[1900k edition is in!] WTS: 1900k-5800k 5mm LED 95+ CRI

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rngwn
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That 9 LED ones will most likely run unregulated with 3*AAA batteries. I’m not sure if I can recommend those.

Jerommel
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rngwn wrote:
That 9 LED ones will most likely run unregulated with 3*AAA batteries. I’m not sure if I can recommend those.

They all run direct drive form 3x AAA in stock form.
So they need drivers, or at least some 7135 current regulators.
djozz
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I used 12× 3400K rngwn leds to mod a Singfire 812A.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1611602

It is old stock, it seems they have not sold them for a couple of years, there was rust on the spring and even inside some of the 5mm leds was corrosion so their warehouse conditions are not optimal.

Nevertheless the build quality is a few grades up from what I can buy in the local stores for two euro’s:

*the ano seems really nice, not cheap at all

*the switch is press-fit but easy to disassemble (I swapped the black 16mm boot cap for a better quality orange one, soldered the loose spring to the switch-lip and made the press-fit a lot stiffer with a solder blob on the other switch-lip that presses against the housing).

*the head assembly is not press-fit but closes on the inside with an actual screwed-in retaining ring (I made two grooves with a saw in the ring to ease opening and closing, and there was no o-ring at the (plastic) lens so I added a nice orange one to match the boot cap, the rest of the light is o-ringed so now the light is submersible)

Then I swapped the 12 395nm leds for 3400K 95CRI leds and that was that.

With 3 AAA alkalines (one was not even full) I just measured 113 lumen so the leds are properly driven at ~30mA each. Tint out the front in the hotspot: CCT=3170K, duv=-0.0025, CRI=97.3, R9=85, R12=92, Rf=94.3, R9=102.6. The beam is a smooth flood.

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iamlucky13 wrote:
Is that lantern something that is currently available?

Yes, there should be several available on eBay that are similar, but I got mine from Clas Ohlson (swedish hardware store) Link to the lantern.

The frosted glass is from another lantern bought at a local hardware store, one of those flickering flame ones. I didn’t like the color and animation of it so I’ve used it for parts.

Current lights:

Emisar D4V2 SST-20 4000K, D4V2 Ti SST-20 2700K, D4V2 Ti SST-20 4000K, D4V2 Ti XPL-Hi V3 1A, D4SV2 SST-20 3000K Noctigon KR1 OSRAM W2, K9.3 XPL-Hi V3 3A + SST-20 2700K | Fireflies PL47G2 XPL HI V3 3A, PL47G2 SST-20 4000K, E07 219B 4500K Lumintop FW1A SST-20 4000K, Tool AA 2.0 Nitecore LR12 XP-L HD V6 6500K, TUP XP-L HD V6 6500K | Sofirn C01S SST-20 4000K, SP10S LH351D 5000K, IF25/LT1-M SST-20 2700K + 6500K w/3D printed diffuser, BLF SP36 LH351D 5000K, BLF LT1 | ZebraLight SC700d XHP 70.2 5000K Hi-CRI, SC53Fc XP-L2 4000K Convoy C8+ SST-40 6500K Acebeam H30 XHP 70.2 5000K | Manker E14 III LH351D 6500K

LowLumen
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I have modded the 9 LED 3aaa flashlight to add a 7135 regulator. The 7135 + & – pins will straddle the traces on the LED mounting board. remove the center pin and solder a wire from center tab to feed spring. …now isolate the spring where it normally contacts the outer trace on the board. I added insulator then glued it to the board. (My favorite shoe goo for that!)

Jerommel
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djozz wrote:
I used 12× 3400K rngwn leds to mod a Singfire 812A.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1611602

It is old stock, it seems they have not sold them for a couple of years, there was rust on the spring and even inside some of the 5mm leds was corrosion so their warehouse conditions are not optimal.

Nevertheless the build quality is a few grades up from what I can buy in the local stores for two euro’s:

*the ano seems really nice, not cheap at all

*the switch is press-fit but easy to disassemble (I swapped the black 16mm boot cap for a better quality orange one, soldered the loose spring to the switch-lip and made the press-fit a lot stiffer with a solder blob on the other switch-lip that presses against the housing).

*the head assembly is not press-fit but closes on the inside with an actual screwed-in retaining ring (I made two grooves with a saw in the ring to ease opening and closing, and there was no o-ring at the (plastic) lens so I added a nice orange one to match the boot cap, the rest of the light is o-ringed so now the light is submersible)

Then I swapped the 12 395nm leds for 3400K 95CRI leds and that was that.

With 3 AAA alkalines (one was not even full) I just measured 113 lumen so the leds are properly driven at ~30mA each. Tint out the front in the hotspot: CCT=3170K, duv=-0.0025, CRI=97.3, R9=85, R12=92, Rf=94.3, R9=102.6. The beam is a smooth flood.


Nice. Cool

I have one of those 12 LED ones too, and a silver one which is a bit different, but both have screw on heads.
The black one is about 10cm tall.
This means that is is possible to use an unprotected 21700 and a tail-stand-able tail switch, if you superglue the spring directly on the back of a small Omten and use a switch boot without a nub, and epoxy it all in the tail cap. Smile
A single 7135 on the back of the LED board would be enough (29.2 mA per LED).

I’m gonna order one of those super crappy yellow plastic 9 LED ones too, just for fun. Big Smile

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iamlucky13 wrote:
Is that lantern something that is currently available?

Actually, after seeing DBSAR’s collection, I’m thinking of getting an actual kerosene lantern of my own for use around my fire pit, but why not both?

And if anybody knows of an LED candle that isn’t difficult to mod, but will retain its flicker with an LED swap, I’m also interested.

My wife’s current candles all have amber LED’s. One type is easy to mod, but the flicker is built into the LED itself. The other type has actual wax molded around a plastic base and can’t be disassembled without destroying the wax.

I modded a few 2-AA and 3-AA small Hurricane LED lanterns like that with generic WW LEDs, but these 2300K 5mm LEDs are high CRI and much closer to a real flame tint. I also found a bunch of small 2-AA ones at a local dollar store to mod too. (photos and mod topic eventually coming.)

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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DBSAR wrote:
I modded a few 2-AA and 3-AA small Hurricane LED lanterns like that with generic WW LEDs, but these 2300K 5mm LEDs are high CRI and much closer to a real flame tint. I also found a bunch of small 2-AA ones at a local dollar store to mod too. (photos and mod topic eventually coming.)

I’ve searched local and online hardware stores in Norway for 5mm hurricane lanterns, I’ve only found the one I modded that has 2xD batteries. I don’t mind the D batteries since they last a good while, but it would be nice to use some Ni-Mh AA since I’ve got loads of them.

I’ll keep on searching though, would be nice with something smaller and more compact. I’m also scavenging eBay and AliExpress.

Current lights:

Emisar D4V2 SST-20 4000K, D4V2 Ti SST-20 2700K, D4V2 Ti SST-20 4000K, D4V2 Ti XPL-Hi V3 1A, D4SV2 SST-20 3000K Noctigon KR1 OSRAM W2, K9.3 XPL-Hi V3 3A + SST-20 2700K | Fireflies PL47G2 XPL HI V3 3A, PL47G2 SST-20 4000K, E07 219B 4500K Lumintop FW1A SST-20 4000K, Tool AA 2.0 Nitecore LR12 XP-L HD V6 6500K, TUP XP-L HD V6 6500K | Sofirn C01S SST-20 4000K, SP10S LH351D 5000K, IF25/LT1-M SST-20 2700K + 6500K w/3D printed diffuser, BLF SP36 LH351D 5000K, BLF LT1 | ZebraLight SC700d XHP 70.2 5000K Hi-CRI, SC53Fc XP-L2 4000K Convoy C8+ SST-40 6500K Acebeam H30 XHP 70.2 5000K | Manker E14 III LH351D 6500K

DBSAR
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Nismo wrote:
DBSAR wrote:
I modded a few 2-AA and 3-AA small Hurricane LED lanterns like that with generic WW LEDs, but these 2300K 5mm LEDs are high CRI and much closer to a real flame tint. I also found a bunch of small 2-AA ones at a local dollar store to mod too. (photos and mod topic eventually coming.)

I’ve searched local and online hardware stores in Norway for 5mm hurricane lanterns, I’ve only found the one I modded that has 2xD batteries. I don’t mind the D batteries since they last a good while, but it would be nice to use some Ni-Mh AA since I’ve got loads of them.

I’ll keep on searching though, would be nice with something smaller and more compact. I’m also scavenging eBay and AliExpress.

The big issue with using the NiMH AA cells as 2S, is their nominal voltage is two low, ad below the forward voltage of the LEDs. (for NiMH you need to use 3-series with a 47 ohm 1/4 watt resistor to get the correct output. 2AA Alkaline cells have a higher voltage and can run a LED without a driver, (i use a simple 7.5 ohm resistor in series with the LED for running 2 alkaline or ZincCarbon cells.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

iamlucky13
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Is anyone in the US who has received theirs able to post how long they took to arrive?

Mine have been listed as sitting at “SUVARNABHUMI MAIL CENTRE” for almost 3 weeks now.

rngwn
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iamlucky13 wrote:
Is anyone in the US who has received theirs able to post how long they took to arrive?

Mine have been listed as sitting at “SUVARNABHUMI MAIL CENTRE” for almost 3 weeks now.

Now that you mentioned it, there are some people who has already received the package despite it’s being shipped later.

It’s probably time for me to start a formal investigation with the post office.

One thing to note is that Thailand Post usually send the mail to two different U.S. airports; one in New York and another in Los Angeles. As of now, the mail that moves fast are the ones that appears in NY.
There’s a possibility that the LAX is jammed with packages those packages are the ones waiting to be scanned as “Processed Through Facility”.

Nonetheless, I will start launching an investigation.

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Mine was shipped Dec 12 and I still haven’t received it in NY. My last shipment took about 2 weeks as I remember. I’m not too worried about it, as I also think the volume of shipping this time of year may be delaying things a little.
Edit:Just went to the mailbox and they are here! Thanks rngwn!

Please illuminate responsibly
Part time fragmented conciousness technician

UV triple using Sofirn C8F
395nm High Power LED in Sofirn SC31b

Jerommel
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Still haven’t got them here…

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If I’m dealing with lost shipments for that whole 1 Dec batch then it’s going to cost me dearly Tired

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I think they will arrive eventually.
It’s the end of the year, millions of packages are shipped, normally takes 1 to 2 months, we’re at 23 days since i paid you.

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I did receive the 4000K 16-die led last week, which was really quick, so not all packages are on hold, some slip through.

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Jerommel wrote:
Still haven’t got them here…

Same from dec 12 order date. Hopefully it’s just some USPS congestion during the holidays.

iamlucky13
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rngwn wrote:
iamlucky13 wrote:
Is anyone in the US who has received theirs able to post how long they took to arrive?

Mine have been listed as sitting at “SUVARNABHUMI MAIL CENTRE” for almost 3 weeks now.

Now that you mentioned it, there are some people who has already received the package despite it’s being shipped later.

It’s probably time for me to start a formal investigation with the post office.

One thing to note is that Thailand Post usually send the mail to two different U.S. airports; one in New York and another in Los Angeles. As of now, the mail that moves fast are the ones that appears in NY.
There’s a possibility that the LAX is jammed with packages those packages are the ones waiting to be scanned as “Processed Through Facility”.

Nonetheless, I will start launching an investigation.

Thank you for looking into this. LAX is definitely a possibility – I’ve had shipments held up there before. It also seems quite possible Thai post is overwhelmed, as well.

Fortunately, I’ve got time to wait and see if my tracking number starts to see movement. I was going to put make small gifts to nephews with some of these, but fortunately, I’ve still got some Yuji’s to spare.

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It turns out 3 x alkaline button cells produces a lot more current than lithium coin cells.

I found a cheap 5-pack of “Buck Lights” on Amazon that seemed like a good choice for kids because they are momentary only (can’t be accidentally left on), and the cases screw together, so it should be extremely unlikely they’d be able to open the light and risk swallowing the batteries.

I was surprised how bright they are, so I put a multimeter on them and measured 90mA. This is pretty hard overdriven, but in short bursts, they should not overheat, and the voltage sag dropped that by about 10mA in the first 10 seconds alone, which will likely help prevent harm to the emitter.

A new CR2032 with a Yuji produced only 14 mA (which I find a really good level for finding things in my car).

rngwn’s emitters should be even brighter on alkaline button cells than the Yuji’s, including those Mateminco bullet lights

I think the lights I have use LR41 cells, but I didn’t check the dimensions when I had them open.

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Tip:
http://kaidomain.com/S028538-UV1-365nm-1-Mode-Stainless-Steel-UV-Flashli...

I did not make pictures of the mod but this is a pretty nice host for 5mm leds. A small description: the bezel is press-fit, work it out by prying with a sharp knife between bezel and body. Inside you will find a great little convex-convex lens and under it a plastic holder that retains a small circuit board and a 5mm (UV) led.

Replacing that led with your favourite 5mm led is not just a matter of unsoldering/soldering because the stock UV-led has a very narrow emission angle and probably your replacement led needs to sit closer to the lens to prevent light loss and obtain a good beam. But the plastic holder has a rim on the inside that holds the led at a fixed distance from the lens. So that rim needs to be reamed until your led can be slided through the hole towards the lens. Then, outside the flashlight, light your bare replacement led with a led tester and hold the loose lens in front of it at a distance that gives an optimal nice beam, precisely measure that distance. Then bend and solder the led onto the circuit board sticking out so far out of the board that your measured distance is met upon assembling the lens/plasticholder/circuitboard combination.

Pictures tell a thousand words but unfortunately I don’t have any. But it is easy to see what needs happening when you have the flashlight before you. It is an easy mod.

I used a rngwn 2300K led and chose a beam with the die projected by the lens just out of focus, so it is quite throwy compared to the bare 5mm led. It has a tint shift from 2700K in the center to 2100K near the edge (so getting pretty orange there) but because of the great tint and CRI that actually looks rather attractive. The current from the battery is 122mA (so about 40mA through the led after boosting) and the output is 10.5 lumen, which sounds worse than it is because the light is more concentrated than any bare 5mm led.

rngwn
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My post office has taken my case and should start an investigation on the delayed shipment for iamlucky13 soon.

They might mail you an inquiry card asking if you would get the item by the time the card arrives.

buck91
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My emitters showed up just just before Christmas!

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Something is probably up in USPS LA now. Even my packages that lands on NY doesn’t even want to go to LA right now. Facepalm

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rngwn wrote:
My post office has taken my case and should start an investigation on the delayed shipment for iamlucky13 soon.

They might mail you an inquiry card asking if you would get the item by the time the card arrives.

Thank you again for following up on this.

I received the inquiry from the USPS and mailed it back this morning to confirm that I have not received the shipment. It seems a bit odd that this would even be needed, since Thai Post’s own tracking information still shows the package as at Suvarnabhumi Mail Centre, so it’s not like they had any reason to think it had been delivered.

Hopefully this results in either Thai Post locating the package or reimbursing you fully. I will check in again in a couple weeks if nothing seems to have happened.

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Bureaucracy at its finest. Facepalm

I think THP is trying to ask the receiver first before checking their backlog.

EDIT: In the worst case, I will just need to reship all the packages that was sent on Dec 1, if it keep going onto the mid-January without any progress.

Probably without tracking though, since I will be eating the shipping costs for the reshipping. If that happens and you do receive two shipments, then you can consider reimbursing me later.

Since the mails are sent without insurance (which I have calculated the risk v. indemnity of this before), if the mails are really lost then I’m screwed. I hope they would at least try to find the mails before screwing me over.

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(I still haven’t received them yet either… Sad )

Bummer…

Contact me if you have to re-ship.
I may want to order some more.

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Jerommel wrote:
(I still haven’t received them yet either… Sad )

Bummer…

Contact me if you have to re-ship.
I may want to order some more.


I’m waiting on a bucket-load of packages atm, the ones that have tracking are said to have left China. Maybe postnl has a huge pile somewhere that they stopped working on until after the Christmas peak.
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djozz wrote:
Jerommel wrote:
(I still haven’t received them yet either… Sad )

Bummer…

Contact me if you have to re-ship.
I may want to order some more.


I’m waiting on a bucket-load of packages atm, the ones that have tracking are said to have left China. Maybe postnl has a huge pile somewhere that they stopped working on until after the Christmas peak.

Me too.
It wasn’t too smart to order a bunch of stuff in December..
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I will do this in phases. I will first deal with eBay orders (to avoid disputes) and tracked shipments that are seemingly lost after a few weeks from now.

The rest, which are untracked mails will be reshipped at the beginning of next month (if they are not delivered by then).

Of course, the mails in question are the one that was sent on 1 Dec.

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I’m slowly running out of colors Big Smile

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

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