Sofirn SP10 Pro (AA/14500/Andúril 2) - now available!

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Correllux
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Unheard wrote:
zumlin wrote:
Correllux wrote:
So is the flash-to-off quirk a widespread issue or not? I have yet to see it on mine and I’ve been using it nearly every evening since I got it.

Try turning it off from level 2 out of 7, stepped ramp, advanced mode with a 14500 inside. The stepping down before off bug was reproducible that way, but I have only seen the flash once or twice before I fixed it with a firmware update.


Ah, a 14500 is needed to reproduce it? That’s why I don’t see it.

I’m ramped and 14500 only. Interesting. I’ll toy with that and see if I can make it happen. Hopefully it doesn’t awake a sleeping dragon. lol

mattlward
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One other change this FW makes, it enables the 3C unlock to off. That alone was worth it to me to learn the new process.

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

Scientist
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I can always see the flash at low levels. Haven’t updated the software yet.

Please illuminate responsibly
Part time fragmented conciousness technician

UV triple using Sofirn C8F
395nm High Power LED in Sofirn SC31b

zumlin
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Unheard wrote:
zumlin wrote:
Correllux wrote:
So is the flash-to-off quirk a widespread issue or not? I have yet to see it on mine and I’ve been using it nearly every evening since I got it.

Try turning it off from level 2 out of 7, stepped ramp, advanced mode with a 14500 inside. The stepping down before off bug was reproducible that way, but I have only seen the flash once or twice before I fixed it with a firmware update.


Ah, a 14500 is needed to reproduce it? That’s why I don’t see it.

I was also able to reproduce it with a NiMH before. It was at a different mid-lowish level but I can’t tell you exactly which now.

Kakapo
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I also have the flashing issue on mine.

Correllux
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Well…there it is! Happened on a fresh 14500 as well as NiMH. In stepped mode I could only get it to happen on that low 2nd step…everything else was normal. Playing with quick successive power cycles, the behavior varied a lot in both delay and duration…and one time I got the super bright flash. Man that’s an irritating surprise when you’re in a low lumen state of mind! lol. With the light on that second step and then switching to ramping, it did the same thing. Bumped it up the ramp as little/quickly as I could and the next increment behaved the same, the one after that was intermittent. I also noticed a little bit of flutter on the down ramp in that lighting range…don’t see it on the up ramp, though. Weird.

I normally use this light at levels higher than this range-of-quirkiness so I don’t think I’ll bother flashing the firmware although I still want to learn that sometime soon.

Limsup
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Here are some white wall beam shots of SP10 compared with my other lights. White balance was manually set at 5000K. CIE x and y numbers are from Opple Light Master and duv are calculated online

Figure 1. Sofirn SP10 Pro LH351D 5000K vs BLF-348 Nichia 219c 5000K

Figure 2. Sofirn SP10 Pro LH351D 5000K vs Noctigon KR4 Nichia E21A 5000K

The measurements are as follows:
Sofirn SP10 Pro LH351D 5000K
CIE x=0.3546 y=0.3646
duv=0.0028

BLF-348 Nichia 219c 5000K
CIE x=0.3483 y=0.3463
duv=-0.0040

Noctigon KR4 Nichia E21A 5000K
CIE x=0.3474 y=0.3417
duv=-0.0060

I prefer lights with CCT of 5000K. This is my first time with LH351D. I am a little disappointed with its tint. Calculated duv appears to be fine, but when I shine the light on my skin, my skin appears to be show too much yellow and green.

Unheard
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Jep, sun on hand (12:30pm right now) – nice. LH351D 5000K on hand – Sick

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

jon_slider
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Limsup wrote:
Calculated duv appears to be fine, but when I shine the light on my skin, my skin appears to be show too much yellow and green.
I agree, and I think it is because the CRI R9 is not very high..

Excellent compariso photos, and very helpful to have some Opple DUV values for reference.

fwiw, learning to swap LEDs is a game changer. Here is an SP10 Pro album with DUV values: https://imgur.com/a/zzGI8gq and photos of the modding sequence.

here is a summary of the DUV changes:
.

fwiw, the 519a shows really good skin tones, and the High R9 really makes reds Pop, even when the tint is above the BBL.. much better than LH351d, which makes weak reds, and as you noted, poor skin tones.

mattlward
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I am really trying to decide if I am going with the 573 de-domed or a 453 dome on. Where does the 573 de-domed come in with it’s CCT?

I just can’t stand the green LH351D in mine, even with an 802 filter it is still not good.

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

jon_slider
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mattlward wrote:
Where does the 573 de-domed come in with it’s CCT?

4000-4100K on my Opple

left to right domed and dedomed, three 519a pairs:

fwiw, the stock 5000K LH351d was 4700K, duv 0.0047
.

mattlward
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Thanks for that data… I have 573’s, 503’s and 453’s on hand, does not seem to be a linear change looking at the results of your 573 dropping 1700k and the 453 only dropped 1100k. So, I am guessing that the 503 will drop to slightly below 4000-3800k. I think I will go a de-domed 573.

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

jon_slider
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mattlward wrote:
I think I will go a de-domed 573.
I hope you like it, I think its very nice.
Limsup
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jon_slider wrote:
fwiw, learning to swap LEDs is a game changer. Here is an SP10 Pro album with DUV values: https://imgur.com/a/zzGI8gq and photos of the modding sequence. … fwiw, the 519a shows really good skin tones, and the High R9 really makes reds Pop, even when the tint is above the BBL.. much better than LH351d, which makes weak reds, and as you noted, poor skin tones.

Thanks for the info. I think the step by step guide will be quite helpful for people with proper skills and equipment. I will definitely investigate it when I am ready for modding.

Green in LH351D doesn’t bother me in high output (more than 200 lumens), but when used in low output I notice it more. This is a problem for me because I use low output most of time.

Among the 5000K LEDs I have, E21A is my favorite so far. It has high R9, therefore reds standout. However, it is a little more than I like. I also own 219B in 4500K, but I think it has a little too much pink. I don’t have proper tools to measure the colors, but when I can definitely notice it when I compare the light with natural sunlight. I usually shine the light on my palm during the day and see the change in tint.

I wonder how 519A compares with my current favorite. I will wait for Hank or Simon to make decent flashlights as I don’t have tools and enough time to invest in modding flashlight at the moment. By the way, I am also interested in trying out B35AM.

iamlucky13
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mattlward wrote:
Thanks for that data… I have 573’s, 503’s and 453’s on hand, does not seem to be a linear change looking at the results of your 573 dropping 1700k and the 453 only dropped 1100k. So, I am guessing that the 503 will drop to slightly below 4000-3800k. I think I will go a de-domed 573.

A bit of info here, including a really nice chart thefreeman made of his dome-on and dedomed measurements, and a brief followup comment about the fact that the change seems non-linear if you’re looking at color temperature:

https://budgetlightforum.com/node/75259?page=12

Pip
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I changed out the led in mine for a sst-20 deep red and it works perfectly on AA batteries, wouldn’t try a 14500 though as the forward voltage on the deep red led is too low for direct drive.

The lowest setting on the SP10 pro is actually lower than the lowest setting on the C01R.

jon_slider
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Pip wrote:
I changed out the led in mine for a sst-20 deep red and it works perfectly on AA batteries… The lowest setting on the SP10 pro is actually lower than the lowest setting on the C01R.
great to hear the red works well w the ramping UI..

Ive been thinking a Red Light w Anduril would make a good camping light.
Enjoy your mod Wink

Pip
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The bezel on mine was glued, but wasn’t that hard to break free. Just used rubber wrapped around the light to get a better grip and twisted it off. Nothing like a fenix light I tried to get apart once… the deep red sst-20 reflowed really well on the mcpcb even though the footprint isn’t quite the same. Even centered itself pretty good.

jon_slider
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Pip wrote:
Tthe deep red sst-20 reflowed really well on the mcpcb even though the footprint isn’t quite the same.
congrats on fitting a non 3535 LED onto a 3535 mcpcb

fwiw, the XP-E2 Red and the XP-G3 Red, use normal 3535 solder pads

Ive used 620nm, 660nm, and 730nm.. I like the 660nm best, the 620nm is brighter, but more orange.. the 730nm is deeper red, but has even lower visible output than 660nm…

mattlward
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Just installed a de-domed 519A sm573 in my SP10 Pro. Ugly, crappy green is way gone! It came out rosier than I really expected, almost more than I wanted and definitely more than I expected given that I started with 5700k! This light is rapidly becoming a favorite and will earn a spot in the EDC rotation! The final CCT came out right around 4300k and an Ra of around 98 according to my Opple (I know, highly scientific). Do not have a way to measure lumens, but it is very comparable to the LH351D with an 802 gel. The stock heat paste was barely there and obviously not working well. She now warms up very quickly. I just can’t put it down now… I am going to have to try a domed sm453 next!

But, be aware if you plan an emitter swap… the standard Noctigon is to thick and the stock MCPCB kinda sucks. The solder pads for the wires are very small on the stock one. Unfortunately I installed the emitter on the Noctigon and had to then move it to the stock MCPCB and still did not manage to kill the 519A! For those who are not aware, I have been having serious eye problems and unfortunately this is likely about the most complex type of mod I can now do and really will never be building another driver again. I miss serious mods, but have found someone who can and will help me with triples and quads with aux boards and such. Really sucks, I loved doing mods for myself and others.

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

jon_slider
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mattlward wrote:
It came out rosier than I really expected… This light is rapidly becoming a favorite and will earn a spot in the EDC rotation!

Do not have a way to measure lumens, but it is very comparable to the LH351D with an 802 gel.

congrats! I have the same impressed reaction to my dedomed 519a mods..

fwiw, the 802 gel causes 25% transmission loss.. this is very severe.. glad you found a better option

my dedomed 519a 5700k is only 10% less bright than the LH351d that was in my SC21 Pro.

Sorry to hear your aging eyes are creating modding challenges for you.. I have age related vision challenges too.. Ive been able to mod only because I use a Jewelers Magnifying Visor

but my mods are just LED reflows, no driver building.. glad you were able to do what you did, when you could, to help self and others..

enjoy your new Light and LED! Beer

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Matt if you are around Chicago, and would like to mod together let me know! How do you design a driver? I thought it was done in CAD. What kind of vision problems are you having? Is it treatable? Some facinating red light therapy threads on here that could be your next project, I heard it can help with vision. I think most people are using 670nm LEDs so "normal" ones.

jon_slider
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fwiw, there seem to be a few Black SP10 Pro available

Im not sure of the actual availability, since the web text says preorder, but it also says 46 in stock.

mattlward
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Lick wrote:

Matt if you are around Chicago, and would like to mod together let me know! How do you design a driver? I thought it was done in CAD. What kind of vision problems are you having? Is it treatable? Some facinating red light therapy threads on here that could be your next project, I heard it can help with vision. I think most people are using 670nm LEDs so “normal” ones.

So I had rona in January of 2020, very bad case before it was really known. 102.5 to 103.4 fever for over a week. Several months later my sugar, BP and other things spiked very hard and very high. Almost instantly ended up with diabetic retinopathy. It is being treated, level are all great again with no meds, but eyes are screwed. Bout all I can do now with magnifiers are emitter swaps and they are difficult at best. A1C went from 5.9 to 13.1 in a matter of weeks, back to 6.1 now. BP spiked to 220/175 at the same time, now 128/57.

I built/ relowed many of my drivers, only designed a couple for really odd hosts. We have many guys designing great drivers, but gotta get the boards on Osh Park, reflow and code them up.

Would love to mod with a friend, but right now work is nuts, my freshman daughter is way deep in sports and I am trying to retire from my University. Yup, life is nuts!

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

longuylander
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mattlward, if you don’t mind me asking, how old are you? I’m 43 right now. I believe I may have had Covid in December of ’19 (same symptoms as you, and was tested for flu, which it wasn’t), and know I had it in January of ’21. My blood pressure is fine, but my A1C spiked from 5.3 to 10 in six months. I’m currently on meds for diabetes – have been for three weeks, with a followup appointment three weeks from now to check again.

Also, since the summer, I had to start wearing reading glasses. My near vision is abysmal now. On some days I can read my watch if I hold it a foot from my face, but most days I can’t see it clearly at any distance (without glasses).

Diabetes does run in my family, and vision does get worse with age, but perhaps there’s some causation from covid… Could it be coincidence or do you have some other proof it was related?

mattlward
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Other than no history and my doc has seen this happer with a few severe cases of the original rona. That is about it. Please get your eyes checked by an opthomologist, not optometrist. Nothing close or magnified is sharp anymore for me. Really sucks!

BTW, forgot to answer… I am 57 this fall.

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

sunsethiker
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A green version of this light is going to be my holy grail. I ordered a green version on Ali but they shipped a black as the green where out is stock. Went to Sofirnlight and they were taking preorders for green but I neglected to preorder one and now the preorder is showing sold out.

Verodin
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The drivers are available again at sofirnlight.com


Firelight2
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I’m of mixed minds about the driver.

  • It’s really nice having Anduril in a driver for this type of light.
  • Having it able to run 14500 and AA is nice … but not crucial for how I use my lights.
  • The low max output is irritating. Just 3 amps? I can really see the difference when I compare it side-by-side with an FWAA, especially after modding my SP10 Pro to use an FWAA optic, star and the same emitters.
  • If I had to choose, I’d rather have higher max output over 1.5v support.

sunsethiker
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What are the possibilities of getting Sofirn to put the same lighted switch from SC21 Pro into the SP10 Pro. The ability to have and control a switch light is a great feature.

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