Please help – completely off topic and I apologize but can anyone help me with what optic the KR4 comes with stock? 10621 / -22 / -23? I am pretty sure I know its not the -23. i ordered a -21 from Mtn electronics because i thought the KR4 came with a -22, but the -21 kind of looks like whats in my light now? I don’t want to bother Hank with these basic questions.. again..
I believe the normal KR4 comes with the 10622, and the E21A variants come with 10623. I much prefer the 10621 in my SST-20 D4’s and KR4’s.
Thank you for the info! I will have to put in the 10621 I got from Mtn and see if there is a difference from what is stock in my KR4. They visually look very similar. Hopefully I didn’t get a 10622 sent to me.. I wish there was some marking on the optic to distinguish them. I’m new to this, there probably is some way to tell the difference
Thank you for the info! I will have to put in the 10621 I got from Mtn and see if there is a difference from what is stock in my KR4. They visually look very similar. Hopefully I didn’t get a 10622 sent to me.. I wish there was some marking on the optic to distinguish them. I’m new to this, there probably is some way to tell the difference
You’re welcome! The 10621 and 10622 are similar looking. However, the 10621 has slightly recessed circles (lenses?) directly over the emitters, whereas the 10622 is smooth across the top. See here (not my photo): 10621. I hope that helps.
Thank you for the info! I will have to put in the 10621 I got from Mtn and see if there is a difference from what is stock in my KR4. They visually look very similar. Hopefully I didn’t get a 10622 sent to me.. I wish there was some marking on the optic to distinguish them. I’m new to this, there probably is some way to tell the difference
You’re welcome! The 10621 and 10622 are similar looking. However, the 10621 has slightly recessed circles (lenses?) directly over the emitters, whereas the 10622 is smooth across the top. See here (not my photo): 10621. I hope that helps.
Dude, that is awesome and very helpful! I was just able to confirm I did get the 10621 thanks to that picture. Thank you!
Thank you scalpel_ninja also for the tip on sanding the 22 to a 23!
Thank you for the info! I will have to put in the 10621 I got from Mtn and see if there is a difference from what is stock in my KR4. They visually look very similar. Hopefully I didn’t get a 10622 sent to me.. I wish there was some marking on the optic to distinguish them. I’m new to this, there probably is some way to tell the difference
You’re welcome! The 10621 and 10622 are similar looking. However, the 10621 has slightly recessed circles (lenses?) directly over the emitters, whereas the 10622 is smooth across the top. See here (not my photo): 10621. I hope that helps.
Dude, that is awesome and very helpful! I was just able to confirm I did get the 10621 thanks to that picture. Thank you!
Thank you scalpel_ninja also for the tip on sanding the 22 to a 23!
Thank you for the info! I will have to put in the 10621 I got from Mtn and see if there is a difference from what is stock in my KR4. They visually look very similar. Hopefully I didn’t get a 10622 sent to me.. I wish there was some marking on the optic to distinguish them. I’m new to this, there probably is some way to tell the difference
You’re welcome! The 10621 and 10622 are similar looking. However, the 10621 has slightly recessed circles (lenses?) directly over the emitters, whereas the 10622 is smooth across the top. See here (not my photo): 10621. I hope that helps.
Dude, that is awesome and very helpful! I was just able to confirm I did get the 10621 thanks to that picture. Thank you!
Thank you scalpel_ninja also for the tip on sanding the 22 to a 23!
Any time! Let us know how you like the 21.
I just popped it in the KR4 (sst-20 5000k) and.. Wow, its awesome! I recently bought that 10621 along with the 10623, 10507 and 10509 to switch my optics up. I was saving the 10621 for my “custom” (from Hank) d4v2 brass with W2’s (my first d4v2 :D) that is in route to me now, due this week, thinking I would put the 10623 in my KR4 and have a “thrower” and a “flood” edc, respectively. But now I’m scratching that and putting together a Mtn electronics order to get another 10621 for the KR4. It almost looks like it gave me 50% more throw. I know its not that much, but it is definitely noticeable over the 10622, much more then I expected! Almost looks like it throws as far as my EC03 (I just got that one in this week too, another great little torch!). No wonder why this hobby is so damn addictive.. Thanks for the help again.
I just popped it in the KR4 (sst-20 5000k) and.. Wow, its awesome! I recently bought that 10621 along with the 10623, 10507 and 10509 to switch my optics up. I was saving the 10621 for my “custom” (from Hank) d4v2 brass with W2’s (my first d4v2 :D) that is in route to me now, due this week, thinking I would put the 10623 in my KR4 and have a “thrower” and a “flood” edc, respectively. But now I’m scratching that and putting together a Mtn electronics order to get another 10621 for the KR4. It almost looks like it gave me 50% more throw. I know its not that much, but it is definitely noticeable over the 10622, much more then I expected! Almost looks like it throws as far as my EC03 (I just got that one in this week too, another great little torch!). No wonder why this hobby is so damn addictive.. Thanks for the help again.
You’re welcome! I’m glad you like the results. I have 10621’s and 10507’s in most of my quads and triples. It’s made a huge difference in enjoyment of use for me.
Received the soft blue camo today with Fedex but without having asked it ; took 3 days . I have a better feeling with this switch than from my other ti . So now i have e21a’s in 5000,4500 and 5000/3500 .
—
Caught a sickness . I found out i'm not alone .
p12gt, tn12v4, s1, tk15, s2+, l8, pd35tac, fd65, tk35 ue 2018, d4v2, kr4, kr1, d4sv2, fw3a, x9l, sp31v2.0, sp32av2.0, sp36blf, sp40, lt1, sp31uv, sc31pro, sc21, hs05, hs10, e07, e07x, tk18, pt40
Funny . I didn’t beleive it too when fedex rang my door ; i had received hank shipping email today, but didn’t bother to check . Can’t satisfy you today : no phone and my camera is in one of my boxes from my moving .
—
Caught a sickness . I found out i'm not alone .
p12gt, tn12v4, s1, tk15, s2+, l8, pd35tac, fd65, tk35 ue 2018, d4v2, kr4, kr1, d4sv2, fw3a, x9l, sp31v2.0, sp32av2.0, sp36blf, sp40, lt1, sp31uv, sc31pro, sc21, hs05, hs10, e07, e07x, tk18, pt40
I want to almost completely because i am so curious after reading everything n here from people that know so much about color “temperature” (I don’t know if thats even the right term). but yea, a 2000k mule sounds awesome.
Thank you Hank for getting the E21A 2000K and 2700K that we asked for. Time to buy more D4V2s.
E21a’s makes a lot of heat, more than xpl-hi . My d4v2 with E21a is heating faster than my Kr4’s with E21a .
That doesn’t sound right. E21A (except possibly mules) should be limited to 5A current, XP-L HI should consume more than 10A with a decent battery.
Is either one of your E21A flashlights a mule?
Did you calibrate the temperature sensor on all flashlights?
Is the temperature limit set to the same value on all flashlights?
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3 // I get way more privmsgs than I can respond to, so please ask in a public thread if possible, for a faster answer.
Lightenzaza wrote:
My d4v2 with E21a is heating faster than my Kr4’s with E21a .
Yes, the D4v2 has less thermal mass than the KR4, so it heats faster.
Edit: at the same power levels
If one light is running at a higher power level than the other, like a direct-drive XP-L HI vs a regulated E21A, the higher-power one should heat faster. Because 20A of power vs 5A is a much bigger difference than anything caused by the LEDs or the small difference in host size.
Given that Hank is apparently happy to stuff the KR drivers into other lights, does anyone know if it’s possible to buy them separately?
I’m not sure about the kr drivers, but recently I bought a couple d4sv2 drivers from hank without any issues. Just send him an email and see if hes willing to sell them to you.
Good instinct . I did a test with 2 fresh 30q on 2 d4v2 ti . One with xpl-hi 5000k, the other with a mix of e21a’s 3500 and 5000k . Top of the ramp . Fingers on the copper . The xpl-hi gets hotter faster and seems to cut the power sooner . I did a second test holding a kr4 ti and a d4v2 ti, both with e21a’s . The kr4 is an easy winner . I’m using 30q’s from a single purchase but they seem to have different power . I will retry those test switching batteries .
—
Caught a sickness . I found out i'm not alone .
p12gt, tn12v4, s1, tk15, s2+, l8, pd35tac, fd65, tk35 ue 2018, d4v2, kr4, kr1, d4sv2, fw3a, x9l, sp31v2.0, sp32av2.0, sp36blf, sp40, lt1, sp31uv, sc31pro, sc21, hs05, hs10, e07, e07x, tk18, pt40
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3 // I get way more privmsgs than I can respond to, so please ask in a public thread if possible, for a faster answer.
uselessuser wrote:
Given that Hank is apparently happy to stuff the KR drivers into other lights…
The D4v2 E21A driver isn’t actually a KR4 driver. It’s just … electrically compatible. Same logical design, but different physical design. An actual KR4 driver would not fit into a D4.
Given that Hank is apparently happy to stuff the KR drivers into other lights…
The D4v2 E21A driver isn’t actually a KR4 driver. It’s just … electrically compatible. Same logical design, but different physical design. An actual KR4 driver would not fit into a D4.
Which firmware build does the D4V2 E21A use? I wouldn’t want to flash the wrong version if I decide to make any changes.
Thanks.
Edit: I just remembered the map file you added. Looks like it uses the kr4-nofet firmware.
Will that FW work for the Ti version, too, with the lighted switch?
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3 // I get way more privmsgs than I can respond to, so please ask in a public thread if possible, for a faster answer.
trakcon wrote:
Which firmware build does the D4V2 E21A use?
Edit: I just remembered the map file you added. Looks like it uses the kr4-nofet firmware.
Will that FW work for the Ti version, too, with the lighted switch?
Yes, I merged lighted switch support into the KR4 firmware, so it can be used on the D4v2 Ti with E21A.
Originally I had a separate “D4v2.5” firmware for it, but the only difference from KR4 was the lighted button… so I merged them together. I don’t think I ever published new .hex files for it though, so the most recent ones on my site are still d4v2.5.
Just make sure to use the noFET version. The FET can destroy the E21A LEDs very quickly, so it should not be enabled.
Edit: I just remembered the map file you added. Looks like it uses the kr4-nofet firmware.
Will that FW work for the Ti version, too, with the lighted switch?
Yes, I merged lighted switch support into the KR4 firmware, so it can be used on the D4v2 Ti with E21A.
Originally I had a separate “D4v2.5” firmware for it, but the only difference from KR4 was the lighted button… so I merged them together. I don’t think I ever published new .hex files for it though, so the most recent ones on my site are still d4v2.5.
Just make sure to use the noFET version. The FET can destroy the E21A LEDs very quickly, so it should not be enabled.
Given that Hank is apparently happy to stuff the KR drivers into other lights…
The D4v2 E21A driver isn’t actually a KR4 driver. It’s just … electrically compatible. Same logical design, but different physical design. An actual KR4 driver would not fit into a D4.
That’s good to know, thanks. Hank said the driver has a diameter of 22 mm, and I gather it essentially runs the KR4 firmware. I’m guessing that means regulation is equal, there is a FET present (but probably disabled by default), and it can be reprogrammed using Hank’s kit?
That would be the most relevant things for me, hardware-wise.
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3 // I get way more privmsgs than I can respond to, so please ask in a public thread if possible, for a faster answer.
XP-L HI can make about 4000 to 4500 lumens at about 15 to 20 Amps. E21A stops at 5 Amps and maukka measured it at about 1200 lm.
The main appeal of E21A is that it’s high-CRI with a nice tint and a variety of good color temperatures. The clear optic isn’t optimized for E21A though, so it uses a floodier frosted optic instead. It’s a close-range flooder for high-quality illumination.
XP-L HI is more throwy and makes a lot more lumens.
I believe the normal KR4 comes with the 10622, and the E21A variants come with 10623. I much prefer the 10621 in my SST-20 D4’s and KR4’s.
Thank you for the info! I will have to put in the 10621 I got from Mtn and see if there is a difference from what is stock in my KR4. They visually look very similar. Hopefully I didn’t get a 10622 sent to me.. I wish there was some marking on the optic to distinguish them. I’m new to this, there probably is some way to tell the difference
[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749
Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180
My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100
The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561
You could make a 22 optic into a 23 by sanding with 800 or 1000 grit sandpaper to make it frosted.
Current Collection:
Inova X5 | Maratac Titanium Inspection AAAx2 XPL-G2 swapped to Nichia 219B sw45K | Wowtac A2S NW | Thrunite Ti3 NW | FW3 CuTi XPL-HI 5000K + 18350 tube | Olight I1R EOS (de-anodized) | Convoy S2+ 7135x8 T6-3B | HDS Rotary Nichia 219B 4000K | Nitecore Cu TINI | Fraz Labs Tiny Tank 18350 | TnC Aluminum Deep Red
You’re welcome! The 10621 and 10622 are similar looking. However, the 10621 has slightly recessed circles (lenses?) directly over the emitters, whereas the 10622 is smooth across the top. See here (not my photo): 10621. I hope that helps.
Dude, that is awesome and very helpful! I was just able to confirm I did get the 10621 thanks to that picture. Thank you!
Thank you scalpel_ninja also for the tip on sanding the 22 to a 23!
[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749
Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180
My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100
The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561
Any time! Let us know how you like the 21.
I just popped it in the KR4 (sst-20 5000k) and.. Wow, its awesome! I recently bought that 10621 along with the 10623, 10507 and 10509 to switch my optics up. I was saving the 10621 for my “custom” (from Hank) d4v2 brass with W2’s (my first d4v2 :D) that is in route to me now, due this week, thinking I would put the 10623 in my KR4 and have a “thrower” and a “flood” edc, respectively. But now I’m scratching that and putting together a Mtn electronics order to get another 10621 for the KR4. It almost looks like it gave me 50% more throw. I know its not that much, but it is definitely noticeable over the 10622, much more then I expected! Almost looks like it throws as far as my EC03 (I just got that one in this week too, another great little torch!). No wonder why this hobby is so damn addictive..
Thanks for the help again.
[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749
Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180
My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100
The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561
You’re welcome! I’m glad you like the results. I have 10621’s and 10507’s in most of my quads and triples. It’s made a huge difference in enjoyment of use for me.
Received the soft blue camo today with Fedex but without having asked it ; took 3 days . I have a better feeling with this switch than from my other ti . So now i have e21a’s in 5000,4500 and 5000/3500 .
Caught a sickness . I found out i'm not alone .
p12gt, tn12v4, s1, tk15, s2+, l8, pd35tac, fd65, tk35 ue 2018, d4v2, kr4, kr1, d4sv2, fw3a, x9l, sp31v2.0, sp32av2.0, sp36blf, sp40, lt1, sp31uv, sc31pro, sc21, hs05, hs10, e07, e07x, tk18, pt40
Pics or it didn’t happen?
- the best way to predict the future is to create it -
Funny . I didn’t beleive it too when fedex rang my door ; i had received hank shipping email today, but didn’t bother to check . Can’t satisfy you today : no phone and my camera is in one of my boxes from my moving .
Caught a sickness . I found out i'm not alone .
p12gt, tn12v4, s1, tk15, s2+, l8, pd35tac, fd65, tk35 ue 2018, d4v2, kr4, kr1, d4sv2, fw3a, x9l, sp31v2.0, sp32av2.0, sp36blf, sp40, lt1, sp31uv, sc31pro, sc21, hs05, hs10, e07, e07x, tk18, pt40
New stuff in . E21A in 2000 and 2700k .
Caught a sickness . I found out i'm not alone .
p12gt, tn12v4, s1, tk15, s2+, l8, pd35tac, fd65, tk35 ue 2018, d4v2, kr4, kr1, d4sv2, fw3a, x9l, sp31v2.0, sp32av2.0, sp36blf, sp40, lt1, sp31uv, sc31pro, sc21, hs05, hs10, e07, e07x, tk18, pt40
Damn.. I may have to get a 2000K mule……………
https://fundrazr.com/osturaband
No affiliation, just a fan.
I want to almost completely because i am so curious after reading everything n here from people that know so much about color “temperature” (I don’t know if thats even the right term). but yea, a 2000k mule sounds awesome.
[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749
Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180
My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100
The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561
Thank you Hank for getting the E21A 2000K and 2700K that we asked for. Time to buy more D4V2s.
E21a’s makes a lot of heat, more than xpl-hi ( not true, see further ) . My d4v2 with E21a is heating faster than my Kr4’s with E21a .
Caught a sickness . I found out i'm not alone .
p12gt, tn12v4, s1, tk15, s2+, l8, pd35tac, fd65, tk35 ue 2018, d4v2, kr4, kr1, d4sv2, fw3a, x9l, sp31v2.0, sp32av2.0, sp36blf, sp40, lt1, sp31uv, sc31pro, sc21, hs05, hs10, e07, e07x, tk18, pt40
Is either one of your E21A flashlights a mule?
Did you calibrate the temperature sensor on all flashlights?
Is the temperature limit set to the same value on all flashlights?
On the max CC setting it would get hotter due to lower vF, AL pcb, no thermal pad wouldn’t it?
Yes, the D4v2 has less thermal mass than the KR4, so it heats faster.
Edit: at the same power levels
If one light is running at a higher power level than the other, like a direct-drive XP-L HI vs a regulated E21A, the higher-power one should heat faster. Because 20A of power vs 5A is a much bigger difference than anything caused by the LEDs or the small difference in host size.
I noticed Tailcap with trit slot but no trit pre-installed is missing as an option for some flashlights, like KR4 Ti.
Given that Hank is apparently happy to stuff the KR drivers into other lights, does anyone know if it’s possible to buy them separately?
I’m not sure about the kr drivers, but recently I bought a couple d4sv2 drivers from hank without any issues. Just send him an email and see if hes willing to sell them to you.
Good instinct . I did a test with 2 fresh 30q on 2 d4v2 ti . One with xpl-hi 5000k, the other with a mix of e21a’s 3500 and 5000k . Top of the ramp . Fingers on the copper . The xpl-hi gets hotter faster and seems to cut the power sooner . I did a second test holding a kr4 ti and a d4v2 ti, both with e21a’s . The kr4 is an easy winner . I’m using 30q’s from a single purchase but they seem to have different power . I will retry those test switching batteries .
Caught a sickness . I found out i'm not alone .
p12gt, tn12v4, s1, tk15, s2+, l8, pd35tac, fd65, tk35 ue 2018, d4v2, kr4, kr1, d4sv2, fw3a, x9l, sp31v2.0, sp32av2.0, sp36blf, sp40, lt1, sp31uv, sc31pro, sc21, hs05, hs10, e07, e07x, tk18, pt40
The D4v2 E21A driver isn’t actually a KR4 driver. It’s just … electrically compatible. Same logical design, but different physical design. An actual KR4 driver would not fit into a D4.
Which firmware build does the D4V2 E21A use? I wouldn’t want to flash the wrong version if I decide to make any changes.
Thanks.
Edit: I just remembered the map file you added. Looks like it uses the kr4-nofet firmware.
Will that FW work for the Ti version, too, with the lighted switch?
Yes, I merged lighted switch support into the KR4 firmware, so it can be used on the D4v2 Ti with E21A.
Originally I had a separate “D4v2.5” firmware for it, but the only difference from KR4 was the lighted button… so I merged them together. I don’t think I ever published new .hex files for it though, so the most recent ones on my site are still d4v2.5.
Just make sure to use the noFET version. The FET can destroy the E21A LEDs very quickly, so it should not be enabled.
Thank you.
That’s good to know, thanks. Hank said the driver has a diameter of 22 mm, and I gather it essentially runs the KR4 firmware. I’m guessing that means regulation is equal, there is a FET present (but probably disabled by default), and it can be reprogrammed using Hank’s kit?
That would be the most relevant things for me, hardware-wise.
if the E21 builds heat slower than the XPL HI, what are the lumen differences?
XPL HI and SST 20 seem like a wash lumen wise… but if the E21 builds less heat……………
XP-L HI can make about 4000 to 4500 lumens at about 15 to 20 Amps. E21A stops at 5 Amps and maukka measured it at about 1200 lm.
The main appeal of E21A is that it’s high-CRI with a nice tint and a variety of good color temperatures. The clear optic isn’t optimized for E21A though, so it uses a floodier frosted optic instead. It’s a close-range flooder for high-quality illumination.
XP-L HI is more throwy and makes a lot more lumens.
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