Desolder led wires, remove retaining ring, desolder wires from old driver and solder them to a new board. Everything else is reversible as removal. Straight forward i’d say.
Desolder led wires, remove retaining ring, desolder wires from old driver and solder them to a new board. Everything else is reversible as removal. Straight forward i’d say.
No the driver board itself, and it’s not straight forward. I have done several driver fixes/changes on the FW3A’s the new boards are over size, so the ones I have changed were do to improper fitting. One was so loose from the factory, when tightened down by the retainer, the signal ring was under the retainer ring? 2 from the factory were just thrown in and tightened down they were not properly fit/seated. Most of the material is taken off the key or the flat that locks the driver into the driver pocket, this keeps the signal ring on the driver centered, not removing material from around the main diameter of the driver.
Ok, well i had to hold the driver spring centered while tightening the ring. But i asume everyone will do the same. If the driver is a bit larger than the seat pocket then some rework of the head can be done via elbow grease system
Ok, well i had to hold the driver spring centered while tightening the ring. But i asume everyone will do the same. If the driver is a bit larger than the seat pocket then some rework of the head can be done via elbow grease system
Also a note that new drivers don’t have a slot as old ones had.
Relax Kawi…these things are cheap so dramatizing won’t do you no good
Maybe the “NEW” lights don’t have the key flat in the heat sink but the new drivers do still have the flat. I have purchased many. !{width:100%}https://i.postimg.cc/k44×4wcj/IMG-1267.jpg!
Well, mine is mainly a shelf queen, due to the fact the button way-too-easily activates when pocket carried. But, after reading this discussion, I’m going to make it a shelf queen-on-a-metal-lid. I suppose I could take the battery out, but I prefer to keep cells in all my lights or I’d never use them.
The FW3A has a hair-trigger switch. To avoid accidents you can:
a- Lock it out. Turning the head ¼ turn does not really mechanically lock it out since there a two parallel electrical circuits. To make that happen you have to unscrew the head so far it almost comes of.
b- Electronically lock it out. But you still can drain the light accidentally because in lockout the switch provides you with a momentary moon mode.
c- Do what I have done HERE. The light is “alive” but it will take a miracle before you accidentally can press the switch.
As for the rest of it: on receiving a new light I always take it apart as far as possible. Look for coarse threads, foreign particles and debris, and lube various threads and rings before I put in a battery. And please do remember, this light was designed to accommodate an UNprotected flat top battery. Like the 30Q.
—
You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.
Also a note that new drivers don’t have a slot as old ones had.
Relax Kawi…these things are cheap so dramatizing won’t do you no good
Maybe the “NEW” lights don’t have the key flat in the heat sink but the new drivers do still have the flat. I have purchased many. !{width:100%}https://i.postimg.cc/k44×4wcj/IMG-1267.jpg!
I did loosen the tailcap about a quarter turn today before inserting the battery, then tightened it down (which, coincidentally, is what the troubleshooting thread says to do). I’m guessing this has something to do with it.
Yup.
Remove the head. Then tighten the tailcap. Then insert a battery and tighten the head.
Yep, no dice. Issue still occurs.
The driver retaining ring is also tight.
Any other ideas?
I don’t know if the battery is the problem or not, but it looks like you have a fake Samsung 30Q in the video. 30Q’s have a 3 post positive end, looks like yours is 4 posts. Did you buy that battery from an Aliexpress store? If so, almost all of them are selling fake 30Q’s.
This is an authentic 30Q. Notice the 3 prong positive cap
Hey there, thanks for the info. Mine are 3 prongs. That angle just makes it look like a 4 prong. Watch from this point: https://youtu.be/EncF1elFhyk?t=53
I did loosen the tailcap about a quarter turn today before inserting the battery, then tightened it down (which, coincidentally, is what the troubleshooting thread says to do). I’m guessing this has something to do with it.
Yup.
Remove the head. Then tighten the tailcap. Then insert a battery and tighten the head.
Yep, no dice. Issue still occurs.
The driver retaining ring is also tight.
Any other ideas?
I don’t know if the battery is the problem or not, but it looks like you have a fake Samsung 30Q in the video. 30Q’s have a 3 post positive end, looks like yours is 4 posts. Did you buy that battery from an Aliexpress store? If so, almost all of them are selling fake 30Q’s.
This is an authentic 30Q. Notice the 3 prong positive cap
Hey there, thanks for the info. Mine are 3 prongs. That angle just makes it look like a 4 prong. Watch from this point: https://youtu.be/EncF1elFhyk?t=53
Those still don’t look correct. The prongs are way too big. Look at my picture and the spacing between the prongs, then look at yours. Or post an up close still picture
edit… looks you have a button top cell there. These FW3A’s require flat tops for spacing purposes. Button tops will add a few extra mm to the length of the cell. I’d bet that light will work just fine with a flat top 30Q
Those still don’t look correct. The prongs are way too big. Look at my picture and the spacing between the prongs, then look at yours. Or post an up close still picture
edit… looks you have a button top cell there. These FW3A’s require flat tops for spacing purposes. Button tops will add a few extra mm to the length of the cell. I’d bet that light will work just fine with a flat top 30Q
That looks a standard flat top 30Q to me. You can tell because the button does not rise above the level of the wrapper.
I cannot tell from the video clip, if that is a button top… you will likely have to stretch the springs to get it working with a true flattop. Don’t ask me how I know…
Hmmmm, very interesting. My batteries are flat tops with 3 prongs. However, I do see your point about the prong width. Mine are significantly wider. I’ll start another thread in the battery forum. Thanks for the heads up.
After reading this thread, it makes me nervous as hell now about this light. I’ve had a couple instances myself of this light not turning off right away. Sometimes when double clicking to turn on turbo, the light won’t shut off after clicking multiple tries. After fiddling with the switch some more it will finally shut off. This is not a good thing. If a light can’t be trusted, what good is it?
Was I just extremely lucky with the two examples I had in-hand? Both were slightly flaky upon re-assembly, but following the troubleshooting steps made them super reliable. I haven’t had a single problem since the switch O-ring mod, and the only problems before that were accidental button presses.
Was I just extremely lucky with the two examples I had in-hand? Both were slightly flaky upon re-assembly, but following the troubleshooting steps made them super reliable. I haven’t had a single problem since the switch O-ring mod, and the only problems before that were accidental button presses.
Beem wondering the same. Other than a couple accidental presses, haven’t had any issues at all with my two.
How did you fit the new driver?
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Desolder led wires, remove retaining ring, desolder wires from old driver and solder them to a new board. Everything else is reversible as removal. Straight forward i’d say.
WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube
No the driver board itself, and it’s not straight forward. I have done several driver fixes/changes on the FW3A’s the new boards are over size, so the ones I have changed were do to improper fitting. One was so loose from the factory, when tightened down by the retainer, the signal ring was under the retainer ring? 2 from the factory were just thrown in and tightened down they were not properly fit/seated. Most of the material is taken off the key or the flat that locks the driver into the driver pocket, this keeps the signal ring on the driver centered, not removing material from around the main diameter of the driver.
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Ok, well i had to hold the driver spring centered while tightening the ring. But i asume everyone will do the same. If the driver is a bit larger than the seat pocket then some rework of the head can be done via elbow grease system
WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube
Yeah right…..
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Also a note that new drivers don’t have a slot as old ones had.
Relax Kawi...these things are cheap so dramatizing won’t do you no good
WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Huh, need to check what i messed up
WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube
Where can I get the tail switch?
Thank you!
FIAT LUX!
Well, mine is mainly a shelf queen, due to the fact the button way-too-easily activates when pocket carried. But, after reading this discussion, I’m going to make it a shelf queen-on-a-metal-lid. I suppose I could take the battery out, but I prefer to keep cells in all my lights or I’d never use them.
The FW3A has a hair-trigger switch. To avoid accidents you can:
a- Lock it out. Turning the head ¼ turn does not really mechanically lock it out since there a two parallel electrical circuits. To make that happen you have to unscrew the head so far it almost comes of.
b- Electronically lock it out. But you still can drain the light accidentally because in lockout the switch provides you with a momentary moon mode.
c- Do what I have done HERE. The light is “alive” but it will take a miracle before you accidentally can press the switch.
As for the rest of it: on receiving a new light I always take it apart as far as possible. Look for coarse threads, foreign particles and debris, and lube various threads and rings before I put in a battery. And please do remember, this light was designed to accommodate an UNprotected flat top battery. Like the 30Q.
You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.
Lumintop Victor Zou
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Thank you!
FIAT LUX!
Hey there, thanks for the info. Mine are 3 prongs. That angle just makes it look like a 4 prong. Watch from this point: https://youtu.be/EncF1elFhyk?t=53
Yep.
Those still don’t look correct. The prongs are way too big. Look at my picture and the spacing between the prongs, then look at yours. Or post an up close still pictureedit… looks you have a button top cell there. These FW3A’s require flat tops for spacing purposes. Button tops will add a few extra mm to the length of the cell. I’d bet that light will work just fine with a flat top 30Q
That looks a standard flat top 30Q to me. You can tell because the button does not rise above the level of the wrapper.
I cannot tell from the video clip, if that is a button top… you will likely have to stretch the springs to get it working with a true flattop. Don’t ask me how I know…
EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C
Hmmmm, very interesting. My batteries are flat tops with 3 prongs. However, I do see your point about the prong width. Mine are significantly wider. I’ll start another thread in the battery forum. Thanks for the heads up.
Link to new post and photos: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/70414
After reading this thread, it makes me nervous as hell now about this light. I’ve had a couple instances myself of this light not turning off right away. Sometimes when double clicking to turn on turbo, the light won’t shut off after clicking multiple tries. After fiddling with the switch some more it will finally shut off. This is not a good thing. If a light can’t be trusted, what good is it?
I had another hot pocket with mine yesterday.
Kind of awkward when somebody at the dog park says “your pants are glowing ….”?
Was I just extremely lucky with the two examples I had in-hand? Both were slightly flaky upon re-assembly, but following the troubleshooting steps made them super reliable. I haven’t had a single problem since the switch O-ring mod, and the only problems before that were accidental button presses.
Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category
ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100
Beem wondering the same. Other than a couple accidental presses, haven’t had any issues at all with my two.
Always had issues with the light going into stepped ramping (I hate it)
Finally looked it up. Simple 3 button press.
The guide said
“reasons to take off tail cap:
Don’t
To change the clip
Because you just want to ;)”
Well…now I wanted to.
First thing I noticed was the button wasn’t as smooth or easy to press.
Second was it starts turning on by itself.
Oops
Fw3a, d4v2, k1, e01, s2r cu, s2+ cu sr, s2+ sand sr, c8.
East bAy area, California
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