21700 D4K is available for pre-order

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ToyKeeper
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lazerEagle wrote:
De-doming one would be interesting. Probably need to disassemble the head to get a flat cut.

I hear it looks pretty good that way. It has even attained meme status, thanks to the peculiar product code of one of the nicest and most popular bins.

It’s called a SPHWHTL3DA0GF4RTS6, often shortened to “DA0GF4RTS” or “dogfarts”. It’s a nice-looking tint bin. But while it’s nice as-is, I hear the beam is significantly improved by slicing off most of the dome to make it work like an XP-L HI emitter. This is typically referred to as “sliced dogfarts”.

lazerEagle
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well that made for an interesting google search.. did find a couple of hits though [1], [2].

any ideas if the 3500k e21a is coming back in stock?

- the best way to predict the future is to create it -

KalmJ
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Hey Hank,

Any update on when the new clip design will be released?

Agro
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I got my KR1 today.
I’m not perfectly happy with 2 things:

  • the switch feel ain’t good. I much prefer my piston e-switch light from CRX.
  • I hate clips and I don’t use lanyard. Forcing me to use either a lanyard ring or a switch is unfortunate. At the lower edge of OK but definitely not good.

Other than this – a good light.

SammysHP
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Agro wrote:
* the switch feel ain’t good. I much prefer my piston e-switch light from CRX.

Sadly that’s true. I’ve disassembled mine and tried to improve it, but failed. I think there’s not much potential for modding the original switch.

Agro wrote:
* I hate clips and I don’t use lanyard. Forcing me to use either a lanyard ring or a switch is unfortunate. At the lower edge of OK but definitely not good.

Not sure what you mean. You can use the flashlight without any ring if you want. There will be a tiny gap, but it doesn’t affect water resistance or function.
JaredM
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SammysHP wrote:
I haven’t seen a photo of this yet, so I made one. The anatomy of the KR4/KR1 switch:

Is the brass disc the equivalent of the plastic nubbin in the FW ?

I don’t have a KR to play with but has anyone tried an o-ring mod in this switch? Seems to have very similar design and other than dimensional changes, I can’t see why it wouldn’t have a similar result.

https://fundrazr.com/osturaband

No affiliation, just a fan.

scalpel_ninja
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Yes, the nubbin for the KR4 is brass.

I tried the mod on my KR4 with a #36 O-ring. The button felt worse for me. No increase in resistance and more side to side slop. I might try again if I can 3D print a gasket that sits between the button lip and tail cap to stabilize and reduce the slop. I actually use these gaskets on FW3s and it makes a really nice clicky E-switch. I just need to size it up to match the dimensions of the KR4 body.

Current Collection:

Inova X5 | Maratac Titanium Inspection AAAx2 XPL-G2 swapped to Nichia 219B sw45K | Wowtac A2S NW | Thrunite Ti3 NW | FW3 CuTi XPL-HI 5000K + 18350 tube | Olight I1R EOS (de-anodized) | Convoy S2+ 7135x8 T6-3B | HDS Rotary Nichia 219B 4000K | Nitecore Cu TINI | Fraz Labs Tiny Tank 18350 | TnC Aluminum Deep Red

trakcon
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I put the brass nubbin over the bump on the metal button cover and it vastly improved the feel of my KR4Ti switch. It fits perfectly there, so I figured it had just been assembled wrong at the factory.

Agro
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SammysHP wrote:
Agro wrote:
* the switch feel ain’t good. I much prefer my piston e-switch light from CRX.

Sadly that’s true. I’ve disassembled mine and tried to improve it, but failed. I think there’s not much potential for modding the original switch.

Agro wrote:
* I hate clips and I don’t use lanyard. Forcing me to use either a lanyard ring or a switch is unfortunate. At the lower edge of OK but definitely not good.

Not sure what you mean. You can use the flashlight without any ring if you want. There will be a tiny gap, but it doesn’t affect water resistance or function.

The gap is indeed tiny with 18350 tube but with 18650 one can clearly see that something is missing. It works but looks bad.
I guess I’ll just file the tubes a bit,
JaredM
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trakcon wrote:
I put the brass nubbin over the bump on the metal button cover and it vastly improved the feel of my KR4Ti switch. It fits perfectly there, so I figured it had just been assembled wrong at the factory.

Let me know if this is right.. (again, I don’t own a KR light — yet)

The order you used was:

SS switch button > Brass nubbin > Rubber boot > Switch board ?

This means you have rubber rubber adjacent to the diaphragm switch, assuming I’m correct. More or less this is what is ultimately desired IMO to increase activation force.

This also makes me wonder how an o-ring would perform in the “trakcon” configuration…

https://fundrazr.com/osturaband

No affiliation, just a fan.

JaredM
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scalpel_ninja wrote:
Yes, the nubbin for the KR4 is brass.

I tried the mod on my KR4 with a #36 O-ring. The button felt worse for me. No increase in resistance and more side to side slop. I might try again if I can 3D print a gasket that sits between the button lip and tail cap to stabilize and reduce the slop. I actually use these gaskets on FW3s and it makes a really nice clicky E-switch. I just need to size it up to match the dimensions of the KR4 body.

When you say side to side slop, do you mean the SS switch cover would become loose®? Or does that mean it became more sensitive to pressure on the edge of the swtich? Or that when pressing the button, it would seem to move “off-axis”, i.e. not just straight down and back?

https://fundrazr.com/osturaband

No affiliation, just a fan.

JaredM
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scalpel_ninja wrote:
Yes, the nubbin for the KR4 is brass.

I tried the mod on my KR4 with a #36 O-ring. The button felt worse for me. No increase in resistance and more side to side slop. I might try again if I can 3D print a gasket that sits between the button lip and tail cap to stabilize and reduce the slop. I actually use these gaskets on FW3s and it makes a really nice clicky E-switch. I just need to size it up to match the dimensions of the KR4 body.

When you say side to side slop, do you mean the SS switch cover would become loose®? Or does that mean it became more sensitive to pressure on the edge of the swtich? Or that when pressing the button, it would seem to move “off-axis”, i.e. not just straight down and back?

https://fundrazr.com/osturaband

No affiliation, just a fan.

CrashOne
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Does the lanyard ring from the KR1 fit a D4 Ti (first edition)? I now I have to sand the tail cap down to make room for a lanyard ring, but does the inner diameter of the lanyard ring fit (with or without sanding)?

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JaredM wrote:
trakcon wrote:
I put the brass nubbin over the bump on the metal button cover and it vastly improved the feel of my KR4Ti switch. It fits perfectly there, so I figured it had just been assembled wrong at the factory.

Let me know if this is right.. (again, I don’t own a KR light — yet)

The order you used was:

SS switch button > Brass nubbin > Rubber boot > Switch board ?

This means you have rubber rubber adjacent to the diaphragm switch, assuming I’m correct. More or less this is what is ultimately desired IMO to increase activation force.

This also makes me wonder how an o-ring would perform in the “trakcon” configuration…

That order is correct. It doesn’t take much force to activate, though. I always use lockout, so it’s perfect for me.

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I added a Lee Zircon 803 filter to my KR4 E21A 2200K, and it looks even better. I liked it before, but I really really like it now.

scalpel_ninja
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JaredM wrote:
When you say side to side slop, do you mean the SS switch cover would become loose®? Or does that mean it became more sensitive to pressure on the edge of the swtich? Or that when pressing the button, it would seem to move “off-axis”, i.e. not just straight down and back?

It’s a combination of the first and third issues you described. The button does not sit as snugly against the tail cap as the O-ring (at least the ones I use) are thinner than the brass nub, so there’s loss in height. This also makes the button wobbly, not moving as straight up and down and more prone to rubbing and jamming against the edge of the tail cap.

Current Collection:

Inova X5 | Maratac Titanium Inspection AAAx2 XPL-G2 swapped to Nichia 219B sw45K | Wowtac A2S NW | Thrunite Ti3 NW | FW3 CuTi XPL-HI 5000K + 18350 tube | Olight I1R EOS (de-anodized) | Convoy S2+ 7135x8 T6-3B | HDS Rotary Nichia 219B 4000K | Nitecore Cu TINI | Fraz Labs Tiny Tank 18350 | TnC Aluminum Deep Red

id30209
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That's my thought as well ^^^^^^^^^^^

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

scalpel_ninja
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Interestingly, the O-ring mod did not increase activation force for my KR4 like it did on all of my FW3s. So I didn’t bother to 3D print a larger gasket to fix the button slop. Though I might try trakcon’s configuration and see if that will make the switch action better for me.

Current Collection:

Inova X5 | Maratac Titanium Inspection AAAx2 XPL-G2 swapped to Nichia 219B sw45K | Wowtac A2S NW | Thrunite Ti3 NW | FW3 CuTi XPL-HI 5000K + 18350 tube | Olight I1R EOS (de-anodized) | Convoy S2+ 7135x8 T6-3B | HDS Rotary Nichia 219B 4000K | Nitecore Cu TINI | Fraz Labs Tiny Tank 18350 | TnC Aluminum Deep Red

scalpel_ninja
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Follow up:

I added an O-ring to trakcon’s configuration. So the order of parts from outside to inside:
Button
Brass nubbin
Rubber boot
O-ring
Switch board

By moving the brass nubbin to the button, the clicky feedback feeling increased. After adding the O-ring, it seemed to stabilize the button and is less wobbly. It’s stable enough where I don’t think I’ll need to add a gasket around the button like I did in the FW3s. The click is less pronounced than the FW3s though.

Current Collection:

Inova X5 | Maratac Titanium Inspection AAAx2 XPL-G2 swapped to Nichia 219B sw45K | Wowtac A2S NW | Thrunite Ti3 NW | FW3 CuTi XPL-HI 5000K + 18350 tube | Olight I1R EOS (de-anodized) | Convoy S2+ 7135x8 T6-3B | HDS Rotary Nichia 219B 4000K | Nitecore Cu TINI | Fraz Labs Tiny Tank 18350 | TnC Aluminum Deep Red

SammysHP
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Not sure how you all managed to put the brass nubbin between the steel button and the silicone boot. The little steel nubbin on the steel button has an OD of 3.5 mm and the brass nubbin has an ID of 3 mm. Or something has changed from early to later models.

Anyway, I tried the spacer ring between tailcap and steel button as described by someone else in this forum for the FW3A. My first try with 0.4 mm thickness was already good enough. Less wobbly, but also slightly easier to activate. Also the button does not scratch against the tailcap anymore. I’ll keep it like this for a while.

Here’s my OpenSCAD model:

$fn=100;

linear_extrude(0.4) { translate([7.5, 0]) square([20, 0.4]);

difference() { circle(d=15.8); circle(d=14.6); } }

The little string is for getting it off the bed easier without damaging it.

scalpel_ninja
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Thanks for the OpenSCAD file! It’s off your brass price does not fit on the steel portion. Maybe try printing a replacement nub?

Current Collection:

Inova X5 | Maratac Titanium Inspection AAAx2 XPL-G2 swapped to Nichia 219B sw45K | Wowtac A2S NW | Thrunite Ti3 NW | FW3 CuTi XPL-HI 5000K + 18350 tube | Olight I1R EOS (de-anodized) | Convoy S2+ 7135x8 T6-3B | HDS Rotary Nichia 219B 4000K | Nitecore Cu TINI | Fraz Labs Tiny Tank 18350 | TnC Aluminum Deep Red

ArtieT59
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Please help – completely off topic and I apologize but can anyone help me with what optic the KR4 comes with stock? 10621 / -22 / -23? I am pretty sure I know its not the -23. i ordered a -21 from Mtn electronics because i thought the KR4 came with a -22, but the -21 kind of looks like whats in my light now? I don’t want to bother Hank with these basic questions.. again..

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

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Artiet59 wrote:
Please help – completely off topic and I apologize but can anyone help me with what optic the KR4 comes with stock? 10621 / -22 / -23? I am pretty sure I know its not the -23. i ordered a -21 from Mtn electronics because i thought the KR4 came with a -22, but the -21 kind of looks like whats in my light now? I don’t want to bother Hank with these basic questions.. again..

I believe the normal KR4 comes with the 10622, and the E21A variants come with 10623. I much prefer the 10621 in my SST-20 D4’s and KR4’s.

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Thank you for the info! I will have to put in the 10621 I got from Mtn and see if there is a difference from what is stock in my KR4. They visually look very similar. Hopefully I didn’t get a 10622 sent to me.. I wish there was some marking on the optic to distinguish them. I’m new to this, there probably is some way to tell the difference

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

scalpel_ninja
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You could make a 22 optic into a 23 by sanding with 800 or 1000 grit sandpaper to make it frosted.

Current Collection:

Inova X5 | Maratac Titanium Inspection AAAx2 XPL-G2 swapped to Nichia 219B sw45K | Wowtac A2S NW | Thrunite Ti3 NW | FW3 CuTi XPL-HI 5000K + 18350 tube | Olight I1R EOS (de-anodized) | Convoy S2+ 7135x8 T6-3B | HDS Rotary Nichia 219B 4000K | Nitecore Cu TINI | Fraz Labs Tiny Tank 18350 | TnC Aluminum Deep Red

trakcon
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Artiet59 wrote:
Thank you for the info! I will have to put in the 10621 I got from Mtn and see if there is a difference from what is stock in my KR4. They visually look very similar. Hopefully I didn’t get a 10622 sent to me.. I wish there was some marking on the optic to distinguish them. I’m new to this, there probably is some way to tell the difference

You’re welcome! The 10621 and 10622 are similar looking. However, the 10621 has slightly recessed circles (lenses?) directly over the emitters, whereas the 10622 is smooth across the top. See here (not my photo): 10621. I hope that helps.

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trakcon wrote:
Artiet59 wrote:
Thank you for the info! I will have to put in the 10621 I got from Mtn and see if there is a difference from what is stock in my KR4. They visually look very similar. Hopefully I didn’t get a 10622 sent to me.. I wish there was some marking on the optic to distinguish them. I’m new to this, there probably is some way to tell the difference

You’re welcome! The 10621 and 10622 are similar looking. However, the 10621 has slightly recessed circles (lenses?) directly over the emitters, whereas the 10622 is smooth across the top. See here (not my photo): 10621. I hope that helps.

Dude, that is awesome and very helpful! I was just able to confirm I did get the 10621 thanks to that picture. Thank you!

Thank you scalpel_ninja also for the tip on sanding the 22 to a 23!

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

trakcon
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Artiet59 wrote:
trakcon wrote:
Artiet59 wrote:
Thank you for the info! I will have to put in the 10621 I got from Mtn and see if there is a difference from what is stock in my KR4. They visually look very similar. Hopefully I didn’t get a 10622 sent to me.. I wish there was some marking on the optic to distinguish them. I’m new to this, there probably is some way to tell the difference

You’re welcome! The 10621 and 10622 are similar looking. However, the 10621 has slightly recessed circles (lenses?) directly over the emitters, whereas the 10622 is smooth across the top. See here (not my photo): 10621. I hope that helps.

Dude, that is awesome and very helpful! I was just able to confirm I did get the 10621 thanks to that picture. Thank you!

Thank you scalpel_ninja also for the tip on sanding the 22 to a 23!

Any time! Let us know how you like the 21.

ArtieT59
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trakcon wrote:
Artiet59 wrote:
trakcon wrote:
Artiet59 wrote:
Thank you for the info! I will have to put in the 10621 I got from Mtn and see if there is a difference from what is stock in my KR4. They visually look very similar. Hopefully I didn’t get a 10622 sent to me.. I wish there was some marking on the optic to distinguish them. I’m new to this, there probably is some way to tell the difference

You’re welcome! The 10621 and 10622 are similar looking. However, the 10621 has slightly recessed circles (lenses?) directly over the emitters, whereas the 10622 is smooth across the top. See here (not my photo): 10621. I hope that helps.

Dude, that is awesome and very helpful! I was just able to confirm I did get the 10621 thanks to that picture. Thank you!

Thank you scalpel_ninja also for the tip on sanding the 22 to a 23!

Any time! Let us know how you like the 21.

I just popped it in the KR4 (sst-20 5000k) and.. Wow, its awesome! I recently bought that 10621 along with the 10623, 10507 and 10509 to switch my optics up. I was saving the 10621 for my “custom” (from Hank) d4v2 brass with W2’s (my first d4v2 :D) that is in route to me now, due this week, thinking I would put the 10623 in my KR4 and have a “thrower” and a “flood” edc, respectively. But now I’m scratching that and putting together a Mtn electronics order to get another 10621 for the KR4. It almost looks like it gave me 50% more throw. I know its not that much, but it is definitely noticeable over the 10622, much more then I expected! Almost looks like it throws as far as my EC03 (I just got that one in this week too, another great little torch!). No wonder why this hobby is so damn addictive.. Innocent Thanks for the help again.

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

trakcon
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Artiet59 wrote:
I just popped it in the KR4 (sst-20 5000k) and.. Wow, its awesome! I recently bought that 10621 along with the 10623, 10507 and 10509 to switch my optics up. I was saving the 10621 for my “custom” (from Hank) d4v2 brass with W2’s (my first d4v2 :D) that is in route to me now, due this week, thinking I would put the 10623 in my KR4 and have a “thrower” and a “flood” edc, respectively. But now I’m scratching that and putting together a Mtn electronics order to get another 10621 for the KR4. It almost looks like it gave me 50% more throw. I know its not that much, but it is definitely noticeable over the 10622, much more then I expected! Almost looks like it throws as far as my EC03 (I just got that one in this week too, another great little torch!). No wonder why this hobby is so damn addictive.. Innocent Thanks for the help again.

You’re welcome! I’m glad you like the results. I have 10621’s and 10507’s in most of my quads and triples. It’s made a huge difference in enjoyment of use for me.

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