FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

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jon_slider
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thank you Smile

mattlward
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I assume the o-ring goes inside the base of the button?

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

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The oring mod is quite simple:

  • Disassemble the tailcap
  • Remove the plastic nubbin from its socket on the inside of the rubber button boot.
  • Place the endcap on a table with the inside facing the ceiling.
  • Insert the metal button
  • Insert the rubber button boot
  • Insert the o-ring into the rubber button boot
  • Insert the switch PCB.
  • Insert and screw on the switch retaining ring.

Note that the FWAA has a small wide spring that sits around the outer edge of the button boot. It provides electrical contact even if the switch pcb is not snug. Make sure this is in position when reassembling. The FW3A does not have this spring.

jon_slider
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the detailed steps is much appreciated

Im unable to turn the switch retaining ring in my FWAA, using a small flathead screwdriver

what do you use?

Im considering buying this snap ring tool, good idea or suggest other options?

BOO5TED
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I’ve always used the silver part of a binder clip.

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

 

jon_slider
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thanks, got the ring loose with the tips of some needlenose pliers.. need O ring next…

xevious
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Firelight2 wrote:
jon_slider wrote:
xevious wrote:

EDIT: OK, I went for a day with the 3/16th ID o-ring and decided it was too firm. I stepped down to a 5/32nd o-ring. NOW, we’re talking. This is better. Still tight enough to prevent accidental activation, but requires less pressure & it’s about 30% quieter than with the 3/16th ID.

does this work for the FWAA switch button, and which O ring size would you choose?

I haven’t checked the difference between those o-rings.

However, I can confirm that the space inside the button boot and the top of the switch in an FWAA appears the same as in the FW3A. I have a large bag of o-rings and every one of my FW3As and FWAAs has received the o-ring mod using the same o-rings. Basically, any o-ring mod that works on an FW3A should also work on an FWAA.

Yeah, that makes sense to me, given how the switch cover diameter is nearly the same (the FWAA is like 1~2mm shorter) . I’ve not yet bothered to take apart my switch. It works so well, I don’t mind doing a quad click for electronic lockout.
BOO5TED wrote:
I’ve always used the silver part of a binder clip.

The MacGuyver in me just got a stiffy. Thanks! LOL

Btw, speaking of enlarged…
I put a fat o-ring at the base of the body tube on my FW3A, just under the clip ring. Wow, does this extend the easy handling of this tube light. So easy to hold & manipulate. That… didn’t come out right. LOL

jon_slider
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xevious wrote:
I put a fat o-ring at the base of the body tube on my FW3A

aka Tactical Ring

also available for $16 from HDS..

Flipping the body, gives a similar grip advantage.

Firelight2
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I think the idea of the tactical ring is that it makes it even easier to get a cigar grip, because the ring makes the ledge that stops your ring and middle finger even bigger.

Flipping the body tube would make the light harder to use with cigar grip I think. Doing so eliminates the ledge your fingers are supposed to grip.

jon_slider
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flipping the body eliminates a need for a tactical ring

the flare on the flipped body serves to stop the light from sliding forward, plus it balances the grip towards the middle of the light.

the stock body position makes the grip area too far back towards the tail, it is not balanced, and the unflared body tube has a sudden ridge, that is not as comfortable, and not as secure as the flared end.

When using cigar grip without a tactical ring with the stock body position, I feel concern about dropping the light.

With the flipped body, the feel in hand is Much more secure.

try it Wink

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Yeah, you could call it tactical, although I’m using a fully rounded o-ring, not flattened off. I like using this rather than flipping the tube. It’s a definite “ledge” for easy grab & hold.

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xevious wrote:
I like using this

whatever makes you happy is good Wink

fwiw, here is the center line for the two body positions

when I use cigar grip with the body flipped so the flare is towards the tail, the light does not slide forward.

With the stock body position, I can understand needing a tactical ring to prevent the light from slipping forward.

The body flare towards the tail, makes for a much more balanced feel, for me. I also like that I have no need to add any bulky, ugly, rubber parts to the body of the light. But thats just me Beer

nobody
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jon_slider wrote:
xevious wrote:
I like using this
whatever makes you happy is good Wink fwiw, here is the center line for the two body positions ![img]https://i.imgur.com/qyVcjYRl.png[/img]! when I use cigar grip with the body flipped so the flare is towards the tail, the light does not slide forward. With the stock body position, I can understand needing a tactical ring to prevent the light from slipping forward. The body flare towards the tail, makes for a much more balanced feel, for me. I also like that I have no need to add any bulky, ugly, rubber parts to the body of the light. But thats just me :BEER:
That just looks odd
jon_slider
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nobody wrote:
That just looks odd

I can understand your reaction.

otoh, it reminds me of a Hanko head (thats a good thing):

(pic is a link to Hanko image source)

and the hand feel with the flipped body is sooo much more balanced, for me.

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Thanks for the detailed photos, Jonathan.
I don’t have any problem with grip slipping, as I have a bicycle inner tube on part of the body. The o-ring is more for easy pick up from the back end and finger manipulation:

So far I like it. I’ll see how it goes… if the o-ring turns out to be more obtrusive then I’ll ditch it for the body switch. Aesthetically, I like the current tube orientation.

Btw, I picked up some more of that Cape Cod cleaning cloth. It really does a great job on copper without being abrasive. It’s just a tad cheaper than the Sunshine cloth. FWIW, I have a 2-piece bag of the stuff that I bought about 20 years ago. One cloth was done. The other was still somewhat serviceable. I was able to use it on my FWAA with success (just did the tube, left the other parts alone, for contrast).

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great photo! Thumbs Up
like the multi glow gasket too

glad to hear the cod cloth works well for you
does it smell like turpentine, does it leave an oily residue?

fwiw, I was able to “revive” an old sunshine cloth that was blackened with a lot of metal residue, by rinsing it under running water..

suprisingly, the rinsed Sunshine cloth works very well still.. whatever adhesive is holding the grit to the cloth, did not rinse out.. I did not use soap.

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jon_slider wrote:
great photo! Thumbs Up
like the multi glow gasket too
Yeah, the multi-glow looks nice, but it sure doesn’t have the brightness of the green one! When I get my LM10, I’m going to install the RBG in it and put the green one back in my FW3A.

Here’s the gasket in my 18350 outfitted FW3A. The tint should be bright green, not aqua. Funny how camera CCD distorts colors.

xevious
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jon_slider wrote:
great photo! Thumbs Up
like the multi glow gasket too

glad to hear the cod cloth works well for you
does it smell like turpentine, does it leave an oily residue?

fwiw, I was able to “revive” an old sunshine cloth that was blackened with a lot of metal residue, by rinsing it under running water..

suprisingly, the rinsed Sunshine cloth works very well still.. whatever adhesive is holding the grit to the cloth, did not rinse out.. I did not use soap.

Cool. Sounds like Sunshine is a good equivalent option to Cape Cod. Regarding smell, Cod comes in a vanilla like aroma. It’s not overpowering. Definitely doesn’t smell toxic. It is a “wet” cloth. It does leave behind some kind of substance that you do wipe off, but it didn’t strike me as oily. The package has a ziplock seal on it, so you do want to protect the cloth from drying out. But it can probably be revived with some moisture, as you’d done.
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xevious wrote:


Thumbs Up
sergx
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Hello guys! Are there any verified people on this forum who take orders on custom fw3 flashlights?
To be more precise – I want to put lume1 driver + warm xpl-hi U4 8A (2700k, 80CRI) in a 18350 tube. Instead of osram rgb in the centre – one SST-20 high powered led 660nm (deep red on aux port).
It’s a pity that fw3X has no any warm light options.
Or maybe this is not very difficult to made by myself? Is there any basic instructions on web how to attach leds to the driver and do everything proper/where to buy components and so on?
I’m completely new in this party, but I know exactly what I want. Glasses

xevious
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sergx wrote:
Hello guys! Are there any verified people on this forum who take orders on custom fw3 flashlights?
To be more precise – I want to put lume1 driver + warm xpl-hi U4 8A (2700k, 80CRI) in a 18350 tube. Instead of osram rgb in the centre – one SST-20 high powered led 660nm.
It a pity that fw3X has no any warm light options.
Or maybe this is not very difficult to made by myself? Is there any basic instructions on web how to attach leds to the driver and do everything proper/where to buy components and so on?
I’m completely new in this party, but I know exactly what I want. Glasses

The mix of your questions, like giving very specific emitter specifications for your requirements but then asking about how hard is the process to reflow emitters… is puzzling.
Reflowing emitters is fairly easy to do once you’ve got the right equipment, have learned from example videos + text pages, then practiced it yourself on a few junk lights. But that’s quite an investment of time and effort if it’s just one light you want customized.
I suggest you visit the Flashlight Modding subsection and post a request there. A few BLF members have reflowed emitters and do it for others. If you’re in Europe, you might want to reach out to CRX, who is quite talented in flashlight modding. He’s in the UK.

Btw, I wouldn’t try putting an SST-20 in the center LED position unique to the Lume1 board. There is no optic for it. It won’t add much more to the output you’ve already got.

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xevious wrote:

Btw, I wouldn’t try putting an SST-20 in the center LED position unique to the Lume1 board. There is no optic for it. It won’t add much more to the output you’ve already got.

If he is just after a floody red emitter then that’s not the problem. The problem is making it high power and then heatsinking it.

  

jon_slider
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sergx wrote:
Are there any verified people on this forum who take orders on custom fw3 flashlights?
To be more precise – …

skylumen.com is a commercial modder, you might ask if he is willing to change LEDs for you, keeping stock driver

if you want a Lume1 driver, ask Loneoceans if he knows anyone that would do that job for you.

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