Finally got my DHL package on Monday May 6th. Couldn’t help but to start making them my own right away. One is a 219b ~5700k CRI92 from some old KD triple board. The other has got 4000K sliced dome sst20w. The SSTs are very green on anything lower than the stock ramp ceiling but still do an excellent job rendering. The 219Bs are okay as well. Probably fairly close to the BBL.
I’m still not satisfied with the tints here so emitter swaps will continue. Also might try polishing one of the optics. I need more throw and would like some spill too. I think I’ll drill the optic holes in the mcpcb to utilize the KD optic which has a reflector-like beam pattern.
Lastly, I torched my torches. I can’t decide which I like better, but I like em both for sure.
https://i.imgur.com/3QMZrY9_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium
Stay tuned..
Here’s maybe a better picture with natural lighting and a white reference.
********
Beamshots (cd/lm low to high)
8x YUJI VTC-D50 Mule, FW3A 219B, FW3A XPLHI, SC63W
11R 6A2 XML2, V11R STOCK, XPL-dd Triple, Supfire M6 XML2 (7D3,6B2,3A)
D25A 219B-dd, BLF A6 XPL-dd, XPLHI P60, FW1A SST20w-dd (BLF A6 SMO)
KD P60 SST20w, YEZL Y3 XML2-dd, COMETA Clone, Jacob A60 XPE2-dd
Beamshots (CCT low to high)
SST20W P60, V11R 6A2 XML2, Supfire M6, D25A 219B-dd
XPLHI P60, BLF A6 XPL-dd, FW1A SST20w-dd, XPL-dd Triple
ZL S63w, FW3A 219B, FW3A XPLHI, YEZL Y3 XML2-dd
8xYUJI VTC-D50 Mule, Jacob A60 XPE2-dd, Cometa clone stock, V11R Stock
Proof of concept.. end goal is either machining a longer bezel ring (possibly from SS) and maybe an S21A reflector if Simon makes them available separately.
Wrong Imgur link… Fix it please, I want to see your FW3A !
Fixed
NICE !
Love the way the switch and clip turned purple
The baked ano is going to get a few days for me to decide on. I know I’m not a fan of the blue-gray stock look. But I went a little too far and it started goldening. If you go slow and know ahead of time the color transitions, stopping just before this gives you a very very light grey with no blue tones. Blue is actually the first color to go away. Then it lightens. Then starts browning. Been tempted to continue with the heat and then just strip it bare afterwards if it’s not good. I think I’m going to throw one in a stone tumbler too..
@JaredM Could you share some of your beamshots?
Can you link to the “KD optic with reflector like beam”? That sounds great.
Not a huge fan of the now-gold color but man that purple switch button and clip are georgous!
I can try tonight to get some phone pics. I don’t have a good camera. I’ll do my best though.
http://kaidomain.com/Flashlight-DIY-and-Tools/LED-Emitters-or-LED-Star-on-PCB/Luminus-Leds/Luminus-SST-20-J3-HD2-Warm-White-3000K-LED-Emitter
Any triple board comes with them in my experience. They require larger diameter holes though for the centering pins/legs
I like the torched version better!
How to Post Images on BLF // Many knives for sale (USA only)
How to move a thread
Looks like you’ve got some pretty nice mods done or coming soon.
I’m not really modifying mine much, but I’m tempted to put a longer nub in the button of an older prototype so it’ll stop missing button clicks. Also waiting for the $30 version to be released so I can put 219B emitters into one.
So far the only modding I’ve done is to try out different emitters and optics:
Currently my modded FW3A is sporting 2x XPL HI 3D 5000K and 1x XPL HI 5D 4000K with Carclo 10507 narrow spot optic. My other FW3A is unmodified.
I don’t have any plans to modify the exterior of the light. It looks beautiful as-is. However, it is a little slippery. I do wonder if adding some grip tape around the indented portion of the battery tube would help. If I did that I would leave an open area under the clip.
All I got so far……they are Works in Progress…..
.
.
. and so it go’s…
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Yeah. I think I may have to sand and polish one. That looks really nice.
Those pictures make me irrationally want a stainless steel one.
Find all my reviews of flashlights and more gear at www.bmengineer.com
Those pictures make me wish that Fritz’s original concept stuck..
I’m happy though that we have options now.
Lumintop could use nickel plating like in their hlaaa flashlight for a similar effect.
(Hello, I’ve been lurking for a long time before joining for this group buy.)
I’m fairly certain my HLAAA is bare stainless
Find all my reviews of flashlights and more gear at www.bmengineer.com
Yes, it’s bare stainless steel.
Trying to nickel plate aluminium is one of those things that’s quite expensive from an electroplating company.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
Well, Lumintop disagrees with you. This is from their HL AAA page under Features: “11. Made of aircraft-grade aluminum alloy with nickel plating on the surface”.
Also I have been interested in that light and have handled one myself. The fact, that it is not made of steel, has stopped me from buying it.
Anyway, I just wanted to add an idea, that should be doable by the manufacturer.
The problem that I’ve heard about is that the nickel layer on the HL AAA is extremely thin, since it’s using an electroless nickel process, meaning it’s not a very durable plating.
A real thick nickel plating would be much tougher and thicker, but way more expensive as there are many more steps involved.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
This is my favorite one, very cool mod! The clip was well done, not sure if I’d want the tail cap in the same finish as the rest. But either way, very nice flashlight.
Convoy S2+ 219b triple, Astrolux FT02, Maglite 3D, Solarforce L2t
Thank you very much… it was alot of work. After bead blasting I used a Red Scotch Brite pad, then 600/800 emery paper, plus 3 different polishes by hand and I’m still not very happy with it. I have a couple Surefire lights that were the same way, I just got to keep after it. I have some Tripoli Brown and Red Rouge coming soon, so we will see how that go’s!
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
anything I missed?
should fit, I am not super confident the MCPCB solder points fit excactly as I can only guess from pictures, while I have the measurtements from the optic
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Looks good Lexel!
One suggestion: It looks like you designed this board to fit the 20mm star that comes with the FW3A, which is great.
However, it might also be a good idea to design it so this board also fits standard Noctigon 20mm triple stars. That way it can be used in many more lights, since Noctigon stars are easy to get. To make it fit Noctigons you would need another hole for a driver wire though, somewhere near where the “L” in “Lexel” is on the board.
updated for Noctigon should fit?
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
All the inner bondwire pads on the Noctigon are for the + wire. All the outer pads are for the negative wire. Your board might need a wire hole further out to line up with one of the negative wire pads?
Looks like if you made a second hole right above the “T” in TLF then it should work.
I notice Vinh has his FW3Avn thread up on CPF. Looks like he’s modified them with Oslon white flat and Nichia 219B. And he also made one into a quad using a modified Carclo quad optic.
No waaaaay….and i still didn’t get my shipping info!!!!!
WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube
My experience has been 0.0003” e-nickel or thicker is reasonably durable, and cost scales nearly linearly with thickness.
Yeah, 0,0003” nickel is durable.
However, at 7 microns, that means the part must have spent ages in the bath to form such a layer without electricity.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
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