21700 D4KTi COLORFUL version is available

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UltraMagnus
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Any idea when the copper d4v2 will be back in stock?

Sunnysunsun
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quedecree wrote:

Good to know about being able to pull out reflector and lense still stays in place. I assume to make a “mule” of sorts? I’m going to try this .Also, maybe an appropriate sized oring would help in case of fw3a, or a light where lense was moving

Yes – I’m doing this with the D4v2 in 3500k – having a wide soft flood is excellent for an indoors / caravan lamp/bedside light. Will try the o-ring trick but I’m thinking there’s nothing to stop the o-ring from falling back to the led once the reflector is removed. An inner sleeve may work – although now I have a few Emisar/Noctigons, I’ll just use these if I want a complete flood. UV mule incoming.

Be careful with this! I believe there’s nothing holding down the mcpcb firmly to the shelf except the stickiness of thermal paste. No additional screws as far as I know so the mcpcb might lose the direct thermal path at some point which could be disastrous.

ArtieT59
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Yea that is so true. If it’s not screws down that may be a really bad idea

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quedecree
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Do the two phillips heads screws in the center not hold it in place?

ArtieT59
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Yes, if there’s screws they most likely hold it down

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Sunnysunsun
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Silly me, I forgot the D4 had them. Yeah I just took a look at mine and it looks like they do keep the mcpcb securely in place

hodor
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Anyone else get a D4S recently with an uneven tailcap? Mine wobbles when put tail-cap down (head-up). First world problems Blushing

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Interesting, I got one last week. I will have to check now. Did you get magnetic tail? Just curious.

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hodor
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Yeah magnetic. Also got one without magnet and was sent a D4SV1, which is a much darker shade but perfectly flat and can be set down with a satisfying thunk. I assume magnetic power is the same (uneven to flat surface vs flat to flat) so not a big deal but it’s the little things that affect how a product feels Blushing

Also, I think I prefer the old style without the rounded edges. Or maybe I just don’t like change LOL

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hodor wrote:
Yeah magnetic. Also got one without magnet and was sent a D4SV1, which is a much darker shade but perfectly flat and can be set down with a satisfying thunk. I assume magnetic power is the same (uneven to flat surface vs flat to flat) so not a big deal but it’s the little things that affect how a product feels Blushing

Also, I think I prefer the old style without the rounded edges. Or maybe I just don’t like change LOL

That’s interesting, I was sent an old D4S cap with mine as the spare tail cap without magnet. The anodising doesn’t match as well as the model, guess old parts are being palmed off which is a bit of a cheek.

Edited to add – Just tested my D4SV2 in green, grey and cyan, all three received since February 2021 and all three have a slight wobble tail standing an a flat plate of glass, all three tail caps are not flat.

Bob_McBob
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I’m a little confused about the difference between the various constant current drivers. Most discussion seems to indicate there are only two versions—5A and 7.5A—and that both come straight from the KR4, but D4V2s with this driver have a bunch of components on the back that don’t appear in any photos I can find of the KR4 itself. Is the D4V2 version different from the KR4 version, is this a 5A and 7.5A driver, or what?

Next question: Has anyone disassembled and compared the 5A and 7.5A driver? Is it just a resistor difference or what?

hodor
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Jasetaylor wrote:

Sad times Sad

Bob_McBob wrote:

I’d also be interested. I don’t think anyone’s compared them. I notice on my recent D4SV2 W2 that the MCPCB is now white which might indicate that it also uses one of the regulated drivers.
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hodor wrote:
I’d also be interested. I don’t think anyone’s compared them. I notice on my recent D4SV2 W2 that the MCPCB is now white which might indicate that it also uses one of the regulated drivers.

All three of my D4SV2s (W2 / XP-L HI / SST20) have the same white driver board.

Regarding the KR4 driver and the KR4 driver fitted as standard to the cyan D4V2, I own both of these models and didn’t make any request regarding the drivers, mine match the image shown by Bob_McBob. As I did not make any special request regarding the drivers I assume both are the standard 5A and the components fitted to the spring side of the D4V2 version are due to the smaller PCB diameter.

That image is mine btw, from my reddit account.

https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/kfpdjn/new_d4v2_with_unknow...

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Jasetaylor wrote:
hodor wrote:
I’d also be interested. I don’t think anyone’s compared them. I notice on my recent D4SV2 W2 that the MCPCB is now white which might indicate that it also uses one of the regulated drivers.

All three of my D4SV2s (W2 / XP-L HI / SST20) have the same white driver board.

Regarding the KR4 driver and the KR4 driver fitted as standard to the cyan D4V2, I own both of these models and didn’t make any request regarding the drivers, mine match the image shown by Bob_McBob. As I did not make any special request regarding the drivers I assume both are the standard 5A and the components fitted to the spring side of the D4V2 version are due to the smaller PCB diameter.

That image is mine btw, from my reddit account.

https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/kfpdjn/new_d4v2_with_unknow...


Did i read awhile back that you bought all three of your D4s’ in the last couple months? I only ask because my two d4s’ i bought last month also have the white driver, but the D4s i bought July 2020 had a red driver. I don’t know if that matters, but i did notice it when my two new ones arrived (W2 and sst20 4000k).

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Mark M
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The new tailcap without a lanyard hole is just magical, makes so much of a difference in the hand, amazing.

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Jasetaylor wrote:
Regarding the KR4 driver and the KR4 driver fitted as standard to the cyan D4V2, I own both of these models and didn’t make any request regarding the drivers, mine match the image shown by Bob_McBob. As I did not make any special request regarding the drivers I assume both are the standard 5A and the components fitted to the spring side of the D4V2 version are due to the smaller PCB diameter.

I hadn’t considered the different diameter, and it makes sense components would have to be relocated to fit. So at the very least there are separate D4V2 and KR4 versions of the driver, which can be customized in either 5A or 7.5A. What I’d really like to know is whether it’s just something like a resistor change I can play around with later. I can’t find any photos of the business side of this driver.

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Artiet59 wrote:
Did i read awhile back that you bought all three of your D4s’ in the last couple months? I only ask because my two d4s’ i bought last month also have the white driver, but the D4s i bought July 2020 had a red driver. I don’t know if that matters, but i did notice it when my two new ones arrived (W2 and sst20 4000k).

That is correct, all ordered and received in the last two months, interesting.
One observation which differs from a typical KR4, all three have stable moonlight mode which is set to ramp level 1 by default whereas the KR4 is set at 3.

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Mark M wrote:
The new tailcap without a lanyard hole is just magical, makes so much of a difference in the hand, amazing.

Only applicable to the aluminium D4V2 at the moment.

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Jasetaylor wrote:
Artiet59 wrote:
Did i read awhile back that you bought all three of your D4s’ in the last couple months? I only ask because my two d4s’ i bought last month also have the white driver, but the D4s i bought July 2020 had a red driver. I don’t know if that matters, but i did notice it when my two new ones arrived (W2 and sst20 4000k).

That is correct, all ordered and received in the last two months, interesting.
One observation which differs from a typical KR4, all three have stable moonlight mode which is set to ramp level 1 by default whereas the KR4 is set at 3.


yes, i had definitely noticed that! i actually started a small thread about the low modes a few months back, in which TK responded to me. She said it had to do with the kr4 driver having a courser low ramp mode due to the amount of power channels, which at the time i did not understand. https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1697535#comment-1697535

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quedecree
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Hank – or anyone – do we have any specifications on the UV mules? And are there any special considerations (other than eye safety) to take into account when using the light? Or do or the normal drivers/thermal step down look after the UV led’s as normal?

btw, my sister in law just bought a house in some rocky granite country and we went looking for scorpions with the i5UV olight – wow, LOTS of scorpions!! Most around the 40 – 50mm size (black rock scorpions I think) and they just look like glowing toys under the UV. Our Australian species are generally small and not dangerous to humans although they evidently can give a painful sting.

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There should be normal temperature stepdowns with anduril (If he’s even putting anduril in the Uv mules)

UV LEDs need a high voltage so they won’t be driven too hard with direct drive.

You should wear polycarbonate glasses (almost any pair of plastic safety glasses will do, just double check to see that it blocks the Uv)

quedecree
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My normal prescription glasses are blue blockers / transitions – if I point the UV lights at them, very little UV goes through and the lenses will also go dark. I can’t find a transmission spectrum graph for them, but I’m hoping they’re ok for the odd bit of reflection that I might get.

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Jasetaylor wrote:
Artiet59 wrote:
Did i read awhile back that you bought all three of your D4s’ in the last couple months? I only ask because my two d4s’ i bought last month also have the white driver, but the D4s i bought July 2020 had a red driver. I don’t know if that matters, but i did notice it when my two new ones arrived (W2 and sst20 4000k).

That is correct, all ordered and received in the last two months, interesting.
One observation which differs from a typical KR4, all three have stable moonlight mode which is set to ramp level 1 by default whereas the KR4 is set at 3.

Are the moon levels the same at those ramp levels or how do they compare? (5A CC (LVL3) vs 1+FET (LVL1))

I’m looking for a new house light and the FET+1 is low, but not low enough.

Also, does anyone know if these CC drivers are considered Buck or use some other kind of current regulation?

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If I remember correctly the moon and both are similar once you set the KR4 to level one. Kr4 level 3 is high, But easy enough to set to level 1 ramp. I’m pretty sure the regulation is linear Constant current. No buck or boost.

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So I don’t have to bother hank- does anyone know if any of the Nichia emitters offered are able to go into the D4SV2? I assume the E 21a’s can’t go in because the driver is not regulated? Maybe Hank has 219’s left? Can 219- go into D4sV2 ?

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I also wanted to have Nichia 219C in my D4V2, have contacted Hank and he replied only 219C in 5000K available in a few. I am loking for the 4000K, I have not decided whether I will go with the Nichia 219C 5000K or the SST20 4000K.

Artiet59 wrote:
So I don’t have to bother hank- does anyone know if any of the Nichia emitters offered are able to go into the D4SV2? I assume the E 21a’s can’t go in because the driver is not regulated? Maybe Hank has 219’s left? Can 219- go into D4sV2 ?

“Come again, please, come again, Whoever you are. Religious, infidel, heretic or pagan. Even if you promised a hundred times, And, a hundred times you broke your promise, This door is not the door of hopelessness and frustration. This door is open for everybody. Come, come as you are.” ~ Mawlana Jalaludin Rumi

mbp
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I have 219C 4000k in a KR4, you should be aware that the ones Hank got have a donut hole/dark spot in the center of the beam with the standard optic. Not sure if it would be the same in D4Sv2, but I had to swap my KR4 to the frosted optic to fix the problem. I don’t mind that at all for the KR4 but I wouldn’t want to use a floody optic in D4Sv2, kind of defeats the purpose.

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mbp wrote:
I have 219C 4000k in a KR4, you should be aware that the ones Hank got have a donut hole/dark spot in the center of the beam with the standard optic. Not sure if it would be the same in D4Sv2, but I had to swap my KR4 to the frosted optic to fix the problem. I don’t mind that at all for the KR4 but I wouldn’t want to use a floody optic in D4Sv2, kind of defeats the purpose.

Mine (KR4 219C 4000k Carclo 10622) doesn’t have any donut hole. Have you tried to unescrew the bezel to check if the lens is centered?
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There is quite a difference between the throwier 10621 and the still throwy (but not as much) 10622.

Mpb- Was your 219c with the donut hole using the 10622 (standard from Hank) or the throwier 10621? I’m just curious. Because I may try and get a 5000k 219c kr4 depending on which one you were using. I don’t mind using 10622 (the Hank “standard”) but I’m not going with frosted. I always prefer 10621, I don’t have any e21a to worry about bc I know they don’t work well with that optic.

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mbp
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alex64 wrote:
mbp wrote:
I have 219C 4000k in a KR4, you should be aware that the ones Hank got have a donut hole/dark spot in the center of the beam with the standard optic. Not sure if it would be the same in D4Sv2, but I had to swap my KR4 to the frosted optic to fix the problem. I don’t mind that at all for the KR4 but I wouldn’t want to use a floody optic in D4Sv2, kind of defeats the purpose.
Mine (KR4 219C 4000k Carclo 10622) doesn’t have any donut hole. Have you tried to unescrew the bezel to check if the lens is centered?

Yes, no issue with fitment. I have noticed this issue with several other 219C lights I have, and I know of at least one other person who got a D4v2 w/219C 4000k and had the same darker spot. It is not apparent all the time, maybe wholly unnoticed if you are less picky than me.

Artiet59 wrote:
There is quite a difference between the throwier 10621 and the still throwy (but not as much) 10622.

Mpb- Was your 219c with the donut hole using the 10622 (standard from Hank) or the throwier 10621? I’m just curious. Because I may try and get a 5000k 219c kr4 depending on which one you were using. I don’t mind using 10622 (the Hank “standard”) but I’m not going with frosted. I always prefer 10621, I don’t have any e21a to worry about bc I know they don’t work well with that optic.

10622, had to go to 10623 to fix the issue.

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