We have a ROT66 killer over here. Without lightened switch, aux led, charging ports and other gimmicks.
3*18650 format is comfortable even for holding the light for long.
I hope you make a 21700 D4 or D4S once.
CCT mixing will result in a better tint, but figuring out how to do it in this light gives me a headache
Does it have D4 UI V2, V3 or Anduril?
That’s a rather odd place for a lanyard hole since the hand will be placed over it. And it looks sharp.
@Hank, the 3000K and 4000K SST-20’s you have in stock are binned above the BBL thus the tint of them isn’t super appealing. The 3500K version BlueSwordM sells is binned below the BBL (GA3 tint bin). Can you make a D18 with them after sending these leds to you? Or maybe you are willing so source them. Or selling a D18 without leds and with an adequate lower price.
—
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm Photo Red ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 (for sale)
Will this be a bit lighter than a BLF Q8? I hope so.. body is 4-6 mm thinner, this is good
And will it be flat or button top?
For that size, there is no place for a battery carryer. Thant means 3P battery with contact-ring on the driver.
So you will need button-top Samsung batteries or flat-top batteries from other manufacturers.
From my experiemence Samsung has deepened flat tops, that means shrink tube is higher than the flat top. And that will not make contact to a driver contact ring.
The most other manufacturers has rised flat top, where the flat top is higher than shrink tube. And such batteries will make contact. E.g. Sony, LG, Sanyo, … will fit.
High current batteries only. I think 20A per battery is realistic. That means around 3A per Emitter.
The flashlight will drain 180-200W, as I have estimated.
That’s not going to happen and it’s a shame IMO…
My Olight X7R sees much more use that my X7 because of that.
Taking out multiple cells to charge them then put them back in the light is really a PITA compared to simply plug in a cable.
I mean, okay swapping batteries on a single battery flashlight like the D4 is natural because it eats them so fast… but on a multiple cells like the D18 it would be more practical.
Anyway, this is an unpopular flashaolic opinion and I’m going to put it in the appropriate thread.
—
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
The flashlight will drain 180-200W, as I have estimated.
Wondering how quickly the thermal stepdown will kick in.
It seems to me when the temperature of the environment is 25°C and the temperature control of 55°C the D18 will be thermostable at 1500Lm. For greater brightness without overheating in such the body D18, emitters are needed XHP.
Turbo mode (14000Lm) will be very short, about 80 seconds.
I’m surprised to see that nobody asks about what optics the D18 use.
Ok, I can not wait to tell you, that in order to maintain a smaller head, and as pocket-able as possible,
we use 18 pcs single optics, and squeeze every tiny room in the head. Not a easy work for the assembly, the production speed is slow.
I have some questions
1) Will there be XP-l HI 3A version and if it will be more expensive?
2) Is it possible to order a black frame in the front in the black version?
3) Will the batteries be replaced by unscrewing the tail cap, or do you have to unscrew the whole tube?
I have some questions
1) Will there be XP-l HI 3A version and if it will be more expensive?
2) Is it possible to order a black frame in the front in the black version?
3) Will the batteries be replaced by unscrewing the tail cap, or do you have to unscrew the whole tube?
1. 18 pcs XP-L HI 3A LED will be very expensive.
2. It is black mask on all the D18.
3. You will need to unscrew the whole tube to change the batteries, just like the Meteor M43.
I’m glad I don’t have to keep this to myself any more.
This light is really bright. Like, really really bright. I can’t even measure it properly, because it’s way more lumens than I have equipment for. It’s like a Noctigon Meteor M43 but a bit smaller, a lot brighter, and with a smooth/stepped ramping UI.
With a “normal” driver and the best firmware around. Glad to see you got your hands in this one TK, I remember you aching when you couldnt do anything with the Meteor FW.
PS: This has a bit of a DBCustom vibe coming from it haha.
Will this dethrone my ROT66? No stainless steel tailcap, aux leds on button and head are turndowns compared to the ROT66, but the sheer turbo burst output and the possibility of more efficient lower runtimes make me salivate. If 9 emitters in an ROT66 can run without heat at around 1400 lumens, I’m assuming double the emitters can get up to like 2-2500 lumens without heat issues? Maybe, but it is a small host.
I’m surprised to see that nobody asks about what optics the D18 use.
Ok, I can not wait to tell you, that in order to maintain a smaller head, and as pocket-able as possible,
we use 18 pcs single optics, and squeeze every tiny room in the head. Not a easy work for the assembly, the production speed is slow.!https://intl-outdoor.com/images/20190314214330.png!
So swapping the lenses should be doable.
But there’s like 500 lm loss because you need to put a glass in front of them
What is the diameter of a single lens?
Have you considered adding a 19th lens in the middle and moving electrical connections to the side?
BTW:
I’m very happy to learn about the price. I’d really like to get one as soon as my budget permits it.
Beam angle?
Can the black mask on top be removed or does it help keep optics in place?
Will it be possible for advanced user to replace LEDs? No glue, etc?
We have a ROT66 killer over here. Without lightened switch, aux led, charging ports and other gimmicks.
3*18650 format is comfortable even for holding the light for long.
I hope you make a 21700 D4 or D4S once.
CCT mixing will result in a better tint, but figuring out how to do it in this light gives me a headache
Does it have D4 UI V2, V3 or Anduril?
That’s a rather odd place for a lanyard hole since the hand will be placed over it. And it looks sharp.
@Hank, the 3000K and 4000K SST-20’s you have in stock are binned above the BBL thus the tint of them isn’t super appealing. The 3500K version BlueSwordM sells is binned below the BBL (GA3 tint bin). Can you make a D18 with them after sending these leds to you? Or maybe you are willing so source them. Or selling a D18 without leds and with an adequate lower price.
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm Photo Red ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 (for sale)
For that size, there is no place for a battery carryer. Thant means 3P battery with contact-ring on the driver.
So you will need button-top Samsung batteries or flat-top batteries from other manufacturers.
From my experiemence Samsung has deepened flat tops, that means shrink tube is higher than the flat top. And that will not make contact to a driver contact ring.
The most other manufacturers has rised flat top, where the flat top is higher than shrink tube. And such batteries will make contact. E.g. Sony, LG, Sanyo, … will fit.
High current batteries only. I think 20A per battery is realistic. That means around 3A per Emitter.
The flashlight will drain 180-200W, as I have estimated.
That’s not going to happen and it’s a shame IMO…
My Olight X7R sees much more use that my X7 because of that.
Taking out multiple cells to charge them then put them back in the light is really a PITA compared to simply plug in a cable.
I mean, okay swapping batteries on a single battery flashlight like the D4 is natural because it eats them so fast… but on a multiple cells like the D18 it would be more practical.
Anyway, this is an unpopular flashaolic opinion and I’m going to put it in the appropriate thread.
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$
Wow, Hank. That looks really good!
Stop making me feel these feels. That looks like a PiTA to pull off, but damn would it be worth it…..
It seems to me when the temperature of the environment is 25°C and the temperature control of 55°C the D18 will be thermostable at 1500Lm. For greater brightness without overheating in such the body D18, emitters are needed XHP.
Turbo mode (14000Lm) will be very short, about 80 seconds.
Sorry for my poor english.
I absolutely must must must have one!!!
We don’t know the price. Will you buy it for 400 USD?
I predict 189$
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https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.
https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.
That’s fantastic! This is a definite buy.
I’m surprised to see that nobody asks about what optics the D18 use.
Ok, I can not wait to tell you, that in order to maintain a smaller head, and as pocket-able as possible,
we use 18 pcs single optics, and squeeze every tiny room in the head. Not a easy work for the assembly, the production speed is slow.
https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.
raucous applause erupts from the internet
I have some questions
1) Will there be XP-l HI 3A version and if it will be more expensive?
2) Is it possible to order a black frame in the front in the black version?
3) Will the batteries be replaced by unscrewing the tail cap, or do you have to unscrew the whole tube?
Click on: ANSI WHITE
Click on: MY COLLECTION
Click on: Q8, D4, D4S, D18, K1, FW3A, SDmini, Mini AAA, TIP, M43, H1, H03, TC20, TN40S, TN42, V6, H600Fw, SC600w, SC64w
@Hank, how much work does that require?
That looks insane.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
Very nice work Hank!
Curious to see a side by side with the Meteor m43.
1. 18 pcs XP-L HI 3A LED will be very expensive.
2. It is black mask on all the D18.
3. You will need to unscrew the whole tube to change the batteries, just like the Meteor M43.
https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.
With a “normal” driver and the best firmware around. Glad to see you got your hands in this one TK, I remember you aching when you couldnt do anything with the Meteor FW.
PS: This has a bit of a DBCustom vibe coming from it haha.
Looking very good!
I presume this needs button top cells? Might order 30Q button tops before the D18 goes on sale
Will this dethrone my ROT66? No stainless steel tailcap, aux leds on button and head are turndowns compared to the ROT66, but the sheer turbo burst output and the possibility of more efficient lower runtimes make me salivate. If 9 emitters in an ROT66 can run without heat at around 1400 lumens, I’m assuming double the emitters can get up to like 2-2500 lumens without heat issues? Maybe, but it is a small host.
I am aware that XP-L will be expensive, but I prefer this option anyway. Will you still give this opportunity?
Click on: ANSI WHITE
Click on: MY COLLECTION
Click on: Q8, D4, D4S, D18, K1, FW3A, SDmini, Mini AAA, TIP, M43, H1, H03, TC20, TN40S, TN42, V6, H600Fw, SC600w, SC64w
So swapping the lenses should be doable.
But there’s like 500 lm loss because you need to put a glass in front of them
What is the diameter of a single lens?
Have you considered adding a 19th lens in the middle and moving electrical connections to the side?
BTW:
I’m very happy to learn about the price. I’d really like to get one as soon as my budget permits it.
And one more question. Will the LED system be aligned with the switch? I had this problem with M43 and I had to correct the alignment myself.
Click on: ANSI WHITE
Click on: MY COLLECTION
Click on: Q8, D4, D4S, D18, K1, FW3A, SDmini, Mini AAA, TIP, M43, H1, H03, TC20, TN40S, TN42, V6, H600Fw, SC600w, SC64w
Seems like XPL wouldn’t fit under this tiny optics.
Thank you Hank for another facinating light! I’m so thankful for your work and look forward to this in my hands! You are very creative!
https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.
Beam angle?
Can the black mask on top be removed or does it help keep optics in place?
Will it be possible for advanced user to replace LEDs? No glue, etc?
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