Just got a 2006 Ford Escape for $200, Trying to make it a daily driver for cheap

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Muto
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Texas_Ace wrote:

Although a true manual steering rack can feel really nice. My MR2 has a manual rack and it has one of the best if not the best steering feel of any car I have owned.

Your MR2 has the best steering feel because it is mid engine:)
Best center of gravity.
Go Cart with a license plate.

Had the Fiat X/19, same good feel deal, but not near the quality of car as your Toyota.

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Keith

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lol, yeah, that is part of it but I was talking more about just normal driving and turning the wheel vs on track performance.

On track you are correct, the MR2 has a magic and that is why I kept the MR2 but sold dozens of other sports cars over the years.

Muto
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Picked up a 1987 Mazda B2000 SE5 a couple months back, 2 owners 59,000 miles and it has manual steering and it’s been a while since I drove a car without power steering and although it is kind of hard to muscle at low speeds the road feel is so awesome, it took me back to when most cars had manual steering and the pluses and minuses to them.

Was real glad it did not have power steering as the ignition switch would suddenly cut out, lost power brakes but steering was normal!
Fixed that with some electric motor cleaner, just was hogged up from sitting I guess.
Love the fact that it can be licensed as Antique and the low insurance rates that come with that.

Later,
Keith

The difference between Hoarding and Collecting is the illusion of Organization
.
.“I will get one of flashlight from patrol car”

“History doesn’t repeat itself, but it sometimes rhymes,” Mark Twain

After the Apocalypse there will be only 2 things left alive, Cockroaches and Keith Richards

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@Texas Ace, I’ll be so happy when we’ll be able to get used electric cars for very low prices, and then replace the battery pack and mod the motors with liquid cooling for absolute maximum performance.

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Electric cars are really cool. I also am excited for the day when they are a viable option.

The weak link are the batteries. Put simply, electric cars will never be what some people think they are until the next generation of batteries are discovered. The current batteries are too heavy, expensive, toxic, bad for the environment (no matter how much some try to tell you otherwise), bulky and just plain fragile to make electric cars mainstream replacements for gas powered cars.

There are just too many limitations on lithium technology and they are already pushing the limits of the tech.

When the next gen batteries come out, that is when I will start considering electric cars a viable option for low-mid range cars.

Although even then you have the issue of you are simply moving the pollution from the tailpipe to the power plant. Which interestingly generally has worse emissions then modern cars.

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That’s actually not the case.

Even coal power plants are more efficient in terms of power output vs cars, even without taking into account refining.

That last point is especially worrying, as most electric/gas comparisons always take into account for battery pack pollution production(which is being worked on BTW), but not refining, transportation, etc.

To refine petroleum, you need quite a bit of energy/liter, which does give an advantage to EVs again, albeit small at 5kWh/gal of gas.

TLDR: Gas cars are worse environmentally in every possible way.

Better TLDR: We should have gotten off our butts earlier so we could’ve gotten better cells earlier, so better battery packs earlier, etc.

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And don’t forget lithium batteries can and are recycled. With gas, it all goes into the air we breath. Then the cycles starts again new with drilling, transport, refining, transport, burning.

And let’s not forget many people have hydro-electric power, which is renewable. It’s just not in the news because it’s not as fun to talk about.

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And honestly, if I could find a Tesla battery pack, I’d just hook it up to tens/100s of COB LEDs to see how much brightness we can get. Smile

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
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Muto wrote:
Was real glad it did not have power steering as the ignition switch would suddenly cut out, lost power brakes but steering was normal!

My old Cav had perfect PS for most of its life (20something years), but the PS pump had a wobbly pulley (ever-so-slightly bent shaft, actually). Only when someone mistensioned the belt (too tight or too loose, no idea), it kept jumping the track and taking the AC with it. Water pump was the innermost track, so was more or less safe.

Anyhoo, I did without PS for a while, was worried about safety, even, in case of emergency manœvers, etc., and parking was a beeyotch, but I got used to it. In fact, I built up so much upper-body strength that I had no more inclination to replace the belt. Even parking got easier.

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I’ve got a 1970 F250 with a 8’ snow plow on it. Came through with no power brakes and ne power steering. We eventually retrofitted the brakes because it just would not stop but it still has manual steering. Only used for snow plowing my own driveway anymore but what a bull to steer it’s whole life.

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On a hunch I disconnected the battery and let it sit to reset the ECU. Took it for a drive today and it feels better.

Engine runs perfectly and while there is still not ample power down low I think I am now at the point of it just being an small engine power level.

I also realized that the transmission constantly wants to upshift and hold higher gears so it makes it feel like it has less power then it does in many cases. Just got to get used to the transmission shifts I think. My 4runner shifts much differently and you have a button to make it shift even more “sporty”. So Combined with 2x the torque on the 4runner, I think the escape will just take some getting used to.

I wish I had the 5 speed version. If I did I would seriously consider turbo’ing the escape, the engine apparently can handle some mild boost, the auto trans on the other hand will explode if you think about it.

I just added up all the receipts for this Escape and it is a classic case of nickle and dime attack lol.

Looks like at this point I have a total of $630 in getting this car daily derivable with a few things still needing to be done such as the diesel treatment (want to make sure I am done working under the car before I spray under there), body work, radio and getting another key made for example.

I am quite happy with that. Minus the rust on the fenders it is really in very good condition and drives way better then I expected for a $200 car. I also still have the choice of selling it for $1500-2000 once the fenders are fixed.

Thanks again for all the help everyone.

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I’m glad it worked out Smile So does the $630 include the purchase price too?

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Joshk wrote:
I’m glad it worked out Smile So does the $630 include the purchase price too?

Yep, that is the total I have into it (minus a few small receipts I lost but I rounded up to account for some of those).

I figure with the body work that will be another ~$100 or so but will easily raise the value by far more then that.

The keys are $25

So not like a massive payday but still a respectable profit when it comes time to sell for the work I put into it plus I get to drive it basically for free until then.

Not as good as a 300zx turbo I got for $300 that was MINT but had a blown engine. Managed to swap in a better engine and get it running good for around $1500 total and sold it for $5500 IIRC. Still pretty good though. I actually still miss that 300zx. Had the offer not been so good I would of kept it, that and a black on black RX7 also in mint condition are the only 2 cars I still regret selling.

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I think I have decided that getting the whole radio is the best option for the price.

It should add some value to the car when I sell it, at least enough to pay for itself I would think with a double din touch screen radio. Just wish I could find reviews for them but guess it will be a case of me having to do a review myself.

Hmm, maybe I could talk one of them into sending me one in exchange for a review… worth a shot I suppose. In fact banggood sells them, maybe I can use a contact on BLF to arrange that, if anyone thinks that is possible send me a PM.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
I also realized that the transmission constantly wants to upshift and hold higher gears so it makes it feel like it has less power then it does in many cases. Just got to get used to the transmission shifts I think.

Any kickdown cable to speak of, or is the tranny electronically controlled?

A shift kit would be too pricey, but…

(added: …I’ve seen it work wonders.)

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Lightbringer wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
I also realized that the transmission constantly wants to upshift and hold higher gears so it makes it feel like it has less power then it does in many cases. Just got to get used to the transmission shifts I think.

Any kickdown cable to speak of, or is the tranny electronically controlled?

A shift kit would be too pricey, but…

(added: …I’ve seen it work wonders.)

No kick down cable that I can see, just the throttle cable and the cruise control. Although I have not really looked for one.

Yeah a shift kit is not worth it but mostly it explains why it feels super duper sluggish sometimes and others it just feels like a lower powered 4 banger in an SUV. For example if you slow down to 5mph in a parking lot it will keep you in 2nd gear for some reason so you have like zero power until you give it enough gas to kick down to 1st gear.

On the highway it will kick down almost too easy. When going up very slight grades it will need to kick down a gear to maintain speed unless you feather the throttle.

I think if it would not kick down it could maintain speed in overdrive in some cases but still, it doesn’t like maintain speeds over 65mph in overdrive without downshifting on inclines.

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Haven’t read the whole thread but…

Check the rear wheel wells THOROUGHLY for rust. It’s a known issue…

Check the front ball joints and inner tie rods for any play. If they have to be replaced, there are two versions of the inner tierods as the hybrid takes a slightly different part and both require a goofy 33.6mm tool. I own a tool made by Lisle for this.

4wd versions are known to have a lot of issues with the rear diff/transfercase/ whatever… Luckily, mine is FWD.

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prototype3a wrote:
Haven’t read the whole thread but…

Check the rear wheel wells THOROUGHLY for rust. It’s a known issue…

Check the front ball joints and inner tie rods for any play. If they have to be replaced, there are two versions of the inner tierods as the hybrid takes a slightly different part and both require a goofy 33.6mm tool. I own a tool made by Lisle for this.

4wd versions are known to have a lot of issues with the rear diff/transfercase/ whatever… Luckily, mine is FWD.

Thanks for the heads up.

I think I posted pictures in post 43. The wheel wells do indeed have a fair amount of rust, luckily there still appears to be metal under it so I should be able to do the repair myself. The door sills also have some rust as well but thankfully all the other rust is just surface rust and nothing I am worried about.

I didn’t specifically pay attention to the ball joints and tie rods but I gave all the suspension components a looking over when under the car and did not notice any excessive play or visible issues. I will check them close next time I am working on it. I know the steering feels really tight and it drives good.

I am hyper sensitive to feeling issues when driving a car, most likely due to my racing years. I can feel when one of my cars is just slightly out of alignment and normally can give a pretty good guess on where the issue is. Always surprises the techs doing the alignment.

I will keep that in mind for the 4wd, thankfully it looks like it is all in working condition now that the tone ring is fixed. That said when changing the fluids in them I could tell they are not exactly beefy.

Since you seem to know about these, do you know if it is normal for the 2.3l to struggle to maintain 65+mph on slight inclines and need to downshift?

Also is it normal for it to feel lazy off the line but pick up good power once you get above ~3k rpm?

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I own the hybrid which is Atkinson cycle and so it’s a 2.3L but with even less power. However, my hybrid can “cheat” since it has an eCVT transmission unlike your pure ICE Escape.

I almost forgot about the tone rings on the Escapes. I replaced mine several years ago and I haven’t had any problems since.
.

The Hybrids, honestly, have a lot more issues than the pure ICE Escapes and at this point, I doubt I would take one if it was given to me.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
I also realized that the transmission constantly wants to upshift and hold higher gears so it makes it feel like it has less power then it does in many cases. Just got to get used to the transmission shifts I think. My 4runner shifts much differently and you have a button to make it shift even more “sporty”. So Combined with 2x the torque on the 4runner, I think the escape will just take some getting used to.

My understanding of the Escapes (and related Mazda/whatever) was that they were in a no-man’s land for fuel efficiency. The V6 is almost too much for them, but with the fours they’re underpowered. I know Ford did everything they could to try to gimmick the MPG higher on them (particularly with regards to the EPA cycle), and that’s also why they got a hybrid version so quickly. But that’s probably why the transmission shifts so funny, aside from the fact that just every Ford automatic I’ve driven shifts pretty stupid.
From what I hear the ecoboost is perfect for it.
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prototype3a wrote:
I own the hybrid which is Atkinson cycle and so it’s a 2.3L but with even less power. However, my hybrid can “cheat” since it has an eCVT transmission unlike your pure ICE Escape.

I almost forgot about the tone rings on the Escapes. I replaced mine several years ago and I haven’t had any problems since.
.

The Hybrids, honestly, have a lot more issues than the pure ICE Escapes and at this point, I doubt I would take one if it was given to me.

I have never understood hybrids honestly. You have to drive them for a long time to make up for the extra up front cost and you sacrifice performance for a bit of MPG increase all while getting a heavier car that is less efficient all the time.

Personally I would just get a more fuel efficient car or a diesel over a hybrid. I have always been interested in a VW TDI for example. Big fan of diesels, I wish the EPA would update the emission laws to allow more diesels like in Europe.

I remember a Honda prototype that was getting ~90mpg in the real world (as reviewed by some magazines) using a diesel engine but it was never brought to market due to emission laws (that still don’t make a lot of sense).

I do like CVT transmissions though. My Grandmothers car has one and while it is a bit odd at first the performance is solid. Too bad they have not figured out how to make them handle bigger power.

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Scallywag wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
I also realized that the transmission constantly wants to upshift and hold higher gears so it makes it feel like it has less power then it does in many cases. Just got to get used to the transmission shifts I think. My 4runner shifts much differently and you have a button to make it shift even more “sporty”. So Combined with 2x the torque on the 4runner, I think the escape will just take some getting used to.
My understanding of the Escapes (and related Mazda/whatever) was that they were in a no-man’s land for fuel efficiency. The V6 is almost too much for them, but with the fours they’re underpowered. I know Ford did everything they could to try to gimmick the MPG higher on them (particularly with regards to the EPA cycle), and that’s also why they got a hybrid version so quickly. But that’s probably why the transmission shifts so funny, aside from the fact that just every Ford automatic I’ve driven shifts pretty stupid. From what I hear the ecoboost is perfect for it.

Having driven this, I can totally understand that. This engine is a bit underpowered but a V6 could be considered too much power for normal people I suppose (I don’t believe too much power exists, only too much right foot).

Toss a turbo on this engine on the other hand and I could see that being a really nice daily driver for most people.

So yeah, a ecoboost would be a perfect fit. I am a massive fan of the ecoboost lineup. I just want a V8 ecoboost to come out already.

Ford Mustang V8 turbo putting the demon in it’s place? Yes please.

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I’ve owned at least a dozen Mazdas, mostly Miatas (indestructible), and still have a 2005 MPV.

The MPV eats coils, I’ve replaced at least 10 coils in 120K miles and not very long ago, they were $100 each. Last time yet another
coil started acting up, I found them for $20 at RockAuto (and elsewhere).

Every time that I replace a back coil, I replace all 3 and save the good ones as spares (PITA to remove the manifold
to get to the rear coils). I’m pleasantly surprised that the cheap coils have been fine since maybe 6+ months ago.

If your EGR hose is oddly shaped as is mine, they are weak and thin and collapse/tear easily. I found a mod online to use thick and short sections
of coolant hose and copper elbows. It’ll never collapse again. And the stock hose is also $100, mod is like $3.

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siata94 wrote:
I’ve owned at least a dozen Mazdas, mostly Miatas (indestructible), and still have a 2005 MPV.

The MPV eats coils, I’ve replaced at least 10 coils in 120K miles and not very long ago, they were $100 each. Last time yet another
coil started acting up, I found them for $20 at RockAuto (and elsewhere).

Every time that I replace a back coil, I replace all 3 and save the good ones as spares (PITA to remove the manifold
to get to the rear coils). I’m pleasantly surprised that the cheap coils have been fine since maybe 6+ months ago.

If your EGR hose is oddly shaped as is mine, they are weak and thin and collapse/tear easily. I found a mod online to use thick and short sections
of coolant hose and copper elbows. It’ll never collapse again. And the stock hose is also $100, mod is like $3.

Thanks for the info. I am happy with the cheap coils I got so far, they did clean things up nicely right off the bat and the reviews on amazon seemed to say they worked good.

Not real surprising when you think about what is inside them, nothing more then a coil of copper wire and a way to get it to the spark plug / keep it from shorting out elsewhere.

I don’t recall the EGR hose being anything abnormal but I will check again. I know I checked all the vacuum lines I could see and all were in good condition with no signs of age or cracks. They are obviously not OEM hoses, someone replaced all the lines it appears not that long ago. My guess would be either when it was purchased from a dealer a year ago or when the prior owner took it in for service shortly after.

He spent $2k on the car then another $500 a short time later where a shop replaced a coil, valve cover gasket and something else small.

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siata94 wrote:
If your EGR hose is oddly shaped as is mine, they are weak and thin and collapse/tear easily. I found a mod online to use thick and short sections of coolant hose and copper elbows. It’ll never collapse again. And the stock hose is also $100, mod is like $3.

That’d be a kewl build-it thread on BudgetHoseForum. LOL

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Texas_Ace wrote:
Personally I would just get a more fuel efficient car or a diesel over a hybrid. I have always been interested in a VW TDI for example. Big fan of diesels, I wish the EPA would update the emission laws to allow more diesels like in Europe.

Back in the Jurassic Era, I knew someone who cleaned up by running TDIs. Daily-driver was a Rabbit, I think. Diesel was waaaaaay cheaper than regular gasoline, and he was getting some obscene gas-mileage in that little rat-car. Was it a turbo diesel? Forgot.

 

Ah, mightta been: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volkswagen_Golf_Mk1 .

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Pretty sure those old rabbits were just normal diesels.

I knew some guys that delivered pizza and they swore by the TDI cars, getting much better mileage then basically anything else. Geo metros were also popular delivery cars. Both options would regularly get over 40mpg even back in the 90’s. Some modded the diesels and would get upwards of 50mpg IIRC. Numbers that are still very impressive even by most hybrids today.

Imagine if they had another 20 years of R&D put into them without the EPA restrictions (they are heavily biased against diesels for some reason). I think we could legitimately be seeing 60-70mpg+ diesel cars for sale today.

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I’m talking late ’80s, and I’m just short of being sure they were turbo diesels. And yeah, talk of 50mpg came up back then, when I was barely cracking 20 in my high-strung 4-banger (88hp(!!) 2.0L, 9.3:1 CR).

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Yeah, I was thinking of early 80’s rabbits but they might of added a turbo option later.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
I have never understood hybrids honestly. You have to drive them for a long time to make up for the extra up front cost and you sacrifice performance for a bit of MPG increase all while getting a heavier car that is less efficient all the time.

Personally I would just get a more fuel efficient car or a diesel over a hybrid. I have always been interested in a VW TDI for example. Big fan of diesels, I wish the EPA would update the emission laws to allow more diesels like in Europe.

I remember a Honda prototype that was getting ~90mpg in the real world (as reviewed by some magazines) using a diesel engine but it was never brought to market due to emission laws (that still don’t make a lot of sense).

I do like CVT transmissions though. My Grandmothers car has one and while it is a bit odd at first the performance is solid. Too bad they have not figured out how to make them handle bigger power.

My experience has been that it is generally fuel efficient and even more so when towing or if you live somewhere flat where you’re not running it at high “power” for long periods of time climbing mountains. (battery isn’t anywhere large enough to handle the regen on the downslope to compensate for power expended on upslope)

FWIW, I generally get ~32mpg living here in the mountains of VA and I get an astounding 18mpg pulling my trailer.

Granted, newer engines and transmissions today can equal the performance of my FEH and I too would rather have a nice diesel but alas, we live in the United States of Gasoline where we can’t get diesel cars.

My biggest gripe with hybrids is that they’re not well engineered and so I’m basically waiting for my brakes to fail which will total the car. They also suck to drive in the summer because of how the AC works.

My next vehicle will likely be a small gasoline pickup truck and I really wish there was a good option for a CVT because I love the eCVT on my FEH.

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