pennzy wrote:

Super glue usually does not stick well to rubber. Goop works well with both plastic and rubber.

Use Plastic Super glue. Your local hardware store probably has it.

The package comes with the tube of glue and a pen. You wipe the pen over both surfaces to be glued, wait 1 minute, then apply the glue.

It makes super glue stick extremely well to rubber.

Firelight2 wrote:

pennzy wrote:

Super glue usually does not stick well to rubber. Goop works well with both plastic and rubber.

Use Plastic Super glue. Your local hardware store probably has it.

The package comes with the tube of glue and a pen. You wipe the pen over both surfaces to be glued, wait 1 minute, then apply the glue.

It makes super glue stick extremely well to rubber.

After a few hundred cycles, it seems my bottle cap’s plastic is too soft. It’s flattened out. I need some harder plastic.

delusional wrote:

After a few hundred cycles, it seems my bottle cap’s plastic is too soft. It’s flattened out. I need some harder plastic.

The advantage of epoxy putty is you can easily shape it to exactly the shape you want. And it cures hard.

delusional wrote:
What’s a nubbin? It’s not much.
It’s a little cylinder of plastic, shown on the left here:

Picture credit to JasonWW

The nubbin fits into the center ring of the larger piece of rubber, and they both go into the FW3A’s switch mechanism.
The Switch of an FW3A will not work without the nubbin.

______________________________________

When you twist off the tailcap of an FW3A, the switch mechanism falls apart.
They were saying something about glueing the switch, but it didn’t happen, might happen in the future, who knows?
In the meantime, the nubbin is very easy to lose. I opened my tailcap once with no problem, but on the second time I lost my nubbin.
I didn’t even know there was “nubbin to lose.” So I wasn’t really watching for it. Now I need a new nubbin.

_______________________________________

It took me about three minutes to make a new nubbin.
I took out one security bit, marked CR-V4, from a set.
You can see it’s got an outer rim and a cup in the middle. This is designed for “security” screws.

Next I hammered the bit through a plastic drink bottle cap. See the left hole? This did not work because my nubbin got stuck inside the cup of the bit. I damaged the nubbin prying it out.
On the second attempt I stopped a little short, leaving a bit of plastic remaining around the outer ring, and the nubbin was still attached to the cap. I cut the nubbin from the cap with a knife.
See the nubbin on the right, still attached?

_________________________________________

And finally, you can see my new nubbin, in it’s new home, ready to reinstall in my FW3A.
It seems to work really well. …. at least it’s been holding up very well for a few hours.
You also see the drill bit on top, and on the left, the nubbin that got damaged.

I had a half dozen more bad puns ready to go, but decided it’s better if I don’t.
If others would like to join in, there’s nubbin stopping you.
…
@ delusional … If you want to resize your pics I’ll delete this.

Why not just use wood , find a bit of dowel of the right diameter then cut it to length.

Nev wrote:

Why not just use wood , find a bit of dowel of the right diameter then cut it to length.

Firelight2 wrote:

delusional wrote:

After a few hundred cycles, it seems my bottle cap’s plastic is too soft. It’s flattened out. I need some harder plastic.

Maybe try epoxy putty from your local hardware store or hobby shop.

The advantage of epoxy putty is you can easily shape it to exactly the shape you want. And it cures hard.

https://www.amazon.com/Hercules-25515-PRO-POXY-Epoxy-4oz/dp/B000BQLSXQ

Here’s a FAQ copied from the main FW3A thread:

Shadowcactus wrote:

I’m having a slight issue with my light and I can’t seem to figure it out. For some reason, while I’m ramping up in the smooth ramp mode, sometimes it will just abruptly stop and shut completely off. Anyone got any ideas what I’m doing wrong?

That’s the main symptom of a switch tube contact issue. I haven’t seen it happen on my production sample, but I know the issue well from seeing it on earlier prototypes.

Loosen the tail a bit, loosen the head, then tighten the tail as much as you can, then tighten the head. The issue should go away.

If the issue returns, loosen the head, tighten the tail again as much as you can, then tighten the head. Try to keep the tail as tight as possible. And always tighten it tail-first.

would be a good idea if the thread owner can add the "did you already try (to switch it off and on again)" information in the OP

ie

1. unscrew the head
2. do you see the positive end of the cell? (which can be max. 67mm)
3. measure the cell voltage (must be above 3.5V)
4. watch this video to learn how the tailcap is assembled : https://youtu.be/D1dfPeO07bM
5. unscrew and disassemble your tailcap
6. Inspect every part for damage (contact areas are clean? ) 
7. assemble and tighten the tailcap first!
8. insert the cell 
9. mount the head
10. if it's still dead/funny follow ToyKeepers steps to troubleshoot the firmware...

M4D M4X wrote:

would be a good idea if the thread owner can add the “did you already try (to switch it off and on again)” information in the OP

I was kinda hoping someone would volunteer to collect the useful info into one post, so it can be linked from the OP.

ToyKeeper wrote:

M4D M4X wrote:

would be a good idea if the thread owner can add the “did you already try (to switch it off and on again)” information in the OP

I was kinda hoping someone would volunteer to collect the useful info into one post, so it can be linked from the OP.

In the morning….

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67058

teacher wrote:

I'll do it.

delusional wrote:

After a few hundred cycles, it seems my bottle cap’s plastic is too soft. It’s flattened out. I need some harder plastic.

Try one of the single circle LEGO pieces. It looks to be about the right size, maybe a little small. I can get an actual part number if you need.

Specifically a 1×1 plate
ID: 4633691/6141

JohnnyUtah wrote:

Try one of the single circle LEGO pieces. It looks to be about the right size, maybe a little small.

Not quite.

The circle on top of a lego brick is 4.8 mm across.

The FW3A nub is 2.0 mm across.

If you’ve ever had coarse-grain sugar, like “raw” or turbinado brown sugar, the FW3A nub is about the size of one grain of sugar. Maybe a relatively large grain, but still. It’s basically the size of a single cake sprinkle.

Seems like a piece of a plastic welding rod would be suitable here. Harbor Freighr used to sell this pack but couldn’t find it on their website any mor. Is it possible for that store to go downhill?

I am thinking about this nubbin issue, (piston) while I do not have a light yet after only reviewing images and M4D M4X ‘s video, would it be easier or more practical to bond a suitable object to the dome of the switch?

More thinking and experimentation would be required. the dome probably deflects or deforms which would cause a distortion and break the bond. I don’t know I don’t one have to futz with.

The switch to me appears to be metallic in fact it looks a dome of a membrane switch.

To replace the nubbin itself Amazon offers these items Plugs
I can image cutting one of the smaller ones 1/16 inch diameter to size these plugs are tapered so the size could be improvised. Then use some RTV to bond it in place.
I am just thinking out load here so I really don’t know if this would work.

This nubbin issue is really bothering me I don’t know if I will buy a light because of it. It is IMO a manufacturing flaw the design is clear I think it was executed improperly.

My 2 cents

Also a suggestion for the adhesive – Pliobond. It’s a very tacky contact cement that resists solvents. I’ve been using it when repairing old cameras, gluing everything from light seals to rubber bumpers to the old peeling leatherette on the bodies. If it’s improperly placed, once the carrier solvent evaporates it peels away with no residue.

Silicone.

Just hold onto your nubbin.

Silicone comes unstuck to easily. Goop much more tenacious bond and remains flexible. Maybe this whole thing is a non issue if the switch is never taken apart. Has anyone’s come un-nubbined otherwise?

pennzy wrote:

Has anyone’s come un-nubbined otherwise?

If the switch isn’t disassembled I don’t think there is room for that to happen?

It would be nice to know the materials being used so one could use an appropriate adhesive.
If mine gives me issues I might try Bison’s Plastic Adhesive since it’s what I have.
But I don’t have high hopes for it working since I’ve a suspicion that the big part might be PP which the Bison isn’t suitable for.
In case someone wonders, that Bison adhesive is just a mix of PVC and solvents so it sort of “melts” the parts together.

Unfortunately I don’t have a very good soldering station so can’t really test the softening or melting point of the plastic accurately.

CRX wrote:

Silicone.

3M™ Weatherstrip Adhesive

It even comes in 3 decorator colors… Clear, Black, & Yellow ….. to expand your choices.

And if you want your nubbin to never ever come loose, use a dab of this:

3M 5200

Bottom line… just about anything will work.

BUT…. whatever you use, clean the old glue completely off both the nubbin & the rubber switch cover. This is important if you want the new glue to bond correctly.

Aquarium silicone is about as good as you’ll get for any mastic type stuff.

there is no need to disassemble the tailcap... 

if a repair will be necessary on day its good to know upfront to look at a small part not to disappear. 

otherwise :leave it as it is and stay happy  

M4D M4X wrote:

there is no need to disassemble the tailcap… 

 

if a repair will be necessary on day its good to know upfront to look at a small part not to disappear. 

otherwise :leave it as it is and stay happy  

Relampago wrote:

Just hold onto your nubbin.

You don't have to tell me twice!  

M4D M4X wrote:

there is no need to disassemble the tailcap… 

 

if a repair will be necessary on day its good to know upfront to look at a small part not to disappear. 

otherwise :leave it as it is and stay happy  

I just removed the clip because I plan to holster it ( of course, bezel side up while doing it), and aside from the usual black o-ring, there also was a thin, white o-ring placed in front of the clip (facing to the head) presumably to prevent the clip from rattling.

What do you guys think, put back the white o-ring back when the clip is off?

Today in FW3A news: Big feels for little nubs.