✌ FREEME- ASTROLUX MF01 Mini 7*SST20 CRI95 26650 ANDÚRIL Flashlight Group Buy - $45.99

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Rocky M Garapon
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JasonWW wrote:
Rocky M Garapon wrote:
ver_ivanz007 wrote:
Yes, it is easy. I used a small flat head screw driver. First you enable the high settings for the AUX LED, then turn clockwise to increase the brightness.

HI mate, how to enable high settings for the Aux LED? Also, can you help me set my aux to blinkinking mode? The manual did not specifically says how except for 7 clicks on off and 3 clicks on lockout mode. Thank you so much.


With the light off, have you tried 7 fast clicks? I think that should switch the aux lights to the next mode.

Yes I did the 7 clicks a number of times but the aux lights remain still.

Rocky M Garapon
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Down_South wrote:
Rocky M Garapon wrote:
ver_ivanz007 wrote:
Yes, it is easy. I used a small flat head screw driver. First you enable the high settings for the AUX LED, then turn clockwise to increase the brightness.

HI mate, how to enable high settings for the Aux LED? Also, can you help me set my aux to blinkinking mode? The manual did not specifically says how except for 7 clicks on off and 3 clicks on lockout mode. Thank you so much.

Mine came with the AUX LEDs set too dim to see on the low mode. Had to take the top off and adjust the trimmers. Just gently turn each one to see what it does then return it the original setting.
Once you know what each does adjust them how you want.
I’m sure there are instructions in here somewhere but they can be hard to find.

I prefer to change the settings in lockout mode at first as it’s easier. Once you know how, do the normal mode.
Off – 4 quick clicks for lockout then 3 quick clicks advances to the next mode each time you do it. That sets the AUX LED mode in lockout.
Off – 7 quick clicks in normal mode advances the AUX LED mode each time you do it. That sets the AUX LED mode in normal operation.


Thank you so much.
Rocky M Garapon
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JasonWW wrote:
Down_South wrote:

Mine came with the AUX LEDs set too dim to see on the low mode. Had to take the top off and adjust the trimmers.


Why do that when you can just switch them to the brighter option with 7 fast clicks?

May I know how? Thanks.
JasonWW
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Down_South wrote:

I’d say “If they can’t see you they can’t shoot you” but then I’d have a different flashlight. Actually . . .
I have no idea what your talking about.

Wish the AUX LEDs could be off with just the switch lit. High, low, breathe, off.
You can turn the aux leds off with the trimmer.

Life’s about choices. I like all I can get. It’s why I left the USA years ago.

Little freedom left there when I left and none now so I’m told by almost everyone returning from there.

That’s what I hear every time I go to the local VFW for some beers and talk.
This is propaganda? If you are being forced to say this, blink twice.

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JasonWW
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Rocky M Garapon wrote:

Yes, I did the 7 clicks a number of times, but the aux lights remain still.

Make sure you are not in muggle mode.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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pooptoast
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Got mine a few days ago and I’m really impressed. I ordered a silver 5000k but asked if they could send me a green one instead and Banggood came through. Very happy that they did, the color looks great. I do sort of wish I’d gone for the 4000k but I have an MF01S in 4000k so I figured I’d try a different temp this time. It’s nice but not as nice as the 4000k; oh well, live and learn.

Dr.Phillip
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Could I hear opinion of some battery experts on using MF01 Minis with these batteries:

https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/2DLOuvIs

I have no experience with Liitokalas 26650, I heard that these blue ones are good, but can they pump those 20 Amps this lights can handle in turbo?

KevinZA1988
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Why don’t you just go for this?

Vapcell 26650 battery 5500mah 20A Li-ion battery 3.7v Rechargeable vape cell for smoke E-CIG
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/ZGJy6JdbV

Acebeam L18, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Olight Baton 3, Olight Warrior Mini, Olight M2R Pro Warrior.

Most of them have been modded! =)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

Dr.Phillip
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KevinZA1988 wrote:
Why don’t you just go for this?

Vapcell 26650 battery 5500mah 20A Li-ion battery 3.7v Rechargeable vape cell for smoke E-CIG
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/ZGJy6JdbV

I have ordered some Shockli IMR 26650 from banggood and those should be the same cells you mentioned just rewrapped (from what I heard). But I have those 2019 Liitokala 26650 I bought for a different flashlight and wonder to what extent I can use them in this one and what I can get from them.

KevinZA1988
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Dr.Phillip wrote:
KevinZA1988 wrote:
Why don’t you just go for this?

Vapcell 26650 battery 5500mah 20A Li-ion battery 3.7v Rechargeable vape cell for smoke E-CIG
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/ZGJy6JdbV

I have ordered some Shockli IMR 26650 from banggood and those should be the same cells you mentioned just rewrapped (from what I heard). But I have those 2019 Liitokala 26650 I bought for a different flashlight and wonder to what extent I can use them in this one and what I can get from them.

I see… I had good experiences with the Liitokala black 26650 cells. Someone or somewhere on BLF should have some info on this.

Acebeam L18, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Olight Baton 3, Olight Warrior Mini, Olight M2R Pro Warrior.

Most of them have been modded! =)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

Future Lights
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Output on turbo woold be lower but should keep up longer. We need some test to really know. The battery would be worn down, capacity lowered, faster but with turbo being so short it might not be too bad.

The black Liitokalla would be an alterntive inbetween them.

The Vapcell look very expencive, it is just for one battery.

KevinZA1988
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Future Lights wrote:
Output on turbo woold be lower but should keep up longer. We need some test to really know. The battery would be worn down, capacity lowered, faster but with turbo being so short it might not be too bad. The Vapcell look very expencive, it is just for one battery.

I bought 2 for $25 so it’s not too bad… They are verrrrrry good cells.

Acebeam L18, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Olight Baton 3, Olight Warrior Mini, Olight M2R Pro Warrior.

Most of them have been modded! =)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

JasonWW
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Dr.Phillip wrote:
Could I hear opinion of some battery experts on using MF01 Minis with these batteries:

https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/2DLOuvIs

I have no experience with Liitokalas 26650, I heard that these blue ones are good, but can they pump those 20 Amps this lights can handle in turbo?


The 5100mah are junk. Typical unknown cells. Probably work okay, but have a lot of voltage sag. No one has tested these other than your common battery charger capacity tests which show that these cells vary a lot. It’s not a good sign. They may be using a variety of cheap 26650 cells under this wrapper.

Your probably thinking of the older blue 5000mah LiitoKala. Those where the good ones. They don’t make them any more. They switched to the black and gold which were also goid. Unfortunately, these are sometimes faked, so you have to get them from a reputable source. Due to these factors, it might be best to go with a different brand 26650 cell.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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Watermanchris
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I just picked up my Green MF01 Mini today and it’s awesome! It’s SST-20 5000K which is pretty nice but if I get another, it will be 4000K.

I love 26650 lights for the vehicles or in the house as opposed to multi-cell lights. They have a great balance of runtime and output. I was planning on getting a MF01S but I think I may get another one of these.

Flying Luminosity
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I had an unexpected delivery today, after Yodel tracking was just telling me “We will have your parcel soon” each time I checked.

Going to charge that 30T for a – no doubt blinding – dog walk tonight.

mortuus
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isnt 30t a bit overkill? better use a 40t or something longer runtimes.

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Flying Luminosity
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mortuus wrote:
isnt 30t a bit overkill? better use a 40t or something longer runtimes.

You’re probably right, the 40T was the one I was originally going to get, but I must have mixed them up when I ordered it. On the other hand, I only use a torch for about 20 minutes each day, on a modest setting, so I don’t need to recharge my batteries very often.

EDIT: After years of using them, your comment only just made me realise that the first two digits of Samsung’s Li-ion batteries describe the capacity! Facepalm

KARR
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Flying Luminosity wrote:
I had an unexpected delivery today, after Yodel tracking was just telling me “We will have your parcel soon” each time I checked.

Yodel have to be the worst delivery company i have ever come across. When i saw my order was at “Hatfield Terminal” i felt dread as I’m very familiar that it is their main warehouse. Apparently my item is in Birmingham at Sandwell. Will expect the usual “delivered to a safe place” meaning they threw it on the floor outside the house delivery. Sad

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KARR wrote:
Yodel have to be the worst delivery company i have ever come across.

Same here. I’m actually suprised that the delivery driver buzzed today – they usually just leave the parcel outside my door without even checking if anyone is in.

TheAuditor
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Yodel have been grouping my deliveries of late, which I suppose is efficient. No tracking of course and the online help is always busy. I have had parcels left behind the bins, and once, in the bin, and another time under my car. I know the drivers are under huge time pressure.

Bonum commune communitatis.

Yarp.

d_t_a
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ver_ivanz007 wrote:
ver_ivanz007 wrote:
d_t_a wrote:

Nice!

Are you able to take power consumption (current) measurements for the aux-LED? I’m wondering how high the “parasitic drain” of the aux-LEDs would be when at max brightness.

I will try to measure the parasitic drain later including the current consumption during turbo.

Here are my measurements:

All AUX LEDs at max brightness – 15 to 18mA – it means it will drain the a 5500mAh battery in 305 hours
- if I set the green at max brightness, the blue and purple LED will not turn on at low AUX mode. Green LED need to be adjusted down a bit for the blue and purple LED to light up at low mode.

Max Ramp tail cap current – 7-8 Amperes
Turbo tail cap current – 20 to 21 Amperes on a freshly charged Vapcell 26650 5500mAh battery. This is one of the highest tail cap measurement I have so far.

One thing I noticed is that the battery voltage indicator is off by 0.2 volts. When I placed a 4.2V fully charged battery, it only blinks out 4.0V. I also saw this on my sand and gray colored light. Do you guys also noticed this issue?

Thanks for the info re: configuration of the Aux-LEDs brightness.

Aux LEDs at 15-18mA = must have been quite bright to consume that much power. At what current did you finally configure your aux-LEDs to, to make them more “visible” than the default (I notice the aux-LED brightness are really quite dim, coming from the factory default (I measured 0.42mA with a DMM, I think this is already on the “High” setting).

I used a Lii-50A (black/gold) for testing which is not as good as a Shockli/Vapcell, and got around 7 Amps on Ramp Ceiling and around 19-20 Amps on Turbo (I think it could be higher since my copper wire might not be as thick as possible for amp meter measurement).

~~~~

Other things I noted:
- on battery insertion (in stepless ramping mode): this will be in 1×7135 regulated mode (NoPWM)
- in stepped ramping mode, default 7 brightness levels, only the 6th step is the regulated mode, which I’m measuring 2.24Amps (could be my amp meter not that calibrated anymore) — since this seems to be 6×7135 or 7×7135 regulated mode (NoPWM). (if 6×7135, that would have been close to 2.1Amps and 7×7135 would be 2.45Amps, but I checked with a “shine light through portable fan” method, and only the 6th step in the stepped ramp mode does not have PWM).

So there are 3 levels when there are NoPWM: – must be in stepless ramping mode: on battery insertion = NoPWM (this 1×7135 level is not present in the 7 steps of stepped ramping mode) ~ 0.32A – in stepped ramping mode: the 6th step is also NoPWM ~ 2.24A
- in Turbo mode: NoPWM ~ 20A

(I think my amp meter has a calibration problem, 1×7135 should be 0.35A but I only get 0.32A readings out of several other flashlights too when using 1×7135 level)

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d_t_a wrote:

- in stepped ramping mode, default 7 brightness levels, only the 6th step is the regulated mode, which I’m measuring 2.24Amps (could be my amp meter not that calibrated anymore) — since this seems to be 6×7135 or 7×7135 regulated mode (NoPWM). (if 6×7135, that would have been close to 2.1Amps and 7×7135 would be 2.45Amps, but I checked with a “shine light through portable fan” method, and only the 6th step in the stepped ramp mode does not have PWM).

So there are 3 levels when there are NoPWM: – must be in stepless ramping mode: on battery insertion = NoPWM (this 1×7135 level is not present in the 7 steps of stepped ramping mode) ~ 0.32A – in stepped ramping mode: the 6th step is also NoPWM ~ 2.24A
- in Turbo mode: NoPWM ~ 20A


I don’t think we have seen the driver, yet (have we?), were told it’s 3 channel. I assume it’s using 7135 chips. If so, what your calling no PWM is basically 100% PWM which is like a solid signal. So all 3 channels use PWM, it’s just not visible when any of the 3 channels are maxed out. You might already know this, I just wanted to clarify for other people.

Also, when channel 2 is active (maybe 6 chips?) remember that the single chip on channel 1 is also going at 100%. It’s quite possible Lexel used 0.320 regulator chips. This makes sense for your channel 1 amp reading and if channel 2 is 6 more chips (1+6=7×0.320=2.24). Maybe we figured it out?

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ver_ivanz007
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Hi d_t_a

My clamp meter at home that I used has a lowest range of 2A, my measurements might be a little high for the AUX LEDs at max brightness. I will take a look at this again when I am in the office where a I can use a Fluke DMM with a much lower range.

  • My current lights: Astrolux MF01 - Astrolux S43 - Astrolux FT03 - Convoy L6 - Nitecore MH20 - Nitecore TIP - Nitecore TUP - Convoy M3 - Convoy C8+ - Astrolux C8 - Astrolux MF01 Mini - Full Copper - Acebeam K30GT SBT90.2 - Massdrop tool AAA Copper and Brass - Nitecore Tip2
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d_t_a wrote:

Thanks for the info re: configuration of the Aux-LEDs brightness.

Aux LEDs at 15-18mA = must have been quite bright to consume that much power. At what current did you finally configure your aux-LEDs to, to make them more “visible” than the default (I notice the aux-LED brightness are really quite dim, coming from the factory default (I measured 0.42mA with a DMM, I think this is already on the “High” setting).

I used a Lii-50A (black/gold) for testing which is not as good as a Shockli/Vapcell, and got around 7 Amps on Ramp Ceiling and around 19-20 Amps on Turbo (I think it could be higher since my copper wire might not be as thick as possible for amp meter measurement).

~~~~

Other things I noted:
- on battery insertion (in stepless ramping mode): this will be in 1×7135 regulated mode (NoPWM)
- in stepped ramping mode, default 7 brightness levels, only the 6th step is the regulated mode, which I’m measuring 2.24Amps (could be my amp meter not that calibrated anymore) — since this seems to be 6×7135 or 7×7135 regulated mode (NoPWM). (if 6×7135, that would have been close to 2.1Amps and 7×7135 would be 2.45Amps, but I checked with a “shine light through portable fan” method, and only the 6th step in the stepped ramp mode does not have PWM).

So there are 3 levels when there are NoPWM: – must be in stepless ramping mode: on battery insertion = NoPWM (this 1×7135 level is not present in the 7 steps of stepped ramping mode) ~ 0.32A – in stepped ramping mode: the 6th step is also NoPWM ~ 2.24A
- in Turbo mode: NoPWM ~ 20A

(I think my amp meter has a calibration problem, 1×7135 should be 0.35A but I only get 0.32A readings out of several other flashlights too when using 1×7135 level)

Here is my latest reading from my company FLUKE 87V DMM (this is calibrated once a year).

AUX LEDs at MAX brightness – 7.3mA
AUX LEDs at MAX brightess except green (very low) – 5.33mA
AUX LEDs at okay brightness – 2.8mA
AUX LEDs at Low mode – 0.28mA

The results are much better because this meter can measure in uA and mA. At my current settings, 5.3mA, it will take 1000 hours before I fully drain my 5500mAh 26650 battery.

  • My current lights: Astrolux MF01 - Astrolux S43 - Astrolux FT03 - Convoy L6 - Nitecore MH20 - Nitecore TIP - Nitecore TUP - Convoy M3 - Convoy C8+ - Astrolux C8 - Astrolux MF01 Mini - Full Copper - Acebeam K30GT SBT90.2 - Massdrop tool AAA Copper and Brass - Nitecore Tip2
ver_ivanz007
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And here is the picture of the driver.

  • My current lights: Astrolux MF01 - Astrolux S43 - Astrolux FT03 - Convoy L6 - Nitecore MH20 - Nitecore TIP - Nitecore TUP - Convoy M3 - Convoy C8+ - Astrolux C8 - Astrolux MF01 Mini - Full Copper - Acebeam K30GT SBT90.2 - Massdrop tool AAA Copper and Brass - Nitecore Tip2
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ver_ivanz007 wrote:
And here is the picture of the driver.


That’s half of it. Looks like FET+6+1. Need to see the other side to make sure. There could be more 7135 chips on the other side as well as the MCU.
Looks like regular 7135 chips. They are usually available in 350 or 380 mA ratings. I wonder if they offer a 320 mA version. I’m not sure what that sense resistor R6 is for. You don’t typically see those on FET drivers. It might be tied to that chip above it. Maybe that chip is related to the charging circuit?

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ver_ivanz007
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I’ll check if that is easily removed so I can take a picture of the other half.

  • My current lights: Astrolux MF01 - Astrolux S43 - Astrolux FT03 - Convoy L6 - Nitecore MH20 - Nitecore TIP - Nitecore TUP - Convoy M3 - Convoy C8+ - Astrolux C8 - Astrolux MF01 Mini - Full Copper - Acebeam K30GT SBT90.2 - Massdrop tool AAA Copper and Brass - Nitecore Tip2
JasonWW
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ver_ivanz007 wrote:
I’ll check if that is easily removed so I can take a picture of the other half.

You would probably need to unsolder 5 or so wires. No big deal if you don’t want to do that. Eventually someone will pull the driver out and we can see the other side.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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ver_ivanz007
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Oh. That is a hassle. Might as well wait. Haha.

  • My current lights: Astrolux MF01 - Astrolux S43 - Astrolux FT03 - Convoy L6 - Nitecore MH20 - Nitecore TIP - Nitecore TUP - Convoy M3 - Convoy C8+ - Astrolux C8 - Astrolux MF01 Mini - Full Copper - Acebeam K30GT SBT90.2 - Massdrop tool AAA Copper and Brass - Nitecore Tip2
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kiriba-ru S2+ and S21a spacers are available in EU. PM me. A few details here

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