Nichia 219BT-V1, R9080 Warm White, 2700K is available

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contactcr
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rprilenski wrote:
Thank you for the information! That is good to know. I am also interested in modding some lights with my 219B stash one day and always wanted to utilize a 26650/219B set up for long run times and maximum performance.

So, an Orbtronic battery like this below should be safe to utilize? (~22A)
https://www.orbtronic.com/26650-battery-5750mah-30a-high-drain-imr-li-io...

I know there are Keeppowers and Shocklis out there with less constant current drain (15-20A), should I use these instead?

There are so few 26650’s out there these days that I wouldn’t be surprised if every accurately rated >= 5500mAh 26650 battery is the same exact battery underneath. Most people recommend this (heavily re-wrapped/re-sold) high capacity battery for all use cases both low and high discharge.

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contactcr wrote:
rprilenski wrote:
Thank you for the information! That is good to know. I am also interested in modding some lights with my 219B stash one day and always wanted to utilize a 26650/219B set up for long run times and maximum performance. So, an Orbtronic battery like this below should be safe to utilize? (~22A) https://www.orbtronic.com/26650-battery-5750mah-30a-high-drain-imr-li-io... I know there are Keeppowers and Shocklis out there with less constant current drain (15-20A), should I use these instead?
There are so few 26650's out there these days that I wouldn't be surprised if every accurately rated >= 5500mAh 26650 battery is the same exact battery underneath. Most people recommend this (heavily re-wrapped/re-sold) high capacity battery for all use cases both low and high discharge.

^ agreed, about them all most likely being the same battery. Not too many companies making 26650's 

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jon_slider wrote:


.

I have seen people mention that no matter what LED’s they try, they ultimately come back to the 219b SW45K. That includes the warmer 219b’s as well, and I can see why now. There is no warmer & pinker CCT than the SW45K the lower you go in 219b’s. I have heard people say the Nichia SW35k are the best ones, but clearly not for pink. People that say that just like warmer CCT’s, not pinker ones obviously. I’m glad I found this out because I was already putting my order in for SW35K’s. I likely would have been seriously disappointed to not be getting the warmer pinker light I imagined it’d be. Thanks for posting this and reconfirming. I may end up preferring a mix of E21a’s to achieve that warmer pinker light than SW45K i’m hoping to find.

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the more i look at jonslider's pictures, the more i think im going to mix the sw45k and sw35. i think thats where my happiness will be. lol

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@Lojik
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ArtieT59 wrote:

the more i look at jonslider’s pictures, the more i think im going to mix the sw45k and sw35. i think thats where my happiness will be. lol

I want that too and it was my number one option but I don’t know if it will be rosy enough.

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@Lojik wrote:
ArtieT59 wrote:

the more i look at jonslider's pictures, the more i think im going to mix the sw45k and sw35. i think thats where my happiness will be. lol

I want that too and it was my number one option but I don't know if it will be rosy enough.

yea i hear ya. I mean basically both of these emitters look a whole lot rosier than that newer xpl-hi 5D 4000k ive been ordering and have 6 lights with LOL. so i think i will be happy, i honestly have never had a really rose colored led, except for that one good 5D, plus i think these two mixed together will be warmer like i prefer while still have some rose / pink in it. we can compare later lol.

 

edit - also, te longer i look at the sw45k, the more i realize it is a little "cooler", i think that is my biggest reason why i want to mix them. I like that "yellow"/orange/whatever color a nice 3000k emitter has too. The xpl-hi 2850 8A is near perfect, but just a little too much yellow/orange/ whatever it is lol. but of course its not hi cri either. 

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I wonder if Jon_slider merging the 2 beam shots would give an idea of what the mix would look like.

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@Lojik wrote:
I wonder if Jon_slider merging the 2 beam shots would give an idea of what the mix would look like.

hmm, it usually does. at least a general idea. or we could ask him to start reflowing some LED's coolinnocentsurprised

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@Lojik
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ArtieT59 wrote:

@Lojik wrote:
I wonder if Jon_slider merging the 2 beam shots would give an idea of what the mix would look like.

hmm, it usually does. at least a general idea. or we could ask him to start reflowing some LED’s coolinnocentsurprised

I’m so torn. I already ordered all SW45K’s last night and am on edge wondering if I should do the mix or not. I really do want a warmer rosiness.

In another post, Jon_Slider wrote this…

“I do not consider the N219c 3000k 9050 to be “rosy”
I do not consider the N219b 3500k 9080 to be “rosy”
I do not consider the N219b 4000k 9050 to be “rosy”
I Do consider the N219b 4000k 9080 to be slightly “rosy”
I Do consider the N219b 4500k 9080 to be slightly “rosy”
I Do consider the N219b 4500k 9080 sw45k to be Very “rosy”

It was comment #40

https://budgetlightforum.com/node/68168?page=1

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photos are not all set to the exact same white balance

ultimately, each person has to buy and try each LED for themselves

about pinkness.. it all depends what it is compared to
the sw45k is definitely the Most Pink, but the SW40 also looks slightly pink, particularly compared to low cri cool white
to me the sw35 has zero pink component, it is one of the reasons I am not a fan..
Im totally biased towards the sw45k, because it is cool enough for daytime EDC

at night, warmer colors work better.. whether that is 4000, or 3500, or 3000k, depends on what other light source is in the environment, that is influencing the white balance of the observers brain.

I use 3000k incandescent house lights.. what I like at night will be different than what I like during daylight hours

about pink.. at night my sw45k does not look pink, because it is cooler than my ambient light, and that blue tone is more noticeable than any pink tint

conversely, during the day, I Do see the pink tint, when looking at the beam on a white piece of paper.. this is because daylight is greener..

to really quantify Tint, and pinkness, we have to look at spectrum tests that include the numerical Tint value for DUV.. basically, the LED with tint below BBL will have negative DUV.. most LEDs have tint above BBL and this will be positive DUV.. the sw45k is the main exception.. it is one of the most strongly negative DUV LEDs I know of

please dont buy an LED because you think it will look as pink as my photos.. those are just how the camera sees the comparison to the other lights in the photo

when using an LED light as a single source, the brain adapts its interpretation of light to make it look white.. pink is a figment of the visualization.. LOL

rprilenski
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Look at post #244 from Andy. SW45K has a negative duv value thus the rosy tint. SW35 is pretty much spot on with a duv of almost 0. The bigger the negative duv value is, the rosier it is. Others feel the SW35 has a slight rosy hue to it mixed with a warmer temperature tint (myself included) but the SW45K takes the #1 spot in rosiness.

https://budgetlightforum.com/node/68168?page=8

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Order in for the D4V2 with 219b sw-45k’s. This will save my stash of leds and a decent amount of time doing the mod. Really a no brainer.

Thanks for offering these Hank!

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

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Hank, can I order D4V2 with 219B SW45K as a mule with 8 LEDs? If possible, how much is the surcharge? Thank you. Smile
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rprilenski wrote:
Look at post #244 from Andy.

good info!

.

watch how the 219b 4000k sw40 “looks” like it has a different Tint, depending on the Tint it is being compared to
in the next 3 photos, the light on the left is the exact same light:

here the sw40 looks “straw” colored:

here it has a slight peach tint:

and here it looks really green!

comparisons appearances depend heavily, and appear to change, depending on the other lights in the comparison

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jon_slider wrote:
rprilenski wrote:
Look at post #244 from Andy.

good info!

.

watch how the 219b 4000k sw40 “looks” like it has a different Tint, depending on the Tint it is being compared to
in the next 3 photos, the light on the left is the exact same light:

here the sw40 looks “straw” colored:

here it has a slight peach tint:

and here it looks really green!

comparisons appearances depend heavily, and appear to change, depending on the other lights in the comparison

This is good stuff, Thanks. I just compared the two combined beam shots of sst20 4000k mixed with 219b sw45k and I did not prefer it to straight 219B. I guess my warmer rosiness will have come from E21a’s not 219B’s.

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@Lojik wrote:
I guess my warmer rosiness will have come from E21a’s not 219B’s.

find the Tint spec in DUV for the E21a you are considering
in my limited experience, the 3500k E21a is greener, than the 3500k 219b, which itself I do not consider pink at all
the 4500k E21a I tried is also greener, by far, than the 219b 4500k.

otoh, the E21a shows whites better than 219b, because the E21a is not as pink.

what saves the warmer LEDs, for me, is that the orange warmth, forgives the tint actually being yellow instead of pink, and I do recommend the warm E21a options being offered by hank

I like 219b better, but E21a is mostly very similar

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Question about optics with the 219B: I’m going to order a D4V2 with the 219B SW35. I like warmer tints and I have the E21A 3500K in my KR4 and the E21A 2700K in another D4V2, and both of these came with the floody optic.

Does anyone know if the 219B will also ship with the floody optic? (I would imagine that would look best, but I’m open to hearing other opinions…)

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> Does anyone know if the 219B will also ship with the floody optic?

dont know, suggest you ask the seller

fwiw, optics are easy to swap and inexpensive.. suggest you ask the seller for a couple spare “narrow clear” optics to experiment with..

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219Bs look fine in clear optics IMO. They are just great in everything.

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I have a D4v2 that I swapped some sw40 in and they look great with the clear optic.

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> suggest you ask the seller for a couple spare “narrow clear” optics to experiment with..

Good suggestion, thanks!

>219Bs look fine in clear optics IMO. They are just great in everything.
>I have a D4v2 that I swapped some sw40 in and they look great with the clear optic.

Thanks, I had read where E21As almost require a floody optic and assumed the 219Bs would be similar. Good to know the clear optics are fine.

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If I am ordering a d4 with 219b, what are best suggestions for driver to ask Hank to put in it? Is 7.5 amp driver with fet too much? Can it have fet at all? Should it have 5 amp driver not fet?

 

Sorry, I know people have answered questions like this all day, but earlier I was curious about the dt8, now I'm thinking d4. Thanks.

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just finished the sw45k swap in the middle:

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In my humble opinion… the sw-45k is the best led ever. I have made a couple of sw-35/sw-45k quads and they really are nice, but a little warm for me. I lucked into about 25 xp-l hi, I think they were 5D2, anyway below the bbl. They display a slight roseyness and really high output. For me, after all of my builds… low cri I like about 3750k and high cri builds I like 4000 to 4500k.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

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I came out of lurking mode to ask if anyone knows how limited this is? I already have four D4V2s from Hank: Black XPL 6500K, Grey XPL 5000K. Cyan e21A 4500K, and a Sand e21A in 3500K. I’m not normally a fan of rosy tints and definitely don’t want to get anything too redundant but my FOMO alarm is going crazy. I don’t even know what light I’d want this in but am leaning towards the 219b in 4500K in something.

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ArtieT59 wrote:

If I am ordering a d4 with 219b, what are best suggestions for driver to ask Hank to put in it? Is 7.5 amp driver with fet too much? Can it have fet at all? Should it have 5 amp driver not fet?


 


Sorry, I know people have answered questions like this all day, but earlier I was curious about the dt8, now I’m thinking d4. Thanks.

Please note that Hank indicated he is shipping it with 9 Amp driver. No FET is included by default:
https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1781740#comment-1781740

Although the result of 2.25 Amps per emitter exceeds Nichia’s specified maximum current for the 219B, The collective experience of this forum has demonstrated that lights with good thermal performance give the 219B no discernible trouble at this current.

Having a FET could be slightly risky, and I would prefer not to do so for 4 × 219B, but if you read the last page or two of discussion, you will see others are fairly comfortable with it.

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K9.3 using 219B SW45K…with or without FET? What’s your opinion? 9x 2.25A max = 20.25A. Using a Samsung 50E or 50G should be fine, shouldn’t it?

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Should be fine, BTW I made this a while ago to estimate direct drive current : https://www.geogebra.org/graphing/raa8dkdm

Instructions : https://budgetlightforum.com/node/74653

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iamlucky13 wrote:
ArtieT59 wrote:

If I am ordering a d4 with 219b, what are best suggestions for driver to ask Hank to put in it? Is 7.5 amp driver with fet too much? Can it have fet at all? Should it have 5 amp driver not fet?

 

Sorry, I know people have answered questions like this all day, but earlier I was curious about the dt8, now I'm thinking d4. Thanks.

Please note that Hank indicated he is shipping it with 9 Amp driver. No FET is included by default: https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1781740#comment-1781740 Although the result of 2.25 Amps per emitter exceeds Nichia's specified maximum current for the 219B, The collective experience of this forum has demonstrated that lights with good thermal performance give the 219B no discernible trouble at this current. Having a FET could be slightly risky, and I would prefer not to do so for 4 x 219B, but if you read the last page or two of discussion, you will see others are fairly comfortable with it.

 

thank you so much, I appreciate this. I felt like the answer was somewhere in the last page or two but I got a little lost. This is a big help, and I read that what Hank said earlier and completely forgot about it, thanks. 

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@Lojik
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VonNadir wrote:
I came out of lurking mode to ask if anyone knows how limited this is? I already have four D4V2s from Hank: Black XPL 6500K, Grey XPL 5000K. Cyan e21A 4500K, and a Sand e21A in 3500K. I’m not normally a fan of rosy tints and definitely don’t want to get anything too redundant but my FOMO alarm is going crazy. I don’t even know what light I’d want this in but am leaning towards the 219b in 4500K in something.

Here is the thing about these LED’s. If I just ask you if you want a pink/rosy light, chances are you wouldn’t have any particular reason to say yes. But this is one of those things where you don’t know you want/need something simply because you don’t know it exists or how it benefits you.

The thing about this tint is that it’s like a final edit on pictures or a movie. When you see a magazine photo, it looks perfect. You don’t know how it got to look like that, you just know it looks great. Well this is the case with the Nichia 219B in SW45K.

If you were to bounce the rosy 219B light off a white wall and compare it to some of your other favorites, you still may not see “the big deal”. White walls ins’t where colors are gonna shine obviously. It’s in the colorful area’s of your life where you’ll best enjoy this light. Don’t compare it to the lights on a white wall, compare it in a garden, or on a beautiful painting. That’s when you’ll see how amazing the “rosy” tint is. Reds are a super important spectrum of color. Even just something simple like human skin becomes vibrant with 219b, then instantly dull with other LED’s. It’s something you just end up adoring after experiencing it fully like I told you, in real life. It’s in real-life conditions that other LED’s suffer or fare way worse. Others just don’t cut it when you compare them this way. In a nutshell, Nichia 219B light is like the perfect color edit to real life. Thats not something you can just claim about any LED. And keep in mind, it’s not just any ol’ rosy tint either. It’s ultra high, right side of the BBL High CRI rosy tint. Nichia 219B’s are like if LED’s were introduced to a brand new color and all of a sudden everyone wondered how the hell we ever got by without it.

So yeah, maybe give the LED a shot. Nothing you have now compares to it, so your FOMO would ultimately be appropriate. There are few that saw they don’t like the “rosy”. OK, I don’t know how much of a chance they gave it so I can say for sure why that is. All I know is if you like your movies and images to have proper editing and LITERALLY proper lighting (that makes colors pop), you may end up liking that effect on all life around you too, just saying.

Best of luck and Happy Flashlight hunting

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