The Fabled Nichia 219B - still relevant?

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jon_slider
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I think saturation just shows whatever is there, more intensely

it does not change the tint, and it does not change the color temperature
its just a way to turn up the colors, to make them more obvious, and exaggerated, imo

I agree it is very difficult to get a photo to look like what our eyes see, especially photos without a consistent white balance reference.. I propose daylight white as the best reference, 5600k

what our eyes see, changes at night, compared to during the day, because of our brain using different white balance references

that is why I try to always include a cool white reference in my photos, and why I include a familiar Nichia..

I look forward to getting some first hand experience with the LH351, once I receive the light generously offered by contactcr. So far, I do see some pink in some of the pics posted..

I respect those of you with LH351 experience are getting more lumens than with a 219b, and that you seem happy with the CRI and tint.

xevious
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Sometimes it feels like the world will end once the absolute perfect tint is finally found.

So, may the search always continue. Wink
Caleb
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So shaving a 351 lowers the color temp, but what does it do to the CRI? Has anyone measured that?

moderator007
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Caleb wrote:
So shaving a 351 lowers the color temp, but what does it do to the CRI? Has anyone measured that?

I linked Djozz’s test with a 351C back in” post #56”:http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1520560#comment-1520560.
Caleb
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moderator007 wrote:
Caleb wrote:
So shaving a 351 lowers the color temp, but what does it do to the CRI? Has anyone measured that?
I linked Djozz’s test with a 351C back in” post #56”:http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1520560#comment-1520560.

Thanks a bunch!!

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Instead of saturating images to show tint, I find it’s more revealing to normalize the brightness of each individual pixel. This basically eliminates differences in brightness, showing only the pure tint. The algorithm is really simple… just scale the brightness up until one of its color channels hits 100%. The color is otherwise unchanged.

Also, sometimes I blur the image first before putting it through the disco machine, to blend nearby pixels and reduce the impact of jpeg artifacts.

For example, given this beam shot someone posted on reddit… (I forget who; it seems to be deleted now)

Here’s what the disco machine spits out:

I think it’s a fine example of the “Cree rainbow” effect.

jon_slider
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ToyKeeper wrote:
normalize the brightness of each individual pixel
I see green and purple.. I dont have your skill set to do pixel corrections.. that looks like an XP-G3? Here it is saturated:

.

contactcr wrote:
jon_slider wrote:
..

I modded the newest generation of Tool AAA with the honeycomb TIR with a shaved LH351D. The honeycomb TIR made it go even lower and only dropped to 4500K vs the Sofirn C01S I did that was 4000K and 0.0 Duv with a similarly shaved emitter.

Modded Tool AAA:

CCT = 4490K (Duv -0.0031)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 94.2 [ R9 = 69.5 ]

Thanks for sending me the Tool. The LED is nice, and by itself does seem slightly pink. Nice beam, and makes the palm of my hand look natural.

Only when compared to my sw45 and sw45k, does the LH351 look golden, not green though:

here is a saturated version

and here is a very rough attempt to correlate the saturated colors to a tint and color temperature chart

I think the LH351D, shaved or not, looks like a nice LED, thanks @contactcr for the generous sharing

Is the 219b still relevant? To me yes.

contactcr
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With CCT and Duv you can accurately plot where it falls on that line. You might be surprised

jon_slider
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contactcr wrote:
With CCT and Duv you can accurately plot where it falls on that line. You might be surprised

yes, I see the numbers you provided. I see the negative Duv and the CCT.. its a nice LED and I thank you for sending it, very generous.
ToyKeeper
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jon_slider wrote:
Here it is saturated exaggerated

I like how saturation makes it totally obvious what direction the tint deviates from white… but I don’t like how it exaggerates the amount of deviation. It’s misleading, making things look worse than they really are. I can tell which direction it goes in, but not how much.

So I usually stick to a method which leaves the tint unchanged but normalizes the brightness to compensate for variance in different parts of the beam. A slightly off-white tint will still look only slightly off-white, instead of being exaggerated all the way to a saturated neon color.

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