“I see all their reviews are 5 stars.” — Whenever I submitted a negative review to Banggood, as I did about a seriously-defective Astrolux MF01S they shipped me, Banggood refused to post the review. All the reviews Banggood shows on the MF01S are positive yet I’m certainly not the only person who received a defective MF01S.
Yeah, might be biased.
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Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
I have built a light box and measuring lumen output with a lux meter in the box. Ceiling bounce would favor throwers tremendously. The contacts appeared clean. I will try to measure amp draws
Ceiling bounce is fine when you are comparing batteries or mods. It’s the same flashlight so the same beam angle. It’s not so great when you start comparing different models of lights. For battery tests it’s okay.
A light box is better and should be consistent enough to test differences in batteries. I would only test fully charged cells. FET lights are known for their inconsistent output, but if you did several tests, that should rule out contact issues in the battery tube and springs. The only variable is the battery and assuming they are the same length, to eliminate differences in the compressed spring height, it should be a pretty accurate test.
Make a note that heat can be a factor. A room temperature light can be brighter than one that’s been heated up. Maybe test the first battery for 10 to 15 seconds so the output has a chance to stabilize a little. Allow it to cool a bit before testing the second battery for the same duration.
If there is a decently large difference in the output then I think it has to be the battery.
Using a clamp meter to measure amp draws is a bit simpler. It eliminates the heat related output differences you get from the led.
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Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Can anyone tell me – when you are using the smooth ramping mode – can you set it at about 800 lumen and turn off. Will I be able to access moonlight, 800 lm and Turbo? I use these 3 levels a lot. Lights using NarsilM or Anduril lose their programmed level when you access moonlight which is a bummer.
On the V2 I can access all 3 levels any time I want which is nice.
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Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Can anyone tell me – when you are using the smooth ramping mode – can you set it at about 800 lumen and turn off. Will I be able to access moonlight, 800 lm and Turbo? I use these 3 levels a lot. Lights using NarsilM or Anduril lose their programmed level when you access moonlight which is a bummer.
On the V2 I can access all 3 levels any time I want which is nice.
Yes, but you can’t go from moonlight (long press) to the programmed/ramped 800 lumen mode (short press), as far as I know. Turbo is double press.
From moonlight, if you start ramping that will become your new programmed mode. If you turn off from moonlight and then turn on, your previously programmed (800 lumen) mode will be there.
Can anyone tell me – when you are using the smooth ramping mode – can you set it at about 800 lumen and turn off. Will I be able to access moonlight, 800 lm and Turbo? I use these 3 levels a lot. Lights using NarsilM or Anduril lose their programmed level when you access moonlight which is a bummer.
On the V2 I can access all 3 levels any time I want which is nice.
Yes.
Long press – Moonlight – single press – Off – single press – set ramp – double press – Turbo – single press – set ramp – single press – Off
There was no glue in my flashlight. But the wires are too short. To remove the driver, you need to unsolder them from the MCPCB.
FET QN3109
Thanks, it’s got a big FET so it must use PWM, but I’m not seeing current regulators or a resistor bank for a second channel. I’ll see if I can make sense of the design later. The red glue looks to be hiding components.
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Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Also applied a layer of d-c-fix self-adhesive Milky (aka Sand) film under the original glass cover lens to further smooth the beam, works like a charm.
Also applied a layer of d-c-fix self-adhesive Milky (aka Sand) film under the original glass cover lens to further smooth the beam, works like a charm.
Well I have no technical means of measuring output but these lenses are not significantly lossy. Of course diffusing a beam sacrifices throw, but that’s where my Epileptical ™ reflector shields come in. Just got new supplies so will be refabbing them with extended tubing; that should circumscribe cutoff and proportionally boost range. Will be updating my DIY thread on mtbr so stay tuned.
Well Jason there’s a white plastic gasket that fits around the emitter and the base of the lens’ shell meshes with that, just have to line them up. Easy-peasy.
Didn’t compare heights side by side; though initially I too was under the impression that the lens was shorter, once installed it came up to the correct height inside the lamp head so that when screwed back on over the silicone O-ring the bezel held it in place perfectly. Can’t tell you how surprised I was!
Well Jason there’s a white plastic gasket that fits around the emitter and the base of the lens’ shell meshes with that, just have to line them up. Easy-peasy.
Didn’t compare heights side by side; though initially I too was under the impression that the lens was shorter, once installed it came up to the correct height inside the lamp head so that when screwed back on over the silicone O-ring the bezel held it in place perfectly. Can’t tell you how surprised I was!
Well Jason there’s a white plastic gasket that fits around the emitter and the base of the lens’ shell meshes with that, just have to line them up. Easy-peasy.
That TIR is sized to fit the xhp70. The xhp50 is smaller. I was assuming it might be tricky to get it centered properly.
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Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Yeah Jason I’d have thought the same. But the white plastic gasket has two levels of raised circles so guess it’s made to adapt to either size XHP. And the square base of emitter itself is flat and flush with the star, only its round dome is significantly three dimensional. White plastic shell encapsulating the lens comes to the same height of the reflector minus the latter’s inner ridge that helps seat the silicone O-ring, which simply sits on top of the lens’ shell without that ridge, it all fits perfectly inside the lamp head itself so no worries. (Interestingly the aluminum reflector seems to have the same size hole at its base as the naked lens.) Anyway once dropped in and rotated under pressure until it clicks into place that lens will stay centered. Still needs the cover glass though to hold it down, but that’s just one more opportunity to apply some d-c-fix.
Just as a heads up if you are interested in using 21700 cells in this SP33v3 or another compatible light the highly regarded Molicell 4200mAh P42A is the deal of the day at 18650batterystore dot com.They are being offered at $4.99 ea until Feb 4th
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never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups
I tried a Brinyte 21700 cell and couldn’t close the cap. I was afraid I would damage the springs. Maybe that cell is extra long at 75-76mm since it is a protected cell with a built-in charger.
I checked the specifications for the SP33v3 and it states only 26650 and 18650. I thought it would also support 21700 since it seems nearly identical to the Astrolux EC01, and that one states support for 21700 or 18650 (but not 26650?). I do wonder what the differences are if any.
I tried a Brinyte 21700 cell and couldn’t close the cap. I was afraid I would damage the springs. Maybe that cell is extra long at 75-76mm since it is a protected cell with a built-in charger.
I checked the specifications for the SP33v3 and it states only 26650 and 18650. I thought it would also support 21700 since it seems nearly identical to the Astrolux EC01, and that one states support for 21700 or 18650 (but not 26650?). I do wonder what the differences are if any.
The Molicell I referenced is an unprotected flat top cell.
The SP33v3 user guide recommends the use of unprotected 26650 and 21700 while stating 18650 as not recommended.
The 21700 cells have a lot of wiggle room without a sleeve to hold them.
Without a device to measure lumens I observe by eye greater brightness shown on a wall in total darkness 5 feet away with my Sp33v3 and a fully charged Molicell 21700 over the SP33v3 with a with a fully charged ShockLI 26650 5500mAh.This is on the turbo setting.
As with some other lights the cell used matters.YMMV
—
never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups
The SP33v3 user guide recommends the use of unprotected 26650 and 21700 while stating 18650 as not recommended.
Good point. I just confirmed this in the manual too.
I had previously done a quick check on the aliexpress listing which states: “Battery Options: One 18650 Li-ion battery or single 26650 battery” Interesting that they sell with 18650 despite not recommending it.
Yeah, might be biased.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Ceiling bounce is fine when you are comparing batteries or mods. It’s the same flashlight so the same beam angle. It’s not so great when you start comparing different models of lights. For battery tests it’s okay.
A light box is better and should be consistent enough to test differences in batteries. I would only test fully charged cells. FET lights are known for their inconsistent output, but if you did several tests, that should rule out contact issues in the battery tube and springs. The only variable is the battery and assuming they are the same length, to eliminate differences in the compressed spring height, it should be a pretty accurate test.
Make a note that heat can be a factor. A room temperature light can be brighter than one that’s been heated up. Maybe test the first battery for 10 to 15 seconds so the output has a chance to stabilize a little. Allow it to cool a bit before testing the second battery for the same duration.
If there is a decently large difference in the output then I think it has to be the battery.
Using a clamp meter to measure amp draws is a bit simpler. It eliminates the heat related output differences you get from the led.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Using a Samsung 40T 21700
Turn On – 3700
20 sec – 3500
30 – 3420
That is excellent for no mods. Very close to Sofirn’s rating, I’m very surprised
Piercing The Darkness YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/c/PiercingTheDarkness
I’m not liking that in ramping you have to wait 3 seconds to ramp if starting it on the lowest level
Piercing The Darkness YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/c/PiercingTheDarkness
Can anyone tell me – when you are using the smooth ramping mode – can you set it at about 800 lumen and turn off. Will I be able to access moonlight, 800 lm and Turbo? I use these 3 levels a lot. Lights using NarsilM or Anduril lose their programmed level when you access moonlight which is a bummer.
On the V2 I can access all 3 levels any time I want which is nice.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Yes, but you can’t go from moonlight (long press) to the programmed/ramped 800 lumen mode (short press), as far as I know. Turbo is double press.
From moonlight, if you start ramping that will become your new programmed mode. If you turn off from moonlight and then turn on, your previously programmed (800 lumen) mode will be there.
Yes.
Long press – Moonlight – single press – Off – single press – set ramp – double press – Turbo – single press – set ramp – single press – Off
From off the usual double press is instant Turbo
I’m absolutely loving the IF25
Piercing The Darkness YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/c/PiercingTheDarkness
Nice, I think I’ll buy one.
Has anyone seen this new driver?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I was going to take pics for you but….it’s glued
the bezel isn’t though so that’s one less obstacle
Piercing The Darkness YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/c/PiercingTheDarkness
Am I going to have to be the first to take it apart again? Ah man.
It looks like the switch cover unscrews. Can the switch be removed? If so, you can look inside to find a flat section of pcb to press against.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I would if I was keeping it but it’s going to be sold.
Piercing The Darkness YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/c/PiercingTheDarkness
There was no glue in my flashlight. But the wires are too short. To remove the driver, you need to unsolder them from the MCPCB.
FET QN3109
Sorry for my bad English.
Thanks, it’s got a big FET so it must use PWM, but I’m not seeing current regulators or a resistor bank for a second channel. I’ll see if I can make sense of the design later. The red glue looks to be hiding components.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I found the second channel (Moonlight FET) on the MCU board.
Sorry for my bad English.
Hey, just discovered that Kaidomain’s 32.5MM (D) X 18MMM (H) 5-DEGREE PMMA OPTICAL LENS FOR CREE XHP70 is a drop-in replacement for the original aluminum OP reflector in Sofirn’s SP33!!!
Also applied a layer of d-c-fix self-adhesive Milky (aka Sand) film under the original glass cover lens to further smooth the beam, works like a charm.
https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/diy-reflector-shields-mag...
Awesome, thanks for reporting! Do you have beamshots with the lens, without/with the d-c-fix film?
Sorry but BLF keeps disappearing my pics.
https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/diy-reflector-shields-mag...
Very nice! Any noticeable loss in output?
As for posting pictures on BLF, it trips up most folks initially, so there’s a tutorial: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/56178
Well I have no technical means of measuring output but these lenses are not significantly lossy. Of course diffusing a beam sacrifices throw, but that’s where my Epileptical ™ reflector shields come in. Just got new supplies so will be refabbing them with extended tubing; that should circumscribe cutoff and proportionally boost range. Will be updating my DIY thread on mtbr so stay tuned.
Andychrist, so the lens is the same height as the SP33 reflector? I long suspected it was shorter.
Did you have any issues getting the 7mmx7mm square hole to center up on the 5mmx5mm led?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Well Jason there’s a white plastic gasket that fits around the emitter and the base of the lens’ shell meshes with that, just have to line them up. Easy-peasy.
Didn’t compare heights side by side; though initially I too was under the impression that the lens was shorter, once installed it came up to the correct height inside the lamp head so that when screwed back on over the silicone O-ring the bezel held it in place perfectly. Can’t tell you how surprised I was!
Does it come in other angles , like 45 or 60?
Well pennzy there’s also a 25 degree one on Kaidomain’s website but that’s all I could find there.
32.5MM (D) X 18MMM (H) 25-DEGREE PMMA OPTICAL LENS FOR CREE XHP70
Of course if you apply d-c-fix to the underside of the original cover glass it will spread out the beam considerably further.
https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/diy-reflector-shields-mag...
DYAC!
That TIR is sized to fit the xhp70. The xhp50 is smaller. I was assuming it might be tricky to get it centered properly.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Yeah Jason I’d have thought the same. But the white plastic gasket has two levels of raised circles so guess it’s made to adapt to either size XHP. And the square base of emitter itself is flat and flush with the star, only its round dome is significantly three dimensional. White plastic shell encapsulating the lens comes to the same height of the reflector minus the latter’s inner ridge that helps seat the silicone O-ring, which simply sits on top of the lens’ shell without that ridge, it all fits perfectly inside the lamp head itself so no worries. (Interestingly the aluminum reflector seems to have the same size hole at its base as the naked lens.) Anyway once dropped in and rotated under pressure until it clicks into place that lens will stay centered. Still needs the cover glass though to hold it down, but that’s just one more opportunity to apply some d-c-fix.
https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/diy-reflector-shields-mag...
Just as a heads up if you are interested in using 21700 cells in this SP33v3 or another compatible light the highly regarded Molicell 4200mAh P42A is the deal of the day at 18650batterystore dot com.They are being offered at $4.99 ea until Feb 4th
never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups
Does the SP33v3 take 21700 cells?
I tried a Brinyte 21700 cell and couldn’t close the cap. I was afraid I would damage the springs. Maybe that cell is extra long at 75-76mm since it is a protected cell with a built-in charger.
I checked the specifications for the SP33v3 and it states only 26650 and 18650. I thought it would also support 21700 since it seems nearly identical to the Astrolux EC01, and that one states support for 21700 or 18650 (but not 26650?). I do wonder what the differences are if any.
Takes unprotected cells only.
The Molicell I referenced is an unprotected flat top cell.
The SP33v3 user guide recommends the use of unprotected 26650 and 21700 while stating 18650 as not recommended.
The 21700 cells have a lot of wiggle room without a sleeve to hold them.
Without a device to measure lumens I observe by eye greater brightness shown on a wall in total darkness 5 feet away with my Sp33v3 and a fully charged Molicell 21700 over the SP33v3 with a with a fully charged ShockLI 26650 5500mAh.This is on the turbo setting.
As with some other lights the cell used matters.YMMV
never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups
Good point. I just confirmed this in the manual too.
I had previously done a quick check on the aliexpress listing which states: “Battery Options: One 18650 Li-ion battery or single 26650 battery” Interesting that they sell with 18650 despite not recommending it.
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