21700 D4KTi COLORFUL version is available

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Correllux
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CollectEverything wrote:
You don’t miss the ability to hit 3000-4000 lumens in bursts? I find that is a compelling feature of these lights and is the main reason I don’t have one with a boost driver yet. It’s nice for checking out larger dark areas for a moment and, of course, it’s a fun conversation starter. What is the estimated max output of your configuration?

For this light, no it doesn’t bother me at all, but I am one that certainly does appreciate turbo and brighter light for some things. I have plenty of those lights, though. What this gives is a cell platform with plenty of capacity and plenty of current delivery when needed as well as more efficient use of the power…so great run times and steady output. Maybe not a holy grail but in terms of an all around working light (or edc for some, I suppose) it’s great. Quad in an optic so the range isn’t what you might want for outdoor use but then this would probably be the wrong choice for that, depending. I don’t know what the bin is on the 519A Hank is selling (it might be stated somewhere here or I’m sure he’d provide that if asked)…but ballparking on his stated 2A per emitter on the boost driver and glancing at the 519A datasheet with some assumptions, I’d say it’s probably in the neighborhood of 2800 lumens for the 4500K R9080. Plenty bright enough and of course too bright at max for most tasks, but it runs pretty darn cool and can hold its output…very nice. Right now I don’t have good equipment for lux measurements (just the Opple and I won’t waste anyone’s time with that for this light beam)…holding out for the right time to buy a Hopoocolor unit, hopefully soon. Visually it’s always been hard for me to compare smaller but significant differences in lumens on broad beam lights at these brighter lumen levels, and that’s compounded when you’re trying to discern warmer CCT with the old standby whiter temps. 4500K is on the low side of neutral, very pleasing light to me (reminds me of old HID lights) but it’s warm enough compared to whiter temps that to my eyes it always seems a little less bright than what measurements might say. I have these emitters in four other lights now and bought a bunch from Simon to have on hand. I love the 4500K…it’s a rare bird but probably hands down my favorite, and having it in high CRI is just great.

prototype3a
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Ooooh. I like that D4k !!

but.. I just had a thought… D4S with a longer tube for those 26800? 26900? cells…

I’m going to have to figure out a way to get a D4k on my Christmas list.

.
*edit

Oh! it is a thing!
https://intl-outdoor.com/d4s-v2-26800-tube.html

Correllux
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Yes…the 26800 tube is a thing! The one I got matched the cyan of the original perfectly. I love the 26800 cells (QB from Aloft), hope they stick around as a thing in the future.

CollectEverything
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Correllux wrote:
(snip) (Write-up on boost-driver Hank lights)
That actually sounds really compelling when you put it that way. The plan is to get at least two D4K lights eventually but I’ve been undecided on my configurations. I think one of them may end up having a boost driver now.

Correllux wrote:
Yes…the 26800 tube is a thing! The one I got matched the cyan of the original perfectly. I love the 26800 cells (QB from Aloft), hope they stick around as a thing in the future.

Same! The D4SV2 with 26800 tubes are absolutely stellar. I consider them a Goldilocks size for a jacket pocket light.

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puglife2
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I can’t see the option for the 21700 D1 ??

Correllux
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I considered the SST20 in 5K, which I think is actually still a pretty nice emitter all things considered, but for this I wanted a tad warmer without going Warm. I’m often dealing with metal in one way or another and not-cold CCT just works better for me in trying to see detail, textures, scribe lines, etc, etc. It seems to help me reading finer graduations on scales, too, and pencil or ink lines usually. Sometimes whiter is better though. For just knocking around and putting light out there, I can live with nearly anything. Smile

stephenk
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puglife2 wrote:
I can’t see the option for the 21700 D1 ??

Pretty sure there isn’t that option.
g_damian
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Is D18 update with higher efficiency driver planned?

Hank Wang
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Hi, Dear DM1.12 owners, you can use the firmware below to enable both channels to work at the same time (even on turbo mode),

http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril2/anduril.2021-12-13.emisar-d4sv...

https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.

strangequark
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Hank Wang wrote:
Hi, Dear DM1.12 owners, you can use the firmware below to enable both channels to work at the same time (even on turbo mode),

http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril2/anduril.2021-12-13.emisar-d4sv...

Awesome! Thanks Hank!

Slim Pickens
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Any plans to offer E21A/E17A with boost driver option? Seems like a natural fit

kat
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8×365nm mule is crazy.
You can feel the eye pain when you turn it to the max:)
I wonder how much true 365nm UV power do those 5W leds have.
I know Nichia had like 1.5W, but it was almost completely pure UV. These 5W Seol leds produce much more blue light than Nichia

kokosnh
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kat wrote:
8x365nm mule is crazy.
You can feel the eye pain when you turn it to the max:)
I wonder how much true 365nm UV power do those 5W leds have.
I know Nichia had like 1.5W, but it was almost completely pure UV.
These 5W Seol leds produce much more blue light than Nichia

Don't look at it, always wear professional UV protective glasses when using it.
xevious
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Correllux wrote:
Yes…the 26800 tube is a thing! The one I got matched the cyan of the original perfectly. I love the 26800 cells (QB from Aloft), hope they stick around as a thing in the future.
The 26800 cell is impressive for mAh and amperage capability. But out of the two chargers I’ve got, none can fit that large a cell. And since there’s no built-in charging, that means investing in a new charger… so 26650 is about it for me (SP33v3 host w/charging). What charger do you use for your cells, Correllux?
_________________________________________________________________________________

I was all set to buy a DM11, but then the colors ran out (no more green or gray). According to Hank, black is it for the remainder of the production. But in a way, this was good. It halted me from getting it and turned my attention to the D1.

Frankly, the D1 looks to me like a Lumintop GT Mini but with the advantages of Anduril, superior body, shorter length, and better LED choices. PLUS, the D1 has the option for RGB backlit e-button. While I was starting to shift my flashlight interest into 21700 and larger cells, 18650 still does the job, and the D1 offers so much for this form factor. Starting price is very attractive too. I was thinking of the SFT-40, which adds a mere $5… but then, saw the XHP70.3 now available, for another $10 over the SFT-40. Yeah, I’ll pay that much for bespoke CCT. I’m sold on the XHP70.3 5000k. Seems like a very good fit for this mini thrower. While a W1 or W2 is going to reach some impressive distances, that tiny hotspot isn’t all that useful at the outer end. I’d rather the range be a little shorter but with a larger hotspot and more usable spill.

Anyway, if anyone here has the D1 with XHP70.3 in 5000k, please chime in and share your impressions. Thanks!

Correllux
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xevious wrote:
Correllux wrote:
Yes…the 26800 tube is a thing! The one I got matched the cyan of the original perfectly. I love the 26800 cells (QB from Aloft), hope they stick around as a thing in the future.
The 26800 cell is impressive for mAh and amperage capability. But out of the two chargers I’ve got, none can fit that large a cell. And since there’s no built-in charging, that means investing in a new charger… so 26650 is about it for me (SP33v3 host w/charging). What charger do you use for your cells, Correllux?

I have two lights with onboard charging…26650 but both made the 26800 tubes available, so that makes it easy. M3C and FT03. I made an adapter sled for my usual Miboxer charger using the 26650 cradles that I split (for elongation) and mounted to a wood block with soldered 10ga stranded wires and a dummy cell, which works very well but is a little fiddly, so I’ve been mostly charging in the lights. If Vapcell follows through on an updated charger that takes these cells, I’ll buy one as long as it’s decent. Xtar did bring out that single cell charger for 26800 which I think without coupon was around $14, have to order it from China, though…they didn’t seem interested in stocking it in the US for some reason but maybe that’s changed, or will change. I think Yonii introduced a single cell unit as well and hopefully they’ve improved its faults. I was half hoping that maybe Astrolux/Banggood would update one of theirs but it doesn’t look like that will happen, and it also doesn’t look like Xtar will bring out a more fully featured 26800 bay charger.

kat
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I just realised that the 365nm 8×5W mule may not be very useful as I thought.
Because there is no throw compared to a Convoy for example. And having it floody and at max output does not produce any advantage over a single 5W 365nm light. On the contrary hurts the eyes like hell.

ZED
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Maybe I missed it, but what driver is in the dual channel D4K? I can’t find what max regulated is.

-Zach

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Slim Pickens wrote:
Any plans to offer E21A/E17A with boost driver option? Seems like a natural fit

What’s the actual limitation? The 8A amperage of the boost driver (quad E21A should be fine at 8A though) or something with the board being parallel or not?

CollectEverything
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Which type of driver is used each LED offering for the D1V2 again? I think I remember the FC-40 gets a boost driver but I can’t remember the rest.

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miguel41
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Hello, I just received my D1, with an RGB switch, but I don’t know how to control that button, to choose the color and so that it doesn’t stay on.
I also think I’ve read that it can tell the battery voltage, but I’m not sure.
I hope someone can give me a little help.
Thank you very much, greetings.

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miguel41 wrote:
Hello, I just received my D1, with an RGB switch, but I don’t know how to control that button, to choose the color and so that it doesn’t stay on.
I also think I’ve read that it can tell the battery voltage, but I’m not sure.
I hope someone can give me a little help.
Thank you very much, greetings.

https://ivanthinking.net/thoughts/anduril2-manual/
kokosnh
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CollectEverything wrote:
Which type of driver is used each LED offering for the D1V2 again? I think I remember the FC-40 gets a boost driver but I can't remember the rest.

GT FC-40 is 12V led, so it's getting 12V boost
B35AM is 6V led, so it's getting 6V boost 
XHP70.3Hi is wired for 6V, so it's getting 6V boost

rest is normal 3V led's 
CollectEverything
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kokosnh wrote:

CollectEverything wrote:
Which type of driver is used each LED offering for the D1V2 again? I think I remember the FC-40 gets a boost driver but I can’t remember the rest.

GT FC-40 is 12V led, so it’s getting 12V boost
B35AM is 6V led, so it’s getting 6V boost 
XHP70.3Hi is wired for 6V, so it’s getting 6V boost

rest is normal 3V led’s 

Thanks! And do the 3V LEDS get FET+_ drivers on this model?

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miguel41
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Thank you very much, I have almost achieved it, but I am new with anduril and it costs me a bit.

Ryzbor
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Hank, will we see a buck + boost driver from you in the future?

Trading the turbo mode for all the benefits of a boost driver is understandable, but the lack of a proper moonlight mode is too great a sacrifice, at least for me.

thefreeman
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A buck-boost driver won’t make the lowest output lower.

Ryzbor wrote:
Slim Pickens wrote:
Any plans to offer E21A/E17A with boost driver option? Seems like a natural fit

What’s the actual limitation? The 8A amperage of the boost driver (quad E21A should be fine at 8A though) or something with the board being parallel or not?

Indeed a new a series MCPCB for E17/E21A has to be made, and lowering the output, 2A per LED is IMO too much on Noctigon MCPCBs.

PyriteParachute
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g_damian wrote:
Is D18 update with higher efficiency driver planned?

A d18 with something like Sunlike or Optisolis with two switched mode (buck or boost) channels would be very useful for video lighting purposes.

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Got my D4K. Mine came with the following:

  • White body. I believe this is MAO. It looks like the white from the TS10 MAO pictures … noticeably whiter and less silvery than the white body from my D4v1.
  • Cyan switch light with raised switch ring.
  • Variable color temp.
  • Channel 1: 3500K 519a dedomed
  • Channel 2: 5700K 519a dedomed

I originally thought about going with 2700K 519a dedomed in Channel 1, but decided that was probably just too warm. Especially since dedoming seems to reduce color temp by approximately 1000K.

As expected, build quality is excellent. However, the threads at the head were a bit squeaky out-of-the-box. Lubing them up with Nyogel solved the problem.

So far I’m quite pleased with it. It feels great in the hand and the beam pattern, CRI and tint are excellent. Knurling and clip are excellent. Head is the same size as the D4v2 head, but with slight differences in the threads. Finally a 21700 light that is small enough for pocket EDC (barely. If I’m in the mood for a slightly larger than I would normally carry light).

stephenk
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PyriteParachute wrote:
g_damian wrote:
Is D18 update with higher efficiency driver planned?

A d18 with something like Sunlike or Optisolis with two switched mode (buck or boost) channels would be very useful for video lighting purposes.


Or just get an LED panel light?
m03da
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stephenk wrote:
Or just get an LED panel light?

Is there one with an open source firmware on the market?

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