lightdecay wrote:

I just received my latest order from Hank. I like warm light, but I have to say that I did not expect E21A 2700K R9080 to be this magical.

Colors look perfect, and it does not look like a typical 2700K led at all. It looks pure white on a white wall, there is no trace of yellow. Even SST-20 2700K JA3, which is known to be below BBL, looks a little bit yellow. At first I was sure that I actually received E21A 3500K R9080 by mistake. Only after comparing it directly to SST-20 2700K JA3 was I able to convince myself that it really is 2700K.

I now have D4V2 flashlights with these warm emitters:

• E21A 2000K R9050 (received today)
• E21A 2200K R9050
• E21A 2700K R9080 (received today)
• SST-20 2700K JA3
• XP-L HI 2850K T6 8B (received today)

I still like all of them, but E21A 2700K R9080 is by far the best. There is no comparison. I have Lee Zircon 802 and 803 minus green filters, but even with a filter none of the other leds look magical like this one does. Perhaps Lee Zircon filters are not suitable for very warm leds, I do not know. I use E21A 2200K R9050 with a Lee Zircon 803 filter, and it does make it look a little bit better.

I suspect the reason E21A 2700K R9080 looks the best is that it has the highest R9 and the lowest DUV of them all. R9 makes a lot of difference. You should definitely get it if you like warm light.

Hank Wang wrote:

There are two shipping options in the check out process. 1. Free shipping (2~4 weeks) 2. Expediated shipping ($18 shipping fee, 1 week delivery)

Guess I should have chosen expedited shipping. My order placed 10 days ago has not shipped yet.

TexasToasted wrote:

Guess I should have chosen expedited shipping. My order placed 10 days ago has not shipped yet.

You know….. China has been on holiday since the first of October till the 8th so pretty much everything came to a close till festivities ended….

Souichirou wrote:

TexasToasted wrote:

Guess I should have chosen expedited shipping. My order placed 10 days ago has not shipped yet.

You know….. China has been on holiday since the first of October till the 8th so pretty much everything came to a close till festivities ended….

XP-E2 Amber makes E21A 2000K R9050 look like a standard 2700K incandescent light bulb with perfect color rendering.

Beamshot: E21A 2000K R9050 vs XP-E2 Amber.

will34 wrote:

Is there any update regarding the deep carrying clip for the KR4?

It has gone quiet which is helping me save/plan for the perfect KR4

Artiet59 wrote:

Thank you for this! I am new to this and have been torn about which one of the e21 emitters to get my next Hank light in. Awesome input!

You should definitely get one in 4500K. I have a few Nichia 291B sw45k (also 4500K) emitters, which were being already praised for being a nice neutral tint, but in my opinion, that is too rosy, and even looks a bit rusty compared to E21A 4500K.

E21A 4500K is simply the best high power neutral tint, you can get currently. It is about perfect.

By the way, I am also expecting back 3500K into the available tint list, which is again a very good tint.

adam7027 wrote:

Artiet59 wrote:

Thank you for this! I am new to this and have been torn about which one of the e21 emitters to get my next Hank light in. Awesome input!

You should definitely get one in 4500K. I have a few Nichia 291B sw45k (also 4500K) emitters, which were being already praised for being a nice neutral tint, but in my opinion, that is too rosy, and even looks a bit rusty compared to E21A 4500K.

E21A 4500K is simply the best high power neutral tint, you can get currently. It is about perfect.

By the way, I am also expecting back 3500K into the available tint list, which is again a very good tint.

Souichirou wrote:

TexasToasted wrote:

Guess I should have chosen expedited shipping. My order placed 10 days ago has not shipped yet.

You know….. China has been on holiday since the first of October till the 8th so pretty much everything came to a close till festivities ended….

Got my shipping notice yesterday

Hank Wang wrote:

lazerEagle wrote:

will34 wrote:

Is there any update regarding the deep carrying clip for the KR4?

It has gone quiet which is helping me save/plan for the perfect KR4

The new clip is already under production, it should be available within this month.

Any pictures of what the clip looks like? or drawing?

I was disappointed in my d4v2 2700k. It seemed greenish. It could be because this chart shows its duv being higher than the others; right on the bbl while the others are below it. However, i then swapped it for 3000k and didn’t like that either. The warm ones may just be too ochre. Next will be 2000+3500.

I concur that e21a 4500k is the best tint so far. That’s definitely the one to buy now, but when 3500k returns that will give people more options.

I’ve modded two of these new emisars and consider it easy. The hardest part is getting the 6 wires back through the center of the mcpcb afterwords, but they can be pulled out and pushed back in to make this easier. There’s a lot of extra room on them. You also need to solder the main wires cleanly so that the aux board fits back in (duh).

atobe wrote:

Hank Wang wrote:

lazerEagle wrote:

will34 wrote:

Is there any update regarding the deep carrying clip for the KR4?

It has gone quiet which is helping me save/plan for the perfect KR4

The new clip is already under production, it should be available within this month.

Any pictures of what the clip looks like? or drawing?

Side Note – I used a propane torch, 6’ vise and small hammer to straighten and re-bend my kr4 clip into a deep carry. It came out.. as a deep carry. kind’ve off center and tarnished (the heat destroyed the polished look) but it worked great! i can share a picture if anyone’s interested.

Problem is, the heat weakened the metal and it broke, a couple of times. I fixed the break 2x but now its not worth it. I am debating doing it to my kr1 clip but i don’t have another clip backup after that.

Cant wait for the REAL deep carry to arrive in the store!

I have KR4 E21A in both 4500k and 3500k. Could not pick between them, would be like picking a favorite child. 3500k beautiful warm rosy tint. 4500k extremely “clean”, neutral, rosy but not overly pink like sw45k. These are my 2 most carried lights by far at the moment. Buy both if funds allow!!

mbp wrote:

I have KR4 E21A in both 4500k and 3500k. Could not pick between them, would be like picking a favorite child. 3500k beautiful warm rosy tint. 4500k extremely “clean”, neutral, rosy but not overly pink like sw45k. These are my 2 most carried lights by far at the moment. Buy both if funds allow!!

Hank Wang wrote:

E21A, R9080, 3500K in stock.

Thanks

Could not resist, ordered a D4V2.

Can D4SV2 be configured with E21A?

why tho? waste of capacity/power/size/thermal ability e21a sips the power compared to the regular emitters.. even makes 18350 cells cool and viable

The Ledil Angie optic is a great optic. For all the LEDs I have used it with it is FAR superior to the smaller quads. If you are going to obsess about ultra high CRI might as well have a better optic and longer runtime.

I don’t know how good 7-LED optics are, but a “D4SV2” could probably fit 7x E21A, because it is similar size to Fireflies E07 (but Fireflies E07 does not offer E21A as an option).

We would just need a D4SV2-sized 7.5A CC driver and a D4SV2-sized 7x E21A-suitable board for 7-LED optics.

Or maybe we could have a “D4SV2” mule with 32x or even more E21A.

Anyone with D4V2/KR4 Nichia 219C 4000k? I would like to know the tint. I have a Lumintop HL3A and a Convoy T2 with this led and they have a very good neutral tint, however the Lumintop Tool AA with the same led has more yellowish tint which I don’t like so much.

lightdecay wrote:

I don’t know how good 7-LED optics are, but a “D4SV2” could probably fit 7x E21A, because it is similar size to Fireflies E07 (but Fireflies E07 does not offer E21A as an option).

We would just need a D4SV2-sized 7.5A CC driver and a D4SV2-sized 7x E21A-suitable board for 7-LED optics.

Or maybe we could have a “D4SV2” mule with 32x or even more E21A.

Oooh, 7xE21A D4Sv2 would be a must-buy for me. Off the shelf, LEDiL ANNA would not fit, as it’s like 40mm diameter. The E07 uses a custom proprietary optic.

i LOVE my D4sV2, and wondered why there was no option for mule on Hanks site..

Hank was great about the issue I had with my light after I contacted him and asked me to return the light with paid shipping and sent a replacement that is fully functional I am glad to say.That took about two weeks.

Although there is still some odd behaviour with this light though....

CRX wrote:

 

Now tell us more about that button and lighted grooves...

@hank

does the K1 usb-c charging port support power delivery charging method using usb-c to usb-c cable + wall adaptor/power bank?

CRX wrote:

Hank was great about the issue I had with my light after I contacted him and asked me to return the light with paid shipping and sent a replacement that is fully functional I am glad to say.That took about two weeks.

Although there is still some odd behaviour with this light though….

 

id30209 wrote:

Now tell us more about that button and lighted grooves…

Artiet59 wrote:

What is that copper ring around where the tailcap meets the stubby body tube?? drool. this vid looks like witch craft by the way…

pol77 wrote:

if I go to Turbo from there by double click and then double click to go back from turbo to floor of 1/150, the LEDs go off, while the light still think it is on. A floor of 2/150 acts the same. 3/150 works fine.

Sorry for reacting lately to this post (to which ToyKeeper answered in post #1895), but I have just received my very first Anduril flashlight (an Emisar D4v2 with E21A). I found out the same behaviour, but in fact the LEDs do light up again after going off, after 15 seconds (if the light is still cold) to 30 seconds  (if the light is very hot).

Moreover, this doesn't only happen when going directly from Turbo to Low, but also when ramping down from a "medium" level to Low, although the delay is much shorter in this case (a couple of seconds).The delay between the LEDs going off and relight seems to be both #1 temperature and #2 initial brightness, dependent. The brighter and/or hotter the light, the longer the delay to "reactivate" the LEDs at low level.