[1900k edition is in!] WTS: 1900k-5800k 5mm LED 95+ CRI

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Unheard
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dk21291 wrote:
Unheard wrote:
You need to unsolder the LED first, dk. It is held back by a plastic retainer.

Thanks! I’ve tried that, and I’ve also tried carefully working and angling the PCB/driver up sideways, then unscrewing the retaining ring and desoldering. I guess my soldering must just suck and I’m doing something to the boards, they seem to die easily.


Maybe I was just lucky with my three lights. I’m holding light and screwdriver with the left hand, soldering iron with the right. Blade of the screwdriver levers the PCB while the iron tip melts the solder.

I imagine that the copper contacts could be ripped of the PCB when levering it without solder being completely melted. I’m using lots of heat for very short period of time instead of trying to keep the iron as cool as possible but needing more time melting the solder. Half a second up to a second contact between tip and joint at most.

But: I’m very far from being an expert in soldering. Just the opposite!

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

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Unheard wrote:
dk21291 wrote:
Unheard wrote:
You need to unsolder the LED first, dk. It is held back by a plastic retainer.

Thanks! I’ve tried that, and I’ve also tried carefully working and angling the PCB/driver up sideways, then unscrewing the retaining ring and desoldering. I guess my soldering must just suck and I’m doing something to the boards, they seem to die easily.


Maybe I was just lucky with my three lights. I’m holding light and screwdriver with the left hand, soldering iron with the right. Blade of the screwdriver levers the PCB while the iron tip melts the solder.

I imagine that the copper contacts could be ripped of the PCB when levering it without solder being completely melted. I’m using lots of heat for very short period of time instead of trying to keep the iron as cool as possible but needing more time melting the solder. Half a second up to a second contact between tip and joint at most.

But: I’m very far from being an expert in soldering. Just the opposite!

Thanks for the tips. Are you working the PCB up little by little each time you use the iron, or are you doing one contact fully up, then the next fully up? Also when you do this method, do you end up with solder blocking the holes for the LED leads? if so how do you handle that?

Thanks for taking the time to explain. Just trying to see where I’m going wrong here, and I haven’t come across many others working on these lights.

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Yes it takes two or three iterations at most per pin. And sometimes the hole is blocked, so when resoldering, I just press the LED pins onto the solder and heat it up to get them through. No magic on my side Wink

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

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dk21291 wrote:
Unheard wrote:

A black one is on its way to become a 5×00K.

Edit: My camera cannot capture the colors right. The LEDs are actually nrgwn’s 2300K and 3400K LEDs

Any tips/tricks for getting the driver out? I’m doing something wrong apparently, and keep ending up with dead drivers. I’ve had a few swaps work, and a few more that didn’t Sad

I did a write up a couple years back when I modded one. This doesn’t necessarily tell much beyond what has been said here, but you might give it a look:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?436640-Sunwayman-R01...(with-pictures)

I clamped the head in a hobby vice while desolding the PCB, then clamped the PCB in a “3rd hand” tool while desoldering the LED.

Good luck.

By the way, a while back, it was possible to order spare Sofirn C01 drivers on request. I don’t know if they are still available, or even if the driver would fit in the R01A, but if you have some dead drivers, perhaps it is possible to replace them.

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iamlucky13 wrote:
dk21291 wrote:
Unheard wrote:

A black one is on its way to become a 5×00K.

Edit: My camera cannot capture the colors right. The LEDs are actually nrgwn’s 2300K and 3400K LEDs

Any tips/tricks for getting the driver out? I’m doing something wrong apparently, and keep ending up with dead drivers. I’ve had a few swaps work, and a few more that didn’t Sad

I did a write up a couple years back when I modded one. This doesn’t necessarily tell much beyond what has been said here, but you might give it a look:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?436640-Sunwayman-R01...(with-pictures)

I clamped the head in a hobby vice while desolding the PCB, then clamped the PCB in a “3rd hand” tool while desoldering the LED.

Good luck.

By the way, a while back, it was possible to order spare Sofirn C01 drivers on request. I don’t know if they are still available, or even if the driver would fit in the R01A, but if you have some dead drivers, perhaps it is possible to replace them.

Actually your write up is what drove me towards the R01A as the host for this swap. I had started with the Nitecore Tube, but like everyone says, that died after about a month. Thanks all again for the info!

Edit: Turns out the Nitecore was fine. Poor solder joint came undone, possibly by sitting on it. Not exactly a fault of the light.

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dk21291 wrote:
I had started with the Nitecore Tube, but like everyone says, that died after about a month.

The whole light or just the LED? I know Tubes deliver too much current in high mode to reach thousands of hours of lifetime (or even hundreds), but hope they will last for a long time in low mode. I have some of them with nrgwn’s LEDs.

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

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Unheard wrote:
dk21291 wrote:
I had started with the Nitecore Tube, but like everyone says, that died after about a month.
The whole light or just the LED? I know Tubes deliver too much current in high mode to reach thousands of hours of lifetime (or even hundreds), but hope they will last for a long time in low mode. I have some of them with nrgwn’s LEDs.

I used it mostly on low mode, only seldomly going into high levels. I still have it I think, may try a different LED. Either way, maybe I just got a dud, and will try again. Thanks!

Edit: Poor solder joint came undone, possibly by sitting on it. Not exactly a fault of the light.

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I’ve got a few more items for post-lockdown. I have sent a few more stuffs for Djozz for reviewing:

4000k 5mm – I re-ordered this because the manufacturer accidentally sent out 5000k instead of 4000k.
4000k 3mm
3200k 3mm

3200k 5mm – Claimed to be able to take 150ma without issues, but I will wait for the result.

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dk21291 wrote:
Unheard wrote:
dk21291 wrote:
I had started with the Nitecore Tube, but like everyone says, that died after about a month.
The whole light or just the LED? I know Tubes deliver too much current in high mode to reach thousands of hours of lifetime (or even hundreds), but hope they will last for a long time in low mode. I have some of them with nrgwn’s LEDs.

I used it mostly on low mode, only seldomly going into high levels. I still have it I think, may try a different LED. Either way, maybe I just got a dud, and will try again. Thanks!

So I felt like I needed to revisit this comment. Got a Nitecore Tube UV cause I had gift card money that needed spending. Charge it up, used it a few times, and kept it in my pocket for the day. Within the first 2 days the light had died. Curious to see what the issue was I opened it up and discovered one of the LED leads was making poor contact. Tapped it with a soldering iron and it was good as new. Dug up my Rngwn emitter modded tube cause it seemed like more than coincidence another would break the same way, and sure enough, the lead wasn’t making good contact. I guess I was carrying these in my back pocket, and must has squished them with my ass or something lol. Either way they both work now and I felt retracting my previous comment.

Tube UV also included a little photon-freedom micro light knockoff. Made for the worlds easiest emitter swap with these LEDs!

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rngwn wrote:
3200k 5mm – Claimed to be able to take 150ma without issues, but I will wait for the result.

Take a pack if true. Nice candidate for my remaining unmodified Tubes as they have a pad for the large cathod iirc.
dk21291 wrote:
Either way they both work now and I felt retracting my previous comment.

Good to hear. Like those lights very much.

There was talk about missing LVP. Not sure if I should put one of them at stake and test it.

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

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Good news,

Thailandpost has opened up the service for several more countries. You can check where you live here.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OGkBLRXkgaOuA-x2N-I2fLe0faBrUXeu/view

The caveat here is that the shipping cost has been raised for some countries. For example, U.S. and Canada’s shipping cost is now at $9 $10, as should have been $4.7.

Unheard
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2300K in the Osram Nightlux:

Shameless ad: Very sensitive to movement and light, on-time 10 or 60 seconds. Really good night light. Unfortunately the innermost compartement containing the LED PCB is glued and takes some patience to open. Everything else is screwed.

Found this product under other brand names.

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Unheard wrote:
2300K in the Osram Nightlux:

Shameless ad: Very sensitive to movement and light, on-time 10 or 60 seconds. Really good night light. Unfortunately the innermost compartement containing the LED PCB is glued and takes some patience to open. Everything else is screwed.

Found this product under other brand names.

This one looks neat, I need to get me some of these.

Current lights:

Emisar D4V2 SST-20 4000K, D4V2 Ti SST-20 2700K, D4V2 Ti SST-20 4000K, D4V2 Ti XPL-Hi V3 1A, D4SV2 SST-20 3000K Noctigon KR1 OSRAM W2, K9.3 XPL-Hi V3 3A + SST-20 2700K | Fireflies PL47G2 XPL HI V3 3A, PL47G2 SST-20 4000K, E07 219B 4500K Lumintop FW1A SST-20 4000K, Tool AA 2.0 Nitecore LR12 XP-L HD V6 6500K, TUP XP-L HD V6 6500K | Sofirn C01S SST-20 4000K, SP10S LH351D 5000K, IF25/LT1-M SST-20 2700K + 6500K w/3D printed diffuser, BLF SP36 LH351D 5000K, BLF LT1 | ZebraLight SC700d XHP 70.2 5000K Hi-CRI, SC53Fc XP-L2 4000K Convoy C8+ SST-40 6500K Acebeam H30 XHP 70.2 5000K | Manker E14 III LH351D 6500K

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Unheard wrote:
2300K in the Osram Nightlux:

Shameless ad: Very sensitive to movement and light, on-time 10 or 60 seconds. Really good night light. Unfortunately the innermost compartement containing the LED PCB is glued and takes some patience to open. Everything else is screwed.

Found this product under other brand names.

Osram = Sylvania in the US.
Product name is more generic, “LED Motion Sensor Light”

I like the idea and especially the mod, but I hate the 3xAAA format. (I know this is a cheap homeowner/consumer product so 3xAAA is the “right” design choice for such a product, but I just fundamentally don’t like it, lol.)

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Works with Eneloops, although with greatly reduced runtime.

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Or perhaps add some tiny buck/boost converter in it with ni-mh.

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rngwn wrote:
Or perhaps add some tiny buck/boost converter in it with ni-mh.

It is one PCB including LEDs. A PCB you stare at for some seconds and copper traces will come loose. Well designed in concept and firmware, but really s***** electronics. Had to rewire this and that Facepalm

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Oh yeah the infamous FR1 boards. I love it when the copper trace blew open and spew all the hot flux and solder over my face every time the iron touches it. Luckily I’m wearing glasses so it didn’t get into my eyes.

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Unheard wrote:
It is one PCB including LEDs. A PCB you stare at for some seconds and copper traces will come loose. Well designed in concept and firmware, but really s***** electronics. Had to rewire this and that Facepalm

Haha, well from a design engineer perspective, that sounds like it was designed just about perfect for the “cheap as possible, basically disposable” intent of this light! Obviously we at BLF want different, but we aren’t the intended market for this light. :SHRUG:

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For the sake of identifying my LEDs I now add the SKU numbers (check on the OP).

Also Introducing RWN05-32K-C-EX. A love child hybrid between Yuji's 3200k and Nichia GS.

You get some of the High CRI and tint from Yuji's, and you get some of the power handling from Nichia GS (though not quite as good).

 

Here's Djozz's test compared with my standard 3400k R9080 and Nichia GS 4000k Rnn.

 

This one is much more expensive than the other 5mm LEDs. The price will be $9.5/20pcs (or $10.0 incl. handling fees).

 

The other SKU intruduced is RWN05-45K-B, the 2nd batch from the manufacturer whom I asked for 4000k emitter with 4500k CCT. The first batch ended up 5000k. This batch is closer to 4000k I asked, but ended up at 4500k instead, as tested by Djozz. The price will be $8.0 incl. handling fees.

 

CRI test pics are coming later.

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Pics for RWN05-32K-C-EX (images taken by Djozz)

 

 

 


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( ^ tint measurements were in the hotspot with led at 20mA)

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Wow, those look nice! Are there any special requirements for running this 5mm LED at the higher end of its permissible amperage range?

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To run (any LEDs on the menu) at high current, it’s preferable to:

  • Drive the LED in constant-current mode: As the LED heats up, it will take more current in a feedback loop until it either
    a) finds a thermal equilibrium or
    b) enters the thermal runaway and die.
    Constant current driver will ensure that the current will stay at a managable level, or at least keep the deterioration rate at the constant level (as opposed to rapidly)
  • You may need to enhance the heat dissipation on the cathode lead: The only way thru-hole LEDs can realistically dissipate heat is by thermal conduction through the cathode lead, where it connects to the base that the die is attached to. Based on my educated guesses, you could try:
    a) If the board has large ground plane where LEDs are to be soldered on, you should shorten the legs as much as possible to minimize the thermal resistance to the ground plane.
    b) If the board doesn’t have the ground plane, you may need to keep the legs as long as possible to maximize the surface area instead.
    c) Put the airflow on the back of the board to cool the ground plane.
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Well, well... 

I guess i need another package. Let's try those bada55 newcomers.

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

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RWN05-45K-B (4500k 5mm) Tests by Djozz (20 mA)

 

 

 

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The specs on both of those new emitters look great, especially that higher powered 3200k! Although the 3400K has been reported to perform well in the Nitecore Tube, this model should be slightly brighter and provide more assurance of a long life.

I wonder if Nitecore would be open to buying some to do a special edition Tube CRI, or Klarus on the similar Mi2…

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Payment sent for 3200!

Thx.

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

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The US store Costco currently has 8-packs of “Life Gear” brand colored LED glow sticks for something like $20. They’re a bit larger than it seems like they need to be, but otherwise seem like a good value.

They are a bit unusual in that they have a flashlight on the opposite end of the glow stick. As expected, it’s a probably 6500+ K cool white, so I immediately started replacing them with warmer, high CRI LED’s. My kids are definitely enjoying them.

Here’s three of them with the flashlight end replaced with a rngwn 2300K, an rngwn 3400K, and a Yuji 5600K. There is a cheap reflector around the LED that causes a slight lopsided hotspot, but overall, the replacement LED’s are a huge improvement.

It took me a few minutes to figure out how to get them open. A screw locks the diffuser in place, so children won’t accidentally access the button cell batteries. The lens on the flashlight end seems to be glued in place, but it turns out a solid tap of the head against a hard surface will cause the entire light assembly to drop out the other end:

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rngwn wrote:

RWN05-45K-B (4500k 5mm) Tests by Djozz (20 mA)


 


 


 


Blue spikes are high

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