E21A 2700K, 2000K back in stock.

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ToyKeeper
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XP-L HI can make about 4000 to 4500 lumens at about 15 to 20 Amps. E21A stops at 5 Amps and maukka measured it at about 1200 lm.

The main appeal of E21A is that it’s high-CRI with a nice tint and a variety of good color temperatures. The clear optic isn’t optimized for E21A though, so it uses a floodier frosted optic instead. It’s a close-range flooder for high-quality illumination.

XP-L HI is more throwy and makes a lot more lumens.

justanotherguy
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Thanks TK
Again Smile

My choice has been made

pol77
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I would like to petition Hank to use retaining rings instead of glue to secure the drivers. I do not know about the other lights, as I only own 4 variants of the D4V2 Ti and a KR4 Ti, but I am sure mine do non have retaining rings.

That would enable enthusiasts to replace any faulty drivers and upgrade to new driver versions.

I hope enough of us want this to convince Hank.

trakcon
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pol77 wrote:
I would like to petition Hank to use retaining rings instead of glue to secure the drivers. I do not know about the other lights, as I only own 4 variants of the D4V2 Ti and a KR4 Ti, but I am sure mine do non have retaining rings.

That would enable enthusiasts to replace any faulty drivers and upgrade to new driver versions.

I hope enough of us want this to convince Hank.

I agree completely.

Lightenzaza
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justanotherguy wrote:
if the E21 builds heat slower than the XPL HI, what are the lumen differences?

XPL HI and SST 20 seem like a wash lumen wise… but if the E21 builds less heat……………


Don’t own a sst-20 . The top of the ramp is similar with a slight advantage for the the xpl-hi ; but of course you have the turbo for the xpl-hi witch is almost inexistant for the e21a .

Caught a sickness . I found out i'm not alone .
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lightdecay
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For flashlights like D4V2 with E21A, which does not use FET turbo, I like to set the top of the ramp to be the same as turbo.

Bardo219
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The Cracked and Splash look amazing, remind me of Trapper Keeper designs around late 80s / early 90s. That’s a full compliment, they are bad @$$. Hope they are available around Christmas.

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Bardo219 wrote:
The Cracked and Splash look amazing.

Yeah, it was between grey cammo, cracked or splash for me. I finally bit the bullet on splash with a violet trit and xpl-hi 5000k.

I can barely wait!

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Very tempted by the K4 E21A. Will cooler CCTs be available?

(Now, if only Convoy could make a quad E21A S2+)

Artiet59
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Bardo219 wrote:
The Cracked and Splash look amazing, remind me of Trapper Keeper designs around late 80s / early 90s. That’s a full compliment, they are bad @$$. Hope they are available around Christmas.

Trapper Keeper! Thats it! Wow I haven’t thought of those in 20+ years lol. These new KR4’s are AMAZING. you have a sick light coming your way!
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The KRs look great, but I'm quite partial to the excellent side switch.

Are there any compact throwers, with side switch, coming up? Something like a D1/K1, but with a head the size of the KR1?

Lost my beloved D4 EDC (with 219C) recently and will replace it with a new D4v2, but I would like to get a thrower as well!

Maybe a D4v2 with SST-20s and 10621 optics would do the job? Or is that still mainly a flood light but with more throw than from Nichias?

Of the somewhat autistic personality, who enjoys spending hours on end cross referencing numbers and data to find that perfect sweet spot and perhaps a percent of gain here or there.
But also old enough to have learned that numbers seldom tell the whole story...

BurningPlayd0h
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Imp wrote:

The KRs look great, but I’m quite partial to the excellent side switch.


Are there any compact throwers, with side switch, coming up? Something like a D1/K1, but with a head the size of the KR1?


Lost my beloved D4 EDC (with 219C) recently and will replace it with a new D4v2, but I would like to get a thrower as well!


Maybe a D4v2 with SST-20s and 10621 optics would do the job? Or is that still mainly a flood light but with more throw than from Nichias?

The D4 with any currently existing LEDs won’t come anywhere close to the beam profile of a dedicated thrower, or even a compact one like a D1/KR1.

A question of my own, does anyone know if the tailcap retaining rings in recent KR4s is glued or has locktite? I wanted to remove mine to try it without the metal switch cover but cant seem to get the ring to budge. I do vaguely remember Hank saying something about the first batches of KR4 having some easily remedied connection issue that is now fixed in production though too.

hinbli
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I just received KR4 with E21A/5000K in black. It is a very nice light. I like it very much.

There are some questions about the AUX LED’s. This is not my first light with Anduril with AUX LED’s, so I think I am navigating through the functions OK.

Everything works fine with the high mode. All the colors are nicely defined and beautiful.

The low mode is a different story. (I mean high/low mode = the brightness.)

When any mixed color with green is on, only the green is visible. So, the colors are supposed to be sequenced from red, yellow, green, cyan, blue, violet, while, rainbow, and volts when 7H. However, with the low mode, it goes from red, green, green, green, blue violet, green, partial rainbow, and partial volts. (partial = any mixed color with green = green).

So, when the AUX LED’s are on blinking, the colors are good through the high phase but not good with the same issues through the low phase (green only for the mix).

I am using the freshly charged battery.

Do you think there is something wrong with my new KR4? By the way, the light from the main LED’s are very nice.

Thanks for the help.

BurningPlayd0h
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hinbli wrote:
I just received KR4 with E21A/5000K in black. It is a very nice light. I like it very much.

There are some questions about the AUX LED’s. This is not my first light with Anduril with AUX LED’s, so I think I am navigating through the functions OK.

Everything works fine with the high mode. All the colors are nicely defined and beautiful.

The low mode is a different story. (I mean high/low mode = the brightness.)

When any mixed color with green is on, only the green is visible. So, the colors are supposed to be sequenced from red, yellow, green, cyan, blue, violet, while, rainbow, and volts when 7H. However, with the low mode, it goes from red, green, green, green, blue violet, green, partial rainbow, and partial volts. (partial = any mixed color with green = green).

So, when the AUX LED’s are on blinking, the colors are good through the high phase but not good with the same issues through the low phase (green only for the mix).

I am using the freshly charged battery.

Do you think there is something wrong with my new KR4? By the way, the light from the main LED’s are very nice.

Thanks for the help.


It’s simply that at very low power levels those emitters have widely varying brightness depending on color. The several Emisar/Noctigon with aux lights I’ve had all had the same behavior – red is much dimmer than green and blue on the “low” setting.
hinbli
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BurningPlayd0h wrote:
The several Emisar/Noctigon with aux lights I’ve had all had the same behavior – red is much dimmer than green and blue on the “low” setting.

If this situation is normal or common with Emisar/Noctigon with AUX lights, I am OK with it. I was just curious if my example was broken.

Probably, it can be fixed by changing the resistor for the AUX LED’s to match the forward voltage/current. I don’t think I will do it, though. They are very tiny. The wires to the AUX board are small and crowded.

I often use yellow in low mode with the other Anduril light with AUX LED’s. Maybe, I am in the minority for the preference to use low usually.

Thanks for the info.

stephenk
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Interested to see some “real world” beam shots of the K4 with 2200 and 2700k CCT.

ToyKeeper
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For the aux LEDs, the brightness on high mode is determined by the resistors on the aux board. There is one for each color. Hank balances these to keep brightness consistent and make color combinations work.

However, the low mode’s brightness is determined by the pull-up resistor built into the attiny chip. It can’t really be changed. Really, it probably shouldn’t work at all… but it does. So it’s added as an extra feature.

It switches between high and low mode by connecting and disconnecting the attiny’s internal resistor. So there isn’t much we can do about balancing the brightness of different colors in low mode.

hinbli
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Thank you very much for the information. It all makes sense.

The colors are well defined and beautiful for the high mode. The low mode is still useful, just like the brightness of trit. Indeed, it is lucky to have the low mode.

Sloth
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Is there an ETA on some color restock?

Been eyeing the cyan D4s for a bit but been out of stock ever sinch march-ish.

Noticed the K1 is down to creamy only, which isn’t bad since it’s the one I like best but.. options are always nice.

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Sloth wrote:
Is there an ETA on some color restock?

Been eyeing the cyan D4s for a bit but been out of stock ever sinch march-ish.

Noticed the K1 is down to creamy only, which isn’t bad since it’s the one I like best but.. options are always nice.

Hank Wang wrote:
MNLegoBoy wrote:
Hank will the green and cyan d4sv2’s come back in stock, or were they a limited run
I’m afraid they are limited run.
Sloth
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That's very unfortunate. I hope he considers doing another run of cyan at least. It seems to be the most popular color.

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Klayking wrote:
If you prefer high CRI, get the SST-20 4000K (or 3000K if you want a warm, candle-like light). Beware that the 4000K is notorious for being a quite green at low to medium output levels, if that sort of stuff bothers you at all. I haven't had much luck with 219Cs from Emisar either, with all of them being somewhat green too, but YMMV. If you want maximum power and throw for cheaper than XP-L HI, get the SST-20 5000K, or 6500K if you want a bluer tint rather than a whiter one. As with most SST-20s, these might look a little green at low and medium output levels, but they're cheaper than XP-L HI so it's a perfectly acceptable tradeoff. Keep in mind that these are low CRI however. I think the general consensus these days is SST-20 4000K for high CRI, and SST-20 5000K for maximum performance.

Thanks for this very useful information.

How do the E21A (various temps) compare with the above LEDs?

Ultrafire C3 2AA / Nitecore LR10 / Manker E03H / Fenix HL10 / Zebralight H501R + H51W / DQG Hobi / Astrolux M01 / CooYoo Quantum Ti (lost) / BlackWater Kite Al / Emisar D4v2 (Nichia E21A)

Artiet59
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Imp wrote:

The KRs look great, but I’m quite partial to the excellent side switch.


Are there any compact throwers, with side switch, coming up? Something like a D1/K1, but with a head the size of the KR1?


Lost my beloved D4 EDC (with 219C) recently and will replace it with a new D4v2, but I would like to get a thrower as well!


Maybe a D4v2 with SST-20s and 10621 optics would do the job? Or is that still mainly a flood light but with more throw than from Nichias?

I just ordered my first D4v2 from Hank, in brass and requested it with W2 emitters. I bought a 10621 from mtn and it actually throws really well. From a visual observation it appears close to my D4sV2 throw with sst20 5000k. Obviously it is not a nice warm temp / color like a nichia, but I did it in n attempt to have a far throwing useful beam & edc, and I’m VERY happy with it! The W2’s costed extra but Hank accommodated greatly. Hank is the Best

Cemoi
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Hi all,

I'm ready to order a Noctigon KR4 as my very first 18650 light, and first Anduril UI.

I only need to choose the LED that best answers my preferences. I lake neutral to warm colors, good CRI although I don't really require > 95, more than 85 will do.

From former messages in this thread I understand the new Nichia E21A is high CRI, the 4500K version should be fine with me colorwise. I also read that the light will get heat more than with other LEDs for the same amount of lumens.

How will the E21A compare with the other NW options:

  1. XPL-HI V2 4000K (CRI=???)
  2. SST20 4000K 95 CRI

in terms of heat, lumens, runtime, flood vs throw, and colors?

ToyKeeper wrote:
E21A stops at 5 Amps and maukka measured it at about 1200 lm.
Can anybody please point me to the relevant post by Maukka?

On the other hand, are there any GITD accessories for this light, like for the FW3A (tail switch cover, front gasket, O-ring to be placed around the light body, etc)?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Ultrafire C3 2AA / Nitecore LR10 / Manker E03H / Fenix HL10 / Zebralight H501R + H51W / DQG Hobi / Astrolux M01 / CooYoo Quantum Ti (lost) / BlackWater Kite Al / Emisar D4v2 (Nichia E21A)

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My purely subjective experience with the KR4 with E21A 4500K is the tint is a nice all purpose tint. It’s great for indoor and outdoor use for close to medium distance lighting (due to the floody optic; I tried the throwy optic and it had artifacts). I can use it for all but work, as it’s too big to carry in scrubs and I prefer the smaller Reylight with the Nichia 219B for an even rosier tiny for skin examination.

In comparison with the XP-L-HI and SST20, they definitely are greener with poorer brown color rendering but still useable for daily non-clinical settings. The E21A has not generated excessive heat in my daily use; I set ramp max at 130/150 and rarely hit that max and rarely use turbo. In real life use, I haven’t found much difference in heat issues between the E21A and the other emitters.

TL;DR: You’ll likely be happy with the E21A, it’s a good with floody optics and great for all purpose use.

Current Collection:

Inova X5 | Maratac Titanium Inspection AAAx2 XPL-G2 swapped to Nichia 219B sw45K | Wowtac A2S NW | Noctigon KR4 Ti/Cu E21A 4500K + 18350 tube | Thrunite Ti3 NW | Wurkkos FC11 x2 swapped to Nichia 219B 3500K | FW3 CuTi XPL-HI 5000K + 18350 tube | Olight I1R EOS (de-anodized) | Convoy S2+ 7135x8 T6-3B | SkyLumen LEPvn | Nitecore D10 Custom with Anduril | Jetbeam RRT01vn 3000K | Thrunite T10 Ti | HDS Rotary Nichia 219B 4000K

Lightenzaza
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I have been comparing 5000 and 4500 . If you need real white and a little more vibrant color, you go to the 5000 . Otherwise the warmer tint of the 4500 helps to have a more relax sight, not being induce in focusing .

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Frostcream
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This thing is cool. Non-trit shot taken under the light of SST-20 3000k.

Anyone EDC a colorful series Emisar or Noctigon? I’m curious how durable the anodization is. I’d like to EDC this, but it looks so perfect!

IMG-20200925-182806

IMG-20200925-182831

Artiet59
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Frostcream wrote:
This thing is cool. Non-trit shot taken under the light of SST-20 3000k.

Anyone EDC a colorful series Emisar or Noctigon? I’m curious how durable the anodization is. I’d like to EDC this, but it looks so perfect!

IMG-20200925-182806

IMG-20200925-182831

Drool…. Looks even better here than on Hank’s site.. I really don’t need one but… damn.

justanotherguy
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Hank said the ano wears like regular ano.
I’m not entirely convinced, ano is a surface coating that is harder than the aluminum substrate…

On Ti I think it’s an etching where the distance between ‘etches’ affects the color reflected that we see. I bet an ano Ti knife guy would know more definitively…

Frostcream
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Artiet59 wrote:
I really don’t need one but… damn.

I didn’t either, but here we are!

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