Brinyte PD03A Q5 (1xAAA) .... a post from the past

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Vectrex
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sneym321 wrote:

Vectrex wrote:

Mine seems to be glued there between the intersections of the head.

 

Mine was also, I had to apply some force to unscrew it. 

I think the manufacturer thought that o-rings aren't needed if it is sealed by glue. If you watch the videos in this thread, you can see versions of this light with unglued heads and o-rings between the intersections.

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Overdog has received his Brinyte PD03A and also the UF M5 R5. To my surprise he seems to prefer the look, feel and build quality of the Ultafire.

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Vectrex, have you ever measured runtimes of 10440's and Eneloops in the Brinyte?

And do the 47.1mm Protected Ultrafire (not Trustfire) 10440's fit?

Not that i am interested in buying the Brinyte but it is interesting to compare the performances. i measured amperages and runtimes in depth for my AAA lights and am constantly refining the results, see the table at the end of the OP.

it is a fact that the Tank E09 is brighter than the iTP A3 XPGR5 on all levels *with Eneloops*. On 10440's the iTP A3 is brighter on High-mode. Much much brighter. And the amperages confirm my observation.

If the Brinyte is brighter than the E09 on Eneloops, then we need to wonder about runtimes and amperages Wink

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Vectrex
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I don't own 10440...but...

sneym321 wrote:

Hi guys,
I've had this light for about 2years. There are some issues with it that are worth noting. The light draws 1.8 amps oh high with nimh, so runtime is
about 20 minutes. Brightness levels with NiMh are the same as those of geniune ld01, so i'd estimate 80 lumens for high and 8 for low. Protected 10440 do not fit. I had to replace the spring with a new one made of a thinner wire to make them fit. With 10440 the light runs for 30-35 minutes (until protection shuts it down.) Even an instant before shutdown it is brighter with exhausted 10440 than with freshly charged  NiMh. So you gain both in brightness and runtime using Li-ion batteries. By the way, protected 10440 fit genuine Fenix with no problem. At some moment the driver broke down, so I had to replace it. This was not caused by using 10440 as I started using them after the driver started to behave strangely (Well, it was almost ok except that sometimes it didn't turn on. At that point I was no longer afraid to burn it down with Li-ion batteries).  The LED seems to be glued with an ordinary glue.  Also, there should be an o-ring at the junction of the upper and lower part of the head, but it was missing.

I'm not  sure about runtime of the light with 10440 as I started using them when the driver was not working well.

kreisler
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Vectrex wrote:

I don't own 10440...but...

thanks! Do you still use it ? ( apart from good light output, it is clearly longer and heavier than the Tank ) Has amazing current draw on NimH, so looks like it is indeed brighter than the E09!

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Vectrex
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Well, since I have my DQG tiny II on my keychain at all times none of my other AAA lights see much usage any more... the Brinyte is still a nice light and a good alternative for people who don't want to shell out +$30 for a keychain light... especially if you prefer high energy cool white beams and strobe modes... BTW still no news on the tiny III?

Lensman
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PD03B finally got here nearly 8 weeks after ordering from Easylight. This is my first proper twisty since those dark Maglite Solitaire days and straightaway I liked it. There appear to be a couple of small differences from Vectrex's Brinyte PD03A , but overall it seems to be pretty much the same torch. Small, lightweight, plenty bright enough for a keychain light and fit/finish seem excellent. One handed twist action is easier than I thought it would be, and on/off and mode change work perfectly.

To answer the tail magnet question, there isn't one. At the moment this doesn't matter too much as the torch is on my keychain, so a magnet might even get in the way. I may glue one into the tail recess, but it would need to be of a smaller diameter than the tail ring, or the mini split keyring that I've hooked through the lanyard hole, (and which is linked with a bigger keyring), wouldn't be able to swivel freely. I'll see how things go.

Next point to mention is that this torch is three section. The head unscrews easily, which provides the VERY useful mule mode feature, and there's an O ring where it should be. Nice. But I think they've blundered here, because whilst it takes a nice, safe 7+ full turns to unscrew the head, it only needs 3.5 turns for the middle section to go from light off to coming apart. It would be much more sensible if this was the other way around, i.e. 7 turns to come off at the middle, since this is the bit that will always be slightly loosened to start with (until you turn the torch on, of course). 3.5 turns needed to remove the head would be no problem since you can just keep it screwed down tight all the time. Matter of fact, you have to really, as at first I sometimes found that one handedly turning the light off would accidentally loosen the head at the same time.

As Vectrex notes, the on/off and mode changing twisty action is beautifully smooth with just the right amount of friction resistance, but a few times I've caught the two sections at least a full turn-and-a-half apart. I'd be a lot happier with a bigger safety margin than 3.5 turns.

Another potential weakness is the lanyard hole, which is the only way of attaching a split mini-keyring. You can see from the pic below that the placement of the hole leaves only about 1mm of tail ring to hold the keyring. Ok, I'm worrying before it's happened, but that sliver of aluminium can't hold out forever. I'd gladly add a couple more mm to the length of the body for a stronger fixing point. 


What else? Well, tint is perhaps a little on the cool side, but I can only see this when compared alongside the neutral-to-warm tint of my 504b XM-L. It also has maybe a hint of magenta in it, which sounds like a contradiction; cool magenta? Undecided Well, that's what it looks like. But it's very slight, and like I say, only noticeable in comparison. On it's own it looks nice, at least to my eyes.

Vectrex mentions PWM on low, but the only way I can see it is if I splay my fingers and waggle my hand very quickly in the beam, then it gives a sort of multi-image outline effect. This sounds worse than it is; used normally I can't detect any flickering at all, though tbh I'm beginning to wonder if it's possible that I'm just not susceptible to PWM (or if my eyesight isn't good enough). I have at least a dozen budget light models with low modes and I can't detect the sort of seizure inducing PWM some BLF-ers describe on any of them. Strange. And lucky.

Overall, this is a very nice little flashlight. Couple of minor issues mentioned earlier, but I'm pleased with my purchase so far. Thanks for the heads up, Vectrex. I don't own any 10440 batteries to try, but in view of the PD03B's uncertaint track record in that department, maybe just as well. Though I'd love to see..

 

 

 

 

 

 




 

 

 

 

 

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excellent, helpful and very thoughtful quick review -- the way i review torches too hehe, thanks so much. sounds like no major issues with the built quality. you can use silicone grease on the threads (it's sticky stuff!) to increase friction. my lumintop worm SS takes LESS than 3.0 turns (~2.85??) to come off (head byebye) but thanks to its built/construction it's nothing to be concerned about. see my sig ive got the Fenix LD01 from HKE on order; i dont think that its upper head half unscrews easily too. it's not meant to unscrew easily (and it's not meant to have an o-ring there either afaik) and it is called "sealed" by Fenix, so the Brinyte construction differs here.

please could you maybe add some description of the beam pattern? (beam profile, hotspot size, definition, corona, artifacts, symmetry, spill size, doughnut hole)

 

i will surely measure runtimes of the LD01 release 4.

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Thanks kreisler. I'm afraid my reviewing style is very much the 'layman's overview' type. Yes, as soon as I get time I'll add a few more details, maybe photos if I can remember how to do it. Stay tuned though, as I may have to ask as I go along what some of those beam qualities actually are, e.g. artifacts (?)  :~

Also, re runtimes, can these be done by eye? The only measuring/testing equipment I have are a photographic lightmeter and a DMM. I'm guessing that you just load a fresh battery, turn light on, and then time it until it's too dim to use? Or just until there's a noticeable reduction in output? DMM help at all? And is it ok to leave the light on high constantly, or should I turn it off for 10 minutes or so periodically to let it cool?

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Lensman wrote:

Also, re runtimes, can these be done by eye? The only measuring/testing equipment I have are a photographic lightmeter and a DMM. I'm guessing that you just load a fresh battery, turn light on, and then time it until it's too dim to use? Or just until there's a noticeable reduction in output? DMM help at all? And is it ok to leave the light on high constantly, or should I turn it off for 10 minutes or so periodically to let it cool?

'artifacts' are distortions and deviations from the beautiful symmetry of perfect geometrical shape. if the corona looks defined starry (instead of diffuse or perfectly round defined hotspot) or if the beam pattern is one-sided irregular (asymmetric), then you'd call all those disturbing defined patterns 'artifacts'.

Runtimes just by eye. When the light dims, it dims fast (typically within 6-8mins) so that it becomes apparent to exchange the cell. Lightmeters and DMM are helpful too but it is accurate enough to clock the time when you see that the light has already begun to dim considerably.

you should wrap the torch in a wet piece of cloth (flannel, washrag, washcloth) when running on high-mode (Eneloop). On 10400's you.. erh.. should buy some 10440's haha Big Smile

Runtime on High-mode is short (as reported in this thread), so you could also hold it in your hand, firmly. On Eneloop torches in hands never get tooo hot to hold in hands. I even hold my Xeno E03 XML with 14500's in my bare hands for the duration of the 14500 cell's runtime (~40mins). You can also wet your bare hands, and THEN hold the torch.

thanks for contributions in this thread!!

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kreisler wrote:

thanks for contributions in this thread!!

Absolutely the least I can do. Comparing my tuppence worth to your reviews is like comparing a Maglite Solitaire to a Keygos KE5! Wink

Seriously, thanks for getting back with the above info. Very useful stuff. I'll see what I can do later today after dark. Must remember to buy a pack of AAA's (don't have eneloops either Embarassed)

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Lensman wrote:
Very useful stuff. I'll see what I can do later today after dark. Must remember to buy a pack of AAA's (don't have eneloops either Embarassed)

haha, that was a compliment thanks!

pack of AAA's .. *gg* .. AAA's have a very different discharge curve at high loads (currents). already after a 3-5 minutes they cant provide the 1.5-2.0A which our Cree lights (Brinyte, Tank007, ..) *demand* from the cell. The driver of the power LED lights demand 2.0A and the Alkaline provides 1.0A only. Result, light dims already.

I do have expensive NiMH cells (VARTA, German company). Those too have a poor discharge curve at those currents. Therefore i've come to the conclusion that only Eneloops are the perfect companion for power LED lights. ( i dont know about Lithium primaries, Energizer )

whatever suits you.. thanks!

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Right, that's my next purchase sorted. AA and AAA eneloops. I'm guessing I'll need a charger too, unless my li-ion charger will also work with eneloops? Thx again.

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Lensman wrote:
unless my li-ion charger will also work with eneloops?

depends on your charger model. some can, most cant Wink

the intellicharger i4 by Jetbeam does them all.

that's on *my* wishlist.

hehe

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Lensman wrote:

To answer the tail magnet question, there isn't one. At the moment this doesn't matter too much as the torch is on my keychain, so a magnet might even get in the way. I may glue one into the tail recess, but it would need to be of a smaller diameter than the tail ring, or the mini split keyring that I've hooked through the lanyard hole, (and which is linked with a bigger keyring), wouldn't be able to swivel freely. I'll see how things go.

Glad that you like the light overall. If you ever decide that you want to glue a magnet in place contact me via PM, I just got 5 pcs 10X3mm neodymium which fit perfectly. They hold the light horizontally without even gluing, just with pure magnetic power.

Lensman wrote:

Next point to mention is that this torch is three section.

So yours isn't glued like mine obviously.

Lensman wrote:

It also has maybe a hint of magenta in it, ...

Tint lottery as usual.

Lensman wrote:

Vectrex mentions PWM on low, but the only way I can see it is if I splay my fingers and waggle my hand very quickly in the beam, then it gives a sort of multi-image outline effect.

Yes, it uses PWM but a high frequency, not the low frequency of the first ITP A3 or the Tank007 E09. Mine has the same undetectable PWM levels as the new ITP A3 XP-G versions and from the "sound check" even higher. (You can actually hear the PWM when holding the light very close to your ear.... ghetto-style PWM frequency tester Wink )

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Vectrex wrote:
I just got 5 pcs 10X3mm neodymium which fit perfectly. They hold the light horizontally without even gluing, just with pure magnetic power.

Vectrex, please could you show us photos your installed magnet? (is it a single magnet?) And what about the keyring hole for the split ring... can the splitring still move and swivel freely?

aluminum itself isnt very magnetic afaik.. Without loaded batteries, does the magnet still attach firmly to the tail?

i would be interested for my incoming Fenix LD01, thanks! Great thread!!

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Magnet pulls on the internal spring,battery and my fenix clip (might be the only reason it works) through the alu (insane power for their size), but you loose the keyring hole... but the fenix clip I use on my light has also a hole where a split ring could be applied... not the most elegant solution, but doable in a pinch. My keychain is reserved for the DQG ... I use the Brinyte as small clip-on mainly. It is a single magnet with 3 mm height 10 mm diameter... I got it on Ebay but shipping took forever ~65 days. China Post is horribly slow these days.

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Hm. I've spent the past hour looking for a good deal on eneloops and chargers. Too much choice. Fast or slow charger? Multi-format, or Ni-mh dedicated? This looks ok, but I'm always happier with an expert recommendation: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNiROSS-SPRINT-90-FAST-CHARGER-8-x-AA-SANYO-EN...

Not trying to wriggle out of my duties here, but is there much point in doing the run time test on alkies? Or should it wait til I've got the eneloop thing sorted? Thinking of your previous post, kreisler:

"The driver of the power LED lights demand 2.0A and the Alkaline provides 1.0A only. Result, light dims already."

Should have got myself sorted with eneloops before now, just never seemed to get around to it..

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please no test on Alkalines, the cells simply cant provide the current which the driver demands, so performance of the light will be surprisingly dull Smile

will check the Eneloops ..

--

i understand. since i luv accessories i should get such a magnet too BEFORE i decide to install and use it or not Big Smile i guess you found them with FREE shipping Wink

i will take measurements from the LD01 and the Lumintop Worm SS. no pic Vectrex? Smile

--

is this where you got yours from?

ebay

 

EDIT: i've measured the Tank E09. It's tail orifice (for the 10x3mm neodymium) is: 11.00x3.00mm. Perfect! True, the keyring hole would be inaccessible then.

The Worm's tail orifice is: 11.00x4.81mm so there would be an air gap of almost 2.0mm between the surface (e.g. refrigderator :D) and the magnet. i am not sure if this gap is bridged by the attractive force of the magnet :? (keyring attachment gone too)

the LD01 would be similar to Brinyte

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No cam available right now... maybe tomorrow

These ones from the bay of E's, but shipping was slowest of slow... better try your link.

The brinyte is as close as it gets to a  perfect clone of the LD01 from pictures I saw on the net. Somewhere where even side by side pictures, but can't find the bookmark anymore.

Sent from my xphone

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the ebay seller sells (5,6,7,8,10)mm x 3mm disc magnets, so would you believe that a smaller one than your suggested 10x3 is strong enough too?

keyrings (split rings) are magnetic too, so maybe keychain carry with split ring(s)+magnet is not the most practical idea. the magnet force would not let the split ring swivel, tss.

10x3 is optimal you think -- not too much strength? (yep, would love to see several pix as illustration. my hirn is too weak to imagine the beautiful fit hehe)

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Will try to upload some tomorrow... I would be worried for bank/credit-cards... I will not install them permanently... too strong. I will use them for car/motorcycle repairs when I don't have a headlamp with me, or when I need a fixed light source. They are cheap ... so if you don't like them on your lights... they make great refrigerator magnets.

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Vectrex wrote:
I will not install them permanently...

this is a convincing argument, thanks!! even a 5x3mm would be too strong and also mess with the splitring(s). i should regard the magnet really as accessory only as in your great example (work, repairs, vehicles, ..) and not carry it on the light all day long (the DQG Tiny II has a magnet. cant wait to see the DQG Tiny III sample on cpfmp!).

for work purposes, i do have my gorillapod with magnetic feet. it holds 20mm diameter torches (1x AA) very well and bigger ones (1x 18650). it's accessory too.


Finally i have understood what the magnet is good for: not for everyday carry and permanent installation but for sporadic application in very rare situations ( work Wink )

Am going to place the ebay order now for 10x3mm. that fits nicely into Tank E09, Fenix LD01 and Worm SS. ... okéeee..

EDIT: just ordered the warhammer neodymium 10x3mm!!

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Lensman wrote:

Hm. I've spent the past hour looking for a good deal on eneloops and chargers. Too much choice. Fast or slow charger? Multi-format, or Ni-mh dedicated? This looks ok, but I'm always happier with an expert recommendation: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNiROSS-SPRINT-90-FAST-CHARGER-8-x-AA-SANYO-EN...

Not trying to wriggle out of my duties here, but is there much point in doing the run time test on alkies? Or should it wait til I've got the eneloop thing sorted? Thinking of your previous post, kreisler:

"The driver of the power LED lights demand 2.0A and the Alkaline provides 1.0A only. Result, light dims already."

Should have got myself sorted with eneloops before now, just never seemed to get around to it..

 

I'm not that fond of Uniross chargers in general - quite a few of them turned out to be battery cookers as they missed termination. 

 

This one is decent and not expensive.

http://www.7dayshop.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=777_3&products_id...

 

A pack of 8 eneloops

http://www.7dayshop.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=777_3&products_id...

 

and the above charger will come to less than the eBay deal. And has (IMO) a better charger.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

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kreisler wrote:
will check the Eneloops ..

found it. my contribution went herein:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/5102

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Thanks, I'll check out the links. At the moment I'm stuggling to upload some pictures. Had it all done, tried to preview, and for some reason it all disappeared! Yell Talk among yourselves for a bit. Oh, you have been :\

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while talking, we waitin' for ya! Silly

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No, not letting me do it. Maybe too many pics at once? I can't make the image URL/tree icon method work, so I've been trying to copy/paste the pictures themselves direct from Photobucket. I'll try one at a time. In the meantime I'll try to answer some of kreisler's earlier questions.

Hotspot is about 18cm in diameter at 1m distance. Spill diameter, including hotspot, is 1.2 M. There appears to be no doughnut hole or beam artifacts, though to be honest I'm not sure my eye is attuned enough to recognize these yet. Beam has a Saturn ring outside it, and appears slightly lopsided (off centre emitter?) Let's try just one beamshot pic.

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My DQG Tiny II has a glow dot... for the same reasons... wallet and keychain are often in close proximity how I carry them

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System seems to be struggling with the pics. Are they too big, maybe? I'll try a couple more. If this works, here's the Brynite with its new friends

Thanks to a very well placed notch machined into the tail ring the Brynite can tailstand even when attached to the keys