New Olight i1R 2 EOS

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phouton
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Bearbreeder I don’t see much risk of it turning on accidentally. I tried holding one end and rubbing the other end along clothing or floor carpeting as hard as I could, and it doesn’t rotate. And I don’t bother rotating much after it turns off, maybe just 1/8 of a turn.

xevious Thanks for the nice comparison pics! The scratched anodization isn’t as bad as I had feared, but still not great. It would be nice to see what clear anodization would look like. Too bad the new one has a colder color temperature.

nydude Someone earlier in this thread reported that Olight Australia confirmed it has LVP. My questions on how to verify this have gone unanswered.

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nydude wrote:
Bearbreeder wrote:
Its disposable because accidental activation to 0v a few times will kill the bat

Its not the best idea to discharge li-on bats to 0v, nor recharge em back up afterwards either

Interesting. Guess I just assumed all half decent companies/lights have that protection built in. Is it confirmed that there is no LVP in this light?

I will confirm that an extra half turn, or so, after it’s turned off is enough to make sure it can’t turn on by being pressed down, and still plenty secure to remain closed and probably water tight.

I haven’t had any issues with accidental activation on my i1R EOS. There is a fair amount of travel after circuit is disconnected that doesn’t appear to compromise protection against dust & moisture ingress. The friction is “just right,” whereby it’s not a pain to turn, yet it’s snug enough not to accidentally rotate.

Also, this isn’t a high usage light. It’s meant for momentary use on occasion. As such, the longevity should be considerable. 10 years? Even then, the advances in miniaturization and LED efficiency will make it vastly obsolete. If you look at RovyVon, a company that specializes in miniature EDC flashlights, you’ll see they’ve just recently made an intentional design for proprietary battery replacement. That may eventually happen for the i1R. But all things considered, a 10 year lifespan isn’t “disposable”. Otherwise, we’d consider all electronics disposable simply because they eventually become obsolete.

phouton wrote:
xevious Thanks for the nice comparison pics! The scratched anodization isn’t as bad as I had feared, but still not great. It would be nice to see what clear anodization would look like. Too bad the new one has a colder color temperature.
You’re welcome. Yeah, it’s actually not that bad. It’s mostly caused by rubbing against the clasp that holds the light. If I used a plastic one, or coated the steel with some plastic, it would probably look much better. But again, it’s car key fob, not house keys… Surrounded by lots of metal, the body would surely get nicked up eventually, as does happen with all anodized flashlights over time. Some more resistant than others.
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nydude wrote:
I just assumed all half decent companies/lights have that protection built in. Is it confirmed that there is no LVP in this light?

your assumption is just wishful thinking
without any supporting evidence
(a post by someone that says a salesman told them something, is NOT evidence, its hearsay)

Show me where it says in writing that the light has built in LVP, otherwise I would assume it does not.
Show me where it says in writing that the battery has built in LVP, otherwise I would assume it does not.

imo, very very very few lights have built in Low voltage protection

imo, only lights that DO have LVP will state that fact in writing

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A twisty is less likely to turn on accidentally than a button switch

But i have had accidental turn ons before going back to the old AAA maglite

It happens, and if it does and there is no LVP

Well time to take it apart and see if u can stuff another 10180 in there Wink

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jon_slider wrote:
your assumption is just wishful thinking
without any supporting evidence
(a post by someone that says a salesman told them something, is NOT evidence, its hearsay)

Show me where it says in writing that the light has built in LVP, otherwise I would assume it does not.
Show me where it says in writing that the battery has built in LVP, otherwise I would assume it does not.

imo, very very very few lights have built in Low voltage protection

imo, only lights that DO have LVP will state that fact in writing

When there’s no LVP (low voltage protection), don’t you witness significant dimming effect? Light will try to run until battery is completely exhausted? And if there’s LVP, it will cut out, not allow a lower output and simply stay shut off to protect the battery, correct? I have charged my i1R EOS perhaps 3 times. One time, it simply shut off while I was using it. It didn’t seem to dim. I then charged it up and it worked fine.
EDIT: I decided to conduct a test. I let the light run down. This time it began to dim. It did not exhibit LVP. The contact in mine is a little flaky. In the early days of ownership, I may have experienced that and misinterpreted it. It’s safe to say the i1R and i1R2 both lack LVP.
phouton
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xevious wrote:
When there’s no LVP (low voltage protection), don’t you witness significant dimming effect? Light will try to run until battery is completely exhausted? And if there’s LVP, it will cut out, not allow a lower output and simply stay shut off to protect the battery, correct?
I tried testing this behavior with the i1R 2. It got very dim, likely sub-lumen, but did not shut off.
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xevious wrote:
When there’s no LVP (low voltage protection), don’t you witness significant dimming effect? Light will try to run until battery is completely exhausted?

yes
and you can confirm this by measuring battery voltage, which will be above 0 volts.

the danger w unprotected ICR chemistry is if discharged below 2.5v, they can overheat during the next recharge.. so.. charge under adult supervision.. do NOT leave on charger unattended overnight

other chemistries such as IMR and INR are less dangerous when overdischarged.

so, we need to learn if the battery is unprotected ICR, as that is the risky one, IF overdischarged, and IF it overheats upon recharging

but these little twisty 10180 lights dont come on at maximum when you press the head after unscrewing, they come on at minimum.. so instead of draining the battery in 15 minutes, it can go for several hours..

in any case, if the light gets dim, recharge it on a fireproof surface, and under your supervision.. touch the light after a few minutes on charge, if it is not too hot to touch, not smoking, and not venting with fire..
dont worry, be happy Smile

xevious wrote:
And if there’s LVP, it will cut out, not allow a lower output and simply stay shut off to protect the battery, correct?

yes
and you can confirm this by measuring battery voltage, which will read 0 volts. Total Zero!

that is because the protection circuit on the battery itself has tripped

if you put it on a charger for a few seconds and then measure the battery, it will be more than 0 volts. Meaning the protection circuit has been reset.


it is possible for the light to get dim before a protection circuit in the battery is triggered

it is also possible to trigger a protection circuit immediately, when using high mode with a depleted cell, that will just blow its fuse when asked to provide maximum power

Ive never heard of a fire from a 10180 battery.. try not to worry
enjoy your cute little light

===
areas for further investigation

learn how to access the battery in your little Olight, so you can use a DMM to check voltages.

is the battery unprotected ICR (most vulnerable to overheating on recharge after overdischarge)
or unprotected IMR or INR (relatively safer, best to recharge promptly if overdischarged, monitor heat during charging, as with ICR)

do you want to buy a protected Klarus 10180?
is protection important in these lights?
does the Klarus cell fit the Olight? (protected cells tend to be a little longer)

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phouton wrote:
I tried testing this behavior with the i1R 2. It got very dim, likely sub-lumen, but did not shut off.
Well that’s a serious bummer. Frankly, I’d gladly have paid $5 more for LVP, which would’ve been within cost reason for a light of this nature. I also did the same test and confirmed that the original i1R EOS also lacks LVP.
jon_slider wrote:
the danger w unprotected ICR chemistry is if discharged below 2.5v, they can overheat during the next recharge.. so.. charge under adult supervision.. do NOT leave on charger unattended overnight
I didn’t know this. I was aware that there would be battery damage, and that with 18650 that can present some challenges. But overheating on subsequent charging… surprising, but understandable now. In fact, I had a couple of old Tenergy AA NiMH batteries I’d been putting to use in “junker” lights and in one case, the cell has been run down to the point of a dimming LED. The Olight S15 seemed to have weak LVP. The light wouldn’t let it run to complete exhaustion, but it was still lower than I’d have expected. After recharging that cell, it was hot to the touch. Not scalding, but very uncomfortable to hold onto with a firm grip. The cell label shows 1.2V, while the charge reading afterward was 1.4v. Not sure if Nitecore i4 charger was misreading the battery, or the battery is simply damaged.
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xevious wrote:
The cell label shows 1.2V, while the charge reading afterward was 1.4v. Not sure if Nitecore i4 charger was misreading the battery, or the battery is simply damaged.

dont worry, it is normal

my eneloops also come off the charger at about 1.4v, even though nominally they are called 1.2v batteries

similarly, the LiIon cells we use in flashlights are nominally 3.7v power sources, and come off the charger at 4.1v. That includes the 10180 LiIon

if you charge when the light gets dim, all will be well
with a DMM you could confirm the voltage of the battery is not below 2.5v
and then recharge with confidence

also, it is better for LiIon to be recharged when half empty, which is at about 3.7v

it is not good to drain them all the way down to 2.5v frequently, in fact, you should really recharge before they go below 3v imo

anyway, you light has not failed you, dont worry Smile

> The Olight S15 seemed to have weak LVP

LVP applies to LiIon, not to NiMh
what you may be observing is that there is a certain minimum power requirement for a circuit to work

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jon_slider wrote:
also, it is better for LiIon to be recharged when half empty, which is at about 3.7v

it is not good to drain them all the way down to 2.5v frequently, in fact, you should really recharge before they go below 3v imo

anyway, you light has not failed you, dont worry Smile

> The Olight S15 seemed to have weak LVP

LVP applies to LiIon, not to NiMh
what you may be observing is that there is a certain minimum power requirement for a circuit to work

Agg… you caught me. I should have known that… no LVP in NiMH cells. I had heard that Li-ion cells don’t have “memory” (unlike NiMH) but have an aging factor. I don’t usually drain my batteries down until the light’s protection circuit kicks in. It’s only once I start seeing short duration before step down from high modes. I will be testing more often though.

What’s the formal technical term for a flashlight cutting power due to low battery, in order to protect the cell? Versus LVP in Li-Ion?

Pete7874
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Free i1R 2 EOS at https://www.olightstore.com/ from 8/13 to 8/17.

Shipping is $5 though. Hope it’s worth that much.

jon_slider
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it is not free

you have to spam your friends

“When you share successfully”

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Thanks Pete7874 for the heads up! I just made an order. Retail price is $20 so should be worth the $5, with the built in charging too. I just hope the LED tint isn’t too cool, as I am a warm white kind of person.

All you gotta do is click the “email” button, but not send anything. No need to spam anything to anyone.

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korpzgrinda wrote:
All you gotta do is click the “email” button, but not send anything. No need to spam anything to anyone.

Exactly what I did. Thumbs Up
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ok, thanks

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Pete7874 wrote:
korpzgrinda wrote:
All you gotta do is click the “email” button, but not send anything. No need to spam anything to anyone.

Exactly what I did. Thumbs Up

Me too.
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Available in Germany, too.

https://www.olightstore.de/customer/free

08/24 to 08/28

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

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The Olight i1R 2 EOS is a very decent key chain flashlight. The low is a usable soft output, while the high is pretty darned bright for something this size. The battery seems to do pretty well with infrequent use. I have mine on my car key chain and probably use it a couple times per week for a few moments. What draws me to use is when I’ve either left my EDC somewhere else, or, I have the car keys in my hands and it’s just so convenient to “twist the tube.” The tint is cool… but not unbearably blue.

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Got my i1R 2. It’s cute. Tint is slightly on the cooler side, but not too bad.

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Pete7874 wrote:
Got my i1R 2. It’s cute. Tint is slightly on the cooler side, but not too bad.

!{max-width:90%}https://i.imgur.com/Fbg6HTT.jpg!


That’s the color I got. It didn’t last long though, after the wife saw it.
Now I got excuse to buy a flashlight. Something like “Well you took my last one.” Big Smile
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buuuu cant get this… why i dont live in us and a Sad

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I feel like I remember issues with parasitic drain on the original version of this. Could someone check on a new version? With only ~90mAh on 10180s, it’s a big concern.

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Scallywag wrote:
I feel like I remember issues with parasitic drain on the original version of this. Could someone check on a new version? With only ~90mAh on 10180s, it’s a big concern.

It’s a 70 mAh cell, according to Olight specs. How could you check for parasitic drain if the cell is not removable? Since it’s a twisty, I wouldn’t expect there to be any parasitic drain though.
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I have a black one from olights christmas sale and it seems to work months after a charge with ocassional use.
I’m with pete7874, its a twisty, shouldn’t have any parasitic drain with the battery disconnected.

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Pete7874 wrote:
Scallywag wrote:
I feel like I remember issues with parasitic drain on the original version of this. Could someone check on a new version? With only ~90mAh on 10180s, it’s a big concern.

It’s a 70 mAh cell, according to Olight specs. How could you check for parasitic drain if the cell is not removable? Since it’s a twisty, I wouldn’t expect there to be any parasitic drain though.

Oh, I didn’t realize the Olights were sealed. I’ve got a small collection of 10180 built-in charger lights, and none of mine are sealed. I guess your best bet would be to remove the head and check the voltage periodically. Not super practical.

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
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nice value 5$ olight i don’t have yet.
ordered Smile

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Scallywag wrote:
Oh, I didn’t realize the Olights were sealed. I’ve got a small collection of 10180 built-in charger lights, and none of mine are sealed. I guess your best bet would be to remove the head and check the voltage periodically. Not super practical.

The head does not come off, or at least I have not found how to remove it.

Recently I got a bit worried when it remained charging for three hours before the green “charged” light came on. I had used it a fair bit but the light was still bright, so the battery wasn’t flat. I wondered if it simply wasn’t charging or something was wrong.

The next time, it took an hour, but that was when it had not been used much at all. Olight’s site says it can be fully charged in 75 minutes.

In spite of its two shortcomings (sealed battery, cool low-CRI emitter) I would be quite disappointed if it died. This is the light I use most often, because it’s there when I need it.

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Comparing i1R 2 to i3E, I think I like the i3E better – it has nicer tint and I much prefer the flexibility awarded by an AAA cell (either alkaline or NiMH). I just wish it had a low mode, like the i1R 2 does.

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Pete7874 wrote:
Comparing i1R 2 to i3E, I think I like the i3E better – it has nicer tint and I much prefer the flexibility awarded by an AAA cell (either alkaline or NiMH). I just wish it had a low mode, like the i1R 2 does.

The i3E came in more than one tint. My older one was on the ugly “angry blue” side while I estimate my desert tan gift light at just below 6000K. Good news is the pill can be easily taken out and the LED can be replaced by a better tinted Luxeon TX. Small footprint, takes some care, but works the same as with MCPCBs (the board can be placed on the heat plate right on the positive teminal button, all components stay in place). You can even do it without soldering iron. Takes very fine tweezers, a pan, and some leaded solder. The ideal emitter swap target for beginners [with good eyes].

Left: Old i3E/4000K, right: Desert tan i3E/approx. 6000K

Now I hope I’ll find a way to open the i1R2. German olightstore.de has the same GAW in a few days Smile Thumbs Up

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Yes, my i3E is the “free” desert tan one. These shots had camera white balance set to 5000K.
i3E on the left, i1R 2 on the right.

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