Someone has YouTubed the muggle bug , I was asking the other day if there was one & I think someone else posted that they would like a video to be made ,here it is.
Don’t suffer through 8 minutes of dance music to watch this idiot burn himself just skip to 7:00 minutes
Not really, even my dog knows not to touch the oven. However, I see software bugs and ID-10T errors every day.
Thanks!
Is this switch assembly glued to the body? People reported they were not able to reliably reattach it to the D4V2.
Don’t 6 click into Muggle Mode and if you do, make sure your cell is at 4.20v-4.00v. Absent that, just 6 click out of Muggle Mode and you’re golden.
Not too difficult, bugs and all.
Chris
I’m glad someone made a video, I bet there’s a few people out there who didn’t get the warning ,& are still clueless , some may have been gifted it etc , a basic D4 search on google should bring it up & also to this forum ,we need to educate muggles.
It would be nice to know how many were sold & how many have reflashed it & how many are still out there, I think when these warnings were sent it would have been wise to ask for an email to confirm it’s been read & understood. And at least an offer from any shop that sold it should ask for it to be sent back for the people who cannot reflash it.
God forbid,I hope any don’t get resold on eBay.
Thanks for saying that I’m an idiot, contactcr 
How’s the fingers? 
How’s the button!
Thanks for the effort Kit. :+1:
Interesting to see the button just … fall off when he turns it off. I guess it’s a press-fit and the aluminium expands too much ?
Why did you shut it off ? :person_facepalming:
Would of been wonderful to see the final result… :+1:
Kit Latura, which emitters does your D4 have?
I wonder if it came on in full turbo or at the max ramp level. I’m not sure there is an easy way to tell.
The question came to mind because the firmware normally ramps it down within about 15 seconds on turbo, but here it ran for ~1 minute, 50 seconds.
That’s definitely a viable theory. Aluminum has a higher coefficient of thermal expansion than steel, so the hole would tend to enlarge more than the retaining ring for the switch. From a quick calculation, I think the change would be about ~0.001”, which is right around the amount of nominal interference typically used in a press fit design of that size.
What did you expect to see? ¿My house on fire?
The switch fall off and then I burn my finger. Then just * censured
XP-L HI. I think it’s about 1000 lumens.
Thanks hIKARInoob 
The light shutting off, one of the lead’s de-soldering or battery going into thermal shut down/battery dying…I have killed a couple 18650’s from heat…nothing dramatic ever happened… Lithium Primaries are a different story…
But then again you did do your “test” if it was, in your house, absent of any safety devices, not even a simple pair of gloves? Not too smart.
How do you know there aren’t any safety devices? And why isn’t this too smart?
Just playing devils advocate here ,
Why would you need safety devices ?,a lot of people claim it’s not dangerous!
It’s not as if the lens is near anything combustible.
Good to see you using all that pent up energy to help spread the word…. Oh, hang on. That wasn’t you at all. Thanks Kit :+1:
I don’t know what that means ,but thanks.
Posts here about what should/could be done doesn’t help anyone. Kit is putting the word out instead of beating a dead horse talking to people that already know about the issue.