TK's Emisar D4V2 review

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BurningPlayd0h
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Nev wrote:
BurningPlayd0h wrote:
Nev wrote:
The firmware is not to bad , it’s the thermal regulation of the firmware that I’ve got no confidence with.

Anduril is generally more aggressive with stepdowns than RampingOS AFAIK. Unless the settings are really goofed (like some Fireflies lights and FW3As were from the factory, but very easy to fix) something like this shouldn’t happen. I mean, if an FW3A modded to quad emitters can manage the heat without desoldering itself a light with the mass of the D4 shouldn’t either.


I much prefer the ramping ui ,& version 2 is a bit better ,I think anduril is a step backwards ,yeh you get the blinkies & all that but the main features of a good super bright light is spoilt by not allowing it to stay bright for long enough , my D4 will stay at its brightest & wont step down until it’s reach it’s specified temperature 70* in my case , but anduril will step down earlier than it’s suppose to , yes tk has modified it a bit but im Not about to spend more money on the same torch with an updated thermal control that probly isn’t much better , but I’m sure most people are happy with it.
I’d like to buy a new D4 but not if it has anduril FW.

You can set the thermal management to be much more lenient if you want. For the majority of people avoiding harm to themself or damage to the light is the right choice for a mass-market product.

Remember that Lumintop is selling this to plenty of people that have never had a FET triple before.

rayman007
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How long does the free shipping to EU usually take?

Its been a while now

Terry Oregon
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Quote:
How long does the free shipping to EU usually take? Its been a while now

 

Don't know about the EU, but to Oregon, in the US . . .

Ordered June 20th

shipped June 29th

Currently at LAX (Los Angeles, California).

My reviews: , My personal collection of lights LINK,  J5 Tactical V1 Pro review LINK,  Thirteen Optical Sensors review LINKZebralight SC700d review LINK,  Ray-O-Vac Super Power Sportsman review LINK,  Convoy S2+ color combos LINK,  How To flash D4V2 LINK.

saypat
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I checked your info and got 4PX Express off it as the carrier… then used 17Track.net to get to 4Px Express. Fund this:

2019-07-06 18:18
LAX, Released from customs: customs cleared.

2019-07-02 18:51
LAX, Shipment arrived at airport of destination country

…. so mine cleared Customs 2 days ago. Still nothing at USPS yet. But it’s close. Thanks for posting your info.

ToyKeeper
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DB Custom wrote:
I forgot about the implementation to safeguard the LEDs when using the Nichia 219… Is it still true that total output is limited via firmware for this emitter?

Yes, I think so. I sent Hank a 219 version with turbo limited to 75% power (PWM level 192/255).

DB Custom wrote:
FWIW, I will most likely replace the Nichia 219’s with Samsung LH351D in U6 5000K 80 CRI variant and re-flash the MCU as needed.

That may be a little tricky on this model, given the amount of wires crammed in there, and the need for a pogo pin adapter for flashing.


Klayking wrote:
I’m English, and I feel like I have missed a joke I should have understood…

I think someone was trying to imply that I would be sexually attracted to humans. Yuck. I’d rather cover my walls with pictures of ornate furniture.


hcanning wrote:
kanton wrote:
… (what I prefer about RampingIOS V2 and/or NarsilM) …

I’m also confused at how you can hate Anduril yet be happy with NarsilM

That was just explained though. Different behavior for thermal response and momentary mode.

It’s okay to not like Anduril.


pint wrote:
a few problems: (wire unsoldered, button popped off)

That’s very strange. An unsoldered wire is understandable, if there was a cold joint or a short or a MCPCB air gap or something… but the button is pretty bizarre. Those things are not easy to remove, even on purpose.

As for what to do, it sounds like your options have already been covered in other posts.

Firelight2 wrote:
I don’t think the problem is the firmware.

You’re probably correct.

However, calibrating the sensor is still important. And the t1634 seems to have somewhat different default calibration than t85. I set the firmware’s default to match the data sheet in both cases, but the readings I see on test units are a bit different.

On tiny85, I usually see default readings anywhere from ~15 C to ~40 C. But on tiny1634 I’ve only seen default readings ranging from 10 C to 12 C. So without calibration, the tiny85 would generally regulate down sooner and lower.

In the current build, which I think Emisar is using, I added a correction factor for tiny1634… but it’s only 5 C, which gets the default up to ~16 C for room temperature. I’d add more, but I don’t have a large enough sample size to say for sure whether this difference is real or if it’s just weird luck. Regardless, the worst case there shouldn’t be bad enough to cause anything like this. It effectively would just raise the limit to 55 C, the same level other lights use.

To help with this, and to help with some other things, I very recently added a factory reset function. It changes all settings back to default, and auto-calibrates the temperature sensor. That happened after D4V2 though.

pint
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I’ve had a reply re the fault, and its a return to manufacturer fir repair/replacement.
I’m going away in three weeks time, where I was intending to use it, so hope its sorted before then

WalkIntoTheLight
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BurningPlayd0h wrote:
You can set the thermal management to be much more lenient if you want. For the majority of people avoiding harm to themself or damage to the light is the right choice for a mass-market product.

I assume (perhaps mistakenly) that even if you crank up the thermal settings to 70C (or whatever the max is), the light will still be protected from destroying itself.

Now, I get that you can mess with the room temperature settings to defeat the thermal controls, but as long as you’re doing things “honestly”, nobody should design a light that will burn out its electronics.

Are you saying that they’re selling a light than will intentionally destroy itself if you raise the temperature settings to the max allowable? Why would they allow such a stupid feature?

contactcr
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WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
BurningPlayd0h wrote:
You can set the thermal management to be much more lenient if you want. For the majority of people avoiding harm to themself or damage to the light is the right choice for a mass-market product.
Are you saying that they’re selling a light than will intentionally destroy itself if you raise the temperature settings to the max allowable? Why would they allow such a stupid feature?

I dont want to pint any fingers but not everyone uses their lights in a responsible way

clientequator
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Do you think it will ever be possible for there to be titanium, and copper, d4 to be sale?

varbos
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The picture shows a desoldered red lead. From this scenario can anything catastrophic happen (eg cell short) if this loose lead touches something on the board like one of the adjacent components or the screw?

Omega_17
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Can the vibrations created by strobing modes detach weak solder connections? When you play with certain frequencies you can easily feel the flashlight vibrating.

contactcr
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The picture would be helpful if it was in focus and showing the other side of the wire and also the solder pad on the MCPCB. As it is i’m not sure you can tell much other than, yep, not connected.

pint
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contactcr wrote:
WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
BurningPlayd0h wrote:
You can set the thermal management to be much more lenient if you want. For the majority of people avoiding harm to themself or damage to the light is the right choice for a mass-market product.
Are you saying that they’re selling a light than will intentionally destroy itself if you raise the temperature settings to the max allowable? Why would they allow such a stupid feature?

I dont want to pint any fingers but not everyone uses their lights in a responsible way

While i did manage to start a fire ( in a safe location) using a D4 it was more of a novelty as its much easier with matches/correct fire lighting equipment.

As for the D4V2, I was having trouble with the UI, i did ask about the thermal regulation settings, although never got as far as changing anything, when it was working it did appear that it doesnt ( didnt?) throttle down as fast or as sudden as the D4, which has a noticeable step down after about 10 seconds

ToyKeeper
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pint wrote:
it did appear that it doesnt ( didnt?) throttle down as fast or as sudden as the D4

D4v1 did its thermal adjustments suddenly, all at once. It’s easily visible.

D4v2 does thermal adjustments smoothly and gradually. The initial drop is usually still noticeable, but after it gets close to a sustainable level, the adjustments are usually too subtle to see by eye.

pint
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It always felt like/feels like the D4 is telling you off for letting it get too hot, Bumpf! – stepdown, “let me get too hot again and i will singe your fingers!!”
where as the D4v2 is more of a crafty but, reserved type of beast

specialk
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My D4v2 just got delivered today.
I really like the aux lights in green on the low/high blink mode.

BurningPlayd0h
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WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
BurningPlayd0h wrote:
You can set the thermal management to be much more lenient if you want. For the majority of people avoiding harm to themself or damage to the light is the right choice for a mass-market product.

I assume (perhaps mistakenly) that even if you crank up the thermal settings to 70C (or whatever the max is), the light will still be protected from destroying itself.

The current and step-down temps are whatever you tell the light they are. I think the step-down temp has some sort of limit but if you purposefully fudge the calibration temp that’s on you.

Now, I get that you can mess with the room temperature settings to defeat the thermal controls, but as long as you’re doing things “honestly”, nobody should design a light that will burn out its electronics.

And as far as we know they haven’t, the only confirmed widespread issue was the original 219C D4’s that had firmware allowing full FET which could cause damage under certain circumstances.

Are you saying that they’re selling a light than will intentionally destroy itself if you raise the temperature settings to the max allowable? Why would they allow such a stupid feature?

No I’m saying if someone willfully set the light up to get as hot as possible it could cause damage. There are some non-hotrod lights like the Convoy H1 that will reach very high temps if left unattended on turbo in their stock form so I think Emisar and Lumintop have done their due dilligence (especially Lumintop since the temp settings from factory appear to be VERY conservative).

If used irresponsibly super glue, e-cigs, power tools, etc. are all dangerous. The same is certainly true of hotrod lights like this.

Rexlion
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Klayking wrote:
contactcr wrote:
You missed a joke about furniture from the 1700s, shame on you.

Huh, I really should have got the joke, as this guy was born just a few minutes away from where I live.

Chippendale dancers

Apparently no interest, they aren’t using anything that requires software.

And now you know…. the rest of the story. Wink

contactcr
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That English furniture is not everyone’s cup of tea

Nev
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You don’t like wood? Shocked

WalkIntoTheLight
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BurningPlayd0h wrote:
No I’m saying if someone willfully set the light up to get as hot as possible it could cause damage.

Okay, but if the room temperature is set correctly, can the light be damaged if you set the max temperature as high as it will go? (IIRC, I think that is 70C.)

IMO, the light should protect itself. Otherwise, you have essentially a “suicide feature” programmed into the light as a valid setting. If it can’t operate at 70C, you shouldn’t be able to set it that high.

FWIW, the Narsil lights I have (like the Astrolux S43) seem to operate fine at 70C. Damn hot, for sure, but they haven’t melted down on me. (Internal temperature blinks out low 70’s when I shut off the light.)

I understand you don’t want to operate it at that temperature for long periods, because you risk heating up the battery beyond its 75C-80C safe operating temperature. But these lights heat up the head (where the thermostat is) far more than the body tube.

kanton
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ToyKeeper wrote:
kanton wrote:
I … want it to be on turbo every time. I have no need for any other mode.

Fortunately, the D4v2 has options to make it do that. Set the ramp ceiling to turbo, ramp up to turbo, and activate manual memory. One-time setup, never needs to be done again, and it’s easier than flashing firmware.

After doing that, 1 click turns the light on at turbo brightness, 1 click turns it off again, and … it sounds like that’s all you need.

It does not really solve my problem as I explicitly like the momentary function (press and hold/release), but I am curious (and thanks nevertheless): How do I enable it, searching for “manual” in the FW3A PDF manual did only reveal an easter egg that was written with white font on the first page:

It took a few weekends, more weekends, lets say quite a while to compile that stuff, after reading the BLF threads front to back and the FW3A thread from the beginning. If you want to use this manual on a commercial product, It would be nice I get a free light. Thank you!

Edit: Found it in https://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/fsm/view/hea... – Am I blind or is that simply not in the PDF manual? Is it not available for the FW3A then? The 5 clicks does not seem to do anything there as far as I can see (and as stated earlier).

Edit 2: I see this feature was only added very recently: https://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/fsm/revision... so FW3A won’t have it I assume. ^^

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WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
BurningPlayd0h wrote:
No I’m saying if someone willfully set the light up to get as hot as possible it could cause damage.

Okay, but if the room temperature is set correctly, can the light be damaged if you set the max temperature as high as it will go? (IIRC, I think that is 70C.)

IMO, the light should protect itself. Otherwise, you have essentially a “suicide feature” programmed into the light as a valid setting. If it can’t operate at 70C, you shouldn’t be able to set it that high.

FWIW, the Narsil lights I have (like the Astrolux S43) seem to operate fine at 70C. Damn hot, for sure, but they haven’t melted down on me. (Internal temperature blinks out low 70’s when I shut off the light.)

I understand you don’t want to operate it at that temperature for long periods, because you risk heating up the battery beyond its 75C-80C safe operating temperature. But these lights heat up the head (where the thermostat is) far more than the body tube.

Does your car prevent you from driving with excessively worn brake pads? The motherboard for my computer won’t prevent me from applying too much voltage to my CPU when I overclock. I could find examples all day long. You accept the risk when you do those things.

People should take responsibility for their ignorance. Big Smile

TK’s firmware does a good job preventing overheating issues but components may fail prematurely when exposed to excessive heat. You don’t accidentally change thermal settings, maybe it is possible but I surely never have and certainly it is almost impossible to set them so high without the knowledge of how to do it. It is too expensive and time consuming to calibrate the temp sensor in every flashlight. The majority of users appreciate the ability to set the thermal ceiling, because we know what we are doing and can use a IR thermometer to do so. The bottom line is don’t modify something unless you are willing to bear the risk.

contactcr
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kanton wrote:
Edit: Found it in https://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/fsm/view/hea... – Am I blind or is that simply not in the PDF manual? Is it not available for the FW3A then?

Correct it missed the cut off for that feature. Maybe in the second round of drivers

saypat
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once again could someone who knows how please describe the steps for setting this light back to DEFAULT. (thanks).

Mark M
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saypat wrote:
once again could someone who knows how please describe the steps for setting this light back to DEFAULT. (thanks).

teacher does a great job of explaining it in the link below. Check the second heading of his post titled “Thermal Configuration & Protection”

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1499473#comment-1499473

ToyKeeper
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Rexlion wrote:
Joke.
ToyKeeper wrote:
Meh. Counter-joke.
bquinlan wrote:
*snort*
Klayking wrote:
I feel like I have missed a joke I should have understood…
contactcr wrote:
Explanation of second joke.
Klayking wrote:
Oh. Yeah, I should have gotten that.
Rexlion wrote:
Explanation of first joke.

Wrong joke. Wink

ToyKeeper
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saypat wrote:
once again could someone who knows how please describe the steps for setting this light back to DEFAULT. (thanks).

With the factory reset function (which, unfortunately, wasn’t made until after D4V2 was produced):

  1. Let the light settle to room temperature, ~21 C or so.
  2. Loosen tailcap. Hold button, tighten tailcap, continue holding button for ~4 seconds.
  3. Let go after the bright flash.

Without the factory reset function (which is how the first batch of D4V2 works):

  1. Exit muggle mode, if you’re in it. Or exit momentary mode. Or exit lockout mode. Or whatever. Get back to regular “off” mode.
  2. For each setting, navigate to that setting and change the value. Settings include:
    • Smooth ramp floor / ceiling.
    • Stepped ramp floor / ceiling / number of steps.
    • Smooth/stepped ramp toggle.
    • Turn off manual memory.
    • “Off” mode aux LED color and pattern.
    • “Lockout” mode aux LED color and pattern.
    • Beacon mode speed.
    • Which strobe-group mode is active?
    • Speed / brightness for each strobe-group mode.
    • Temperature sensor calibration.
    • Temperature limit.
  3. Repeat for each setting in the list. May require looking up defaults in the source code (usually just the light-specific config file).

So… a complete reset to defaults is generally not recommended. There are several things to configure, and the details are different for each. Most people probably want to just identify which particular setting they want to change, and then change it.

thisnameisvalid
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Does anyone know a source of single 10621 optics in the UK (or EU)? Ive been wanting to try one out for a while but no one seems to be selling them in anything but large order quantities. MTN shipping is too expensive

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Mine arrives today!

sand, xpl 3a

When I'm spending mony foolishly, I like to do it wi$ely...

I have all the flashlights I need, but not as many as I want...

 

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