So, I arrived home and made some experiences.
Here’s the first video with the normal configuration of the FW3A in the tailcap:
Here’s the video with the inverted silicone cap, and nubbin towards the metal cap, as mentioned above.
And this was the last thing i’ve done to make it a “silent-stealth-tactical-decent” switch
with the help of these
I applied some white Scotch tape (adhesive) in the edges of the metal cap to avoid the metal “scratch” after clicking or pressing&hold. And inverted/flipped the silicon cap + nubbin
It is silent now!
The bezel was made to ideally accept a Convoy S21a reflector. Currently I’m using the same S2+ SMO, which is too small and looks silly. Also, I ran out of time machining the part and didn’t get a chamfer on the outer edge. I made this of 7075 in hopes that it’ll stand up to drops better than 6061. Lastly, I’m going to dip the new part in an NaOH bath to try and match the surface finish of the rest of the light that was stripped.
If anyone has any suggestions to reflectors or single optics in the 22-23mm range and very shallow (10-12mm) let me know please. I’m hoping Simon makes available the S21a reflectors like he does with most models but as of yet haven’t heard back
It’s great, we need one. A single TIR optic would be fine too, and there wouldn’t be more length.
Call me crazy but I actually like it a bit longer. Maybe it’s just because I have larger hands, but it feels a lot better now and that 5-6mm extra is unnoticeable in my pocket.
Diameter however is another story. You notice every millimeter there. I like the girth of the FW3A in hand (seems just right), but in the pocket it could stand to loose a mm or two.
It’s great, we need one. A single TIR optic would be fine too, and there wouldn’t be more length.
Single TIR optic is still going to be longer than the stock triple TIR. Unless you use a very tiny single-TIR optic that only uses a fraction of the width of the light.
One advantage of the Carclo triple TIR is that it’s really shallow. Just 7mm. You’re not going to find any single-TIR optics that are 20mm wide and only 7mm deep.
I just inverted the position of the rubber cap + nubin below the metal cap and it started being more silent while clicking.
It didn’t fully overcome the somewhat delayed turn OFF after clicking but it also helped on that.
There’s also a repo branch there for instant off as a compile time option, but I found that it breaks some ramping features. If you want I can post my changes to the code to make it work better.
Of course, you’d also need a USBasp, SOIC clip, and soldering iron to flash your driver.
I bought these to use around the Emisar D4 switch to recess it. They fit perfectly around the chrome ring and bring the top of the switch flush with the plain of the washer. Turns out , they also look good on the FW3A . I think they will prevent accidental activation well. Sorry, no pictures.
I’m looking to add some Aux Lights to my FW3A. I know I’ll need to flash Andruil with them turned on (which I’m in the process of learning). Would it be possible to use this and add some 0805 leds along with the appropriate resistor to control their output?
I have 351D 4000k 90CRI and copper noctigon in the drawer.
Is it worth swapping if I have hi 7a currently and not happy about colour rendering.
What do you think? Maybe you could suggest other high cri led’s to put in?
Mike
—
Think of how stupid the average person is, and realize half of them are stupider than that. George Carlin
Anyone offended by my signature please fill Complaint Form. Thank you.
If a lot of people listen to Slayer, the world would be a better place to live" - Tommy Wiseau
I know it would mean removing the pretty metal button, but I was thinking they may be useful to tell multiple FW3A’s apart, and also may quiet down the switch a bit.
Every time we turn around more accessories are available to customize the FW3A!!!
Being plastic, these new glow button caps are probably a lot easier to modify to allow a trit. You can probably carve a slot in them with an exacto knife…. much easier than the metal button.
When it is cold outside it is easy: there is always a light in my coat. And it stays there.
Now it is summer, and the light goes from shirt to pants to coat. Never one night the same.
To protect it from too much wear, I looked in my box of spare parts for a holster.
And I found a suitable one, that belonged to the very-low-budget Utorch SF-01. But never used as such.
But it had a flaw. The flexible part that goes over the button does not prevent unwanted activation of the light.
Amazing switch, but hair trigger. So I went looking for something that would prevent that from happening.
Then I came across the dog-tag of my beloved dog that I miss dearly, even after almost 10 years.
I unpicked the seam of the flap and put the tag there. Giving it a bit of room to wiggle it in the right spot.
And stitched it up again. No more unwanted activation of the light. Now I can leave it “on” all of the time.
—
You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.
Does anyone have knowledge or experience with the 3000K 90CRI XP-L HI’s that Kaidomain sells? My 3000K 95CRI SST-20’s will be moving to my FW3C, so I thought about getting the same original floody beam but with warm high CRI emitters and stock Carclo 10511 for my FW3A, which is used around the house a lot. (The FW3C with the throwy beam of the SST-20’s and Carclo 10507 will be used when I go out):
Lens comparison from first batch FW3A vs No Lens (optic in place) vs UCL Lens. This is a modded 219B on the 2nd stepped level.
Stock AR Lens:
1260lux (239.4lm)
Yxy: 337.437599 0.364519 0.362489
CCT = 4372K (Duv -0.0018)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 91.8 [ R9 = 84.5 ]
R1 = 93.8 R2 = 92.4 R3 = 88.7 R4 = 92.1 R5 = 92.6 R6 = 87.6 R7 = 93.3
R8 = 93.9 R9 = 84.5 R10 = 80.7 R11 = 92.1 R12 = 71.8 R13 = 93.0 R14 = 93.8
No Lens:
1280lux (243.2lm)
Yxy: 291.757632 0.362148 0.358032
CCT = 4422K (Duv -0.0032)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 92.2 [ R9 = 88.3 ]
R1 = 94.9 R2 = 92.9 R3 = 88.5 R4 = 92.2 R5 = 93.6 R6 = 88.1 R7 = 93.1
R8 = 94.6 R9 = 88.3 R10 = 81.7 R11 = 92.4 R12 = 72.8 R13 = 93.9 R14 = 93.6
UCL Lens:
1290lux (245.1lm)
Yxy: 324.812067 0.363629 0.359307
CCT = 4381K (Duv -0.0031)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 92.2 [ R9 = 87.9 ]
R1 = 94.7 R2 = 92.8 R3 = 88.5 R4 = 92.1 R5 = 93.4 R6 = 88.0 R7 = 93.1
R8 = 94.5 R9 = 87.9 R10 = 81.6 R11 = 92.4 R12 = 72.8 R13 = 93.8 R14 = 93.6
So, I arrived home and made some experiences.
Here’s the first video with the normal configuration of the FW3A in the tailcap:
Here’s the video with the inverted silicone cap, and nubbin towards the metal cap, as mentioned above.
And this was the last thing i’ve done to make it a “silent-stealth-tactical-decent” switch
with the help of these
I applied some white Scotch tape (adhesive) in the edges of the metal cap to avoid the metal “scratch” after clicking or pressing&hold. And inverted/flipped the silicon cap + nubbin
It is silent now!
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection ///
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
FW3A Tritanium switch button….
A WIP…..
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Nice.
The bezel was made to ideally accept a Convoy S21a reflector. Currently I’m using the same S2+ SMO, which is too small and looks silly. Also, I ran out of time machining the part and didn’t get a chamfer on the outer edge. I made this of 7075 in hopes that it’ll stand up to drops better than 6061. Lastly, I’m going to dip the new part in an NaOH bath to try and match the surface finish of the rest of the light that was stripped.
If anyone has any suggestions to reflectors or single optics in the 22-23mm range and very shallow (10-12mm) let me know please. I’m hoping Simon makes available the S21a reflectors like he does with most models but as of yet haven’t heard back
The FW1A is for real?
edit: just read your text. what a wonderful creation.
It should be. But I had to make my own. Requires only a new bezel, two off-center holes on the emitter shelf, and a suitable reflector.
I hope that someone will create and sell this bezel. The other parts should be easy to get.
It’s great, we need one. A single TIR optic would be fine too, and there wouldn’t be more length.
Nice job, I like that.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
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Which size UCL lens? 22.6 × 1.9? Sounds like a good fit with the SST20.
Call me crazy but I actually like it a bit longer. Maybe it’s just because I have larger hands, but it feels a lot better now and that 5-6mm extra is unnoticeable in my pocket.
Diameter however is another story. You notice every millimeter there. I like the girth of the FW3A in hand (seems just right), but in the pocket it could stand to loose a mm or two.
Single TIR optic is still going to be longer than the stock triple TIR. Unless you use a very tiny single-TIR optic that only uses a fraction of the width of the light.
One advantage of the Carclo triple TIR is that it’s really shallow. Just 7mm. You’re not going to find any single-TIR optics that are 20mm wide and only 7mm deep.
Maybe a little longer, but probably still shorter than a reflector? Either or both would still be small and great.
Lumintop can have anything made…..
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
I got the spool of Chaos Red that I’ve been waiting for, and it looks nice, but is not as translucent as I’d hoped.
Prints up nice, has a slightly rough finish.
Like the Plum Purple, I don’t think it is the best for diffusers, but it’ll be used for other things.
/\ … I kinda like it.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Delayed off is a feature of ToyKeeper’s Anduríl firmware. You can see her rationale for it here: https://bugs.launchpad.net/flashlight-firmware/+bug/1803001
There’s also a repo branch there for instant off as a compile time option, but I found that it breaks some ramping features. If you want I can post my changes to the code to make it work better.
Of course, you’d also need a USBasp, SOIC clip, and soldering iron to flash your driver.
I bought these to use around the Emisar D4 switch to recess it. They fit perfectly around the chrome ring and bring the top of the switch flush with the plain of the washer. Turns out , they also look good on the FW3A . I think they will prevent accidental activation well. Sorry, no pictures.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LBQ789W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_...
Has anyone tried the Green. Does it last longer/brighter than the Aqua?
Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience
A little John Prine
I’m looking to add some Aux Lights to my FW3A. I know I’ll need to flash Andruil with them turned on (which I’m in the process of learning). Would it be possible to use this and add some 0805 leds along with the appropriate resistor to control their output?
I have ordered mine with green. I will give feedback when I get it if no one else has.
I have 351D 4000k 90CRI and copper noctigon in the drawer.
Is it worth swapping if I have hi 7a currently and not happy about colour rendering.
What do you think? Maybe you could suggest other high cri led’s to put in?
Mike
Think of how stupid the average person is, and realize half of them are stupider than that. George Carlin
Anyone offended by my signature please fill Complaint Form. Thank you.
If a lot of people listen to Slayer, the world would be a better place to live" - Tommy Wiseau
I swapped out the 7A’s for 351D’s (4000k) in my wife’s FW3A and she is much happier with the result. It’s very floody but she likes that.
Floody is what I need too. Too many tight hotspot lights.
Thanks, Mike
Think of how stupid the average person is, and realize half of them are stupider than that. George Carlin
Anyone offended by my signature please fill Complaint Form. Thank you.
If a lot of people listen to Slayer, the world would be a better place to live" - Tommy Wiseau
Has anyone tried the glow button caps listed at Neal’s?
Glow Button Cap for FW3A
I know it would mean removing the pretty metal button, but I was thinking they may be useful to tell multiple FW3A’s apart, and also may quiet down the switch a bit.
Wow that’s pretty neat.
Every time we turn around more accessories are available to customize the FW3A!!!
Being plastic, these new glow button caps are probably a lot easier to modify to allow a trit. You can probably carve a slot in them with an exacto knife…. much easier than the metal button.
When it is cold outside it is easy: there is always a light in my coat. And it stays there.
Now it is summer, and the light goes from shirt to pants to coat. Never one night the same.
To protect it from too much wear, I looked in my box of spare parts for a holster.
And I found a suitable one, that belonged to the very-low-budget Utorch SF-01. But never used as such.
But it had a flaw. The flexible part that goes over the button does not prevent unwanted activation of the light.
Amazing switch, but hair trigger. So I went looking for something that would prevent that from happening.
Then I came across the dog-tag of my beloved dog that I miss dearly, even after almost 10 years. I unpicked the seam of the flap and put the tag there. Giving it a bit of room to wiggle it in the right spot.
And stitched it up again. No more unwanted activation of the light. Now I can leave it “on” all of the time.
You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.
/\ . Great solution!
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Does anyone have knowledge or experience with the 3000K 90CRI XP-L HI’s that Kaidomain sells? My 3000K 95CRI SST-20’s will be moving to my FW3C, so I thought about getting the same original floody beam but with warm high CRI emitters and stock Carclo 10511 for my FW3A, which is used around the house a lot. (The FW3C with the throwy beam of the SST-20’s and Carclo 10507 will be used when I go out):
http://kaidomain.com/Flashlight-DIY-and-Tools/LED-Emitters-or-LED-Star-on-PCB/CREE-XP-L-Series-LEDs/Cree-XP-L-HI-T5-7C1-Warm-White-3000K-CRI90-LED-Emitter
Acebeam L18, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Olight Baton 3, Olight Warrior Mini, Olight M2R Pro Warrior.
Most of them have been modded! =)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
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