I just wanted to throw this out there for anyone who might be curious. I just got my D-18 a week or so ago with stock SST-20 4000K and wanted to show what it looks like compared to shaving the domes. It’s beautiful shaved :sunglasses:
L to R. XP-L HI 5D, Nichia 219C 4K/5k mix, SST-20 4K slice dome, SST-20 4K dome on, SST-20 3k shave dome in D4 and Tool AA.
Been wondering about slicing SST20. Can you post a picture of single SST20, domed and shaved. Beams i mean.
Unfortunately not any time real soon. Just bought the D18 without asking my better half so I’m going to lay low for a while but if I get an itch and buy some less I’ll throw them in my D1 and take a photo. I can tell you the tint is the best I’ve personally ever had in a light, but I’ve never owned a 219B. The center two lights are the same LED and you can see a drastic difference in the photo and real life. In my lumintop tool the 3000k is sliced and in a reflector, makes a nice tight beam
Does it get rosy after slicing? I can see photos but words can describe it better
Very much rosy. Not in a bad way either, I would say it’s nearly perfect
Well, I think slicing is a nice way of improving the tint and to some extent the CRI of emitters. I don't have an spectrometer but my heavily modified SK98, with sliced XHP50A 3500K CRI90+ at up to ≈4A, outputs a pleasing warm light (the slicing may have set the CCT just a tad above 3000K) which is very convenient when jogging at night on the roads across my town's nearby fields. Casual drivers don't complain, and rain or fog is no problem.
Where an emitter ends up being rosy or not when sliced or shaved it mostly depends of its starting Duv, it may not happen for emitters with a high Duv or green tinted (relatively common nowadays). The above sliced XHP50A's output looks super close to my patio's halogen lamp, it's all I can say. 
I wouldn’t believe it if I didn’t see it. Or maybe I would cause when I sliced the 4K SST’s I didn’t really know what would happen. My favorite tint was always Cree 5d and nichia looked slightly weird to me. When I cut the silicone off the SST’s I wasn’t kicking myself the next day. The loss of lumens was made up for in the throw and tint, and possibly higher CRI? Cause as much as we love lumens, in reality we’re only using a fraction of them in daily life.
Could this be the reason why SST-20 j4 hb4 3000k which measured 3700k had smooth beam without discoloration, while SST-20 j3 ja3 2700k (measured 3300k) has some blue narrow lines in Fenix bc25r even after dedoming (shaving above bond wires)? It has been said that you never know what are you going to get from kaidomain since they aren’t verified and tested. The original xp-g3 had a way worse discoloration in Fenix bc25r with one part of the beam purple and another severe greenish yellow.
Could have stayed with a 3700k but the color temperature was too high since everything above 3500k suddenly starts to look too white.
Blue narrow lines? Can't comment about that, Namelessusername.
You also say “The original xp-g3 had a way worse discoloration in Fenix bc25r with one part of the beam purple and another severe greenish yellow.”. Huh? In some way this has something to do with the BC25R's optics (reflector?), and the usually resulting “fried egg beam” as it is called by other experts here. It's all I can say.
Concerning the “you never know what are you going to get from kaidomain since they aren’t verified and tested”, in this respect what I can say is what you believe matters. I believe positively concerning outbound or abroad trade, and I always get great service from Kaidomain, with absolutely nothing to complain about the high CRI emitters I've bought there. I have no professional equipment to compare, all I have is good eyes and a range of known good high CRI emitters and flashlights with which to compare (plus many good O:) old incandescent lamps), though.