% duty it was only 10% less efficient then a constant current at the same power IIRC.
Good to know – then favoring better tint is not that costly to efficiency, as I thought before.
The other end of this is that by the tint significantly improves when the FET kicks in, so switching to that earlier helps tint consistency and quality. At low current levels the SST-20 has a noticeable green hue. I would actually consider a 1 channel FET driver for the SST-20 if the low modes could be improved.
Can confirm. The tint isn’t very good until the FET kicks in. So below ~600 lm it’s not what I’d call white. But above ~600 lm, the tint is very nice. People who like a lot of light will probably love this thing.
Can confirm. The tint isn’t very good until the FET kicks in. So below ~600 lm it’s not what I’d call white. But above ~600 lm, the tint is very nice. People who like a lot of light will probably love this thing.
Total output of the MF01S. It can’t drive just one LED at a time.
Ok that’s alright then. My most used modes on the MF01 are 2 and 4 which are both over 600 Lumen. Btw when u say green do you mean greener than the nichia MF01?
Yh too many colours. It should be one colour at a time.
Edit: actually it doesn’t look to bad but the guy above is right. Green should be replace with something else. Maybe warm white?
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Aux color status showing depended on the Volts is a good idear, but bling bling overload especially Pink is a “No Go”..
Would be nice to choose the color of Aux..
List updated.
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I think, that if the second channel could be more powerful, the difference in the efficiency (both output and heat wise) could be worthful. For that many emitters (18), I think, 7×7135 is not enough – something like FET + 15 (or even 24) + 1 (or 2) could be better, as it would let the emitters run still fairly efficient on the mid-high output levels.
I took a look at maukka’s output test for SST-20 4000K, and with ~0.5A per LED, that is about 120 lm/W.
If I count 40W for a 18650 battery, and I multiply it by 4 (160W for the whole battery holder), then I divide with 18, that is still almost 9W per emitter, which is maybe around 2.6A per emitter, when I only calculate with the FET channel, and that is less than 80 lm/W then.
Maybe the XP-G3 variant could be driven harder with more efficiency, but I think, it would worth to design a 3 channel driver if SST-20 is also considered.
I know, that placing so many 7135 on the driver board would be difficult, but I think, a triple channel FET + 24 + 2 driver would be a very good fit for the MF01S.
The other end of this is that by the tint significantly improves when the FET kicks in, so switching to that earlier helps tint consistency and quality. At low current levels the SST-20 has a noticeable green hue. I would actually consider a 1 channel FET driver for the SST-20 if the low modes could be improved.
You edited the post I see.
As my testing of PWM efficiency showed, the old thinking that you could simply take the efficiency at 100% duty and apply it to lower duty’s is not how it works in the real world. The LED does not get as hot and thus the efficiency is improved at lower duty cycles.
For example at 50% duty it was only 10% less efficient then a constant current at the same power IIRC.
Although keep in mind that 10% was purely 10% more lumen output, it is not factor in the efficiency loss from the driver ect. With driver losses factored in the difference would be even less.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Good to know – then favoring better tint is not that costly to efficiency, as I thought before.
Potentially interested in 3.
Can confirm. The tint isn’t very good until the FET kicks in. So below ~600 lm it’s not what I’d call white. But above ~600 lm, the tint is very nice. People who like a lot of light will probably love this thing.
Do you mean per LED or total output?
Total output of the MF01S. It can’t drive just one LED at a time.
Ok that’s alright then. My most used modes on the MF01 are 2 and 4 which are both over 600 Lumen. Btw when u say green do you mean greener than the nichia MF01?
Looks quite bright. Any info on the lumens. I’ll buy it if the 95 cri can do 12k.
Interested in Hi CRI.
interested
Don’t like the Christmas tree color aux lights. Can we choose aux light colors?
sign me up
u dont like red? its nice too look at.
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I think they were referring to the mixed three color aux leds in the video.
I’m in for one. Thank you!
Too late to jump on this train? I’d definitely be down for (1) of these!
[June 11, 2019]
What do you think about the MF01S design after viewing the video?
We would like to hear your views.
There are four colors LEDs embedded on the board.
3.9v or more color: green + pink + blue
3.3v-3.9v color: pink + blue
2.9v-3.3v color: red
2.9v or less: OFF
Personally, I don’t like the green. Makes it too Christmas toy like. I would prefer another color such as orange or warm white over green.
Yh too many colours. It should be one colour at a time.
Edit: actually it doesn’t look to bad but the guy above is right. Green should be replace with something else. Maybe warm white?
Agreed one color at a time. How about
3.9v or more color: green
3.3v-3.9v color: yellow or amber
2.9v-3.3v color: red
2.9v or less: OFF
Aux color status showing depended on the Volts is a good idear, but bling bling overload especially Pink is a “No Go”..
Would be nice to choose the color of Aux..
In GoD & Trance we trust, the rest pay Cash!!
I like the green and blue. Being able to choose colors would be the best choice.
“Electricity is really just organized lightning”
― George Carlin
I agree, one color at time, if all aux colors are on at the same time it will look hideous lol
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