You don’t know to what long term operational tolerances the engineers had in mind. You have some general idea of some of the limitations of some of the hardware. Also, can you confirm what fixtures all those people were using those failed bulbs in? When push comes to shove, a reputable manufacturer will stand behind their product. but a small company that went out of existence won’t. Buying from a small startup company that claims some few great things large scale is not the wisest decision. Large scale street light installations are a good example of this with cities frequently choosing the big manufacturers like Cree, GE, and Leotek. They don’t want to end up down the road with a bunch of failing lights, like Berkley or Detroit, and not have something to fall back onto. Good luck claiming a mass warranty failure from bankrupt/closed/merger-ed company! Not to derail this thread since these sun-likes look really good.
Quote:
EDIT: and it sounds like your friend experienced the “joys” of Hyperikon
Nope. They were not Hyperikons.
Quote:
glare is a non issue it depends though…
Glare is very much an issue. It’s why we have things like minimum and sometimes maxmimum recommended light levels and daylighting methods that reduce the sun’s glare through skylights with things recessing and panelization.
As far as the durability is concerned, the lifespan of the lights are most likely dependent on the electrolytic capacitors on the driver circuits. LED failed visibly flickering usually caused by capacitor failures.
So, make sure that wherever you sourced the driver from, the capacitors must be of high-quality with high hour-rating and temperature. The driver compartment of the LED light is usually toasty.
—
Searching for High CRI leds since 2010...
Has finally gotten to the bottom after 10 years of delving deep into that rabbit hole of them high CRI lights...
High CRI, high quality lights doesn't need to be expensive, or is it?
Light quality-wise, in order to ease separation of bulbs, I wish to insist a bit more on R9 and R12: both sides of the Achille's heel for many high CRI claiming lights. To achieve that I'm proposing the following tweak to the current Qf formula :
Is there any practical difference between korean/china sunlike leds aside from china being cheaper and higher cri? Like… is the mtbf double on korean ones???
—
I only like high CRI, I have or have had in order of pref:
Fireflies NOV-MU 21 4500k E21A (preorder)
Fireflies ROT66 219B SW45 D220
Fireflies E07 219B SW45
Emisar D4 SST20 4000k frosted lens (the lack of some preset levels kinda makes me want to rate it lower though...)
Jaxman E2L 219c 5700k (indoor use only due to color temp)
Does not ship to USA, California due to some California regulations based on the response I got from them. I wanted to purchase a few bulbs from them to test and then a set to put in my house if it is good.
Is there any alternatives?
I went on sunlikelamp.com, But the site is difficult to understand, each LED has a chart of 7 tests with varying R9 values. I don’t know what matches to what. Anyone have experience from them? I want to test their bulbs. They also do not show the duv/tint value I believe. I definitely want something below BBL, or a tiny bit rosy.
Does not ship to USA, California due to some California regulations based on the response I got from them. I wanted to purchase a few bulbs from them to test and then a set to put in my house if it is good.
Is there any alternatives?
I went on sunlikelamp.com, But the site is difficult to understand, each LED has a chart of 7 tests with varying R9 values. I don’t know what matches to what. Anyone have experience from them? I want to test their bulbs. They also do not show the duv/tint value I believe. I definitely want something below BBL, or a tiny bit rosy.
I just ordered a bulb from him. The website could definitely use some updating. The charts are labelled with the LED so you can figure out which one matches the model # of the option you selected.
It’s a little naughty, but you might be able to bypass the restriction by choosing “Nevada” as the state, then adding the letters “CA” to your town name. The website should be none the wiser, and the delivery company will figure it out.
The restriction is on the power factor, for which the California Energy Commission requires a minimum of 0.7 to be sold to any California based customers. Our flicker-free lamps have a power factor of 0.6, and are therefore not eligible.
We are working on improvements to have our bulbs compliant and hope to have them available soon!
Is there any practical difference between korean/china sunlike leds aside from china being cheaper and higher cri? Like… is the mtbf double on korean ones???
SAW (Korean) – its TRI-R (3-R) technology. It is with violet crystals only. SOL (China) – it is with ~4 types of crystals.
I think that 3-R is more durable, and if violet peack will appear after years and years of uses, it will be ok (SORAA, yuji, samsung master color – all of them have violet peack)
I went on sunlikelamp.com, But the site is difficult to understand, each LED has a chart of 7 tests with varying R9 values. I don’t know what matches to what. Anyone have experience from them? I want to test their bulbs. They also do not show the duv/tint value I believe. I definitely want something below BBL, or a tiny bit rosy.
I have 2 buyers from this forum already. 6w 4000k SOL and 9w 3000k SAW, may be they will publikate tests
Also I sended 10xss with 4 types of SOLs to test to maukka
SunLike wrote:
No, I can not wait! I just send this lamp today. World must know this thing (190g weight)
2700/3200/5000/5600/2700+3200/5000+5600/2700+5000/2700+5600
/3200+5000/3200+5600/2700+3200+5000/2700+3200+5600
/5000+5600+2700/5000+5600+3200/2700+3200+5000+5600k SunLike10xss
It can be my last lamp. I am going to escape from the MORDOR. I just get passports.
[...] Also I sended 10xss with 4 types of SOLs to test to maukka [...]
I can't vouch for the shipping carrier (...as I don't know them), but I totally vouch for maukka completing the test once the bulb arrived, in the coming days/weeks.
And that's why, currently in our "Light Bulb table", your SunLike bulbs are referred as "Test to come".
PS: so far, based on your manufacturer tests you are #1 of this table. Congrats Adam!
[…] Also I sended 10xss with 4 types of SOLs to test to maukka […]
I can’t vouch for the shipping carrier (…as I don’t know them), but I totally vouch for maukka completing the test once the bulb arrived, in the coming days/weeks.
And that’s why, currently in our “Light Bulb table“, your SunLike bulbs are referred as “Test to come“.
PS: so far, based on your manufacturer tests you are #1 of this table. Congrats Adam!
add 2700k to CCT of Sunlike10X please
also your tabble in .png is 382kb
you can compress it to 295kb by optipng to 295kb
and additional to ~280kb with PNGoutWIN after optipng (it is slow)
ps. it is not manufacturer test, it is independed test by lampters.ru =)
Also my lampman’s assistant have spectrometr UPRtek and he have the same results
Clever remark, it has been performed by lamptest.ru . But I remembered when I first discover your website (and then contacted you), I tried to found back their tests of your products on their own website and I couldn't find them back there (for instance, you do not seem to appear in their manufacturer list). Do you know why?
I always think of optimising PNG and JPG for the website I'm managing, but I don't have the same reflex when I just share images online. After tests a while back I settled to use "compressor.io" (391>218kb) and "tinypng" (391>213kb), depending from cases. I'll have to give PNGoutWIN/optiPNG duo a try.
Clever remark, it has been performed by lamptest.ru . But I remembered when I first discover your website (and then contacted you), I tried to found back their tests of your products on their own website and I couldn’t find them back there (for instance, you do not seem to appear in their manufacturer list). Do you know why?
because I do not pay to him =)
I deleted .ru from tests, beuse I can not find on his web-site tests of my lamps easy. Some month ago it was on the main page.
there is tests of:
I always think of optimising PNG and JPG for the website I’m managing, but I don’t have the same reflex when I just share images online. After tests a while back I settled to use “compressor.io“ (391>218kb) and “tinypng“ (391>213kb), depending from cases. I’ll have to give PNGoutWIN/optiPNG duo a try.
compressor.io when “lossless” just used optipng – it is free (OS) and tiny
but you can use optipng by yourself
also you can compress some better (0-10%) if you will use after optipng pngOUTwin (not free and really slow)
tinypng.com is not lossless!
and I additional compressed it by pngOUTwin =)
it convert your png file from 24-bit to 8-bit.
you can do it in the paint.net also (free – OS)
R5 line and spectrum also.. so much artefacts in 8-bit
Is there any practical difference between korean/china sunlike leds aside from china being cheaper and higher cri? Like… is the mtbf double on korean ones???
SAW (Korean) – its TRI-R (3-R) technology. It is with violet crystals only. SOL (China) – it is with ~4 types of crystals.
I think that 3-R is more durable, and if violet peack will appear after years and years of uses, it will be ok (SORAA, yuji, samsung master color – all of them have violet peack)
The reds seem a bit over saturated and it’s a bit too yellow for me. Still way better that any lower cri bulb. It’s quite heavy and is still working fine after four years. I’ve had other cheap bulbs £4-£6 fail in 1-2 years. I think this is the same bulb:
As proposed in one of my previous post, I've committed the tweak on the "BLF Bulb Quality factor" formula
Following Barkuti's proposal, I've isolated the bulbs with some missing data in a separated zone
I'm working on integrated Joshk's results
I added the latest review of Maukka. Those new bulbs, coming from "Ligthning Arena" ranked #3 (A- grade) and #11 (B grade). Many thanks to Maukka for his task!
Is there any practical difference between korean/china sunlike leds aside from china being cheaper and higher cri? Like… is the mtbf double on korean ones???
SAW (Korean) – its TRI-R (3-R) technology. It is with violet crystals only. SOL (China) – it is with ~4 types of crystals.
I think that 3-R is more durable, and if violet peack will appear after years and years of uses, it will be ok (SORAA, yuji, samsung master color – all of them have violet peack)
Guys, once those tryout bulbs will be received, could you give us an update here and tell us if there are any manufacturer / brand name associated to those ones? Also if you know someone with a spectrometer on hand, you know what to do...
Wellp, it's certainly creative but somewhat lacks appropriateness. Even if funny looking being judgemental may not feel right to some. Something tells me you wouldn't use such advertising, or would you? Just that.
By the way, how about upgrading Miss Shite's emitters to SAW/SOL?
—
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
It should say “Do you want to protect your eyes” or maybe just “protect your eyes”
Really I do’t know if the violent wavelengths does other kinds of harm since shorter wavelengths are more energetic.
You don’t know to what long term operational tolerances the engineers had in mind. You have some general idea of some of the limitations of some of the hardware. Also, can you confirm what fixtures all those people were using those failed bulbs in? When push comes to shove, a reputable manufacturer will stand behind their product. but a small company that went out of existence won’t. Buying from a small startup company that claims some few great things large scale is not the wisest decision. Large scale street light installations are a good example of this with cities frequently choosing the big manufacturers like Cree, GE, and Leotek. They don’t want to end up down the road with a bunch of failing lights, like Berkley or Detroit, and not have something to fall back onto. Good luck claiming a mass warranty failure from bankrupt/closed/merger-ed company! Not to derail this thread since these sun-likes look really good.
Nope. They were not Hyperikons.
Glare is very much an issue. It’s why we have things like minimum and sometimes maxmimum recommended light levels and daylighting methods that reduce the sun’s glare through skylights with things recessing and panelization.
As far as the durability is concerned, the lifespan of the lights are most likely dependent on the electrolytic capacitors on the driver circuits. LED failed visibly flickering usually caused by capacitor failures.
So, make sure that wherever you sourced the driver from, the capacitors must be of high-quality with high hour-rating and temperature. The driver compartment of the LED light is usually toasty.
Searching for High CRI leds since 2010...
Has finally gotten to the bottom after 10 years of delving deep into that rabbit hole of them high CRI lights...
High CRI, high quality lights doesn't need to be expensive, or is it?
Rise and Shine my precious...
Light quality-wise, in order to ease separation of bulbs, I wish to insist a bit more on R9 and R12: both sides of the Achille's heel for many high CRI claiming lights. To achieve that I'm proposing the following tweak to the current Qf formula :
Qf = [(Ra *1)+(R9*3)+(R12*3)+(Rf*3)] / 10 >> Qf = [(Ra *1)+(R9*3)+(R12*3)+(Rf*2)] / 9
That way :
What do you think?
Rise and Shine my precious...
Is there any practical difference between korean/china sunlike leds aside from china being cheaper and higher cri? Like… is the mtbf double on korean ones???
I only like high CRI, I have or have had in order of pref:
Fireflies NOV-MU 21 4500k E21A (preorder)
Fireflies ROT66 219B SW45 D220
Fireflies E07 219B SW45
Emisar D4 SST20 4000k frosted lens (the lack of some preset levels kinda makes me want to rate it lower though...)
Jaxman E2L 219c 5700k (indoor use only due to color temp)
Jaxman E2L 219c 4000k
Klarus Mi7
Varmint removal (throw):
Convoy M21A C8 ver SST20 4000k (5a)
Convoy S2+ SST20 4000k (3200ma)
Lumintop ODL20C
CRI test dump https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1kcl_uOhgfpR4RSsa8F4b-UUVP9mkL6Cr...
https://www.waveformlighting.com
Does not ship to USA, California due to some California regulations based on the response I got from them. I wanted to purchase a few bulbs from them to test and then a set to put in my house if it is good.
Is there any alternatives?
I went on sunlikelamp.com, But the site is difficult to understand, each LED has a chart of 7 tests with varying R9 values. I don’t know what matches to what. Anyone have experience from them? I want to test their bulbs. They also do not show the duv/tint value I believe. I definitely want something below BBL, or a tiny bit rosy.
I just ordered a bulb from him. The website could definitely use some updating. The charts are labelled with the LED so you can figure out which one matches the model # of the option you selected.
I live in California and have bought from waveformlighting before. You can see test results in my earlier link.
I was in check out and was blocked from shipping. Could you try again to see if it was a new policy waveformlighting added?
It’s a little naughty, but you might be able to bypass the restriction by choosing “Nevada” as the state, then adding the letters “CA” to your town name. The website should be none the wiser, and the delivery company will figure it out.
Samsung 30Q vs Nickel Strip: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ys5wwUJOz58
My Spectrometer Tests:
SST-20 4000K
219b R9080 4000K
COBs_5700K_CRI95+
E21A R9080 5000K
D-C-Fix Diffuser Film
I entered my address and it gave me shipping options. I suggest you send them an email. Also try using another browser.
I sent them an email and this was the response:
I guess I’ll try some round about methods.
SAW (Korean) – its TRI-R (3-R) technology. It is with violet crystals only.
SOL (China) – it is with ~4 types of crystals.
I think that 3-R is more durable, and if violet peack will appear after years and years of uses, it will be ok (SORAA, yuji, samsung master color – all of them have violet peack)
BelMORDOR’s Ламповщик|Lampman
https://t.me/sunlikenews
I have 2 buyers from this forum already. 6w 4000k SOL and 9w 3000k SAW, may be they will publikate tests
Also I sended 10xss with 4 types of SOLs to test to maukka
BelMORDOR’s Ламповщик|Lampman
https://t.me/sunlikenews
I can't vouch for the shipping carrier (...as I don't know them), but I totally vouch for maukka completing the test once the bulb arrived, in the coming days/weeks.
And that's why, currently in our "Light Bulb table", your SunLike bulbs are referred as "Test to come".
PS: so far, based on your manufacturer tests you are #1 of this table. Congrats Adam!
Rise and Shine my precious...
add 2700k to CCT of Sunlike10X please
also your tabble in .png is 382kb
you can compress it to 295kb by optipng to 295kb
and additional to ~280kb with PNGoutWIN after optipng (it is slow)
ps. it is not manufacturer test, it is independed test by lampters.ru =)
Also my lampman’s assistant have spectrometr UPRtek and he have the same results
BelMORDOR’s Ламповщик|Lampman
https://t.me/sunlikenews
Done.
Clever remark, it has been performed by lamptest.ru . But I remembered when I first discover your website (and then contacted you), I tried to found back their tests of your products on their own website and I couldn't find them back there (for instance, you do not seem to appear in their manufacturer list). Do you know why?
I always think of optimising PNG and JPG for the website I'm managing, but I don't have the same reflex when I just share images online. After tests a while back I settled to use "compressor.io" (391>218kb) and "tinypng" (391>213kb), depending from cases. I'll have to give PNGoutWIN/optiPNG duo a try.
Rise and Shine my precious...
because I do not pay to him =)
I deleted .ru from tests, beuse I can not find on his web-site tests of my lamps easy. Some month ago it was on the main page.
there is tests of:
my first sunlike TRI-R bulbs from jan.2018
SOLs – China
really thanks to him for all of this tests, because I still do ot have spectrometr =(
BelMORDOR’s Ламповщик|Lampman
https://t.me/sunlikenews
compressor.io when “lossless” just used optipng – it is free (OS) and tiny
tinypng.com is not lossless! and I additional compressed it by pngOUTwin =)but you can use optipng by yourself
also you can compress some better (0-10%) if you will use after optipng pngOUTwin (not free and really slow)
it convert your png file from 24-bit to 8-bit.
you can do it in the paint.net also (free – OS)
R5 line and spectrum also.. so much artefacts in 8-bit
BelMORDOR’s Ламповщик|Lampman
https://t.me/sunlikenews
Which of the two do you recommend?
Once i ordered a bulb from https://well-lit.co.uk
The reds seem a bit over saturated and it’s a bit too yellow for me. Still way better that any lower cri bulb. It’s quite heavy and is still working fine after four years. I’ve had other cheap bulbs £4-£6 fail in 1-2 years. I think this is the same bulb:
https://civilight.nl/en/products/civilight-led-retrofit-bulb-cl-16565-146/
Very roughly:
Rise and Shine my precious...
Some news around the Ultra High CRI table :
Rise and Shine my precious...
any!
BelMORDOR’s Ламповщик|Lampman
https://t.me/sunlikenews
Guys, once those tryout bulbs will be received, could you give us an update here and tell us if there are any manufacturer / brand name associated to those ones? Also if you know someone with a spectrometer on hand, you know what to do...
Rise and Shine my precious...
I’ll post a test on the 4000K and 5000K versions as I also ordered them.
just a bit of creative advertising
BelMORDOR’s Ламповщик|Lampman
https://t.me/sunlikenews
Wellp, it's certainly creative but somewhat lacks appropriateness. Even if funny looking being judgemental may not feel right to some. Something tells me you wouldn't use such advertising, or would you? Just that.
By the way, how about upgrading Miss Shite's emitters to SAW/SOL?
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
It should say “Do you want to protect your eyes” or maybe just “protect your eyes”
Really I do’t know if the violent wavelengths does other kinds of harm since shorter wavelengths are more energetic.
Pages