Sofirn SP10 Pro (AA/14500/Andúril 2) - now available!

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daogiahieu
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Is there any bug with the Andúril 2 at the moment?

jon_slider
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daogiahieu wrote:
Is there any bug with the Andúril 2 at the moment?
No.

the first run had a dim step before turning off. (and No blink at top of ramp, which made me happy)

the present run has the dim step eliminated. (and Yes blink at top of ramp, which is a feature, that bugs me, but maybe not you)

story
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What’s the LVP on AA? Is it not necessary because boost will cut off at 0.9v anyway?

gchart
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story wrote:
What’s the LVP on AA? Is it not necessary because boost will cut off at 0.9v anyway?

There is LVP on AA as a safety measure in case the boost regulator is still functioning.

Voltages over 2.1V register as a Li-Ion and use the normal 2.8V LVP. Under that 2.1V and the LVP switches to 0.7V for AA.

Tater Tot
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jon_slider wrote:
Received SP10 Pro

it arrived in Simple mode with a 0.4 lumen floor, 20 lumen 10 minute hybrid memory and 150/150 ceiling.

Advanced has a 0.01 floor (very impressed!), same 20 lumen 10 minute hybrid memory and 150/150 ceiling.

Unfortunately, the new firmware enabled the blink at top of Ramp. I hate unrequested blinkies! I wish it could be turned off with a user setting. (and NOT require a ReWrite of the Hex and ReFlash of Anduril)

I changed the ceilings to 120/150 = about 250 lumens on LiIon and about 140 lumens on AA Eneloop.

Confirmed Thermal Calibration is correct by default.

Still very impressed that the SP10 Pro driver works perfectly with AA.

How old is the firmware on the light?

daogiahieu
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Can anyone tell me what kind of thread Sofirns sp10 pro have? square cut thread or diamond cut thread?

daogiahieu
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jon_slider wrote:
daogiahieu wrote:
Is there any bug with the Andúril 2 at the moment?
No.

the first run had a dim step before turning off. (and No blink at top of ramp, which made me happy)

the present run has the dim step eliminated. (and Yes blink at top of ramp, which is a feature, that bugs me, but maybe not you)


Is the present (fixed bug) SP10 pro sell on lazada or shopee?
Any know about this? i don’t want to buy the first run has bug.
Firelight2
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daogiahieu wrote:
Can anyone tell me what kind of thread Sofirns sp10 pro have? square cut thread or diamond cut thread?

Diamond cut

jon_slider
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Tater Tot wrote:
How old is the firmware on the light?
did you read post 1935?

daogiahieu wrote:
Is the present (fixed bug) SP10 pro sell on lazada or shopee?
you will have to buy to find out.

If the light has a blink at top of ramp, it is the NoBug version

Kwispelhond
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I finally got mine in the second try (first one was lost in shipping). Was also surprised by the blink at max but it doesn’t bother me that much. Simple mode gives a workable low but I like to have lower settings so advanced mode it will be. It’s actually one of my biggest AA-lights but I’ll edc it a while, does need a better clip thou so looked in the lights-drawer and found the one from the Utorch UT01 best fitting so will use that one for a while.

daogiahieu
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Firelight2 wrote:
daogiahieu wrote:
Can anyone tell me what kind of thread Sofirns sp10 pro have? square cut thread or diamond cut thread?

Diamond cut


Thank you,
i read the review in sofirn sp10 ver 3 here:https://zeroair.org/2021/11/30/sofirn-sp10-v3-flashlight-review/
He said the sp10 ver 3 have square cut, so it is better finish than the pro version, i think.

jon_slider wrote:
Tater Tot wrote:
How old is the firmware on the light?
did you read post 1935?

daogiahieu wrote:
Is the present (fixed bug) SP10 pro sell on lazada or shopee?
you will have to buy to find out.

If the light has a blink at top of ramp, it is the NoBug version


Thank you
Garageboy
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Do these work with flat or button top protected batteries?

I’m guessing these use high frequency pwm?

SammysHP
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You need button top batteries because of the mechanical reverse voltage protection. Not sure if protected batteries would fit.

Kwispelhond
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Tried my protected Eagletac’s, they fit and work fine so it seems any buttontop will do. Btw: you’ll never find a 14500 for the price of ordering one in the light and that one will fit.

Garageboy
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Appreciate it. I have some keeppowers already and no light. Thanks

Firelight2
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daogiahieu wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
daogiahieu wrote:
Can anyone tell me what kind of thread Sofirns sp10 pro have? square cut thread or diamond cut thread?

Diamond cut


Thank you,
i read the review in sofirn sp10 ver 3 here:https://zeroair.org/2021/11/30/sofirn-sp10-v3-flashlight-review/
He said the sp10 ver 3 have square cut, so it is better finish than the pro version, i think.

I have both lights and just looked at the threads side-by-side.

Both lights use diamond-cut standard threads. There are no square cut threads in either light.

Also, the hosts (ie the aluminum parts: head, bezel, body tube, and tailcap) are 100% identical. All parts including the threads are interchangeable between the two lights. This is not surprising since the SP10Pro is just an SP10v3 with a different driver and different name stenciled on the anodizing.

daogiahieu
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Firelight2 wrote:
daogiahieu wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
daogiahieu wrote:
Can anyone tell me what kind of thread Sofirns sp10 pro have? square cut thread or diamond cut thread?

Diamond cut


Thank you,
i read the review in sofirn sp10 ver 3 here:https://zeroair.org/2021/11/30/sofirn-sp10-v3-flashlight-review/
He said the sp10 ver 3 have square cut, so it is better finish than the pro version, i think.

I have both lights and just looked at the threads side-by-side.

Both lights use diamond-cut standard threads. There are no square cut threads in either light.

Also, the hosts (ie the aluminum parts: head, bezel, body tube, and tailcap) are 100% identical. All parts including the threads are interchangeable between the two lights. This is not surprising since the SP10Pro is just an SP10v3 with a different driver and different name stenciled on the anodizing.


Thank you so much for such detail information Love
Limsup
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The threads on SP10 are what many call square cut.

To be precise, I don’t think they are actually square cut. It seems to be trapezoidal thread. Regardless, it is not triangular cut threads you see in many cheaply machined lights.

Edit: I cleaned the lube off and looked at it more closely. I think the threads of SP10 Pro are indeed square cut threads.

Firelight2
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I stand corrected. I thought they were triangle-cut threads, but I didn’t look close enough. They’re actually very small square-cut threads.

In any event, both the SP10v3 and SP10 Pro have the same threads.

daogiahieu
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Firelight2 Limsup;
Thank you guys, that picture help to see very clearly.

Alen
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I would buy this light with Nichia 519A installed and without any type of blink on the ramp. Hope this will be correct soon

Correllux
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daogiahieu wrote:
Firelight2 Limsup; Thank you guys, that picture help to see very clearly.

These are not square cut threads – photos above are not sufficient to really tell, though. They are trapezoidal threads with the crests maybe a little flatter/wider than some. Not all that different than what’s on the Convoy T2/T3 and many other lights.

It can be tricky to see these clearly sometimes especially if they are shiny from grease or have direct light on them. Mildly backlit against a light background and with a low power magnifier you can clearly see that they are not true square cut at all. But that’s fine…they’re well machined and finished, feel great and work very smoothly, cap goes back on effortlessly, which is what’s important.

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At least the thread’s fell like there gonna last on the sp10pro. A sp21pro that I bought, only catches on the last turn.

Looking to buy used Reylight Pineapple? PM Me

jon_slider
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Deluminator wrote:
A sp21pro that I bought, only catches on the last turn.
With the stock 33.9mm long battery, my SC21 Pro has more than just the last turn.

Are you maybe using a longer battery?

Correllux
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Correllux wrote:
Correllux wrote:
SammysHP wrote:
Correllux wrote:
Supreme, do you have a multimeter? Most of them have a DC 10A range these days. That’s all ya need for simple stuff like this.
You can’t measure the current with a multimeter. It adds resistance and the current will be much lower than without. If you measure 1.5 A with your multimeter, it might be 2.5 A or more without it. Always use a clamp meter and thick wire to get realistic results.

True, burden inside and quality of leads, but depends on the meter. At low amps the meter I’ve got seems to do just fine. Usually over 2A or so I will switch to the clamp but thus far they have been very close to each other at lower amps. I don’t know about cheaper meters on the market in that regard. I don’t write this stuff down but I don’t think I was ever close to an entire full amp off between instruments when compared…seems like it was a couple tenths or less depending. I’ll do both when I get the H10s just for kicks.

Well my H10 cells are going to be delayed, so I compared measurements with my meter and the Uni-T 210E clamp on an L10 cell. Had to look up my burden voltage on the meter and it’s not bad, but I was pleased to discover that I can force the range (instead of auto-ranging) and drop the burden to an almost negligible level (which is only one part of the equation of course). Theoretically it should give me about .04V per amp, so we’re looking at about a tenth of a volt loss, perhaps less since this is at the bottom of that range/shunt. On turbo/top of ramp on that cell I got about 2.1A with the meter (using auto-range where the burden is higher it gave me about 1.94A this time, different cell than before). With the clamp and solid 12ga copper I got about 2.3A, sometimes 2.4A if I could press harder against the tube for better contact. Using 10ga and 8ga fine stranded wire didn’t improve anything, plus those were difficult to apply in such a small area with a very thin tube wall. So…not a huge difference, but not insignificant either…but this is still tail cap measuring anyway. I’m good with it. Looking forward to see what the H10 delivers and if it’s appreciably more. This does make me want to revisit some lights and remeasure them…and compare at the emitter, too. And doing the math, it’s clear that the burden voltage is a bigger problem than I first realized when it comes to finer work with lower voltage power supplies (not flashlights so much). Thanks for the check and inspiration to experiment more.

Forgot to post back about the H10 cells. Not getting much more from them but the one of the four gives a little more oomph. With the clamp I got a max of 2.5A and that one cell gave 2.6A, if the meter can be trusted there.

Also received the green magnetic tailcap. Nicely done, magnet feels on the weaker side, probably just N35. It has a larger/wider spring in there compared to the stock eared tail cap. I tried to remove the magnet with a long acetone soak and couldn’t get it to budge so I’ll likely break it out..have some N52 1/2”×3/32” coming in the mail which should add a couple pounds of pull or more.

shirnask
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Correllux wrote:
daogiahieu wrote:
Firelight2 Limsup; Thank you guys, that picture help to see very clearly.

These are not square cut threads – photos above are not sufficient to really tell, though. They are trapezoidal threads with the crests maybe a little flatter/wider than some. Not all that different than what’s on the Convoy T2/T3 and many other lights.

It can be tricky to see these clearly sometimes especially if they are shiny from grease or have direct light on them. Mildly backlit against a light background and with a low power magnifier you can clearly see that they are not true square cut at all. But that’s fine…they’re well machined and finished, feel great and work very smoothly, cap goes back on effortlessly, which is what’s important.

Well, this is the best picture I can get with my old busted not so tough camera, but I still can’t really see these as trapezoidal threads…..

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The threads are called “Acme” the design is stronger than std v-cut threads. Kudos to Sofirn for using an upgraded thread. Now, hopefully they’ll correct that dam blink at the top!

jon_slider
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Kona G wrote:
that dam blink at the top!
I feel the same way.

Blinking during Ramping is an Anduril “feature”, not specific to the SP10 Pro.

My FWAA has the same feature, and it really Bugs Me. I prefer my TS10 and SC21 Pro, because they do NOT blink during ramping.

imo ALL blinkies should be Optional.
Right now there is No Option for a user to Select to turn off Blinking during Ramping.

Correllux
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Hmm. Shirnask’s pic on the red light has threads that look slightly different from my green SP10 Pro…closer to Acme (which is not a true square cut…better in some ways, at least from a machining standpoint) but they do not look quite the same as the US made Acme threads I have on hand to compare with, for whatever that’s worth. Very similar to what’s on the Convoy M1, WildTrail WT3M, Wurkkos FC11, Sofirn IF22/22A, and most Rofis lights. Wonder if they changed things up, perhaps different machines or locations. At any rate…well done threads, one of the few that are a pleasure to use with good feel and fit and not too much spring pressure to overcome when you start it on.

jon_slider
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I have finally succeeded in learning how to reflash my SP10 Pro

gchart wrote:

  1. Download
thank you for all your help

I flashed that file, and like the 04-14 version from Sofirn, it has a Blink at top of ramp

is there a Hex file with NO Blink at top of ramp?

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