Mark M wrote:

https://imgur.com/gallery/vpGvt1k

K9.3 Came in today.

Looks like warm light for the switch color, same as what I got in my K9.3. I got the E21A 4500k with SST-20 2700k on CH2.

Nice! Here are the 3 I have coming. Was very tough to decide

1)
Color Black
Switch back light color Red
CH1 (9 inner LEDs) E21A, R9050 Warm White, 2000K
CH2 (3 outer LEDs) SST-20 Deep Red, 660nm
2)
Color Dark Grey
Switch back light color Green
CH1 (9 inner LEDs) E21A, R9080 Warm White, 2700K
CH2 (3 outer LEDs) W1 Yellow (Osram KY CSLNM1.FY)
3)
Color Green
Switch back light color Cyan
CH1 (9 inner LEDs) Neutral White – XP-L HI V2 5D, 4000K
CH2 (3 outer LEDs) SST-20 Deep Red, 660nm

Did a quick comparison shot of some E21A tints. These are all from Hank in different KR4/D4v2 variants. Sorry, don’t have any 2700K or 5000K.

I’d like to see the 2200K come back. I think I prefer it slightly over the 2000K. The difference is subtle though.

Thank you Rayoui. That’s a great way to get a feeling for choosing the right tint. The 2000K / 2200K tints will be great to substitute any real candles in one‘s living room. Just fire up the candle mode in K9.3 and enjoy the cozy atmosphere.

Rayoui wrote:

Did a quick comparison shot of some E21A tints. These are all from Hank in different KR4/D4v2 variants. Sorry, don’t have any 2700K or 5000K.

I’d like to see the 2200K come back. I think I prefer it slightly over the 2000K. The difference is subtle though.

You could do a mix with 3×2000K and a higher CCT. For example with 4500K I get 2269K duv -0.0060 (calculated from independent measurements at 1.25A per LED). In my opinion a negative duv makes warm temperatures look so much better.

Edit : used the wrong measurements, 2506K duv -0.0094 is the right result (makes more sense), so a lower CCT than 4500K should be used, 3500 (~2350K duv -0.0040) or 2700K (~2180K duv -0.0016).

Anyone with a KR1 and is able to kindly measure the reflector for me? Am wondering if it will fit a D1…

thefreeman wrote:

You could do a mix with 3×2000K and a higher CCT. For example with 4500K I get 2269K duv -0.0060 (calculated from independent measurements at 1.25A per LED). In my opinion a negative duv makes warm temperatures look so much better.

Edit : used the wrong measurements, 2506K duv -0.0094 is the right result (makes more sense), so a lower CCT than 4500K should be used, 3500 (~2350K duv -0.0040) or 2700K (~2180K duv -0.0016).

That’s certainly an option. I might do this if I decide to pick up another one.

I have an FW3A that I mixed 2700K, 3500K and 5000K LH351D and it resulted in a nice 3600K combined CCT and a beautiful tint. I want to do something similar at some point with a KR4. I just hate messing with the aux board and those tiny wires.

I’d also be up for another run of 2200K. They had great tint, and the difference between 2000K was noticeable. I’d probably buy another K9.3 and KR-4 with those emitters. I also reset the W/B, if you don’t mind to 2200K to show off some of that rosy tint of the 2200K E21A. I believe the 2000K from Hank’s second batch was on/slightly above the BBL while the 2200K was BBL.

JaredM wrote:

Is that amber or warm white under the switch?

Photon Master wrote:

Artiet59 wrote:

I cant believe it took me a month to try doing this. FW3x deep carry clip fits great on the d4v2 with a little light modification. the new KR4 deep carry clip attachment ring was just a little too big, plus i had an extra one of these. thought i’d share.

!https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/7104/tEufWM.jpg!

That switch is cool looking. What color is that?

cetary wrote:

I’d also be up for another run of 2200K. They had great tint, and the difference between 2000K was noticeable. I’d probably buy another K9.3 and KR-4 with those emitters. I also reset the W/B, if you don’t mind to 2200K to show off some of that rosy tint of the 2200K E21A. I believe the 2000K from Hank’s second batch was on/slightly above the BBL while the 2200K was BBL.

I measured 2000K and 4500K a few weeks ago, 2000K was on the BBL : https://imgur.com/a/iP8KoU7

Artiet59 wrote:

Photon Master wrote:

Artiet59 wrote:

I cant believe it took me a month to try doing this. FW3x deep carry clip fits great on the d4v2 with a little light modification. the new KR4 deep carry clip attachment ring was just a little too big, plus i had an extra one of these. thought i’d share.

!https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/7104/tEufWM.jpg!

That switch is cool looking. What color is that?

It’s the warm white option on the brass version

I’m a huge fan of the 2000K. My KR4 is sitting on my desk right now, filling my office with soft golden light.

Will you be getting any cyan 18350 tubes for the kr4 Hank?

All copper KR1 has been listed: https://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-kr1-all-copper-tail-e-switch-18650-poc...

trakcon wrote:

All copper KR1 has been listed: https://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-kr1-all-copper-tail-e-switch-18650-poc...

Oh wow… What emitter are you guys getting? Osram green is tempting

Really wish Hank would offer these with a clear coating so the looks would stay exactly like this.

I’m hoping Hank’s next light is fusion powered and made of diamond coated adamantium (:

TiCu Hank, TiCu KR1...

id30209 wrote:

TiCu Hank, TiCu KR1…

That’s the version I would like to get. I really like the copper and am tempted, but it comes in at 0.723 Lbs with a 30Q installed. Maybe that’s a reason to get it. But I’d still like to see the TiCu version.

trakcon wrote:

All copper KR1 has been listed: https://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-kr1-all-copper-tail-e-switch-18650-poc...

and normal KR1 no longer sold..

mortuus wrote:

trakcon wrote:

All copper KR1 has been listed: https://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-kr1-all-copper-tail-e-switch-18650-poc...

and normal KR1 no longer sold..

It’s probably just out of stock. Hank’s listing tend to disappear when that happens.

I went ahead and ordered the KR1 in copper with the W2 and the Green K9.3 with E21A 2000k and the surrounds with SST20 6500.

I’m seriously thinking getting kr1 cu in sst40 5000k. Never thought I’d want the kr1 with that emitter, but the more I’ve thought about it today the more I realize it would be an ideal all purpose light. Enough lumens, enough throw, good enough for me cct (I like the sst40 5000k). Really seems like the best option for me, considering I have the w2 aluminum kr1 already and I don’t buy multiples of the same light with the same emitter. Really wish the kr1 came with xhp35 option. That’d be perfect, xhp35 in 4000k. I considered the xpl hi 4000k, but the trade off for the better cct doesn’t seem worth it compared to the osram (50% more throw, same lumen) and sst40 (70% more lumen, 25% less throw)…

also, is the xpl hi 4000k high cri or no?

I’m for one excited af for the all cu version. Heavy is fine with me. And I’ll buff it on the buffing wheel because I like the new look. Sold two flashlights today so I could buy it. Just waiting on Hank to respond on how to make note for deep carry clip, and I need an optic for d4sv2
As well.

trakcon wrote:

mortuus wrote:

trakcon wrote:

All copper KR1 has been listed: https://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-kr1-all-copper-tail-e-switch-18650-poc...

and normal KR1 no longer sold..

It’s probably just out of stock. Hank’s listing tend to disappear when that happens.

Ordered KR1 copper with sst40 5000k, plus copper 18350 tube.

Thanks Hank!

id30209 wrote:

TiCu Hank, TiCu KR1…

I asked for this a while ago, he said no plans. I hope thats changed.

I’m thinking about ordering a D4v2 copper with e21a 3500k high cri with warm white as button backlight. I’d like to film a review on it. Anyone have this model? how durable is the rubber boot for the button? i was thinking of also getting a raised bezel and the 18350 tube. thoughts?

Thefossilchannel wrote:

I’m thinking about ordering a D4v2 copper with e21a 3500k high cri with warm white as button backlight. I’d like to film a review on it. Anyone have this model? how durable is the rubber boot for the button? i was thinking of also getting a raised bezel and the 18350 tube. thoughts?