First Post, choosing between a TR-J12 and FandyFire L1

Hey, First post here, been browsing this forum for a short while and soaking up some of the knowledge. Very useful, thanks all :)

I've been a big fan of the cheaper chinese lights since picking up a SpiderFire SSC P7, which is still serving me strong. My first decent LED torch was a Fenix TK11, but after seeing the light from the SSC P7, I was turned to cheaper lights and now have a couple of XM-L based lights - beam shots of them all here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/siftah/sets/72157626517017579/with/5684835833/

I've convinced myself I really need a 5xXM-L based light, so I'm currently deciding between these two, the TrustFire TR-J12 and the FandyFire L1. I suspect I'll go for the TrustFire as I like the other TrustFire light I have.

:)

Welcom to BLF Siftah, nice to see another Limey here I've yet to buy my first 'cannon' so I can't advise, but I always check out a promising link so thanks for posting. Of the two above, the Trustfire definitely looks the better design to me, although someone (much) more knowledgable might tell you it's actually awful.. I'll watch this thread with interest.

I think us Brits are in the minority on the flashlight forums, else I guess they'd be called the torch forums instead :)

Tending towards the TrustFire myself, certainly looks more robust, though the heatsinking on the FandyFire looks like it *should* be better, from the reviews I've seen of the same torch made with other brands on it, I think the Trustfire's likely to be better made.

Suspect I'll be hitting 'buy' on the TrustFire before the weekend's out :)

Yes, I did wonder about the minimal 'finning' on the TF, but it just looks better built somehow, more robust; certainly better balanced. Also has mode memory, and it looks like it can tailstand Most folks probably wouldn't consider this a particularly useful feature on such a long heavy torch, but solid tailstand will always be a big plus in my book. I'm sure some of the old hands here will offer much more informed advice..

TR J12 has about 2000 lummens real, but it's driven by 7.5A its 1.5 each led, fandyfire only 3A its about 0.6A each led.

Well that pretty much decides that then :)

*pulls the trigger*

Well I got back off holiday today to find it had arrives whilst I was away - seems to be DOA though :(

Will have to have a play later and see what's up, looks nice apart from that, good build quality and even comes with a decent little carry pouch.

It needs decent batteries or it will trip the protection

I'm using the 2400mAh TrustFire 18650's with the flame design. They're protected so maybe it's tripping the protection on the cell itself.

Will have a go with some unprotected cells later (hopefully I have some) :)

I'm waiting on a Trustfire TR-J12 myself. Should be here in a couple of weeks.

Where did you get the TF Flames? You tried using 3 x 18650? Batteries fully charged and verified with DMM?

DealExtreme, have had them a few months and been using them successfully in other torches; http://www.dealextreme.com/p/trustfire-protected-18650-3-7v-true-2400mah-rechargeable-lithium-batteries-2-pack-20392

Tried both 3 and 2 cells with the same results (ie: with and without the extension tube). Shaking the torch there doesn't feel to be any movement, ie: I expect that contact is being made on the battery terminals.

Haven't checked the cells with a DMM but I charged them less than a week ago when I took them away with me on holiday as back-up cells. I'm pretty sure they're charged.

:)

Hmm...that sounds about right. Tried using a key as a bridge to make contact from the -ve terminal to the body tube?

Ah, good thinking!

Just tried with a paper clip, no joy. Tried with two cells in the main body and also three batteries with the extender in place. Also tried cleaning the threads (they're not very smooth but there was a little bit of grease on them).

When I watch very carefully I do get a very tiny spark, but very very tiny. So I guess this would suggest that maybe it is tripping the protection circuit on the cells before powering up the LED. I guess I'll find out in around an hour once I get back home :)

Sorry to hear that. If you have a DMM maybe you can check the current draw on the tail, on the 20A setting of course. There sometimes happen little shorts around the positive terminal, by a loose solder or bent spring. Also sometimes battery tube can’t make contact to the drivers negative pole. Try reversing the tube or feed the light with a 9v power supply to see if it is the mechanics or the electronics causing this. Some of my p60 hosts could need a few unscrew-screw of the head to let the springs free and make a proper contact to the body.

Sounds like it's the driver or something at the head end that could be creating a dead short. Don't try unprotected cells in the light.

Thanks guys - all great feedback and advice. I'll try later with a DMM to get a better idea of what's wrong. I'll not try unprotected cells until I've been able to verify there's no shorts or anything similar :)

So... I checked with the multimeter and my cells seem fine and the tailcap is working fine, gives me good readings throughout the body and to the head. I see no reason to suspect the threads or anything like that.

There is resistance across the head terminals (driver end) and so it doesn't look like a total short. I've tried with a different set of 2 cells (Ultrafire 2600mAh greens) and some AW/IC 2200mAh cells I had (only had 2 of each unfortunately, so could only do this test with 2 cells).

However, when I shake the head I can hear wobbling, so it seems like the driver board is loose and I suspect that's where the issue is. I'm unsure how to strip the light down any further though, I don't see any obvious way to get at the driver - any hints?

I've unscrewed the plastic end-cap piece, but aren't sure how to get further;

Pictures here;
http://t.co/rSIrcsqD
http://t.co/gXbZwrWm

Soldering here looks pretty hideous, where, if at all, should I apply +ve and -ve in order to test the connections? I'm presuming one of those outer rings should be attached to the body of the light? http://t.co/eKXRjL05

*EDIT* I consistently measure 0 ohms resistance across the outer of the copper rings and the body of the light, so I guess that means that connection is fine too and the problem is the driver board itself.... so how to get to the driver board? Are these things sealed?

Looking at the pic of the back of the head, are you saying you removed that plastic contact base to see the driver and there is bad soldering underneath it? If so, how about a pic of the board exposed? If what you show in the pic is as far as you got with it then use a pair of needle nose pliers with the tips inserted into the two holes and unscrew that nylon disk with the contact in the center. Your driver is under that.

If that disk simply applies pressure to the base of the driver then using the needle nosed pliers, try tightening that white nylon disk. It's possible that it's not pressing against the positive contact of the driver PCB.

Thanks - I removed that piece too, it's in the pic: http://t.co/eKXRjL05

Applying a current direct to the outer ring of the driver (visible in that pic) and to that central spring still give me no light, so I'm suspecting the driver itself is at fault - unsure how to get at it though, I see no obvious way to remove it?