I haven’t seen one yet and TK’s pics do look like it’s a pcb material but Hank used aluminum in the M43, which I am quite familiar with. At any rate, bright light might glow a raw or bare pcb material (which is usually a dull green in color) to a low degree but dim aux lighting isn’t going to come through the fiberglass material. Even IF there were space on the MCPCB for such an LED to be placed… perhaps around the outer periphery? Don’t know, it’d be tight. Maybe small outlet holes could be put in the cover plate to allow something to show? Again, complex but doable and at a price I’m sure. (I don’t really care either way, not something I’d add and I may be prone to turn it off it were in the factory light)
As far as a clear one would go, assembly would be apt to scratch it up.
Some of my lights would strip themselves if I gave em a shiny brass pole, they’ve been bared so many times already.
FWIW, a buddy of mine has a D18 en-route and I will be putting Samsung emitters in it for him. The W6 5000K emitters are here already…. We’ll see how/where that goes. ..
At any rate, bright light might glow a raw or bare pcb material (which is usually a dull green in color) to a low degree but dim aux lighting isn’t going to come through the fiberglass material.
G10 comes in many colors and thicknesses, including clear. The one in the D18 looks pretty thin, could probably even see through.
This is the G10 I’m thinking of. I’ve worked with stuff that is even less green and more of an opaque white.
At any rate, bright light might glow a raw or bare pcb material (which is usually a dull green in color) to a low degree but dim aux lighting isn’t going to come through the fiberglass material.
G10 comes in many colors and thicknesses, including clear. The one in the D18 looks pretty thin, could probably even see through.
This is the G10 I’m thinking of. I’ve worked with stuff that is even less green and more of an opaque white.
That is thin G10, nice & opaque too….
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Thanks for that teacher that’s cleared that up , I thought it was probly a joke as I could clearly see through it ,tinterweb & forum talk can be a bit confusing at times.
Thanks for that teacher that’s cleared that up , I thought it was probly a joke as I could clearly see through it ,tinterweb & forum talk can be a bit confusing at times.
No problem my friend, glad to be of assistance.
Things certainly can be confusing at times… I agree.
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
The one in the D18 looks pretty thin, could probably even see through.
It lets light through about as well as a sheet of black paperboard. Which is to say… it doesn’t.
What I was trying to say is that the material I posted in the pic, in the same thickness as the spacer board in the D18, would probably be see through. As you can see in the pic I posted, the table is clearly visible through the thinner sheets.
Basically I put an extra Attiny85 in there, who's sole purpose is to drive a single WS2812B emitter.
It was originally supposed to look like this:
It was great because the positive and negative of the Attiny85 matched the WS2812B perfectly, according to the schematic, which was wrong. The Emitters poles were actually the opposite, so I had to flip or around and run the data line over the back. Much less elegant:
But it worked. I did clean this one up a bit more before installing it, but you get the idea.
The speed of the rainbow effect can be sped or slowed by setting parameters at compile time. There are other effects in the code I found, too.
I have no idea of the current draw, I suspect it is somewhat high, because the Attiny85 is running at 8mhz nonstop to drive the signal fast enough to control the WS2812B, but I don't have anything sensitive enough to measure it.
Was the schematic wrong or is the chip upside down, reversing the layout?
At any rate, neat idea… I fail to see the reason for it but still it’s out-of-the-box thinking…
The schematic was just wrong, the data in and out pins were in the right place, but the notch in the corner should’ve been positive but it was negative, and negative was positive.
I’m embarrassed to say it took me more than I couple minutes to figure it out. I thought I was damaging them when removing them from the strip I was harvesting the from.
Thanks, yeah I like it. I figured if I was only gonna have one single emitter, then I should do something fancy with it. There’s juuust enough room to get it all in there.
It’s not really relevant in FET light like this where all the minute details affect the number.
+1
Turbo output really depends on a lot of factors, some of which aren’t even part of the light. Basically just think of it as a really bright burst mode, where the actual brightness level doesn’t really matter. It’s like turning on about 10 to 20 common light bulbs all at once, and focusing the light into a beam. But it doesn’t really matter if it’s 10 or 12 or 17 or 20.
Looks like there is room at the edges to add 12 more small colored LEDs. Go for it!!!
Thanks! Lol I actually thought about doing a triple in the middle, but there’s less room than you’d think because each optic has a black holder that goes right to the top under the PCB faceplate thing.
I might try to put one in my D4 though, but I’d have to put the Attiny85 down in the driver space I think? I don’t know I haven’t looked at it.
I’d really like to know how much current is drawing first though
The aux LED question is the main reason why I showed that part of the light in so much detail.
… and also so I won’t have to open it up again to get details later.
I haven’t seen one yet and TK’s pics do look like it’s a pcb material but Hank used aluminum in the M43, which I am quite familiar with. At any rate, bright light might glow a raw or bare pcb material (which is usually a dull green in color) to a low degree but dim aux lighting isn’t going to come through the fiberglass material. Even IF there were space on the MCPCB for such an LED to be placed… perhaps around the outer periphery? Don’t know, it’d be tight. Maybe small outlet holes could be put in the cover plate to allow something to show? Again, complex but doable and at a price I’m sure. (I don’t really care either way, not something I’d add and I may be prone to turn it off it were in the factory light)
As far as a clear one would go, assembly would be apt to scratch it up.
Some of my lights would strip themselves if I gave em a shiny brass pole, they’ve been bared so many times already.
FWIW, a buddy of mine has a D18 en-route and I will be putting Samsung emitters in it for him. The W6 5000K emitters are here already….
We’ll see how/where that goes. ..
G10 comes in many colors and thicknesses, including clear. The one in the D18 looks pretty thin, could probably even see through.
This is the G10 I’m thinking of. I’ve worked with stuff that is even less green and more of an opaque white.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
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It lets light through about as well as a sheet of black paperboard. Which is to say… it doesn’t.
Is that an exaggeration or is it a joke?
I’m guessing neither. Just the truth… it does not let light through.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
It must do because I can see the table surface through it.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Thanks for that teacher
Things certainly can be confusing at times… I agree.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
What I was trying to say is that the material I posted in the pic, in the same thickness as the spacer board in the D18, would probably be see through. As you can see in the pic I posted, the table is clearly visible through the thinner sheets.
So, uh.. I may have went ahead and went with the HAL 9000 mod.. only RGB
Edit: here's a YouTube link of it in action.
Basically I put an extra Attiny85 in there, who's sole purpose is to drive a single WS2812B emitter.
It was originally supposed to look like this:
It was great because the positive and negative of the Attiny85 matched the WS2812B perfectly, according to the schematic, which was wrong. The Emitters poles were actually the opposite, so I had to flip or around and run the data line over the back. Much less elegant:
But it worked. I did clean this one up a bit more before installing it, but you get the idea.
The speed of the rainbow effect can be sped or slowed by setting parameters at compile time. There are other effects in the code I found, too.
I have no idea of the current draw, I suspect it is somewhat high, because the Attiny85 is running at 8mhz nonstop to drive the signal fast enough to control the WS2812B, but I don't have anything sensitive enough to measure it.
Very nice!
Was the schematic wrong or is the chip upside down, reversing the layout?
At any rate, neat idea… I fail to see the reason for it but still it’s out-of-the-box thinking…
The schematic was just wrong, the data in and out pins were in the right place, but the notch in the corner should’ve been positive but it was negative, and negative was positive.
I’m embarrassed to say it took me more than I couple minutes to figure it out. I thought I was damaging them when removing them from the strip I was harvesting the from.
Thanks, yeah I like it. I figured if I was only gonna have one single emitter, then I should do something fancy with it. There’s juuust enough room to get it all in there.
Quite happy with my SST20 3000K. Loving the size and construction.
It’s not too yellow in tint even at 1×7135 and gets better on higher modes when it warms up. Turbo is pretty much perfect.
What is the max Lumens you measured with yours?
The Eneloop 2005-2021 info thread
I haven’t measured the lumens. My eyes tell me there’s plenty of them though.
If you ever want to measure.. I'm curious to your numbers
The Eneloop 2005-2021 info thread
It’s not really relevant in FET light like this where all the minute details affect the number.
Well, that is your personal opinion, which is fine. I was just asking.
The Eneloop 2005-2021 info thread
Once I get D18, you will know some measurement data. I am waiting for the SST-20 4000K version.
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Click on: Q8, D4, D4S, D18, K1, FW3A, SDmini, Mini AAA, TIP, M43, H1, H03, TC20, TN40S, TN42, V6, H600Fw, SC600w, SC64w
+1
Turbo output really depends on a lot of factors, some of which aren’t even part of the light. Basically just think of it as a really bright burst mode, where the actual brightness level doesn’t really matter. It’s like turning on about 10 to 20 common light bulbs all at once, and focusing the light into a beam. But it doesn’t really matter if it’s 10 or 12 or 17 or 20.
It could matter… if’n ya was about to go fishing 20 would bring in more bugs.
But yeah, mostly that’s true. lol
Very nice HAL 9000 mod!
Looks like there is room at the edges to add 12 more small colored LEDs. Go for it!!!
Thanks! Lol I actually thought about doing a triple in the middle, but there’s less room than you’d think because each optic has a black holder that goes right to the top under the PCB faceplate thing.
I might try to put one in my D4 though, but I’d have to put the Attiny85 down in the driver space I think? I don’t know I haven’t looked at it.
I’d really like to know how much current is drawing first though
Thanks.. mine is 4000K as well!
The Eneloop 2005-2021 info thread
Have I mentioned lately that I love Anduril?
This is only 8 lights that have Anduril, I think I have 13, who’s counting?
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