This thread was created to fulfill one of the simple “hopes” of ToyKeeper *in THIS post*.
It will contain very simple, but useful; information to acquaint you with your new FW3A.
Not everyone will need this information, but for those that do; here it is….. posted below in order of relevance for the most part.
___________
REMEMBER
1. Install a CHARGED battery from the head (front
), positive to driver
2. DO NOT REMOVE TAILCAP… UNLESS:
- You want to remove clip
- You just want to…
3. Keep it tight
- Driver retaining ring
- Tighten tailcap first
- Tighten head second
_______
The FW3A uses the Andúril firmware by ToyKeeper. Your FW3A comes with a detailed User Manual that explains this UI (User Interface) in great detail. Read it, read it again, read it until you understand it. That understanding will enable you to access & use the neat features available with the FW3A.
Please also read & understand page #11 of your FW3A User Manual. It concerns the Thermal Configuration of your FW3A.
This step of Indoor Temperature Calibration need only be done one time.
The light will operate without doing this step, but if you want the thermal sensor to be accurate…. do it.
For more instruction see post #3 & video in post #5)
IMPORTANT… Please read
The statement below was taken from The FW3A OP… read it & pay attention:
- The FW3A has smooth thermal regulation to avoid overheating. However, turbo is a burst mode only, and the user should use it only for short periods instead of relying on thermal regulation to prevent heat damage. Full turbo is powerful enough to start fires in just a few seconds, especially when aimed at dark-colored materials.
If you want a bit of extra info about the FW3A also read THIS
Now.. without further distraction, let’s begin with post #2.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
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Getting aquainted with your FW3A
You have just received your FW3A, here are a few basic & simple things to do and check.
1. Open the box, it should contain:
2. Remove everything from box & visually inspect your light for any external damage
3. Unscrew the head from your FW3A, check driver retaining ring for tightness, visually verify driver is properly seated, & then set head aside
4. Check the tailcap for tightness & tighten if necessary. DO NOT REMOVE TAILCAP (necessary tailcap removal will be addressed later)
5. When you are satisfied tailcap is tight insert a charged battery with the positive (+) terminal facing out, toward the driver.
6. After making sure of proper charged battery installation replace the head & tighten
7. Your light should now be operational
Please note:
If you ordered a battery with your light there may well be a clear almost invisible sticker covering the negative pole of the battery.
This must be removed to charge the battery & operate your light.
After removing the “sticker” check the battery voltage.
It should be around 3.4 V… (3.3 V – 3.6 V is how I usually receive them)
Charge the battery.
When charged, insert the battery in your light as described above.
Your light should now be operational
If your light is not operational after taking these steps, please see Post #5 below.
.
___________
Care of your FW3A
Besides cleaning it if it gets dirty there is not much to do except, as with any light; clean & lube the threads and O-rings from time to time.
Wipe the threads clean with a rag and then lightly lube the threads and O-rings.
I use & recommend Super Lube Synthetic Grease for this because it is compatiable with any formulation O-ring.
If you use something else no problem.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
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So you want to remove the clip from your FW3A
Ok, you now have your FW3A & you want to remove your clip. To do this you must remove the tailcap. Do it this way & you should experience a harmonious outcome…
1. Remove the head
2. Remove the battery
3. Point the head end of the battery tube at the ceiling
4. Unscrew the tailcap & set it down flat so it stays together
5. Remove the clip
6. Point the head end of the battery tube at the ceiling again
7. Reinstall the tailcap & tighten
8. Reinsert battery in proper orientation, positive (+) toward driver
9. Install head & tighten
10. You should now have an operational clipless FW3A
____________
Thermal Configuration & Protection
Thermal configuration
Look at a thermometer to check the current room temperature. Let us assume it says 21 Celsius Turn the light off and wait for its temperature to settle to room temperature.
Go to TempCheck (from OFF: “Click Click Click”. Ascend with double-clicks three times)
When you are in TempCheck, then click 4 times to enter thermal config mode, and calibrate the sensor.
Thermal config mode has two settings:
1. Current temperature Calibration.
2. Temperature limit.
The default is 45 C (15 clicks).
Hint: If you don’t click, the lamp will leave the value unchanged.
The lowest value the user can set is 31 C, by clicking once.
___
°C…… °F
100.. 212.. Boiling Water
_60.. 140
_55.. 131
_50.. 122.. Touch limit
_45.. 111.. [Default]
_40.. 104
_37,4. 99.. Body temp.
_25…. 77
_20…. 68
__0…. 32.. Frozen Water
MaxTemp. – 30°C = Clicks
___________
+How to Calibrate the Temperature & Limit on Your FW3A flashlight with the Anduril firmware. / M4D M4X
___________
____________
Protection Features
Some features which aren’t visible on the diagram:
Andúril includes low voltage protection (LVP) and thermal regulation.
This activates at 2.8V. LVP adjustments happen suddenly, in large steps.
Thermal adjustments happen gradually, in steps so small they are difficult for humans to perceive.
It ramps smoothly across 512 internal steps (from 1×7135 to full power) to adjust output while it searches for the highest level it can maintain without overheating.
_______
Momentary Mode
To do this, set the light to your desired output, then turn it off. Click five times to enter ‘momentary’ mode.
NOTE: You’ll need to disconnect power briefly to exit ‘momentary’ mode. Any button presses will just make the light flash. You can’t ramp or enter any other modes while in ‘momentary.’
(by goshdogit)
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
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Tailcap assembly
Ok, for whatever reason your tailcap is in pieces & you need to reassemble it. No problem, don’t panic… it is not rocket science.
The main thing is… don’t loose your ‘nubbin’. (This will be discussed below, complete with a picture of the ‘nubbin’; as well as what to do if you do lose your ‘nubbin’.)
To reassemble tailcap:
1. Place tailcap body, threads up; on a stable flat surface
2. Install metal switch button, flat side down; in tailcap body
3. Install rubber washer, flat side down; in tailcap body
4. Make sure ‘nubbin’ is in flat washer & pointed up toward the sky
5. Install switch with spring pointed up toward the sky
6. Point battery tube head end at ceiling
7. Install tailcap on battery tube & tighten
Nubbin & flat rubber washer/switch cover
.
Nubbin in proper position (Orange homemade ‘nubbin’ where factory ‘nubbin’ belongs.)
…….
More Switch Component Pictures
_______
But…. I lost my ‘nubbin’!!
No big deal… stuff happens.
You will however have to improvise & fabricate yourself a ‘nubbin’. The FW3A will not work without a ‘nubbin’.
See the FW3A Troubleshooting Thread to find a solution to a “lost nubbin”.
.
Pro Tip:
If you lose your ‘nubbin’ or just want to secure your factory ‘nubbin’ better (not necessary) just reglue it.
There are many varying opinions as to which glue is best… in reality it makes little difference as long as it holds. I personally am gonna use a tiny dab of 3M 5200 on mine because I want them to be there forever (and not have to worry about loosing my ‘nubbin’ when I take my tailcaps apart as I know I will) & I also happen to have some 5200 on hand.
BUT AGAIN….. what I am doing to mine is not necessary.
If you do glue or reglue… do make sure the parts to be glued are completely clean.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
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My FW3A won’t work or was working but quit.
If your FW3A quit working or does not work, check these two things first.
1. Is the battery sufficiently charged
2. Is everything tight
If this fails to make your FW3A operational go HERE
___________
Driver Retaining Ring
A loose driver retaining ring can cause an issue. That issue is described below along with the simple solution.
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1497067#comment-1497067
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1497246#comment-1497246
Firelight2 wrote:
Discovered an issue today:
Several times now after inserting the battery at the head and then screwing closed the light I’ve noted that the head sometimes stops screwing down a couple mm before it should. This appears to be caused by the inner switch contact tube being slightly off-center and hitting the edges of the narrow driver retaining ring. When this happens the inner tube does not make contact with the driver and the light does not work.
If this occurs, the light can still be screwed down by unscrewing and then rescrewing the head in several times until things line up right. But that doesn’t solve the problem and is frustrating to do. This issue occurred with both my FW3As.
Analysis and Solution:
The problem appears to be caused by the driver retaining ring not being screwed tight to the driver at the factory. If you encounter this issue, use tweezers to turn the driver retaining ring so that it is flush against the driver. Once the retaining ring is snug, this problem goes away completely.
Driver Retaining Ring: Loose / Installed
___
____
steel_1024 wrote:
In addition to tightening the retaining ring.
Also align the 2 notches shown in the figure below.
NOTE: This driver retaining ring is very thin, but it is there. If you do not have the proper tweezers, a nail, toothpick, pointed fingernail file, etc. may be used to tighten a loose retaining ring.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
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Threads, Posts, & Videos of Interest
Threads & Posts:
___________
Mod Threads:
___________
Videos:
.
Neal – FW3A Assembly
.
M4D M4X – FW3A Switch Assembly
.
M4D M4X – FW3A Video Review
.
Anduril Configuration starting with Thermal Configuration / by ZozzV6
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
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Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Miscellaneous Information (still under construction)
1. Batteries
2. Optics
FW3A Optics
The 105xx Series Carclo Optic may be easily replaced or interchanged in the FW3A if needed or desired.
Beam angle comparisons between four Carclo optics:
— Frosted Carclo Optics
— Clear Non-Frosted Carclo Optic
Buy Carclo Optics:
3. MCPCB
Noctigon & similar 20mm Triple MCPCB’s should fit in the FW3A just about perfectly should you wish to modify your FW3A.
These can be purchased from many places easily. GOOGLE is your friend.
4. Accessories
Neal is trying to source some of THESE at a *Decent Price*.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
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Part time job as a scalper i see
Light Reviews
Cheap Flashlight Durability Test
Convoy S2+ Written review
Brinyte T16 Artemis tear down
YouTube Reviews
Sofirn D25S Review
Xmund XD-FL3 Review
World band shortwave radio review
Mods and Builds
6th Annual Old Lumens Scratch build entry
7th annual Old Lumens scratch build entry
Wow....lots of reservations here.
Can't wait to see what this will be about.
Some ideas – probably you’ll be doing these anyway but just thought I’d pop them in!
Optics, I believe there were 4 (item numbers 10507, 10508, 10509 & 10511 I think and what they do to throw etc) and where to buy them – I did see it in the main thread but like all the info it’s lost forever in a million posts.
Holsters that fit
Modding bits, glow tapes/ disks, trits etc. Someone even did drilled optics, but they were a little expensive for me sadly (a lot of work is involved in making them though)
Diffusers for the ‘play’ modes lightening , candle etc – the rubber cone/dome things
Batteries – their pros and cons with this particular light
I guess more ideas will follow from others when they get their lights and start playing
The BLF Flashlight / Accessory / Battery / Spares Retailers Thread with Discount Codes
Thanks for the ideas Goose. Ideas welcome…
Yeah I’m working on it & should have it up later today after I get finished with a doctors appointment.
Last night TK asked (hope for) a volunteer to do this… I could not refuse the ‘Light Goddess’ and the rest will be history.
@ Lux-Perpetua…. Yeah… I went “reservation” crazy.
I figured better to many than not enough. I’ll just delete the unneeded ones later.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
I'd have to say, I have some... reservations about this thread...
Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category
ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Would it be more useful to put the issues and fixes into a spreadsheet rather than another BLF thread?
Just thinking out-loud….and thanks for taking this one
9mm/40cal/45cal bullets and large/small pistol primers available for sale in San Francisco Bay area
Soon… ALL of BLF will be FW3A
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - CRX Flashlight Builds - - CRX Stuff for Sale -
CRX, i’m waiting for you to add your custom switch with trit installed to this thread. Then, I can PM you and you can take my money.
Maybe some smaller trits in a triangle around the tiny plastic switch nub?
My light is on it’s way, traveling by Yodel, which is always fun
From the pictures I have seen, for a single central vial install it looks like the centre nub in the steel cover can be ground down/ slotted, a hole or slot into that with a 6mm x 1.5mm trit & UV glue and then some playing around with the nub on the rubber switch boot. Maybe also use a thinner vial there.
Or as you say three trits in a triangle shape etc would look really nice too.
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - CRX Flashlight Builds - - CRX Stuff for Sale -
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
I know …. Yodel! same here!
I’m kinda surprised someone on here doesn’t sort of mass produce some trit switches for this, once programmed the time and cost would be minimal – next to no materials either and the milling would take a matter of minutes. I could make some on the lathe, but no milling option sadly.
The BLF Flashlight / Accessory / Battery / Spares Retailers Thread with Discount Codes
Thanks you for creating this thread, teacher.
I'm sure it will help a lot of BLF members.
How to Post Images on BLF // Many knives for sale (USA only)
How to move a thread
GO TIGERS
Hopefully it will help those that need it.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
This might be a topic for a more advanced guide, and it’s not strictly unique to the FW3A:
How about including some notes on calibrating the thermal sensor in Andúril? Might help some folks squeeze out a few extra seconds on turbo.
Also, I don’t see a link to the manual at all. Maybe include that near the top, at the very least.
You been in the swamp to long buddy…..
I hear you actually…. I wish it could ‘somehow’ be us two at the end, 1 & 2.
.
.
… 
I would honestly be good with either being 1.
As long as they both “showed up” & played that is. I couldn’t take a repeat of last year on our part at the end…
RTR & GT
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
The FW3A uses standard 20mm triple stars compatible with the Carclo 20mm triple-TIR optic.
This means standard 20mm Noctigon triple stars fit perfectly.
Good idea.
It’s one of those things new users should know, along with “open the front, not the back”. It works a lot better after it’s calibrated, and it only needs to be done once.
nice thread!
thanks for the work
all new deals are also posted here: deals.m4dm4x.com
if you do not find what you are looking for :
ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will save you money!
Thanks for putting this together!
I looked for the FW3A User Manual too, so as to add a link to it; but I can’t find it if there is one. If you or anyone knows of one, direct me to it and I’ll certainly add a link to it.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
This link is posted on Neal’s site:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0031/0155/6806/files/Anduril_-_FW3A_us...
ZozzV6 made a video about Andúril’s configuration, here a link which starts with thermal config : https://youtu.be/h_mZ35IPLMA?t=742
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