TK's Emisar D4V2 review

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Klayking
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bquinlan wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
What’s wrong with 18th-century English furniture fashion? Got a thing against rococo ornamentation?

I just narrowly avoided snorting hot coffee out of my nose.

—Bob Q
I’m English, and I feel like I have missed a joke I should have understood…
contactcr
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You missed a joke about furniture from the 1700s, shame on you.

hcanning
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kanton wrote:
DB Custom wrote:
Totally impressed that anyone could actually feel the extra weight of a small PCB (which has more holes than surface area) and 8 SMD auxiliary lights. Those extra few grams are killer!

Those aux lights for me have the same effect as putting funny stickers and a keychain onto an EDC light. Completely unnecessary. But nice quote mining there!

Don’t get me wrong, I have nothing against aux lights in other lights I own, e.g the E07. But this is more of a shelf/look at it and drool light, not something I use as an actual EDC. I also see that many (probably most) people here love their aux leds everywhere but I simply personally don’t like the “AUX LIGHT EVERY FLASHLIGHT!!!!” movement I feel is going on in recent times.

What I don’t like I about Anduril is the amount of stuff I don’t need and I can activate by accident on the one hand and that stuff I use often is overcomplicated in a way that does not suit my personal needs on the other. An example of both would be momentary mode, which I use quite often as default when I am outside at night. First of all it is easy to get into muggle mode accidentially – 6 instead of 5 clicks, and confirmation is a single flash of the light in both cases so you don’t know you made a mistake unless you want to use it. Not possible with the original D4 firmware, momentary is only 4 clicks with nothing mapped to 5 clicks and being confirmed by 3 short flashes.
And I also want it to be on turbo every time. I have no need for any other mode. But TK made it so that momentary is the brightness of the regular level you used last. So after you noticed your mistake by testing it, I have to unscrew the bezel because unlike D4 there is no way out of momentary. Then I have to manually ramp the brightness up to turbo (double tap to turbo is not working for this), turn the light off (because unlike D4 momentary can only be reached from off state), press the button 5 times to get the same result I get on the D4 by simply clicking 4 times (regardless of if the light was on or off).

So in short, the original D4 firmware fits my needs much better. Which also brings me to the (maybe off-topic) question if the original D4 firmware can be flashed onto the FW3A.

If you don’t want a light with aux LEDs and all the bells and whistles of the Anduril firmware, then I think you’re in the wrong thread! It’s an enthusiast light from a manufacturer who aims their products at folks who love to tinker and are happy to accept fun yet-superfluous features. If you want a solidly-made light with a simple UI and minimal extraneous functionality, buy a Fenix or Olight.

I’m also confused at how you can hate Anduril yet be happy with NarsilM – they’re very similar!

DB Custom
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FWIW, I will most likely replace the Nichia 219’s with Samsung LH351D in U6 5000K 80 CRI variant and re-flash the MCU as needed. Sure wouldn’t be the first time, but would be the first for the particular MCU used. Wink Will probably have to call on my friends here for some help, most likely already expected. lol Nearly a thousand builds behind me and somehow I feel like I’m starting over… again…

pint
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well that didnt last long….

Everything was working fine last might, came home form work today to find the button had popped off, put the button back on ( although it wont seat correctly) battery in, and nothing – dead.

pint
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a few problems:

Terry Oregon
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pint wrote:
well that didnt last long.... Everything was working fine last might, came home form work today to find the button had popped off, put the button back on ( although it wont seat correctly) battery in, and nothing - dead.

 

Ouch, I would speculate that something over-heated, which explains (1) why it's dead and (2) heat caused air pressure to increase, behind the button, causing it to pop off.

You've changed the battery?

 

 

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Taschenrechner
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An user at the German flashlight forum (TLF) had a similar problem: https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/emisar-d4-v2-laber-und-bestel...

The flashlight turned on by itself and burned a hole in the holster. The button popped of too. Maybe your d4v2 turned on by itself too?

pint
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the battery was only changed as it wouldnt work, when carrying it ive developed a habbit of switching it off ( twsit to tailcap) to prevent pocket activation . ther report on the German forum is worrying, as i was hoping to be able to leave it powered up with the AUX LEDs on so it could be easily found in a tent, where it was located when found was a relativly safe place, however if it was in a tent/near combustible material the outcome could have been very different, looks like the same thing has happened to me Sad
The question is whats the resolution to this problem??
while i was asking about the thermal regulation previously, nothing has been changed from the original as sent out settings ( didnt want to mess it up until i was 100% confident)

Google translate shows this

Quote:

Seems to be under no good star my lamp. She is already broken …

We were out this afternoon and I left them in a holster on the dresser and did not have it. Did not lock her up.
When I came back home and took it full of anticipation from the dresser, I saw that the holster was melted on top. But not only that, even the optics have melted and the switch has dropped off, presumably the glue loosened by the heat.

It does not work at all, have already tested 3 batteries. The one in there was, I think, over there too, looks kinda weird now.

Do you have ideas why it can be or what I can do? I can not see anything visually. I’m really disappointed and baffled, no idea how it should have activated, there was no one at home and she was just lying around.

Firelight2
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Ouch Pint!

That doesn’t look good. I agree that it looks like something overheated. Overheating can explain what is visible in the photos you provided:

  • Button boot popped off – If the light overheated, air pressure inside the light might increase, putting pressure on the button boot making it more likely to pop off. Also, the button boot retaining ring is steel and is held in with a friction fit. If the aluminum head heats up at a faster rate it may expand, possibly enough to cause the boot to loose friction and come off.
  • Positive wire from the driver to the star popped off – If the star gets too hot it might melt the solder at the driver wire. When this happens the wire can pop off, causing your light to become non-functional.

Neither of these things should have happened, but fortunately both should be fixable if you have a soldering iron and maybe some super-glue. You can try contacting Hank and returning it for repair, or you can try fixing it yourself. If this happened to me, I’d try the following:

  • Check bottom of the driver board inside the head to see if there are any shorts in the battery compartment. Did the spring at the head come off?
  • Desolder and remove the aux led board. Before doing this, take detailed photos showing which aux led wire goes where so you can reassemble it. You will need fine-tip soldering iron tips for the aux board and a wider tip for the star.
  • Desolder and remove the negative wire on the star.
    • Lift off the star* and check the solder paste under the star. A driver wire to a star desoldering itself is often a sign of insufficient thermal paste underneath. If thermal paste is insufficient, heat can’t get out of the star fast enough causing the star to overheat. In extreme situations this can cause the star to heat up enough to melt the solder on the star. Spring tension then often causes a driver wire to pull out of position. Best to double-check and replace with new thermal paste if needed.
  • Reassemble, this time soldering on both positive and negative wires to the star, plus aux LED wires.
  • For the switch boot, I would try pressing the boot back in place with the stock retaining ring. Make sure it is fully seated and take note of how much pressure is required to seat it fully. If a lot of pressure is needed I’d skip glue. If it seems loose or pops out again, I’d put glue underneath (probably Fiberfix optical super glue).
  • Calibrate the temp sensor in the UI and the thermal rampdown. Even if it turns on in the pocket it really shouldn’t get hot enough to actually damage the light. Thermal rampdown should have protected it from damage.
  • Test the light. Put it in turbo tailstanding on a fresh cell and leave the light on. If everything works perfectly, the light should ramp down without suffering any damage.
alex64
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pint wrote:
a few problems:

The positive wire is unsoldered. A defective solder?

pint
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Im OK with soldering some things, de soldering and re-soldering the aux board is a task for which i lack the correct tools, i could re-heat the positeve lead and dab it down, and press the switch in again, however the report over on the German forum shows the same thing happening, almost as if it switched on by itself and got warm

Firelight2
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alex64 wrote:
The positive wire is unsoldered. A defective solder?
It could have been a poor solder job.

Except that Pint also reported the button boot came off, which suggests overheating.

Nev
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I never heard of any Emisar problems when it’s using ramping firmware , maybe it’s just a coincidence that problems are popping up now they are running on anduril Question

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Nev wrote:
I never heard of any Emisar problems when it’s using ramping firmware , maybe it’s just a coincidence that problems are popping up now they are running on Anduril Question
I don’t think that’s the case.

I have stock D4s with ramping IOS and modded D4s with Anduril. All of them work perfectly. I don’t think the problem is the firmware.

That said, I don’t yet have the latest version of Anduril for the D4 installed, so not sure if there is a problem with it and the D4. If the light failed to ramp down at all and stayed on turbo, I suppose that might also explain what Pint experienced.

Terry Oregon
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Well, I'm planning to do runtime graphs when mine arrives. Until this is all sorted out and understood, I'll make sure there's a baking pan under the light.

 

If I were the manufacturer, I would be pulling some samples from stock - to perform some runtime tests, both on and off.  There aren't that many of these lights out there, it's a bit concerning.

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Nev
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The firmware is not to bad , it’s the thermal regulation of the firmware that I’ve got no confidence with.

Klayking
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contactcr wrote:
You missed a joke about furniture from the 1700s, shame on you.

Huh, I really should have got the joke, as this guy was born just a few minutes away from where I live.
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Nev wrote:
The firmware is not to bad , it’s the thermal regulation of the firmware that I’ve got no confidence with.

Mine is on the way with SST-20s. I don’t really fiddle with the settings on my D1, D1S or D4, but what’s the first thing I should do to prevent Chernobyl?

Re-calibrate the the thermal setting? I don’t think I’ll play with Turbo too much and I’ll keep the light unlocked at all times unless I’m playing with it right in front of me.

This is kind of a bummer, but there are bound to be a few Ferrari 458 Italia engine fires along the way!

Chris

saypat
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If I were the manufacturer, I would be pulling some samples from stock – to perform some runtime tests, both on and off.  There aren’t that many of these lights out there, it’s a bit concerning.

[/quote]

hoping Hank will stop by, a bit concerning indeed!

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Nev wrote:
The firmware is not to bad , it’s the thermal regulation of the firmware that I’ve got no confidence with.

Anduril is generally more aggressive with stepdowns than RampingOS AFAIK. Unless the settings are really goofed (like some Fireflies lights and FW3As were from the factory, but very easy to fix) something like this shouldn’t happen. I mean, if an FW3A modded to quad emitters can manage the heat without desoldering itself a light with the mass of the D4 shouldn’t either.

pint
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I dont want to have to go through the hassle of mailing the whole thing back, waiting, and waiting then maybe getting it fixed/replaced Sad

contactcr
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pint wrote:
I dont want to have to go through the hassle of mailing the whole thing back, waiting, and waiting then maybe getting it fixed/replaced Sad

They usually wont ask you to send it back as long as you have it all documented.

I must say it’s a bit curious that one day you post about having trouble setting upper thermal limit and next day you managed to have a melt down. What exactly did you do at that point?

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contactcr wrote:
pint wrote:
I dont want to have to go through the hassle of mailing the whole thing back, waiting, and waiting then maybe getting it fixed/replaced Sad

They usually wont ask you to send it back as long as you have it all documented.

I must say it’s a bit curious that one day you post about having trouble setting upper thermal limit and next day you managed to have a melt down. What exactly did you do at that point?

I don’t think that should matter.

My recollection is that it’s not possible to turn off the thermal protection in Anduril. You can set so it is less aggressive but it should still turn on and protect the electronics.

Nev
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BurningPlayd0h wrote:
Nev wrote:
The firmware is not to bad , it’s the thermal regulation of the firmware that I’ve got no confidence with.

Anduril is generally more aggressive with stepdowns than RampingOS AFAIK. Unless the settings are really goofed (like some Fireflies lights and FW3As were from the factory, but very easy to fix) something like this shouldn’t happen. I mean, if an FW3A modded to quad emitters can manage the heat without desoldering itself a light with the mass of the D4 shouldn’t either.


I much prefer the ramping ui ,& version 2 is a bit better ,I think anduril is a step backwards ,yeh you get the blinkies & all that but the main features of a good super bright light is spoilt by not allowing it to stay bright for long enough , my D4 will stay at its brightest & wont step down until it’s reach it’s specified temperature 70* in my case , but anduril will step down earlier than it’s suppose to , yes tk has modified it a bit but im Not about to spend more money on the same torch with an updated thermal control that probly isn’t much better , but I’m sure most people are happy with it.
I’d like to buy a new D4 but not if it has anduril FW.
contactcr
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If you don’t think that matters then you have never had to troubleshoot software. In a perfect world you are right.

Rusty4x4
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If you wanted to overheat a light on purpose you could put the light in a freezer then run the thermal calibration and tell it it’s 30c to make the thermal regulation do nothing until it’s too late

pint
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After asking about it, I decided to leave it as it was, on default as I was still trying to get used to the UI, sometimes it didnt appear to respond to the button clicks.
I thought it could have been something I was doing wrong, aux leds would cut out, it wouldn’t turn on etc, as if it was stuck in lock out mode.

Then today is when I came back from work, and noticed the button off+ the loose wire.

In 3 weeks time I will be going away, was hoping to be able to make the most of this light.

What’s the return/repair process like (purchased from intl outdoor)

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Hank is a good man. Contact him with photos of your light, etc. I would bet he will just send you a new head,even before he asks you to return the damaged one. After all, your light was brand new.

contactcr
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Rusty4×4 wrote:
If you wanted to overheat a light on purpose you could put the light in a freezer then run the thermal calibration and tell it it’s 30c to make the thermal regulation do nothing until it’s too late

Actually it’s the opposite which is easier to do by mistake. Run turbo for a bit then the light thinks 55c is actually 23c now your light is off by over 30c. Set the ceiling to 70c cause “I like to set things on fire” and now you have a problem.

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