TK's Emisar D4V2 review

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ToyKeeper
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kanton wrote:
I … want it to be on turbo every time. I have no need for any other mode.

Fortunately, the D4v2 has options to make it do that. Set the ramp ceiling to turbo, ramp up to turbo, and activate manual memory. One-time setup, never needs to be done again, and it’s easier than flashing firmware.

After doing that, 1 click turns the light on at turbo brightness, 1 click turns it off again, and … it sounds like that’s all you need.

Klayking
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Yeah I was about to suggest this. It requires a few minutes to configure the light to your needs, but you can set it up how you like and then never need to mess with it again.

If those programming keys become widely available at some point soon, it should be super easy to flash a different firmware onto the new D4 too. That way you can have it exactly as you want it with no compromises.

WalkIntoTheLight
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ToyKeeper wrote:
kanton wrote:
I … want it to be on turbo every time. I have no need for any other mode.

Fortunately, the D4v2 has options to make it do that. Set the ramp ceiling to turbo, ramp up to turbo, and activate manual memory. One-time setup, never needs to be done again, and it’s easier than flashing firmware.

After doing that, 1 click turns the light on at turbo brightness, 1 click turns it off again, and … it sounds like that’s all you need.

But doesn’t that still allow the user to ramp into different levels? It’s a partial solution, but it doesn’t appear to be the “single mode turbo” solution that the poster wants.

With Narsil, for example, a user can set the light into a “1 mode turbo” mode set, and disable moonlight. After that, it’s a single-mode light, full turbo, and nothing else. Perfect for throwers, IMO. Biscotti is also good for its single-mode turbo config.

Is there something that does that on Anduril?

Personally, not something I’d want on floody light, but if it’s put on a thrower, that would be very useful.

Nev
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kanton wrote:
BurningPlayd0h wrote:
So you want Hank to manufacture and sell a whole other product just to meet your very specific use cases?

Sorry, if most customers didn’t want Anduril I don’t think they would have made the change.


Strawman argument, I never “wanted Hank to sell a whole other product”. I asked if the old D4 was still available and stated that I don’t like some of the new changes.

And I also never said that “most customers don’t want Anduril”, not even remotely. Heck, I even highlighted that those are my personal needs only, in bold font.
My question has already been answered though so I thought I would go more into detail I have with Anduril. Not everyone. I.

But yeah instead of getting reasonable reply replies all I get is trash talk like “if you can write that wall of text you could reflash of light”. Okay then. Will keep my posts short and without explanations in the future. Or better just vanish again, because the amount of fanboyism not allowing for any criticism to exist here is over the top, as always.


I agree , I think the original D4 firmware is better especially the thermal control.
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I lost my original D4 and ordered a replacement, sold out. So i ordered a D4V2, SST20s, 500k

Thoughts, the Aux LEDs wil be useful for finding the thing in my tent whilst camping

thermal config, eh?? how do you set that? wont it also change the current temperature settings, or mess those up ?

Tint, dont care too much as long as its not blue, or pink

Knurling, generally good, however on the tailcap there does appear to be a little mark two thirds towards the end which presents itself as a slight change in the surface finish two thirds of the way along, im guessing that its down to the knurling wheel, either where it feeds in, feeds out, or dwells before feeding along

now located the original D4 but it will be some time, at least 3 months before i can get to it
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It hurt my brain to try and read your post.

lfowner
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kanton wrote:
Can you still get the old D4? Because I really don’t like Anduril. I really hate it on my FW3A

This is how different requirements are. In my personal view Anduril is much better than NarsilM and I wish someone would be able to reprogram my Sofirn Q8 and my Sofirn SP36 from NarsilM to Anduril…

The FW3A is the first light since the last ten years I’ve bought that’s somewhere near to my good old Litefluxes – the best Light ever made since now!

EDIT: on intl-ooutdoor you can still buy the old one:
https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4ti-high-power-flashlight-p-927.html
https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4-high-power-led-flashlight-p-921.html

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Another potential solution to having true single mode turbo: you can use the ramp config to set both the floor and ceiling to level 150. Or at least 149 and 150 if that suggestion wouldn’t work. Also, as Anúdril has both stepped and smooth ramping, you could set the stepped ramp to be turbo only, and then if you ever needed other output levels, just switch over to the smooth ramp mode instead.

I know whatever we suggest won’t be a solution that you like, but we are trying to provide some options to help you.

Mark M
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lfowner wrote:
kanton wrote:
Can you still get the old D4? Because I really don’t like Anduril. I really hate it on my FW3A

This is how different requirements are. In my personal view Anduril is much better than NarsilM and I wish someone would be able to reprogram my Sofirn Q8 and my Sofirn SP36 from NarsilM to Anduril…

The FW3A is the first light since the last ten years I’ve bought that’s somewhere near to my good old Litefluxes – the best Light ever made since now!

EDIT: on intl-ooutdoor you can still buy the old one:
https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4ti-high-power-flashlight-p-927.html
https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4-high-power-led-flashlight-p-921.html

Just a heads up, both of those are sold out.

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WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
not something I’d want on floody light, but if it’s put on a thrower, that would be very useful.

It’s great fun putting the BLF GT in momentary turbo mode… a bit like having a laser gun. Smile

Nev wrote:
I think the original D4 firmware is better especially the thermal control.

TBH, I’m not really happy with the thermal control on any version of the D4. It heats up so fast that every algorithm I’ve tried ends up either taking too long or going too far… or both. It’s the main reason why I need to make a thermal simulator, so I can test changes quickly instead of spending days at a time just collecting results after each change.

pint wrote:
thermal config, eh?? how do you set that? wont it also change the current temperature settings, or mess those up ?

There are only two thermal settings — sensor calibration and temperature limit. Changing one does not require changing the other.

In most versions, it’s a bit inconvenient to calibrate the sensor. However, it’s important to do so at least once, to allow the thermal regulation to work.

The method used on currently-shipping lights is: Either navigate to thermal config mode the long way (4 clicks at the 4th mode in the blinky group), or do 10 clicks from off to reach that mode directly. Then at the first prompt, click like 22 times to tell it the current temperature is 22 C. Then wait until it falls out of the config mode.

Just within the past week or so though, I finally added an auto-calibrate thingy. It’s part of a “factory reset” function. So in the future, lights will probably be easier to set up initially, and easier to get back to a sane state after changing settings. Basically just disconnect power, hold the button, reconnect power, and keep holding the button for a few seconds. It should get the calibration at least sort of close to accurate, and ensure that any weird settings are reverted back to default.

lfowner
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Mark M wrote:
Just a heads up, both of those are sold out.
Ups. Didn’t saw that, thanks!
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I see a market for both D4s. A cheaper basic model and a more expensive loaded version.

pint
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The only bit im struggling with is thermal config- set upper limit

Nev
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ToyKeeper wrote:
WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
not something I'd want on floody light, but if it's put on a thrower, that would be very useful.
It's great fun putting the BLF GT in momentary turbo mode... a bit like having a laser gun. Smile
Nev wrote:
I think the original D4 firmware is better especially the thermal control.
TBH, I'm not really happy with the thermal control on any version of the D4. It heats up so fast that every algorithm I've tried ends up either taking too long or going too far... or both. It's the main reason why I need to make a thermal simulator, so I can test changes quickly instead of spending days at a time just collecting results after each change.
pint wrote:
thermal config, eh?? how do you set that? wont it also change the current temperature settings, or mess those up ?
There are only two thermal settings -- sensor calibration and temperature limit. Changing one does not require changing the other. In most versions, it's a bit inconvenient to calibrate the sensor. However, it's important to do so at least once, to allow the thermal regulation to work. The method used on currently-shipping lights is: Either navigate to thermal config mode the long way (4 clicks at the 4th mode in the blinky group), or do 10 clicks from off to reach that mode directly. Then at the first prompt, click like 22 times to tell it the current temperature is 22 C. Then wait until it falls out of the config mode. Just within the past week or so though, I finally added an auto-calibrate thingy. It's part of a "factory reset" function. So in the future, lights will probably be easier to set up initially, and easier to get back to a sane state after changing settings. Basically just disconnect power, hold the button, reconnect power, and keep holding the button for a few seconds. It should get the calibration at least sort of close to accurate, and ensure that any weird settings are reverted back to default.

thats probably what I like about it , I like to be the one that turns the brightness down when it’s getting too hot to handle rather than the torch panicking & turning it down in 10-15 seconds & having a dim light when I need a bright light , I can run turbo on my D4 for around a minute before I need to start turning it down but after a minute I don’t usually need it on anymore so it gets turned off & can cool down at its leisure ,it really annoyed me using the fw3a & only having 10 seconds of bright light before it over rules you ,it’s because of that ,that I see it as a useless  edc torch , but I can see why it does it because the fw3a isn’t really man enough to handle a bit of heat. My d18 is awesome with its floody optics & glorious xplhi 6500k leds but is let down by the firmware using that  agressive  thermal throttling, that and the shiny bezel are the only 2 things that lets it down. 

ToyKeeper
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pint wrote:
The only bit im struggling with is thermal config- set upper limit

For that, take the number you want for its limit, subtract 30, and then click that many times at the second menu prompt.

In other words, if you want a limit of 45 C, click 15 times. For 50 C, click 20 times. For 55 C, click 25 times.

It allows anything from 31 C to 70 C (88 F to 158 F).

The default is usually 45 C, which is a bit conservative. But it’s usually good for defaults to err on the side of safety.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
BabyDoc wrote:
I am looking forward to your updated Anduril diagram.

Oops, I still need to do that. I keep getting distracted…


Might have to take down that Chippendale photo. Silly
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ToyKeeper wrote:
pint wrote:
The only bit im struggling with is thermal config- set upper limit

For that, take the number you want for its limit, subtract 30, and then click that many times at the second menu prompt.

In other words, if you want a limit of 45 C, click 15 times. For 50 C, click 20 times. For 55 C, click 25 times.

It allows anything from 31 C to 70 C (88 F to 158 F).

The default is usually 45 C, which is a bit conservative. But it’s usually good for defaults to err on the side of safety.



so, if I am understanding this correctly, default is 45C (which is 113F). Does that mean when the light reaches 113F it steps down? That seems hot to me, and that is conservative? If I’m wrong, appreciate cluing me in, thanks.

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saypat wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
pint wrote:
The only bit im struggling with is thermal config- set upper limit

For that, take the number you want for its limit, subtract 30, and then click that many times at the second menu prompt.

In other words, if you want a limit of 45 C, click 15 times. For 50 C, click 20 times. For 55 C, click 25 times.

It allows anything from 31 C to 70 C (88 F to 158 F).

The default is usually 45 C, which is a bit conservative. But it’s usually good for defaults to err on the side of safety.



so, if I am understanding this correctly, default is 45C (which is 113F). Does that mean when the light reaches 113F it steps down? That seems hot to me, and that is conservative? If I’m wrong, appreciate cluing me in, thanks.


I think your quite safe because when mine worked I set it to maximum 70* & it still stepped down at 45* from cold & about 55* when warm
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45 at a sensor on the driver, not the body tube. Also, if its rising too fast it will try not to overshoot.

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contactcr wrote:
45 at a sensor on the driver, not the body tube. Also, if its rising too fast it will try not to overshoot.

Yes it was from the sensor because I got it to blink out the temperature at step down.
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Nev wrote:
contactcr wrote:
45 at a sensor on the driver, not the body tube. Also, if its rising too fast it will try not to overshoot.
Yes it was from the sensor because I got it to blink out the temperature at step down.

Yep, trying to help saypat understand 45 degrees for internal temp is pretty tame, as you also said.

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contactcr wrote:
Nev wrote:
contactcr wrote:
45 at a sensor on the driver, not the body tube. Also, if its rising too fast it will try not to overshoot.
Yes it was from the sensor because I got it to blink out the temperature at step down.

Yep, trying to help saypat understand 45 degrees for internal temp is pretty tame, as you also said.

45C is also pretty tame even for the body temperature of the light. 50C is getting uncomfortable. 55C is too hot for me, but that probably requires an internal temperature of at least 60C.

I turn off temperature controls on my Astrolux S43, because Narsil is awful at temperature control. It’s usually blinking out an internal temperature of about 70C, when I shut it off due to it getting way too hot. I’m shutting it off with my fingertips at that point.

With copper heads, it feels way hotter at a given temperature. Probably because copper conducts heat out of the interior and into your fingers far better than aluminum.

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I'm curious what happens if temp is programmed to 31C (88F), about the lowest it can be programmed.

I would think the output couldn't go much higher than about 120 lumens??

 

Quote:
55C is too hot for me

By coincidence, the new Convoy S21A is programmed to 55C max (not user adjustable). And yes, I noted it was too hot to comfortably to hold in my review.

My reviews: , My personal collection of lights LINK,  J5 Tactical V1 Pro review LINK,  Thirteen Optical Sensors review LINKZebralight SC700d review LINK,  Ray-O-Vac Super Power Sportsman review LINK,  Convoy S2+ color combos LINK,  How To flash D4V2 LINK.

Nev
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Terry Oregon wrote:

I’m curious what happens if temp is programmed to 31C (88F), about the lowest it can be programmed.


I would think the output couldn’t go much higher than about 120 lumens??


 


Quote:
55C is too hot for me

By coincidence, the new Convoy S21A is programmed to 55C max (not user adjustable). And yes, I noted it was too hot to comfortably to hold in my review.


You’ll probly get turbo for about 1second , the torch is shipped with it set to about 45* & you get turbo for about 3-4 seconds.
When I first got mine I thought it was faulty & unable to do turbo.
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pennzy wrote:
I see a market for both D4s. A cheaper basic model and a more expensive loaded version.

The problem is that will be MUCH more expensive and time consuming for Hank, that’s a huge increase in different models you need to build and stock if all emitters are offered for both models… even worse if you have more than one body color, optional alternate UI, etc. for both models.

He already has the option of saving money by allowing the light to be bought without the pocket clip, with aluminum bezel instead of SS and using cheaper emitters than the XPL HI.

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Rexlion wrote:
Might have to take down that Chippendale photo. Silly

What’s wrong with 18th-century English furniture fashion? Got a thing against rococo ornamentation?

saypat wrote:
so, if I am understanding this correctly, default is 45C (which is 113F). Does that mean when the light reaches 113F it steps down?

Ish.

If the temperature is changing very slowly, it doesn’t respond until it passes the threshold. But if temperature is changing quickly, it reacts before it hits that point. So it may actually start stepping down at like 35 C, in an attempt to avoid overshooting the target temperature. Similarly, if it’s at 60 C but the temperature is dropping quickly, it may actually increase the output. It tries to predict where it will be in the near future, and make adjustments based on that.

It doesn’t always adjust quite how it should though. Sometimes it still overshoots or undershoots, particularly on the D4. Lights with a lower power-to-mass ratio tend to behave better. And lights with a FET+N+1 design tend to behave better than FET-only or FET+1 lights. The extra mid-ramp resolution seems to help the regulation algorithm.

Terry Oregon wrote:
what happens if temp is programmed to 31C (88F), about the lowest it can be programmed.

I would think the output couldn’t go much higher than about 120 lumens??

It would probably think it’s overheating most of the time, especially when hand-held since humans are hotter than 31 C. And then it would stick to the lowest level allowed by the regulation algorithm. On the D4, that’s at the 1×7135 level, or about 130 lumens.

However, turbo would still last for a few seconds. It has a minimum time period before any adjustments are allowed, to make sure the higher levels can always be used as a burst mode. Basically, the thermal warning events are rate-limited to make sure they won’t fire off nonstop. This also guarantees at least a few seconds worth of turbo, even if the light is very hot.

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Terry Oregon wrote:

By coincidence, the new Convoy S21A is programmed to 55C max (not user adjustable). And yes, I noted it was too hot to comfortably to hold

IIRC, Zebralights are set to ramp down at 55C, though that’s adjustable +/- 5C. I’m not sure if they really get that hot, because they don’t feel that bad to me. Yes, they’re getting uncomfortable, but are still very holdable.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
What’s wrong with 18th-century English furniture fashion? Got a thing against rococo ornamentation?

I just narrowly avoided snorting hot coffee out of my nose.

—Bob Q
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TK, as you know I’ve been away for a while. I did order this new D4 V2 when I learned it was for sale and I forgot about the implementation to safeguard the LEDs when using the Nichia 219. A friend advised me to change my order but that wasn’t possible. Is it still true that total output is limited via firmware for this emitter? Probably obvious that I didn’t buy this for absolute power but favoring the rainbow aux display… the light will probably still get hot even given the limitations, right?

Hard to keep up anymore, too much going on outside the realm of lights. Sorry to be asking such elementary questions…

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WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
Terry Oregon wrote:

By coincidence, the new Convoy S21A is programmed to 55C max (not user adjustable). And yes, I noted it was too hot to comfortably to hold

IIRC, Zebralights are set to ramp down at 55C, though that’s adjustable +/- 5C. I’m not sure if they really get that hot, because they don’t feel that bad to me. Yes, they’re getting uncomfortable, but are still very holdable.

I think the sensor in them might actually hit that temp but that single-piece body pulls the heat away so fast the head doesn’t have concentrated heat like on many other lights. If you leave a ZL on the highest mode without any fan or your hand to cool it the whole body heats up to that temp for sure but it takes a while.

DB Custom wrote:
TK, as you know I’ve been away for a while. I did order this new D4 V2 when I learned it was for sale and I forgot about the implementation to safeguard the LEDs when using the Nichia 219. A friend advised me to change my order but that wasn’t possible. Is it still true that total output is limited via firmware for this emitter? Probably obvious that I didn’t buy this for absolute power but favoring the rainbow aux display… the light will probably still get hot even given the limitations, right?

Hard to keep up anymore, too much going on outside the realm of lights. Sorry to be asking such elementary questions…

Assuming they are using the 80% firmware for the 219C version:

It will absolutely get hot fast still because that’s still a ton of wattage for such a small light, and the 219C 90CRI are less efficient than other options like the XPL HI so they will produce more heat.

The loss in perceived brightness from the throttled firmware version isn’t really that much though.

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