Emisar DT8 flashlight in stock

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varbos
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I’m trying to understand why the LEDs are in a 4×2 arrangement. Instead of a more conventional 2-3-2 (yes, I know, one fewer LED).

Is it just to be kooky or is there some practical advantage?

Hank Wang
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Tubercle wrote:
Needs a 21700 version of this light, more juice for the 8 emitters.

We wish the light as small as possible, as pocketable as possible, while 21700 will make the light significantly bigger,
which is not our intention.

https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.

Firelight2
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Tubercle wrote:
Needs a 21700 version of this light, more juice for the 8 emitters.

How about 2×18650 in side-by-side configuration?

Could be done by having a single head that has sockets for two standard D4 tubes.

Mark M
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Firelight2 wrote:
Tubercle wrote:
Needs a 21700 version of this light, more juice for the 8 emitters.

How about 2×18650 in side-by-side configuration?

Could be done by having a single head that has sockets for two standard D4 tubes.

The thought of that makes me smile. It would be ridiculous but cool. I imagine using it would look like water dousing. Big Smile

Tinman
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Ordered Black XPL hi raised switch ring amber backlight with magnet.

Hank Wang
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Firelight2 wrote:
Tubercle wrote:
Needs a 21700 version of this light, more juice for the 8 emitters.

How about 2×18650 in side-by-side configuration?

Could be done by having a single head that has sockets for two standard D4 tubes.

Technically ok, but when to use 2*18650, it will be hard to change the batteries, since you can not remove the screws every time to
change the batteries. Or to use the built-in charger, the light will become more bulky.

https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.

ch1ir
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Hank Wang wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
Tubercle wrote:
Needs a 21700 version of this light, more juice for the 8 emitters.

How about 2×18650 in side-by-side configuration?

Could be done by having a single head that has sockets for two standard D4 tubes.

Technically ok, but when to use 2*18650, it will be hard to change the batteries, since you can not remove the screws every time to
change the batteries. Or to use the built-in charger, the light will become more bulky.

Hank can you mix mix sst and osram?

Emisar D⁴, Astrolux C8, BLF A6, Sofirn sp36aV2, Reylight Mini Pineapple, BLF 348 KillZone, Lumintop IYP07, Emisar D18, Boruit D10, Manker e01, Ultrafire z1, Massdrop titanium AAA, Astrolux HL01, Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia, Tacklife LFL3A, Astrolux FT03, Zanflair T1

Hank Wang
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ch1ir wrote:
Hank Wang wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
Tubercle wrote:
Needs a 21700 version of this light, more juice for the 8 emitters.

How about 2×18650 in side-by-side configuration?

Could be done by having a single head that has sockets for two standard D4 tubes.

Technically ok, but when to use 2*18650, it will be hard to change the batteries, since you can not remove the screws every time to
change the batteries. Or to use the built-in charger, the light will become more bulky.

Hank can you mix mix sst and osram?


Yes, we can mix the LED, but since those two type of LEDs have different VF, not sure how well they work together.

https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.

Mark M
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Hank Wang wrote:
ch1ir wrote:
Hank Wang wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
Tubercle wrote:
Needs a 21700 version of this light, more juice for the 8 emitters.

How about 2×18650 in side-by-side configuration?

Could be done by having a single head that has sockets for two standard D4 tubes.

Technically ok, but when to use 2*18650, it will be hard to change the batteries, since you can not remove the screws every time to
change the batteries. Or to use the built-in charger, the light will become more bulky.

Hank can you mix mix sst and osram?


Yes, we can mix the LED, but since those two type of LEDs have different VF, not sure how well they work together.

I just want to mention this is a generally a bad idea. The Vf of a diode is dependent on its temperature, the current supplied to each type of emitter will be different and most likely not going to result in the output or beam you think it will unless the Vf is closely matched. Remember we aren’t running resistors to each LED with this driver.

tiry31
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Hank wrote:
Just got a small batch XP-L HI T6 8D LED in stock, 2800K, 90CRI, we will not put it for sale on the site, if you like it, please order the XP-L HI V2 5D 4000K version on the site, and send us an email, so that we can use XP-L HI T6 8D LED for the light you purchase.

I am interested in this emiter.
How does it compare to the SST 20 or E21A 2700 K ?
Is it on the green or the rosy side ?

ch1ir
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Hank Wang wrote:
ch1ir wrote:
Hank Wang wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
Tubercle wrote:
Needs a 21700 version of this light, more juice for the 8 emitters.

How about 2×18650 in side-by-side configuration?

Could be done by having a single head that has sockets for two standard D4 tubes.

Technically ok, but when to use 2*18650, it will be hard to change the batteries, since you can not remove the screws every time to
change the batteries. Or to use the built-in charger, the light will become more bulky.

Hank can you mix mix sst and osram?


Yes, we can mix the LED, but since those two type of LEDs have different VF, not sure how well they work together.

Thanks for the info, I just liked the idea, will it be osram w1 or W2?

I also like the idea of xpl hi 2800k I appreciate you guys and of course you hank

Emisar D⁴, Astrolux C8, BLF A6, Sofirn sp36aV2, Reylight Mini Pineapple, BLF 348 KillZone, Lumintop IYP07, Emisar D18, Boruit D10, Manker e01, Ultrafire z1, Massdrop titanium AAA, Astrolux HL01, Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia, Tacklife LFL3A, Astrolux FT03, Zanflair T1

Lux-Perpetua
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Hank Wang wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
Tubercle wrote:
Needs a 21700 version of this light, more juice for the 8 emitters.
How about 2x18650 in side-by-side configuration? Could be done by having a single head that has sockets for two standard D4 tubes.
Technically ok, but when to use 2*18650, it will be hard to change the batteries, since you can not remove the screws every time to change the batteries. Or to use the built-in charger, the light will become more bulky.

How about adopting some ideas from Nitecore‘s EC4GTS? (pictures borrowed from here).

 

 

 

Kos70
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[quote = Hank Wang] [quote = Tubercle] Требуется версия этого светильника 21700, больше энергии для 8 излучателей. [/ quote] Мы желаем, чтобы свет был как можно меньше и компактнее, в то время как 21700 сделает свет значительно больше, что не является нашим намерением. [/ quote]

The thickness is no more than 2 mm, and the length does not increase at all if you remove the eyelet for the lace and possibly the magnet.

Frostcream
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Hank said they didn’t want it bulky.

Two 18650 would make it much more bulky. Sure there are major benefits to 2 cells as well, but I personally prefer Hank’s approach.

adam7027
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Lux-Perpetua wrote:

Hank Wang wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
Tubercle wrote:
Needs a 21700 version of this light, more juice for the 8 emitters.
How about 2x18650 in side-by-side configuration? Could be done by having a single head that has sockets for two standard D4 tubes.
Technically ok, but when to use 2*18650, it will be hard to change the batteries, since you can not remove the screws every time to change the batteries. Or to use the built-in charger, the light will become more bulky.

How about adopting some ideas from Nitecore‘s EC4GTS? (pictures borrowed from here).

 

 

This carrier tube looks nice, but it needs to be parallel 2×18650, and not serial 2×18650, like in this picture.

Dmitriyrus
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Hank Wang wrote:
.

Hi Hank. Could you post a general photo with all possible button colors? I can’t figure out which color of the button should I choose.

pol77
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I received my D4V2 Ti with XPL-HI T6 8D emitters and made some measurements to compare the max output level to other Hank lights I own. I will post them here, as a point of refference for anyone that is interested. Included, are 2 D4V2 Ti lights with Nichia 219b emitters, which I modded myself. All lights use the standard driver except the E21A lights that use the 5A CC driver.

 

According to my measurements, Hank's lumen values are quite optimistic. I have calibrated my setup with 3 professionaly measured lights and all Olights that I measure are spot on (Olight is known for giving accurate lumen values). That said, the lights are still very bright, just not as bright as advertised.

 

Here are my measurements. All values are at startup. The batteries used were a 20A 18650 and a 10A 18350.

 

 

D4V2 Ti

XPL-HI V3 3A

D4V2 Ti

XPL-HI T6 8D

D4V2 Ti

219b sw45k

D4V2 Ti

219b sw30

D4V2 Ti

E21A 3500K

KR4 Ti

E21A 2700K

KR4 Ti

E21A 2200K

18650 3693 2365 1634 1455 1041 949 775
18350 2991 1961 1478 1292 1041 949 775

 

The (very) first impression on the T6 8D emitters is that they are very warm and nice. They are actually warmer than the E21A 2700K but not as warm as the E21A 2200K, so I would guess they should be somewhere in the 2500K area, but I do not have the equipment to measure that. They seem to have a pleasant tint, below BBL, but next to the 219b sw30 they look greener by comparisson, albeit warmer.

 

Colours rendered under the T6 8D pop quite nicely and the reds are much better than the R9 value of the emitters suggests.

 

All in all, a very nice emitter. I still prefer the 219b emitters, but a 62.5% increase in brightness while being also about 500K warmer and maintaining a >90CRI is a definite win for me.

pol77
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Hank Wang wrote:
Yes, we can mix the LED, but since those two type of LEDs have different VF, not sure how well they work together.

I guess a Ti version would not make much sense because of the design of the head. But are you going to make a copper version of the DT8?

Dmitriyrus
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I found some pictures on Reddit. Do I understand correctly that cyan and green switch will be the brightest?


!

pol77
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At the request of my esteemed friend, jon_slider…
Shot with the white balance set manually to 5500K.

Marc E
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pol77 wrote:

According to my measurements, Hank’s lumen values are quite optimistic. I have calibrated my setup with 3 professionaly measured lights and all Olights that I measure are spot on (Olight is known for giving accurate lumen values). That said, the lights are still very bright, just not as bright as advertised.


Appreciate you taking measurements but IIRC Olights are also known for having cool tints, and from what i’ve read on here meters don’t always read consistently across tints so it may be that while your setup is good for cool white it may not be accurate for warm white. Is that a possibility?
Marc E
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Hank, does the DT8 have 2 MCPCBS and optics side by side covering 4 LEDs each or is it 1 optic and 1 MCPCB for all 8 LEDs?

pol77
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I calibrate my measuring equipment with 3 professionally measured lights, at 3 different CCTs, ranging from cool to warm.

It may not be a professional integrating sphere but it is as accurate as it can get, for what it is.

zoulas
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Dmitriyrus wrote:
I found some pictures on Reddit. Do I understand correctly that cyan and green switch will be the brightest?


!
!https://i.imgur.com/pPjXPTC_d.webp?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium!

That can’t be someone’s collection, that’s over $1000 bucks.

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Hey Hank,

Any chance of making a variable tint version of the Emisar D4?

For variable tint, you would need 2 warm emitters and 2 cool white emitters. (probably SST-20s would work best). They would need to be on separate channels so you would likely need a custom quad star.

But apart from the star, everything else can be done with stock components. Anduril 2 comes with built-in support for variable tint lights so you can use existing firmware.

Hank Wang
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Firelight2 wrote:
Hey Hank,

Any chance of making a variable tint version of the Emisar D4?

For variable tint, you would need 2 warm emitters and 2 cool white emitters. (probably SST-20s would work best). They would need to be on separate channels so you would likely need a custom quad star.

But apart from the star, everything else can be done with stock components. Anduril 2 comes with built-in support for variable tint lights so you can use existing firmware.

D4V2 with 4 emitters may too dim for the variable tint, I assume 10+ emitters will make much more sense.

https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.

Hank Wang
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Marc E wrote:
Hank, does the DT8 have 2 MCPCBS and optics side by side covering 4 LEDs each or is it 1 optic and 1 MCPCB for all 8 LEDs?
It’s 2 optics on one single MCPCB.

https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.

Firelight2
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Hank Wang wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
Hey Hank,

Any chance of making a variable tint version of the Emisar D4?

For variable tint, you would need 2 warm emitters and 2 cool white emitters. (probably SST-20s would work best). They would need to be on separate channels so you would likely need a custom quad star.

But apart from the star, everything else can be done with stock components. Anduril 2 comes with built-in support for variable tint lights so you can use existing firmware.

D4V2 with 4 emitters may too dim for the variable tint, I assume 10+ emitters will make much more sense.

I have a Sofirn IF25 which uses 2× 3000K SST20 and 2× 6000K SST20 with variable tint. It actually works quite well and is plenty bright enough. The light is just a bit big and lacks Anduril. A D4v2 with the same 4 emitters and variable tint would be perfect I think.

adam7027
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Hank Wang wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
Hey Hank,

Any chance of making a variable tint version of the Emisar D4?

For variable tint, you would need 2 warm emitters and 2 cool white emitters. (probably SST-20s would work best). They would need to be on separate channels so you would likely need a custom quad star.

But apart from the star, everything else can be done with stock components. Anduril 2 comes with built-in support for variable tint lights so you can use existing firmware.

D4V2 with 4 emitters may too dim for the variable tint, I assume 10+ emitters will make much more sense.

I still say that D18 would deserve more variants (and the corresponding driver upgrades), like this tint mixing idea, or a version with E21A emitters (2 channels of 9A driver, 1A/emitter in total, could be with no tint mixing, or with tint mixing as well).

(Bottom line: Maybe I ask way too much but somewhat bigger (more throwy) TIR optics could be also used in a 10+ emitter flashlight – but that would mean a flashlight head redesign as well).

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zoulas wrote:
Dmitriyrus wrote:
I found some pictures on Reddit. Do I understand correctly that cyan and green switch will be the brightest? ! !https://i.imgur.com/pPjXPTC_d.webp?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium!
That can’t be someone’s collection, that’s over $1000 bucks.
Really? Big Smile

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