FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ

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JasonWW
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MJB83 wrote:
Thank you, yes; I have tried the reset numerous times – it doesn’t work.

Are you using a flat top battery?

Button tops are not recommended, although some of them do work. They can still act flaky if their length is borderline too long.

Try a different battery just to see if that changes anything.

Did you try confirming the retaining ring on the driver and tail cap are snug?

I’m not familiar with the latest versions with aux lights, but I think the functionality is mostly the same.

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MJB83
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Thank you for your reply.

I’m not sure the type of battery – it came with the torch. It is pink and has the following inscriptions:

INR18650-35E
Samsung SDI
3 KI1T

I have tried to tighten the caps at both ends and the internal retaining rings, yes.

Is it possible that the chip in the torch burnt out somehow and is now working on limited functionality?

JasonWW
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MJB83 wrote:
Thank you for your reply.

I’m not sure the type of battery – it came with the torch. It is pink and has the following inscriptions:

INR18650-35E
Samsung SDI
3 KI1T

I have tried to tighten the caps at both ends and the internal retaining rings, yes.

Is it possible that the chip in the torch burnt out somehow and is now working on limited functionality?


Can you post a link to where you bought it?

I looked at Lumintops website for a FW3A style light that has the aux leds and can’t find it.

Is this a modded or custom light?

BTW, you have to tighten the caps in a certain order if you loosen the tail.

You have to first loosen the head a little, then tighten the tail nice and firmly, then tighten the head.

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MJB83
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Thanks, I’ll try the order of tightening that you suggested. This is the link to the torch, as you will see I paid a bit for it, so would love to get it working properly again.

https://www.liteshop.com.au/content/lumintop-fw3a-damascus-2800-lumen-en...

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MJB83 wrote:
Thanks, I’ll try the order of tightening that you suggested. This is the link to the torch, as you will see I paid a bit for it, so would love to get it working properly again.

https://www.liteshop.com.au/content/lumintop-fw3a-damascus-2800-lumen-en...


Yep, that’s an odd one. I don’t know much about it.

On one hand it says it uses a FET+7+1 driver and Anduril. That is normal for the FW3A.

On the other hand it says the firmware is: lume1 – FW3X Constant Current Buck-Boost

I’m going to guess that the Buck-Boost circuit is probably going to be built into the auxiliary board for the auxiliary LEDs. I really don’t know.

The stock driver uses the Attiny 85 MCU which has 4 pwm outputs (on the FW3A driver), but I don’t think it can control multicolor aux leds. 3 of those outputs are for the 3 channels which only leaves one other channel free. I don’t think a single output channel is enough. I’m not sure. Does anyone know?

I do know that other Anduril lights that use factory multicolor leds use the Attiny1634 MCU which has way more outputs.

I have not been on the forum much so maybe there have been changes to the FW3A driver? Did it switch to a 1634 or still the original one?

Back to MJB83, on a stock light I would say your symptoms sound like both the 7135 channels (1 & 2) stopped working and only the 3rd channel (FET) is working. With a stock ceiling level, only channels 1 and 2 are active. This would explain why you can’t ramp up or down and only a double click works. The double click of course is what activates the FET to give turbo output.

I’m hesitant to say that’s your problem, though because it’s rare for two channels to go out at the same time for no reason. Plus you’ve also got the auxiliary board which adds extra complication. I would definitely contact the store you bought it from if none of our suggestions fix it.

Here is a picture of a flat top battery. Note that the positive end does not stick up.

Does yours look like that or do you have the type where the tip is raised and sticks up higher? If it’s raised (button top), then it might be a tiny bit too long. Just a fraction of a millimeter can cause erratic behavior. I was originally using a Samsung 30Q with a button top that worked, but occasionally would make it act funny. I had to remove the button, or swap to a flat top, and it fixed all my issues.

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treellama
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The Damascus and Mokume FW3As come with a buck-boost + FET driver, not the standard 7+1+FET from the original FW3A. It sounds like the buck-boost channel is not working, but the FET is. Similar problem, same solution is to contact the vendor.

Those drivers also do not have reverse polarity protection, if you ever put the battery in backward even once, the driver is toast.

JasonWW
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treellama wrote:
The Damascus and Mokume FW3As come with a buck-boost + FET driver, not the standard 7+1+FET from the original FW3A. It sounds like the buck-boost channel is not working, but the FET is. Similar problem, same solution is to contact the vendor.

Those drivers also do not have reverse polarity protection, if you ever put the battery in backward even once, the driver is toast.


Thanks for the info.

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MJB83
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Thank you for this. I will contact the Seller.

Is it possible to purchase replacement drivers?

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MJB83 wrote:
Thank you for this. I will contact the Seller.

Is it possible to purchase replacement drivers?

https://www.nealsgadgets.com/products/lume1-fw3x-driver

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MJB83 wrote:
Thank you for this. I will contact the Seller.

Is it possible to purchase replacement drivers?


Pretty sure that is a special driver. You will have to ask the seller. You paid a pretty penny, they should accommodate you.
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pennzy wrote:
MJB83 wrote:
Thank you for this. I will contact the Seller.

Is it possible to purchase replacement drivers?


Pretty sure that is a special driver. You will have to ask the seller. You paid a pretty penny, they should accommodate you.

The driver linked to in post 1540 is the Lume1 from loneoceans. I believe that is the special driver used in that fancy lookinh FW3a that has the problem.

JasonWW
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Very neat driver. Seems it does use the Attiny1634 MCU. More info on it HERE in Loneoceans thread. A lot of components packed onto a board the size of a quarter.


.

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memheli
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My FW3A has lost all it’s functionality. Won’t lock w/ 4 presses, no clicky modes, and now dims and brightens with just one press. Is there a factory default that can be done?

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Was the tailcap removed or loosened just before this happened? It has been noted that the tailcap MUST be tightened tightly FIRST and then the head screwed on.

How old is this FW3A?

roostre
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memheli wrote:
My FW3A has lost all it's functionality. Won't lock w/ 4 presses, no clicky modes, and now dims and brightens with just one press. Is there a factory default that can be done?

Anduril User Interface Manual: http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril-manual.txt

First check if your light is in "Muggle Mode":
NOTE: Muggle mode is remembered even after changing the battery.
Click 6 times from Off to enter or exit Muggle Mode.


To "Reset Factory Defaults" (may not work with older versions of Anduril):
NOTE: you may need to recalibrate temperature after resetting factory defaults.

Method 1: (for FW3A type lights with an inner control signal tube)
13 clicks while off but hold the 13th click until the lights output is stable indicating that the reset has finished.

Method 2: (for other lights unlike FW3A type lights without an inner control signal tube)
Disconnect power by loosening battery tube and then hold the e-switch while reconnecting power until the lights output is stable indicating that the reset has finished.

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None, real men are not afraid of the dark.

memheli
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roostre wrote:

memheli wrote:
My FW3A has lost all it’s functionality. Won’t lock w/ 4 presses, no clicky modes, and now dims and brightens with just one press. Is there a factory default that can be done?

Anduril User Interface Manual: http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril-manual.txt


First check if your light is in Muggle Mode />NOTE: Muggle mode is remembered even after changing the battery.
Click 6 times from Off to enter or exit Muggle Mode.



To “Reset Factory Defaults” (may not work with older versions of Anduril):
NOTE: you may need to recalibrate temperature after resetting factory defaults.


Method 1: (for FW3A type lights with an inner control signal tube)
13 clicks while off but hold the 13th click until the lights output is stable indicating that the reset has finished.


Method 2: (for other lights unlike FW3A type lights without an inner control signal tube)
Disconnect power by loosening battery tube and then hold the e-switch while reconnecting power until the lights output is stable indicating that the reset has finished.

was in muggle mode! Thank you. I want to buy another one of these. Love the light. Thank you!

CR888
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Hey folks someone here may know the answer to this, I have a FW4A and want to know if the different size battery/body tubes from a FW3A can be used on my FW4A? There are heaps of listings for FW3A body tubes and I have not been able to specifically find FW4A ones. So I thought maybe as they take the same size battery (flat top 18650) that tail caps and bodies are interchangeable? Can anyone confirm this? Thanks

CR888

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I know my FW4A hates button top cells, actually I think you’d do damage trying to use one screwing the cap all the way down. They tooo long.

CR888

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You can use some button tops if you remove the + spring, but its not a guarantee. Some are still too long

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CR888 wrote:
Hey folks someone here may know the answer to this, I have a FW4A and want to know if the different size battery/body tubes from a FW3A can be used on my FW4A? There are heaps of listings for FW3A body tubes and I have not been able to specifically find FW4A ones. So I thought maybe as they take the same size battery (flat top 18650) that tail caps and bodies are interchangeable? Can anyone confirm this? Thanks

Yes the body and tailcap are exactly the same between the two lights. Only difference is the head. So that means all the different bodies(18350, 18500, 18650) clips, and custom buttons that work on the FW3A will work on the FW4A.

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CR888
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BOO5TED wrote:
CR888 wrote:
Hey folks someone here may know the answer to this, I have a FW4A and want to know if the different size battery/body tubes from a FW3A can be used on my FW4A? There are heaps of listings for FW3A body tubes and I have not been able to specifically find FW4A ones. So I thought maybe as they take the same size battery (flat top 18650) that tail caps and bodies are interchangeable? Can anyone confirm this? Thanks

Yes the body and tailcap are exactly the same between the two lights. Only difference is the head. So that means all the different bodies(18350, 18500, 18650) clips, and custom buttons that work on the FW3A will work on the FW4A.


Thanks a bunch all i could get from the China sellers was the fw3a tube is for the fw3a. Now I can order some parts.

CR888

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Mine stopped working today. Removed the battery to recharge, placed it back, it blinked , and nothing.
Was a daily used light this year, and I really like it.
Tried to reset it, nothing.

Were should I send it to get fixed? It was bought here in the group buy.

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Sounds like the common issue experienced with these lights. Have you read through this thread? Most of the time it is a matter of loosening the head and tightening the tail. Then retighten the head. Also clean and tighten the retaining ring (s) with alcohol. Clean all contact points where the tubes meet tail and head. Make sure you haven’t gotten into muggle mode . If yours is one of the later ones, try a reset.

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juhha wrote:
Mine stopped working today. Removed the battery to recharge, placed it back, it blinked , and nothing.
Was a daily used light this year, and I really like it.
Tried to reset it, nothing.

Were should I send it to get fixed? It was bought here in the group buy.


Sounds like your switch isn’t making contact. Try what Penzzy said. Loosen head, tighten tail, then tighten head.

You can verify if the switch is making contact by removing the head and using a digital multimeter like in this vid. https://youtu.be/kjtaQI4XDYs
You may have to play with the tightness of the tail to get it working. Then attach the head. It can be a bit finicky getting the torque right.

It’s not financially feasible to ship it off. Shipping would cost the same or more than the light is worth.

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juhha
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Did what you both suggested an still nothing.

The multimeter, when doing the tail swith test, does buzz, showing that has continuity(?).
When measuring the head, it shows 1.69mA.
When fidling with the proves, the light momentarily ramped, but I couldn’t replicate it.

Shipping to the USA, would cost me 8€.

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juhha wrote:

Shipping to the USA, would cost me 8€.

USA to Portugal would be about US$15 for 8 ounces and about US$25 for 15-1/2 ounces.

https://postcalc.usps.com/Calculator/MailServices?country=10362&ccode=PT...

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Remove the pocket clip and try what pennzy said again. Also, are you using a unprotected flat top cell?

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juhha wrote:
Did what you both suggested an still nothing.

The multimeter, when doing the tail swith test, does buzz, showing that has continuity(?).
When measuring the head, it shows 1.69mA.
When fidling with the proves, the light momentarily ramped, but I couldn’t replicate it.

Shipping to the USA, would cost me 8€.


When talking about shipping, I was referring to Portugal to China insured for any type of warranty work. I know USA to China is about $35 USD minimum. So you are talking about sending it to the USA to get someone to work on it? Did you have someone in mind? That could be feasible depending on what is wrong with it and what they would charge.

If you think the driver is bad and it’s not a contact issue (and you can solder) you can replace the driver. I could of sworn replacement drivers were available pretty cheap, but I can’t find that info right now. Maybe someone can show where to get it.

I kind of still suspect a contact issue since it ramped once. You can try cleaning the black inner tube ends. Aluminum tends to oxidize over time. You can try a different length battery as well, if you have one. Loosen and then tighten the retaining rings. Tighten the head different amounts. I would try whatever I can. Sending it away would be the last resort.

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juhha
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I am using a flat top samsung 30Q. Removed the pocket clip, and still it doesn’t turn on.

Cleaned the light thoroughly, with alcohol, and nothing.

I don’t have the knowhow nor tools to fidle with the light. Probably contacting Lumintop will be the next thing to do.

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Driver retaining ring loose?

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