✌ FREEME - ASTROLUX MF01S 15000lm Flashlight Group Buy - ENDED

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JasonWW
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Yes, flashlights are meant to be small and portable so they are quite limited as far as how much heat they can shed. There are small fan cooled lights (LED based) with high sustained output, but they are very expensive.

I think the current leader for highest sustained lumens for a non-active cooled led light is the Imalent DX80. It is rated at 32,000 lumen and can sustain 6k-7k lumen. It’s a very big light running efficient leds.

If you main goal is to get the max sustainable output you want to use very efficient LEDs like Cree xpl, xhp70.2, etc… The Luminus SST-20 is not very efficient.

A cheaper light source that can handle very high temps would be an HID design, but they also have their negative sides like cost and lower efficiency.

Keep in mind that sometimes we get fixed on a lumen number, like I need 4000 lumen continuous, when the actual number is flexible. 4000 lumen spread over a big area looks dim. 4000 focused in a small area looks bright. So we have to consider hot spot size as well as lumens.

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Cloud
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JasonWW wrote:
Yes, flashlights are meant to be small and portable so they are quite limited as far as how much heat they can shed. There are small fan cooled lights (LED based) with high sustained output, but they are very expensive.

I think the current leader for highest sustained lumens for a non-active cooled led light is the Imalent DX80. It is rated at 32,000 lumen and can sustain 6k-7k lumen. It’s a very big light running efficient leds.

If you main goal is to get the max sustainable output you want to use very efficient LEDs like Cree xpl, xhp70.2, etc… The Luminus SST-20 is not very efficient.

A cheaper light source that can handle very high temps would be an HID design, but they also have their negative sides like cost and lower efficiency.

Keep in mind that sometimes we get fixed on a lumen number, like I need 4000 lumen continuous, when the actual number is flexible. 4000 lumen spread over a big area looks dim. 4000 focused in a small area looks bright. So we have to consider hot spot size as well as lumens.

Yes I am very conscious of the area the light distributes to. I in fact in general dislike flooders and like searchlight as much more versatile lights where I can get a definite hot spot to throw farther if need be as well as illluminate an immediate area almost evenly.
I do think there is a light better/ much cheaper than imalentdx80 that can sustain high output 8,000 lumens almost indefinitely, which is thrunite TN 36 limited edition. Turbo at 11k, and then dials down to 8k for a loooooooong time it seems….

JasonWW
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Cloud wrote:

I do think there is a light better/ much cheaper than imalent dx80 that can sustain high output 8,000 lumens almost indefinitely, which is thrunite TN 36 limited edition. Turbo at 11k, and then dials down to 8k for a loooooooong time it seems….

That light seems to be about 3500 lumen continuous. Definitely not 8000. It’s just too small to shed enough heat. The 70.2 LEDs are pretty efficient, though.

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Cloud
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JasonWW wrote:
Cloud wrote:
I do think there is a light better/ much cheaper than imalent dx80 that can sustain high output 8,000 lumens almost indefinitely, which is thrunite TN 36 limited edition. Turbo at 11k, and then dials down to 8k for a loooooooong time it seems….
That light seems to be about 3500 lumen continuous. Definitely not 8000. It’s just too small to shed enough heat. The 70.2 LEDs are pretty efficient, though.

I have the tn36, it’s definitely much brighter than 3500 once turbo dials down. I don’t know if it runs indefinitely but can do some more testing . To my bare eyes it looked tentatively around 8, as it was brighter than the fireflies E07 with 6900lm and sofirn q8. But again I didn’t wait thaaat long to see what happens…

Chinaheart
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Plan to buy another 1… any code for grp buy.. Thanks

SKV89
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Does anyone know many amps the three different aux modes pull or approximately how long long it takes to deplete the batteries on these modes? Will the blinking mode drain faster?

Cloud
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Cloud wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Cloud wrote:
I do think there is a light better/ much cheaper than imalent dx80 that can sustain high output 8,000 lumens almost indefinitely, which is thrunite TN 36 limited edition. Turbo at 11k, and then dials down to 8k for a loooooooong time it seems….
That light seems to be about 3500 lumen continuous. Definitely not 8000. It’s just too small to shed enough heat. The 70.2 LEDs are pretty efficient, though.

I have the tn36, it’s definitely much brighter than 3500 once turbo dials down. I don’t know if it runs indefinitely but can do some more testing . To my bare eyes it looked tentatively around 8, as it was brighter than the fireflies E07 with 6900lm and sofirn q8. But again I didn’t wait thaaat long to see what happens…

I tested the ten 36 last night. After the turbo dial down ( which didn’t work the right way for me I suspect due to the old batteries, it just turned off) I decided to see how long it will stay on max ramp ( 8k lumens) I did 2 tests with 2 sets of batteries which were a couple years old. The first test was half hour and the light output stayed somewhere in between 5-7 k lumens with almost no sagging at all. Most sustainable thing I’ve seen, the one hour same thing sagging maybe to around 4.5-5,5 . After the test the vbatteties were at around 3.53v. This was all visual in comparison with other lights and of course a warmer tint of the tn36 I had messed up my perception a bit too. But it was definitely about 3.5k for like an hour. For the first 20 minutes I could still hold the handle but after than needed a towel to tolerate the temperature. Hope this helps.
SKV89
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Cloud wrote:
To my bare eyes it looked tentatively around 8, as it was brighter than the fireflies E07 with 6900lm and sofirn q8.

Don’t trust your bare eyes. I learned so much after I bought the TA lumen tube. The E07 is a flooder so the beam intensity is lower, which makes your eyes think it is less bright. For example, if I compare my Acebeam K75 that measured 4,100 lumens with my E07 that measures 6,500 lumens (both are CW), the K75 looks MUCH BRIGHTER to my eyes than the E07.

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For anyone wanting to maximize their output, I gained about 1,000 lumens in both of my MF01S by doing a thorough cleaning. I took the battery carrier out, unscrewed the contact plates in both the tube and tail cap and gave everything a thorough clearning with detergent. I also wiped down the threads and contacts in the head with isopropyl alcohol.

This is a very good practice. I always wash my flashlights when I receive them from the factory. Most flashlights gain at least 10% from thorough cleaning like this one. Some of my flashlights see 20%-30% increase in output after cleaning. It’s too easy to get thread grease on the contacts and batteries so you need to clean them occasionally. I also clean my batteries and contacts on my charger every once in a while.

Also if you must use thread grease, use a conductive grease like the NO-OX-ID.

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^ any idea if the No-ox-id is hard on rubber or silicone o-rings?  Been using super lube lately but seems a little messy.

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Funny you mention cleaning. I just got my second MF01S and it had some kind of grit or gravel in the box when it arrived. I had to pop a couple small rocks out of the cooling fins and the light had some gritty powder that needed to be washed off. Thankfully no damage to the light, everything looks and functions just fine.

And an update about the faint noise coming from my purple 4000k light. The new green 6500k light does the exact same thing and both are working perfectly so I’m sure it’s completely normal.

freeme
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It is a good practice to inspect every received lights before using.

SKV89 wrote:
For anyone wanting to maximize their output, I gained about 1,000 lumens in both of my MF01S by doing a thorough cleaning. I took the battery carrier out, unscrewed the contact plates in both the tube and tail cap and gave everything a thorough clearning with detergent. I also wiped down the threads and contacts in the head with isopropyl alcohol. This is a very good practice. I always wash my flashlights when I receive them from the factory. Most flashlights gain at least 10% from thorough cleaning like this one. Some of my flashlights see 20%-30% increase in output after cleaning. It's too easy to get thread grease on the contacts and batteries so you need to clean them occasionally. I also clean my batteries and contacts on my charger every once in a while. Also if you must use thread grease, use a conductive grease like the "NO-OX-ID":https://www.illumn.com/miscellaneous/no-ox-id-a-special-electrical-grade...

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Sergey_1998
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I am interesed for two diffusers

adam7027
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I am interested in a diffuser for my MF01S. Could you please PM me the $1.99 deal?

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Chinaheart wrote:
Plan to buy another 1... any code for grp buy.. Thanks

 

 

First order (Aug 28 2019) arrived at Sept 11 2019...

freeme
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Okay.

Sergey_1998 wrote:
I am interesed for two diffusers

 

adam7027 wrote:
I am interested in a diffuser for my MF01S. Could you please PM me the $1.99 deal?

 

Shipping is usually fast for in-stock terms. 

Chinaheart wrote:

Chinaheart wrote:
Plan to buy another 1... any code for grp buy.. Thanks

 

 

First order (Aug 28 2019) arrived at Sept 11 2019...

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Interested in the red MF01S, is there still a discount code available? If so, a diffuser too

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I’m looking for some info on the MF01S, probably mentioned somewhere but I’m unable to find it — what driver, eg. FET + 5? FET + 5 + 1?

On battery insertion, the flashlight is in regulated NoPWM mode — around how much current (7135 x ??) is it consuming in this mode, and also around how many lumens (I suppose around 700 lumens regulated level, on battery insertion, for the neutral/cool-white 18x SST20).

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d_t_a wrote:
I’m looking for some info on the MF01S, probably mentioned somewhere but I’m unable to find it — what driver, eg. FET + 5? FET + 5 + 1?

On battery insertion, the flashlight is in regulated NoPWM mode — around how much current (7135 x ??) is it consuming in this mode, and also around how many lumens (I suppose around 700 lumens regulated level, on battery insertion, for the neutral/cool-white 18x SST20).


2 channel, a small FET with resistor bank good for about 500 lumen (since 7135 don’t work well at 6v), then the big FET for the rest.

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Hi all,

I am a little confused about how the Auxiliary LEDs are supposed to function. If I turn the first dial so that the green LEDs get brighter the blue and purple ones go OFF. With that dial set to green being bright none of the other have any effect.

Is there only a set amount of current going to ALL of the emitters that is being divided up between them, and my only choice is how much goes to which LEDs? Or am I just doing it wrong? I would like to see all of the color LEDs be maxed out like the green ones are when only those are on.

Any help is appreciated Smile

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Is the code still.available? Thank you.

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freeme
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Yes.

Geronimo wrote:
Is the code still.available? Thank you.

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Lord_Polymath
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I ordered an MF01S but I’m not sure what batteries to buy. There seems to be conflicting information about whether it takes button top or flats. Can someone recommend a battery?
I’m thinking Samsung 30Q button tops.

denos
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Lord_Polymath wrote:
I ordered an MF01S but I’m not sure what batteries to buy. There seems to be conflicting information about whether it takes button top or flats. Can someone recommend a battery? I’m thinking Samsung 30Q button tops.

Button top Samsung 30Q will work well.

You can technically use flat tops but it can stretch / tear the the 18650 wrapper and insulator from what I’ve seen online. If you already have suitable flat tops and a good soldering iron, solder blobs will work well too.

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denos wrote:
Lord_Polymath wrote:
I ordered an MF01S but I’m not sure what batteries to buy. There seems to be conflicting information about whether it takes button top or flats. Can someone recommend a battery? I’m thinking Samsung 30Q button tops.

Button top Samsung 30Q will work well.

You can technically use flat tops but it can stretch / tear the the 18650 wrapper and insulator from what I’ve seen online. If you already have suitable flat tops and a good soldering iron, solder blobs will work well too.

Thanks. I’ll get some 30Q button tops. There really should be some official clarification.

d_t_a
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(might be a bit off-topic…)

JasonWW wrote:
I’m trying to find drivers that don’t use PWM. It looks like linear drivers do this. They somehow are able to output a stable reduced voltage current level to control the brightness of the LED. I’m not very familiar with this driver design but it makes sense and that there would be no flicker. Usually LEDs have a limited voltage range and if the voltage goes too low the LED simply turns off. So it’s really tricky getting moonlight and low levels.

Edit- This design seems to limit the current through the use of a linear regulator (adjustable current limitor). I’m still trying to understand it.

Just saw your comment about looking for non-PWM drivers. I’m not that familiar with drivers, but I generally test if each flashlight has PWM (my method is a bit crude — I shine the light through a small portable fan blades). I’m not sure how fast the fan blades spin, but for BLF A6 driver or Biscotti or Bistro or NarsilM or Anduril, I can still “see” the fast PWM pattern on lower brightness levels, using this method.

However on some flashlights I tested, I couldn’t “see” PWM, so I determine they have No PWM (or are faster than what I can observe by shining flashlight thru the spinning fan blade).

These are some flashlights I tested using my crude method above, and I can’t “see” PWM on all their brightness levels (lowest, medium to high levels):

AAA flashlights:
BLF/Astrolux A01 (Nichia 219B) (Manker driver)
Lumintop EDC01 (XP-G3)
Lumintop Tool AAA (XP-G2)
ZanFlare F3 (XP-G2)
NiteCore TIP CRI 2017 (Nichia 219C) (keychain light)

AA/14500:
BlitzWolf BW-ET1 (XPL-HD)

18650:
Eagle Eye X2R (XM-L2)
ZanFlare F1 (XPL-HD)
Convoy S2+ (SST40 “4-mode” driver)
Wuben LT35 (XP-L2)
Eagle Eye X6 (XPL-Hi)
Sofirn SP32A v2.0 (XP-L2)

21700:
Sofirn C8G (XHP35-Hi)
Sofirn SD05 (XHP50.2)

26650:
Sofirn SP33 (XHP50.2)

(I think there may are some more I failed to list above)

vik267777
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I have Acebeam t27,h30 and h40. They are non-PWM

vik267777
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Any chance copper head will be produced?

JasonWW
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I’m not looking for non-PWM drivers to study anymore. That’s old. Thanks anyway.

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morelightnow
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Are there any greens left?

Also, does anyone know what the input voltage range is?

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