Trustfire TR-J12 measurements (5 x XM-L)

131 posts / 0 new
Last post
xed888
Offline
Last seen: 10 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 07/16/2011 - 12:22
Posts: 771
Location: BN

Has anyone bought a UCL lens for the J12 yet?

2100
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 2 months ago
Joined: 05/28/2011 - 10:28
Posts: 4512
Location: SINGAPORE

No size for UCL, unfortunately.

xed888
Offline
Last seen: 10 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 07/16/2011 - 12:22
Posts: 771
Location: BN

I have sent them an email asking if they might be able to cut it down to size. hopefully, they can

xed888
Offline
Last seen: 10 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 07/16/2011 - 12:22
Posts: 771
Location: BN

I got a reply and they have 60mm UCL acrylic lens for sale. Now the J12 uses 59mm lens though.

mavwong
Offline
Last seen: 9 years 8 months ago
Joined: 02/19/2012 - 20:53
Posts: 5
Location: Singapore

Photos of the driver

 

 

xed888
Offline
Last seen: 10 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 07/16/2011 - 12:22
Posts: 771
Location: BN

can you measure the diameter of the driver please? 

dthrckt
dthrckt's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 days 7 hours ago
Joined: 11/08/2011 - 10:11
Posts: 4656
Location: Upstate NY

and height? 

thanks for posting - I've been waiting for someone to do that.

This might fit - and if the specs are accurate, and the switch can handle the current, it would make the trj12 the brightest light under $100?

http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020167

wish it had more levels

mavwong
Offline
Last seen: 9 years 8 months ago
Joined: 02/19/2012 - 20:53
Posts: 5
Location: Singapore

just manage to take out again for rough measurement. bottom pcb is about 28mm, I only measure the head's bottom thread, the second PCB height is about 25mm. take note the above is not exact as I didn't take out the entire pcb assembly.

bitcore
bitcore's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 years 10 months ago
Joined: 03/24/2012 - 20:32
Posts: 2

I just popped mine apart before finding this thread. Is anyone else bothered by how small of a gauge the wires are that come from the driver and feed the LED array?

I saw someone gained access to the LED array on another website (forgot which and don't have link), which revealed some very ugly soldering work but they didn't post how the were able to. Does anyone else know? 

edit: The threads on mine are fairly cruddy - you must be careful not to cross-thread when you are putting the tailcap on.

dthrckt
dthrckt's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 days 7 hours ago
Joined: 11/08/2011 - 10:11
Posts: 4656
Location: Upstate NY

mavwong wrote:

just manage to take out again for rough measurement. bottom pcb is about 28mm, I only measure the head's bottom thread, the second PCB height is about 25mm. take note the above is not exact as I didn't take out the entire pcb assembly.

thanks!  my KD 9xml driver measures 28.45mm high.  The second pcb, which is horizontal, is 24.9 and the main 26mm.  The coil is slightly wider than the second pcb, so even though there's room on the side opposite from the coil, the driver (except bottom board) cannot be placed in a cylinder with an inner diameter that matches the outer diameter of the second pcb.

so...if the bottom pcb of the KD driver isn't wide enough (which I doubt) that's an easy fix.

the kd driver might be too tall - but I doubt it, since I think your measurement is from the top of the horizontal pcb to the top of the vertical one.  

the kd bottom pcb is 1.6mm thick.

fishinfool
fishinfool's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 5 months ago
Joined: 03/09/2010 - 00:30
Posts: 4342
Location: Hilo, Hawaii

Aloha and welcome to BLF bitcore!

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

bitcore
bitcore's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 years 10 months ago
Joined: 03/24/2012 - 20:32
Posts: 2

Thanks, I sort-of dove straight into flashaholism with the TR-J12, three 4sevens 26650's, an imax B6AC hobby charger, a lipo sack, and some hacked apart radio shack D cell battery holders that are waiting on me to glue to a board of some sort so I can make a balance charger cradle for the 26650's.

 

I may have a bit of an issue with the 4-sevens batteries though, their nipples are not quite large enough for them to stack effectively. The green plastic jacketing is thick around the top and bottom, restricting the cell to cell contact. The last thing I want is to create a hotspot on a battery due to a high current + weak connection that develops into something more dangerous. I've seen pictures of what happens when these lithium ion batteries pop, and that's the LAST thing I want to happen.

raccoon city
raccoon city's picture
Offline
Last seen: 22 min 56 sec ago
Joined: 10/06/2010 - 02:35
Posts: 17589
Location: रॅकून सिटी Palm Desert CA USA

Glad to have you here, bitcore!

gottagreetallthenewbiesRC

xed888
Offline
Last seen: 10 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 07/16/2011 - 12:22
Posts: 771
Location: BN

Using IMRs, i noticed that the J12 dims when voltage gets low instead of flickering/going down a mode when I use protected 18650s.

Anyone else notice that?

benckie
benckie's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 years 9 months ago
Joined: 07/04/2011 - 08:36
Posts: 1513
Location: Western Austraila

It's ment to dim, not sure about the flickering could be the pcbs on the batteries.

benckie
benckie's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 years 9 months ago
Joined: 07/04/2011 - 08:36
Posts: 1513
Location: Western Austraila
benckie
benckie's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 years 9 months ago
Joined: 07/04/2011 - 08:36
Posts: 1513
Location: Western Austraila
drd
Offline
Last seen: 9 years 5 months ago
Joined: 05/11/2012 - 11:39
Posts: 58

I'm running mine with 4 NiMH cells and it's visually brighter than 3 TF 18650s or 2 26650s (Lighthound, 3.5aH).  Verified with my meter just to make sure my eye's weren't deceiving me, and sho nuf brighter.  Tried it with 4 cheapo 10 year old C Energizer 2.2aH rechargeables just to see how it would preform.  Bright and steady for ~30-35mins with the cheapos.  Then got some quality Cs, 4 LSD Accu 4.5aH cells and I'm not going back to Li for this light!

Special thanks to 2100 for the voltage graph that convinced me to go with NiMHs.  I have many lights, but this is my new fav all purpose now.  Brighter than my factory X6, second only to my Torch.  Best bang for the buck right now IMO.

VIET PRIDE BULLIES
Offline
Last seen: 8 years 2 months ago
Joined: 05/06/2012 - 15:21
Posts: 95
Location: Vietnam, south east Asia
To 2100 "You will not be able to use this for more than 30 seconds in a tropical country unless you want to risk the driver electronics.  You could use medium, but then it'd be let down by the PWM.   It could survive if it is a 900g light like the XTAR S1.

" Thanks for all the infos 2100 ! But are you saying that TJ12 should not stay on high mode over 30sec in tropical places? Still suggest this as a budget light ? Since I been looking for this light for the OTF and price and I live in a tropical country Thanks!

benckie
benckie's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 years 9 months ago
Joined: 07/04/2011 - 08:36
Posts: 1513
Location: Western Austraila

I live in Australia a warm hot dry country during summer and the TR-J12 can be use flat out on high till the batteries give up ! Just like the TR-3T6. But I would search for the TR-J16 and TR-J18 on this forum the same brand around the same price with more LEDs or the same amount of LEDs for cheaper.

VIET PRIDE BULLIES
Offline
Last seen: 8 years 2 months ago
Joined: 05/06/2012 - 15:21
Posts: 95
Location: Vietnam, south east Asia
Thanks Benckie, I seen your post of TR-J16 as well...and still I am thinking
drd
Offline
Last seen: 9 years 5 months ago
Joined: 05/11/2012 - 11:39
Posts: 58

benckie wrote:

I live in Australia a warm hot dry country during summer and the TR-J12 can be use flat out on high till the batteries give up ! Just like the TR-3T6. But I would search for the TR-J16 and TR-J18 on this forum the same brand around the same price with more LEDs or the same amount of LEDs for cheaper.

I'm kinda like you Bennie.  I like my 3T6, but I'd be reluctant to choose it over this J12 now, haha.  Not sure what I'd do with that J18!

benckie
benckie's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 years 9 months ago
Joined: 07/04/2011 - 08:36
Posts: 1513
Location: Western Austraila

Yeah I hear you but I hate to say it the TR-J12 is on the to bright side

VIET PRIDE BULLIES
Offline
Last seen: 8 years 2 months ago
Joined: 05/06/2012 - 15:21
Posts: 95
Location: Vietnam, south east Asia
benckie wrote:

Yeah I hear you but I hate to say it the TR-J12 is on the to bright side

Hey Benckie, If you get to pick one J12 - J16 - J18 which one would you take?
raccoon city
raccoon city's picture
Offline
Last seen: 22 min 56 sec ago
Joined: 10/06/2010 - 02:35
Posts: 17589
Location: रॅकून सिटी Palm Desert CA USA

Welcome to the madness, drd!

drd
Offline
Last seen: 9 years 5 months ago
Joined: 05/11/2012 - 11:39
Posts: 58

raccoon city wrote:

Welcome to the madness, drd!

Smile

Shopbot
Shopbot's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 years 1 day ago
Joined: 03/23/2012 - 07:11
Posts: 95
Location: Sydney

VIET PRIDE BULLIES wrote:
benckie wrote:

Yeah I hear you but I hate to say it the TR-J12 is on the to bright side

Hey Benckie, If you get to pick one J12 - J16 - J18 which one would you take?

My understanding is (correct me if I'm wrong):

J12 and J16 = both 5 LED, J18 = 7 LED

So for brightness, J18 would give a better flood (throw would be about the same?) BUT less runtime then the other two.

J16 doesn't support 26650 (so that sucks) BUT has a stainless steel head.

My J12 runs for pretty long, so if I have a choice I would get the J18 (compromise on runtime to get a better flood).

VIET PRIDE BULLIES
Offline
Last seen: 8 years 2 months ago
Joined: 05/06/2012 - 15:21
Posts: 95
Location: Vietnam, south east Asia
Thanks Shopbot
drd
Offline
Last seen: 9 years 5 months ago
Joined: 05/11/2012 - 11:39
Posts: 58

I hope you guys didn't miss the point of my post.  My J12 is discernibly brighter with four NiMH C cells than with two 18650s.

Based on Mitro's excellent data, and 2100's assertion that 2 Li cells were brighter than 3, I hypothesized that a voltage of around 6.5-7.5 might be ideal.  That means 2 undercharged Li cells, or perhaps 6 NiMH sub-Cs.  I could not find sub-Cs that would give a desirable enough run time or fit more than 5 in the tube, so I tried some old rechargeable C's I had laying around.  It worked great!  Mitro's graph is missing data in the relevant range of my experiment, so I did a linear regression based on the other data points and it makes perfect sense now.  You're still getting more watts with 4 NiMH C cells than you are with 1, 2 or 3 Li cells.  Significantly more watts than 1 Li cell, and moderately more than 2 or 3.  Plus 21.6 wH instead of 19.2 (so about 12.3% longer run-time) and no worry about ruining or popping your unprotected Li cells. 

 

benckie
benckie's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 years 9 months ago
Joined: 07/04/2011 - 08:36
Posts: 1513
Location: Western Austraila

VIET PRIDE BULLIES wrote:
benckie wrote:

Yeah I hear you but I hate to say it the TR-J12 is on the to bright side

Hey Benckie, If you get to pick one J12 - J16 - J18 which one would you take?

It depends realy, if I did not have 26650 cells I would go the TR-J16 for looks, for brightness the TR-J12 & TR-J16 are to bright so not sure about the TR-J18 being to bright on high for general use, but I still want one. But even the TR-3T6 is hard to beat for performance and long runs

Pages