TK's Emisar D4V2 review

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Discharger
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Discharger wrote:
I was wondering if it is physically possible in the existing hardware configuration of the D4V2 to make the aux LEDs even brighter ... maybe a possible future revision of the firmware could have 4 modes for the aux LEDs - heartbeat,low, high, and turbo...?
Aux LED brightness is determined by the resistors soldered onto the aux LED board. The firmware does not control that. What the firmware controls is two things -- whether the LEDs have power, and whether the MCU's internal resistor is active. This allows for 4 states:
  Power On Power Off
Resistor On aux low aux off
Resistor Off aux high aux off

That is the full extent of the aux LED brightness levels available while the MCU is asleep.

 

Thank you for explaining. The aux lights are already very useful as indicators (locked/non locked,  voltage)  and quite pretty. It would be fantastic if in a future hardware revision or hardware version they could be powerful enough to be used for illumination : red for preserving dark adaptation,  blue/green for use in strobes?, UV would be nice too Wink

 

One can only hope!

 

 

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Discharger wrote:
It would be fantastic if in a future hardware revision or hardware version they could be powerful enough to be used for illumination

I have a flashlight with R/G/B/UV in addition to white, all bright enough to use for illumination. It’s pretty neat. However, I’ve found that it isn’t particularly useful.

OTOH, I also made a R/Y/G/B lightsaber with custom firmware, and the colors work a lot better there. Since there are so many ways to use a full spectrum of colors, I made it so the user can design their own patterns in a manner similar to designing sounds on a synthesizer. I should probably get back to that project sometime…

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Hm.. I got mine finally.. My ramping is changed into step ramping. Not smooth like it was.. Its ramping with modes.. Steps. Is it possible? How to change it to thr classical ramping please?

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vresto wrote:
Hm.. I got mine finally.. My ramping is changed into step ramping. Not smooth like it was.. Its ramping with modes.. Steps. Is it possible? How to change it to thr classical ramping please?

While the light is on, click the button three times.
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Too bad the green color is being discontinued. Anyone knows where to get an old stock D4 in green?

firestorm
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can you please make the AUX LEDSUSABLE”. like we can turn it on to use as reading light or whatnot.. right now the aux leds are only for “decoration” purpose for a lack of a better term..

pls make it usable with its own mode.. click and hold from off maybe. just an example.. just make it usable

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firestorm wrote:
can you please make the AUX LEDSUSABLE”. like we can turn it on to use as reading light or whatnot.. right now the aux leds are only for “decoration” purpose for a lack of a better term..

pls make it usable with its own mode.. click and hold from off maybe. just an example.. just make it usable

In its current form, the aux LEDs are not very useful for reading. The reasons why are:

  • On low mode, they are far too dim to read with.
  • On high, it may be bright enough to read with, but the beam pattern is very uneven.
  • On high, the aux LEDs produce less light than moon mode, and use more power.
  • There is no dedicated mode for aux LEDs. The closest it gets is if you set up lockout mode with the aux LED configuration you want.

But in an ideal world, how would you want it to work, in detail?

firestorm
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ToyKeeper wrote:
firestorm wrote:
can you please make the AUX LEDSUSABLE”. like we can turn it on to use as reading light or whatnot.. right now the aux leds are only for “decoration” purpose for a lack of a better term..

pls make it usable with its own mode.. click and hold from off maybe. just an example.. just make it usable

In its current form, the aux LEDs are not very useful for reading. The reasons why are:

  • On low mode, they are far too dim to read with.
  • On high, it may be bright enough to read with, but the beam pattern is very uneven.
  • On high, the aux LEDs produce less light than moon mode, and use more power.
  • There is no dedicated mode for aux LEDs. The closest it gets is if you set up lockout mode with the aux LED configuration you want.

But in an ideal world, how would you want it to work, in detail?

thanks.. that changed my mind.. haha.. i was just thinking about the idea to use the red leds to “preserve” night vision like in the nitecore ec11. but then again the ec11 does not have a moon mode like the d4, which makes the red leds somewhat useful.. but your point is spot on.. no need for the aux leds as illumination anymore as there is a moon mode.. Smile

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I've had my D4V2 since last summer and have EDCed it since then.  I've put on various different firmwares since I got it and noticed a newer one 2020_03_18.  I put it on this morning and verified that's the version installed via 15 clicks.  After reading about setting the aux LEDs to show voltage the last few posts, I've decided that's what I want when my light is off.  Previously, I had red set for off and blue set for lockout to distinguish between the two.

 

Maybe I'm doing something wrong but I never get just blue even with the voltage of my battery showing 4.1 via 3 clicks.  The aux just show blue and red on at the same time with the light off.  I stopped holding on 7 clicks when it seems rainbow is done and that is the result (tried it numerous times).  I get red/blue aux on at the same time.  I thought there were just 3 colors for the voltage- blue, then green, then red as voltage drops over time.

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srvctec wrote:
setting the aux LEDs to show voltage … I thought there were just 3 colors

Oh, right. When I merged the Noctigon K1 code, it also merged in the higher-resolution voltage colors. From high to low voltage, it goes: white, purple, blue, cyan, green, yellow, red, off. But “white” is unlikely to happen since it’s only for an over-charged cell. So really, it follows the colors of a rainbow as voltage drops.

srvctec
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ToyKeeper wrote:
srvctec wrote:
setting the aux LEDs to show voltage ... I thought there were just 3 colors
Oh, right. When I merged the Noctigon K1 code, it also merged in the higher-resolution voltage colors. From high to low voltage, it goes: white, purple, blue, cyan, green, yellow, red, off. But "white" is unlikely to happen since it's only for an over-charged cell. So really, it follows the colors of a rainbow as voltage drops.

 

Excellent and thank you for the explanation!  Will this info make it into the text user manual and graphical cheat sheet at some point?  I have to refer to those every time I flash new firmware because I have CRS. Wink

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ToyKeeper wrote:
When I merged the Noctigon K1 code, it also merged in the higher-resolution voltage colors. From high to low voltage, it goes: white, purple, blue, cyan, green, yellow, red, off.

Lovely! I’ll have to upgrade all my other lights. Smile

Thank you!

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srvctec wrote:
Will this info make it into the text user manual and graphical cheat sheet at some point?

Ah, that’s a good point. I completely forgot to update those. Anyway, it’s on the todo list now.

vresto
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Firelight2 wrote:
vresto wrote:
Hm.. I got mine finally.. My ramping is changed into step ramping. Not smooth like it was.. Its ramping with modes.. Steps. Is it possible? How to change it to thr classical ramping please?

While the light is on, click the button three times.

thank you..its working:))

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ConsummateV
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Hey, TK and everyone else! I am new to the world of enthusiast flashlights and to this forum, and my research on a flashlight that would be pocketable, versatile, and fun lead here after a month or so. I am excited about this flashlight, and I have been enjoying skimming this thread (I’m only up to page 30 so far). I have loved flashlights since I was a child, but never bothered to do much about it until now.

The reason I am posting is that I have a safety question about the flashlight for anyone who is educated in this: what happens if a standard, low-discharge cell (4.4A, for example) from a laptop is used in this flashlight? Would the flashlight over-stress the cell and possibly cause it to fail, overheat, or explode? Or would it merely limit the ramping and turbo based on the cell’s limits? Would the max ramp and turbo merely be limited to around 700-800 lumins? If so, by what mechanism is this achieved? I have read that vapes can cause low-discharge cells to burst due to trying to pull more amps than the cells can safely deliver. That is why I am concerned about the flashlight.

The cells I intend to use are Samsung ICR18650-22F from an aftermarket laptop battery. They are unprotected and have a max discharge of 4.4A from what I have read.

I do not care about ultra-brightness right now (I may later, just to show off). I just want a fun and functional flashlight for tasks that will rarely require more than a few hundred lumins. I do, however, want to find a use for the nine 18650 cells I harvested that still hold 88% of their capacity. That was actually what motivated me to start shopping for a new flashlight. I have an old single-AA Fenix LD12 that mostly serves my needs, but I would like a brighter flashlight. On a partly depleted alkaline cell (I know I’m supposed to use NiMH) it can only achieve 27 lumins (mode 2 of 4, 4 being 115 lumins). These cells gave me the motivation to finally get a better flashlight, and one based on a Li-Ion cell.

I would assume that the Fenix fails to achieve its max brightness due to the low voltage of a partly depleted AA cell. All modes the cell cannot power simply output the same brightness. So eventually the upper three modes are equal to the first mode in output. There must be something in the circuitry that causes the flashlight to output a brightness equal to the previous mode rather than a partial step up. I do not know enough about Li-Ion technology or electrical engineering to know if what is happening in the Fenix and its alkaline cell would also happen with a hot rod flashlight and an 18650 cell, especially since the limitation here is not primarily voltage, but amperage. And alkaline cells are not known to burst when stressed. Li-Ion cells are. EDIT: I just went for a walk and found that the Fenix actually does do partial step ups. I never noticed that before. I put a fresh cell in and the step from 2 to 3 is much greater than with the depleted cell.

By the way, I’m planning to get the Nichia 219C 5000K 83CRI emitter. I want to experience this high CRI, neutral white the enthusiasts rave about, and avoid the green tint that reportedly plagues the SST20. I would try the 4000K 219C if it were available. But maybe that would seem too warm for daytime use. I will be using this flashlight for all purposes, night and day.

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In the regulated modes (up to ~140 lm or so), almost any li-ion cell should be fine. It only draws up to 350mA in those modes, and they’re typically bright enough for daily use.

In moderate levels above that, most cells should still be fine.

It’s only really at turbo and really high levels that weak cells become an issue. It can potentially cause cells to overheat and become unstable or damaged. But it can’t sustain those levels for long anyway, due to heat, so it ramps down to a more reasonable level within the first minute.

If you’re using questionable batteries, I’d suggest avoiding turbo. Or at least, probably don’t use it for more than a few seconds at a time. Lower modes should be fine though.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
srvctec wrote:
setting the aux LEDs to show voltage … I thought there were just 3 colors

Oh, right. When I merged the Noctigon K1 code, it also merged in the higher-resolution voltage colors. From high to low voltage, it goes: white, purple, blue, cyan, green, yellow, red, off. But “white” is unlikely to happen since it’s only for an over-charged cell. So really, it follows the colors of a rainbow as voltage drops.

That’s nice! May I ask starting which firmware version/date did it have this feature?
Also, does this feature only apply to the Noctigon K1, Emisar D4v2 and Emisar D4Sv2, at least for now?
Or do any other Anduril flashlights have this aux-LED-voltage feature?

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d_t_a wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
When I merged the Noctigon K1 code, it also merged in the higher-resolution voltage colors.

starting which firmware version/date did it have this feature?
Also, does this feature only apply to the Noctigon K1, Emisar D4v2 and Emisar D4Sv2, at least for now?
Or do any other Anduril flashlights have this aux-LED-voltage feature?

I think the first builds with that were 2020-03-18, aside from the K1 which had it since launch. It applies to anything with a “voltage” mode for RGB aux LEDs… which currently means just Emisar and Noctigon products.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
srvctec wrote:
setting the aux LEDs to show voltage … I thought there were just 3 colors

Oh, right. When I merged the Noctigon K1 code, it also merged in the higher-resolution voltage colors. From high to low voltage, it goes: white, purple, blue, cyan, green, yellow, red, off. But “white” is unlikely to happen since it’s only for an over-charged cell. So really, it follows the colors of a rainbow as voltage drops.

Excellent Smile

ToyKeeper wrote:
But in an ideal world, how would you want it to work, in detail?

How about this idea, which includes “Aux mode” into the main operation mode:

- From On, you reach aux mode with 3C (currently this switches between smooth and stepped ramp)
- From Aux Mode, you reach regular mode with 3C
- In Aux mode, 1H is used to turn the aux LEDs brighter or dimmer
- In Aux mode, 2C will reach max aux brightness (aux turbo), another 2C will go back to previous aux brightness
- In Aux mode, 2H will cycle through the various aux operation modes (R, Y, G, C, B, V, W, Rainbow, Volts)
- In Aux mode, 1C will turn the light off

vresto
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friends,is possible to dim the aux leds? thanks a lot…stock aux led lumens are a lotttt..

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vresto wrote:
friends,is possible to dim the aux leds? thanks a lot…stock aux led lumens are a lotttt..

Quote:
Some lights have aux LEDs or button LEDs. These can be configured to do
different things while the main emitters are off. There is one aux LED
mode for the regular “off” mode, and another aux LED mode for “lockout”
mode. This allows the user to see at a glance whether the light is
locked.

Aux LED modes typically include:

– Off – Low – High – Blinking

To configure the aux LEDs, go to the mode you want to configure and then
click the button a few times:

– Off mode: 7 clicks. – Lockout mode: 3 clicks.

This should change the aux LEDs to the next mode supported on this
light.

7/3 clicks with a “hold” on the last one cycles colors too.

mikeyx
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I just updated the firmware on my D4V2 to 2020-03-18. Is there any documentation that has all of the changes that have been made recently (like the 15 click to get the firmware level) ?

Thanks,
Mike

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mikeyx wrote:
Is there any documentation that has all of the changes that have been made recently ?

The most accurate place to get that info is in the change log, a.k.a. “Recent revisions” on this page:

https://code.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/fsm

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Are the D4V2’s Aux emitters wired/coded in such a way that they will not vampire a cell past typical LVP? I remember TK confirming way back when that the original D4S’s aux had no intelligence with battery voltage, but I was hoping that the D4V2 did with the voltage aux setting.

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When the RGB aux LEDs were added, LVP for those was added too. It checks voltage every few seconds while off, both to make the “voltage” mode work and to turn off the aux LEDs when the battery is low.

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I was thinking today that I’d love to see a 21700 sized D4. However, the “twist” would be that there should be two different battery tubes for it. One with a relatively thick wall for 18650s and the other with the “normal” wall for 21700 cells. The idea being that the “thick” tube would give the light more thermal mass and make it tougher. Maybe use the same optics/electronics as the current D4v2 but enlarge the OD of the head to match the tube?

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prototype3a wrote:
I was thinking today that I’d love to see a 21700 sized D4. However, the “twist” would be that there should be two different battery tubes for it. One with a relatively thick wall for 18650s and the other with the “normal” wall for 21700 cells. The idea being that the “thick” tube would give the light more thermal mass and make it tougher. Maybe use the same optics/electronics as the current D4v2 but enlarge the OD of the head to match the tube?

Anecdotally I don’t think battery tube mass affects thermal performance much except maybe in hosts that are have a single piece head/tube like Zebralight.

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BurningPlayd0h wrote:
prototype3a wrote:
I was thinking today that I’d love to see a 21700 sized D4. However, the “twist” would be that there should be two different battery tubes for it. One with a relatively thick wall for 18650s and the other with the “normal” wall for 21700 cells. The idea being that the “thick” tube would give the light more thermal mass and make it tougher. Maybe use the same optics/electronics as the current D4v2 but enlarge the OD of the head to match the tube?

Anecdotally I don’t think battery tube mass affects thermal performance much except maybe in hosts that are have a single piece head/tube like Zebralight.


Indeed.
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Am I correct that the side switch is on a separate pcb? Thinking about a custom switch already, depending on how tight everything is inside. Doesn’t look like there is much room to do what I am thinking, though.

Also, is the FET used just for turbo mode or is it being pwm’d in other modes like ramping, strobe, etc?

Eagletac D25C, Nitecore D10 R2, Extreme E3, EX11.2, TIP, and Tubes. Noctigon KR4.

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AmbientSix wrote:
Am I correct that the side switch is on a separate pcb? Thinking about a custom switch already, depending on how tight everything is inside. Doesn’t look like there is much room to do what I am thinking, though.

For the aluminum D4 and D4V2, I don’t think the switch is on a PCB at all. It fits very tightly into a pocket machined in the head right below the switch boot. Below that pocket there’s room for 2 tiny wires to connect from the switch to the driver. There’s no room for a special pcp for the switch unless you start dremeling or glue on a custom raised switchboot.

I haven’t tried opening the head in the Ti and Brass D4v2. Presumably those have a larger pocket with room for a custom illuminated PCB.

Quote:
Also, is the FET used just for turbo mode or is it being pwm’d in other modes like ramping, strobe, etc?
I think FET is used for the final 2 modes (turbo). I think the power right below full power uses PWM.

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