do you have the problem only with the sbt90 or with the other versions too?
Neal can be reached most time by Facebook
Martin - not sure but doubt anyone here has other models - I wouldn't buy any other model, it's the SBT90.2 that makes this light. I feel pretty much all tail power switch lights are obsolete with limited UI capability.
Most likely they upgraded the switch to one that can handle the higher amps of the SBT90.2 and didn't make the proper fine adjustments to handle the size difference.
Also turbo never comes on from the off position. The only luck I get is when I turn it on first then do double half press without the actual clicks .
Annoying as hell
Does turbo activate Every time when you do Two half presses and when the light is on?
I’ve had my light for two weeks now, and my Golisi arrived last night. I cant tell much difference if any between the GA18650 and the Golisi, but I’ve not been able to run them side by side, only a minute apart after switching batteries…. so it’s really hard to discern with the delay and trying to recall exact brightness. My second light hasn’t shipped yet to my knowledge. Once I get it, I can run both battery configurations side by side to have a better idea of any differences.
I don’t believe my light has a switch issue as you all are discussing… but i kind of glanced / skimmed the comments so maybe I missed something.
The button is like a Nitecore MH20/GT with the half press vs full click. The full click is extremely responsive / audible. In other words, you KNOW when you pressed it. I haven’t looked at the UI to see if mine works as depicted, as far as my experience goes, it has 4 modes and a single half press rotates through them. Low, medium, high, turbo, repeat.
It seems I can go from low to turbo with a double half press, just like the Nitecore MH20. I thought it was supposed to be this way?
Edit: just went on NealsGadgets website and saw that it’s M, L, M, H, with double click to turbo… now I’m second guessing myself hahaha I’ll play with it when I get home tonight, don’t have the light on me for now.
Also turbo never comes on from the off position. The only luck I get is when I turn it on first then do double half press without the actual clicks .
Annoying as hell
Does turbo activate Every time when you do Two half presses and when the light is on?
,Thanks
Not every time. And from lowest level seems to activate more often but this I’m not sure of. It’s almost like you need to be a surgeon to know exactly how much force to apply for the half presses from on to get the turbo. No not every time, but I think alsways when the light is on. I will experiment more if I can turn it on from off but I don’t think so. Actually the strobe is also not working so well but it works better than turbo. It’s easier to get stroblenwith the triple click then turbo. And sometimes you think you are gonna get strobe and suddenly turbo comes on. Also touch to figure this all out as sometimes hard to discern turbo from the high mode when you compare to the lowest modes
Also turbo never comes on from the off position. The only luck I get is when I turn it on first then do double half press without the actual clicks .
Annoying as hell
Does turbo activate Every time when you do Two half presses and when the light is on?
,Thanks
Not every time. And from lowest level seems to activate more often but this I’m not sure of. It’s almost like you need to be a surgeon to know exactly how much force to apply for the half presses from on to get the turbo. No not every time, but I think alsways when the light is on. I will experiment more if I can turn it on from off but I don’t think so. Actually the strobe is also not working so well but it works better than turbo. It’s easier to get stroblenwith the triple click then turbo. And sometimes you think you are gonna get strobe and suddenly turbo comes on. Also touch to figure this all out as sometimes hard to discern turbo from the high mode when you compare to the lowest modes
Try using a thick piece of wire from battery (-) to the flashlight body to go thru the modes, should rule out the switch and isolate the problem, tail cap or driver..
I’ve had my light for two weeks now, and my Golisi arrived last night. I cant tell much difference if any between the GA18650 and the Golisi, but I’ve not been able to run them side by side, only a minute apart after switching batteries…. so it’s really hard to discern with the delay and trying to recall exact brightness. My second light hasn’t shipped yet to my knowledge. Once I get it, I can run both battery configurations side by side to have a better idea of any differences.
I don’t believe my light has a switch issue as you all are discussing… but i kind of glanced / skimmed the comments so maybe I missed something.
The button is like a Nitecore MH20/GT with the half press vs full click. The full click is extremely responsive / audible. In other words, you KNOW when you pressed it. I haven’t looked at the UI to see if mine works as depicted, as far as my experience goes, it has 4 modes and a single half press rotates through them. Low, medium, high, turbo, repeat.
It seems I can go from low to turbo with a double half press, just like the Nitecore MH20. I thought it was supposed to be this way?
Edit: just went on NealsGadgets website and saw that it’s M, L, M, H, with double click to turbo… now I’m second guessing myself hahaha I’ll play with it when I get home tonight, don’t have the light on me for now.
Xenovora
Yes the 4 modes are done by either doing half presses of the buttton or by sound a series of 2 full clicks of the button. They go progressively low – medium 1 a medium 2 ( brighter) – high. So when I’m in the lowest mode and I try to double – half- press to get the turbo It’s hard to tell I am now in turbo or in medium mode because I half presses twice.
Right now I’m trying and can’t get in turbo at all, and the button presses are pretty hard so your fingers get tired of trying.
I might be going crazy or the battery may be going down but I’m beginning to suspect that the high mode is the same as turbo mode, which would be disappointing but more understandable, will replace the batteries and do more testing with the lux meter tonight
I’ve had my light for two weeks now, and my Golisi arrived last night. I cant tell much difference if any between the GA18650 and the Golisi, but I’ve not been able to run them side by side, only a minute apart after switching batteries…. so it’s really hard to discern with the delay and trying to recall exact brightness. My second light hasn’t shipped yet to my knowledge. Once I get it, I can run both battery configurations side by side to have a better idea of any differences.
Xenovora
It is very unlikely you will notice the difference by eye, especially when your turning it on/off and changing batteries. If the lights are measured, then you will see the difference on paper.
I could not notice the difference b/w Vapcell 5500 and Golisi either in another light with 4000L output.If the difference is around 1000L like my other light, you may notice using Two lights IF you can get them on Turbo!
It is just a Flashaholics tendency to want MORE[The disease of more!],,,even if the eye can not pick it up.
To whom it has not yet been sent, it is necessary to write so that they send the flashlight with the corrected switch, otherwise it is necessary to refuse the purchase and return the money for the flashlight. Again, we probably need to wait 1 month until they fix it ..
—
"... God is light, and in him is no darkness at all..." 1 John 1:5 (KJV)
Ok so after some more trying belownis the best way to try to access the turbo.
First you do a full click to access the lowest mode or whatever the last memorized mode it was in
Then you do 2 half pushes ( no clicks) to access turbo. I think the trick is they have to be VERY fast – right next to each other. Older people will have issues doing such fast half-pushes one after the other . In other words a super fast double click ( double push)without the actual click.
I believe this only works from the on position. ( when the light is already on)
Ok so after some more trying belownis the best way to try to access the turbo.
First you do a full click to access the lowest mode or whatever the last memorized mode it was in
Then you do 2 half pushes ( no clicks) to access turbo. I think the trick is they have to be VERY fast – right next to each other. Older people will have issues doing such fast half-pushes one after the other . In other words a super fast double click ( double push)without the actual click.
I believe this only works from the on position. ( when the light is already on)
Yes you are spot on. This is how my sample is. There is nothing wrong with my switches. I have one sbt 90, XHP50.2, and flat white versions of this light. I have a total of 5 pieces of this light. The double half press will get you to turbo every time. It’s just hard to tell with our eyes. But I have a light meter, so I can confirm. But what I can tell you guys is the driver is CRAP. The memory is all whacked out. Sometimes it will remember the last mode, other times, it will go to next mode or previous mode. This is irritating. This defect goes for 5 samples. I went ahead and changed out the driver to the flat whites to make it single mode only. Sky Lumen did this mod. Dunno what he did or what driver he used.
I have no problem to activate turbo, however I agree that it can be hard when, for example, hands are cold. When the switch is released, there’s small pause before the light comes on. If you manage to half click in that time window, you’re in turbo mode.
I generally prefer lights without memory (starting on lowest mode) anyways. Is it at all possible to just disable the memory, perhaps at a hardware level?
Spaced the battery tube out with 2 copper sealing rings, cleaned all contacts with NO-OX, and on a 30T off the charger I got just over 25amps at the hit and 4710lms at turn on and dropping steadily… the tail cap and driver springs have some resistance they get a little warm around 30 seconds so does the light. The driver is a 3 FET with R010 resistor DD driver and the FET’s are scratched out but they look to be the SIR 404/800/Infineon style/type of FET.
Maybe try some Blue Gen 3 springs or just go for the 18awg bypass’s on the springs when I get the chance maybe this weekend…
Spaced the battery tube out with 2 copper sealing rings, cleaned all contacts with NO-OX, and on a 30T off the charger I got just over 25amps at the hit and 4710lms at turn on and dropping steadily… the tail cap and driver springs have some resistance they get a little warm around 30 seconds so does the light. The driver is a 3 FET with R010 resistor DD driver and the FET’s are scratched out but they look to be the SIR 404/800/Infineon style/type of FET.
Maybe try some Blue Gen 3 springs or just go for the 18awg bypass’s on the springs when I get the chance maybe this weekend…
Thanks for the info.
How does the UI/Tail switch work for you in regards to activating Turbo?
Spaced the battery tube out with 2 copper sealing rings, cleaned all contacts with NO-OX, and on a 30T off the charger I got just over 25amps at the hit and 4710lms at turn on and dropping steadily… the tail cap and driver springs have some resistance they get a little warm around 30 seconds so does the light. The driver is a 3 FET with R010 resistor DD driver and the FET’s are scratched out but they look to be the SIR 404/800/Infineon style/type of FET.
Maybe try some Blue Gen 3 springs or just go for the 18awg bypass’s on the springs when I get the chance maybe this weekend…
I ordered five 24×30×2mm rings. Would I need to use two or should one be fine?
Spaced the battery tube out with 2 copper sealing rings, cleaned all contacts with NO-OX, and on a 30T off the charger I got just over 25amps at the hit and 4710lms at turn on and dropping steadily… the tail cap and driver springs have some resistance they get a little warm around 30 seconds so does the light. The driver is a 3 FET with R010 resistor DD driver and the FET’s are scratched out but they look to be the SIR 404/800/Infineon style/type of FET.
Maybe try some Blue Gen 3 springs or just go for the 18awg bypass’s on the springs when I get the chance maybe this weekend…
Thanks for the info.
How does the UI/Tail switch work for you in regards to activating Turbo?
Spaced the battery tube out with 2 copper sealing rings, cleaned all contacts with NO-OX, and on a 30T off the charger I got just over 25amps at the hit and 4710lms at turn on and dropping steadily… the tail cap and driver springs have some resistance they get a little warm around 30 seconds so does the light. The driver is a 3 FET with R010 resistor DD driver and the FET’s are scratched out but they look to be the SIR 404/800/Infineon style/type of FET.
Maybe try some Blue Gen 3 springs or just go for the 18awg bypass’s on the springs when I get the chance maybe this weekend…
I ordered five 24×30×2mm rings. Would I need to use two or should one be fine?
I used 2 one on the head end and tail cap… the springs are very stiff and they stack, didn’t want to dent the 30T…
Pic of the driver..
The switch is a large OMTEN and it works well on this example … no misfire’s so far..
I swapped the springs out with Blue Swords gen II springs and went straight to the 18awg bypass’s on both springs…
Just over 5000lms at turn on (30T 4.21v)
4315lms at 30 seconds and it is getting very very warm
then checked Turbo again … 4590lms at turn on battery was pulled and checked at 4.071v
it’s a very hungry LED…
Regarding the switch. Does the UI work the way it is listed on Neales website:
for SBT90.2:
Moon-Low-Medium-High
double clicks Turbo ,triple clicks strobe.
OR
Do you have to improvise like others have said, that is Turn it ON and then Two half presses for turbo. Supposedly can not be activated from the OFF position.
Here is what I measured with the Baby Blue LiitoKala (didn’t measure the voltage at the time) and I haven’t been really following this thread as of late.. this is what I got..
1. 37lm
2. 505lm
3. 948lm
4. 1680lm
5. Dbl Tap – Turbo … (while in Turbo) Dbl Tap – Strobe
. It has memory so in lowest level, I double tap – Turbo – off, and repeated this Low- double tap Turbo off quite a few times and it never failed. I cycled thru the 4 modes many times, no hiccups. Got the light screaming hot, and repeated the above thinking maybe heat might make it wonky… never failed?
Here is what I measured with the Baby Blue LiitoKala (didn’t measure the voltage at the time) and I haven’t been really following this thread as of late.. this is what I got..
1. 37lm
2. 505lm
3. 948lm
4. 1680lm
5. Dbl Tap – Turbo … (while in Turbo) Dbl Tap – Strobe
. It has memory so in lowest level, I double tap – Turbo – off, and repeated this Low- double tap Turbo off quite a few times and it never failed. I cycled thru the 4 modes many times, no hiccups. Got the light screaming hot, and repeated the above thinking maybe heat might make it wonky… never failed?
Can you try turning it off on turbo and see if it turns back on in turbo? When you do this, please check with your lumen tube, because high mode looks very similar to turbo mode. Can you do this 5 or more times
To be sure. All 5 of my samples have wonky memory. It will probably turn on in turbo mode three out of ten times.
OR Do you have to improvise like others have said, that is Turn it ON and then Two half presses for turbo. Supposedly can not be activated from the OFF position. ,Thanks
How is that improvising? That's how I'd expect a reverse clicky to work. Either the driver memorizes turbo (to be determined I suppose? might be wonky) so you can access it from off once memorized OR, if it doesn't, of course you'll have to switch it on (full click) before telling it to go into turbo (double half-press/"tap"). A reverse clicky opens the circuit no matter if you fully click it or just half-press, to the driver it looks the same (it just loses power). It's just faster to half-press, hence probably many people have issues accessing turbo mode cause they're either doing full-presses ("clicks") or they're just not fast enough doing double taps - at least to me it sounds that way from the last few people reporting.
Here is what I measured with the Baby Blue LiitoKala (didn’t measure the voltage at the time) and I haven’t been really following this thread as of late.. this is what I got..
1. 37lm
2. 505lm
3. 948lm
4. 1680lm
5. Dbl Tap – Turbo … (while in Turbo) Dbl Tap – Strobe
. It has memory so in lowest level, I double tap – Turbo – off, and repeated this Low- double tap Turbo off quite a few times and it never failed. I cycled thru the 4 modes many times, no hiccups. Got the light screaming hot, and repeated the above thinking maybe heat might make it wonky… never failed?
Can you try turning it off on turbo and see if it turns back on in turbo? When you do this, please check with your lumen tube, because high mode looks very similar to turbo mode. Can you do this 5 or more times
To be sure. All 5 of my samples have wonky memory. It will probably turn on in turbo mode three out of ten times.
I have not had it happen in the low mode, but now that I’m trying it from the other 3 modes yes I had it memorize Turbo a few times last night…seen some other weird stuff also…
. Like this.. turn on in each mode, dbl tap Turbo, single tap out, I get this…
. Level 1 turn on 33lm, dbl tap Turbo, single tap out of Turbo, 50lm, shut off, turn on 33lm.
. Level 2 470lm Turbo, single out 88lm, shut off turn on 468lm
. Level 3 888lm Turbo, single out 167lm, shut off turn on, 903lm
. Level 4 1600lm, Turbo, single out 328lm shut off turn on, 1606lm
Martin - not sure but doubt anyone here has other models - I wouldn't buy any other model, it's the SBT90.2 that makes this light. I feel pretty much all tail power switch lights are obsolete with limited UI capability.
Most likely they upgraded the switch to one that can handle the higher amps of the SBT90.2 and didn't make the proper fine adjustments to handle the size difference.
Does turbo activate Every time when you do Two half presses and when the light is on?
,Thanks
You can't hide me from me.
I’ve had my light for two weeks now, and my Golisi arrived last night. I cant tell much difference if any between the GA18650 and the Golisi, but I’ve not been able to run them side by side, only a minute apart after switching batteries…. so it’s really hard to discern with the delay and trying to recall exact brightness. My second light hasn’t shipped yet to my knowledge. Once I get it, I can run both battery configurations side by side to have a better idea of any differences.
I don’t believe my light has a switch issue as you all are discussing… but i kind of glanced / skimmed the comments so maybe I missed something.
The button is like a Nitecore MH20/GT with the half press vs full click. The full click is extremely responsive / audible. In other words, you KNOW when you pressed it. I haven’t looked at the UI to see if mine works as depicted, as far as my experience goes, it has 4 modes and a single half press rotates through them. Low, medium, high, turbo, repeat.
It seems I can go from low to turbo with a double half press, just like the Nitecore MH20. I thought it was supposed to be this way?
Edit: just went on NealsGadgets website and saw that it’s M, L, M, H, with double click to turbo… now I’m second guessing myself hahaha I’ll play with it when I get home tonight, don’t have the light on me for now.
Xenovora
Not every time. And from lowest level seems to activate more often but this I’m not sure of. It’s almost like you need to be a surgeon to know exactly how much force to apply for the half presses from on to get the turbo. No not every time, but I think alsways when the light is on. I will experiment more if I can turn it on from off but I don’t think so. Actually the strobe is also not working so well but it works better than turbo. It’s easier to get stroblenwith the triple click then turbo. And sometimes you think you are gonna get strobe and suddenly turbo comes on. Also touch to figure this all out as sometimes hard to discern turbo from the high mode when you compare to the lowest modes
Try using a thick piece of wire from battery (-) to the flashlight body to go thru the modes, should rule out the switch and isolate the problem, tail cap or driver..
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Yes the 4 modes are done by either doing half presses of the buttton or by sound a series of 2 full clicks of the button. They go progressively low – medium 1 a medium 2 ( brighter) – high. So when I’m in the lowest mode and I try to double – half- press to get the turbo It’s hard to tell I am now in turbo or in medium mode because I half presses twice.
Right now I’m trying and can’t get in turbo at all, and the button presses are pretty hard so your fingers get tired of trying.
I might be going crazy or the battery may be going down but I’m beginning to suspect that the high mode is the same as turbo mode, which would be disappointing but more understandable, will replace the batteries and do more testing with the lux meter tonight
It is very unlikely you will notice the difference by eye, especially when your turning it on/off and changing batteries. If the lights are measured, then you will see the difference on paper.
I could not notice the difference b/w Vapcell 5500 and Golisi either in another light with 4000L output.If the difference is around 1000L like my other light, you may notice using Two lights IF you can get them on Turbo!
It is just a Flashaholics tendency to want MORE[The disease of more!],,,even if the eye can not pick it up.
You can't hide me from me.
An e-switch solves all these power switch problems so easily
. For me, this stock driver has to go... Oh boy.
To whom it has not yet been sent, it is necessary to write so that they send the flashlight with the corrected switch, otherwise it is necessary to refuse the purchase and return the money for the flashlight. Again, we probably need to wait 1 month until they fix it ..
"... God is light, and in him is no darkness at all..." 1 John 1:5 (KJV)
Ok so after some more trying belownis the best way to try to access the turbo.
First you do a full click to access the lowest mode or whatever the last memorized mode it was in
Then you do 2 half pushes ( no clicks) to access turbo. I think the trick is they have to be VERY fast – right next to each other. Older people will have issues doing such fast half-pushes one after the other . In other words a super fast double click ( double push)without the actual click.
I believe this only works from the on position. ( when the light is already on)
Yes you are spot on. This is how my sample is. There is nothing wrong with my switches. I have one sbt 90, XHP50.2, and flat white versions of this light. I have a total of 5 pieces of this light. The double half press will get you to turbo every time. It’s just hard to tell with our eyes. But I have a light meter, so I can confirm. But what I can tell you guys is the driver is CRAP. The memory is all whacked out. Sometimes it will remember the last mode, other times, it will go to next mode or previous mode. This is irritating. This defect goes for 5 samples. I went ahead and changed out the driver to the flat whites to make it single mode only. Sky Lumen did this mod. Dunno what he did or what driver he used.
I have no problem to activate turbo, however I agree that it can be hard when, for example, hands are cold. When the switch is released, there’s small pause before the light comes on. If you manage to half click in that time window, you’re in turbo mode.
I generally prefer lights without memory (starting on lowest mode) anyways. Is it at all possible to just disable the memory, perhaps at a hardware level?
Got mine today…
Spaced the battery tube out with 2 copper sealing rings, cleaned all contacts with NO-OX, and on a 30T off the charger I got just over 25amps at the hit and 4710lms at turn on and dropping steadily… the tail cap and driver springs have some resistance they get a little warm around 30 seconds so does the light. The driver is a 3 FET with R010 resistor DD driver and the FET’s are scratched out but they look to be the SIR 404/800/Infineon style/type of FET.
Maybe try some Blue Gen 3 springs or just go for the 18awg bypass’s on the springs when I get the chance maybe this weekend…
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Thanks for the info.
How does the UI/Tail switch work for you in regards to activating Turbo?
You can't hide me from me.
I ordered five 24×30×2mm rings. Would I need to use two or should one be fine?
Mine just shipped now, with some FW3A accessories!
Ordered Oct 23rd. Last DHL order from Neal took 11 days for shipping, so by Dec 1st or so.
I’m still waiting until now. Neal said that the LED is still out of stock.
I have to look into further…. tonight….
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
I used 2 one on the head end and tail cap… the springs are very stiff and they stack, didn’t want to dent the 30T…
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
A bit of an update…
Pic of the driver..KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Thanks for sharing the info. Did you wait for it to cool before the second test?
@KB
Thanks for the tests,
Regarding the switch. Does the UI work the way it is listed on Neales website:
for SBT90.2:
Moon-Low-Medium-High
double clicks Turbo ,triple clicks strobe. ORDo you have to improvise like others have said, that is Turn it ON and then Two half presses for turbo. Supposedly can not be activated from the OFF position.
,Thanks
You can't hide me from me.
Here is what I measured with the Baby Blue LiitoKala (didn’t measure the voltage at the time) and I haven’t been really following this thread as of late.. this is what I got..
1. 37lm
2. 505lm
3. 948lm
4. 1680lm
5. Dbl Tap – Turbo … (while in Turbo) Dbl Tap – Strobe
. It has memory so in lowest level, I double tap – Turbo – off, and repeated this Low- double tap
Turbooff quite a few times and it never failed. I cycled thru the 4 modes many times, no hiccups. Got the light screaming hot, and repeated the above thinking maybe heat might make it wonky… never failed?KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
The inside’s…
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
To be sure. All 5 of my samples have wonky memory. It will probably turn on in turbo mode three out of ten times.
I ordered mine on Oct 25. Should I continue waiting? I haven’t received any shipping info
I love my wife’s toy poodle
How is that improvising? That's how I'd expect a reverse clicky to work. Either the driver memorizes turbo (to be determined I suppose? might be wonky) so you can access it from off once memorized OR, if it doesn't, of course you'll have to switch it on (full click) before telling it to go into turbo (double half-press/"tap"). A reverse clicky opens the circuit no matter if you fully click it or just half-press, to the driver it looks the same (it just loses power). It's just faster to half-press, hence probably many people have issues accessing turbo mode cause they're either doing full-presses ("clicks") or they're just not fast enough doing double taps - at least to me it sounds that way from the last few people reporting.
I have not had it happen in the low mode, but now that I’m trying it from the other 3 modes yes I had it memorize Turbo a few times last night…seen some other weird stuff also…
. Like this.. turn on in each mode, dbl tap Turbo, single tap out, I get this…
. Level 1 turn on 33lm, dbl tap Turbo, single tap out of Turbo, 50lm, shut off, turn on 33lm.
. Level 2 470lm Turbo, single out 88lm, shut off turn on 468lm
. Level 3 888lm Turbo, single out 167lm, shut off turn on, 903lm
. Level 4 1600lm, Turbo, single out 328lm shut off turn on, 1606lm
. I’m seeing some of the wonky-ness now..
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Guess I’m late to the party but Would sure like to be included here if possible, looks awesome!
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