✌ FREEME - ASTROLUX MF05 SBT90.2 7000lm 3000m+ Thrower Searchlight

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the4ds9
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For the fandle tailcap, you need to insert a nickel into the slot and rotate until properly seated/tightened. You need a nickel for that last little bit of leverage.

Hope this helps.

liteupmynite
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JasonWW wrote:
All that matters is the battery length and shape. Capacity and chemical type are irrelevant. Before assuming that the fan driver is defective, I would make sure that we are getting power to the fan driver. The lack of initial flashing button light indicates it may not be getting power.

 

I dismantled the fan handle as much as I dare. I can access the wires connected to the top of the fan motor. I assume the fan driver is somewhere inside the handle, under the button's location. Any suggestions on how I can test the voltage leading into the fan driver without any further dismantling of the fan handle and/or cutting wires?

 

Zandar wrote:

liteupmynite,

I don't have my light yet, but several people have said that you really have to crank down on the fan handle tail cap to make the connection work. And that hand tightening wasn't enough. There is a video on youtube showing the fan handle with your battery, so  perhaps it's just a matter of really tightening the cap? Good luck on getting it to work, Zandar

 

I saw that video and I tried that.

the4ds9 wrote:
For the fandle tailcap, you need to insert a nickel into the slot and rotate until properly seated/tightened. You need a nickel for that last little bit of leverage. Hope this helps.

I used a quarter to tighten the tail cap.

 

 

 

 

I sent a message from BangGood.com requesting help with the defective light. No reply yet.

 

Thanks everyone for your replies.

JasonWW
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liteupmynite wrote:

I dismantled the fan handle as much as I dare. I can access the wires connected to the top of the fan motor. I assume the fan driver is somewhere inside the handle, under the button’s location. Any suggestions on how I can test the voltage leading into the fan driver without any further dismantling of the fan handle and/or cutting wires?



I don’t have many details on how the fandle is designed. Can you look down the battery tube and see a pcb? Does it have a spring, button or solder blob for the cathode to contact? I would compare it to other peoples to make sure nothing is different. For instance, maybe you’re supposed to have a button soldered in the middle in order to make contact and your light may be missing that button which is preventing the battery for making contact.

Is the spring in the tail cap putting tension on the battery when you screw it in?

Are all the bare metal sections of the tail cap where they make contact all clean and shiny?

Spring and spring holder clean?

Battery ends clean?

Is enough of the anodization removed where the fan tail cap contacts the body? If not, it might need to be scraped a little.

These are all the basic things that you can check without opening up the fan. If all of these parts look good and you’re tightening up the tail cap snug and still not getting power, then there’s not much else you can do. If you have a spare battery you can try that. Maybe even an 18650 would be worth trying. If none of that works you just have to contact Astrolux about getting a replacement fan. I wouldn’t recommend disassembling it because you would probably void the warranty.

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liteupmynite
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JasonWW wrote:
liteupmynite wrote:

I dismantled the fan handle as much as I dare. I can access the wires connected to the top of the fan motor. I assume the fan driver is somewhere inside the handle, under the button's location. Any suggestions on how I can test the voltage leading into the fan driver without any further dismantling of the fan handle and/or cutting wires?

I don't have many details on how the fandle is designed. Can you look down the battery tube and see a pcb? Does it have a spring, button or solder blob for the cathode to contact? I would compare it to other peoples to make sure nothing is different. For instance, maybe you're supposed to have a button soldered in the middle in order to make contact and your light may be missing that button which is preventing the battery for making contact. Is the spring in the tail cap putting tension on the battery when you screw it in? Are all the bare metal sections of the tail cap where they make contact all clean and shiny? Spring and spring holder clean? Battery ends clean? Is enough of the anodization removed where the fan tail cap contacts the body? If not, it might need to be scraped a little. These are all the basic things that you can check without opening up the fan. If all of these parts look good and you're tightening up the tail cap snug and still not getting power, then there's not much else you can do. If you have a spare battery you can try that. Maybe even an 18650 would be worth trying. If none of that works you just have to contact Astrolux about getting a replacement fan. I wouldn't recommend disassembling it because you would probably void the warranty.

 

Thanks JasonWW,

 

Looking down the battery tube, I see a spring soldered in 2 places to a PCB. However, there are no visible surface mounted components on this side. There is no access to anything else within the battery tube where the spring is soldered. Also, on the fan side of the battery tube, there are 2 wires running from the battery tube to the fan itself. I checked voltages there when clicking the button quickly 3 times; result -> 0.0v.

Both the battery tube and end cap have springs. There are no solder blobs. And yes, the springs put a fair amount of tension on the battery contacts surfaces. All contact surfaces are clean, including battery and springs. I have 2 batteries which have been tested as good and at 4.2v. Batteries have the same specs as BangGood recommended on the production page.

Also, there is clean bare aluminum surfaces inside the battery tube and on the end cap where the two surfaces make contact. I always snugged up the end cap with a quarter for each test.

I also tried out an 18650 high-drain battery with similar specs as the 21700 as far as drain ratings. 

 

I sent 2 messages 2 days ago from the BangGood.com site about this issue. No response yet. They state responses are within 24 hours. I also sent a direct message via my email today to Cservice@banggood.com (from a google search) and to trigger@deals.banggood.com (from the original email order confirmation). There was no chat or phone support available to post-sales issues. They seem to want to make if very difficult for the customer to contact them.

I will give updates on this issue.

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

JasonWW
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Oh yeah, Banggood will definitely take their time trying to wear are you down. Most of these companies will try to drag things out and irritate you so that you will give up. You just have to stick with it. They were closed over the weekend and are coming into work right about now. So you might hear back in the next day or two. They may ask you to make a video showing you putting a battery in, tightening it up and then what it’s doing. If so, use a low-resolution like 480p in order to keep the file size small in case you need to send it as an attachment.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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Theodore41
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liteupmynite wrote:

JasonWW wrote:
All that matters is the battery length and shape. Capacity and chemical type are irrelevant. Before assuming that the fan driver is defective, I would make sure that we are getting power to the fan driver. The lack of initial flashing button light indicates it may not be getting power.

 


I dismantled the fan handle as much as I dare. I can access the wires connected to the top of the fan motor. I assume the fan driver is somewhere inside the handle, under the button’s location. Any suggestions on how I can test the voltage leading into the fan driver without any further dismantling of the fan handle and/or cutting wires?


 


Zandar wrote:

liteupmynite,


I don’t have my light yet, but several people have said that you really have to crank down on the fan handle tail cap to make the connection work. And that hand tightening wasn’t enough. There is a video on youtube showing the fan handle with your battery, so  perhaps it’s just a matter of really tightening the cap? Good luck on getting it to work, Zandar



 


I saw that video and I tried that.


the4ds9 wrote:
For the fandle tailcap, you need to insert a nickel into the slot and rotate until properly seated/tightened. You need a nickel for that last little bit of leverage. Hope this helps.

I used a quarter to tighten the tail cap.


 


 


 


 


I sent a message from BangGood.com requesting help with the defective light. No reply yet.


 


Thanks everyone for your replies.


Try chatting via messenger,they answer for sure.Make a video of the defecting system,so as to send it to them.
liteupmynite
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JasonWW wrote:
Oh yeah, Banggood will definitely take their time trying to wear are you down. Most of these companies will try to drag things out and irritate you so that you will give up. You just have to stick with it. They were closed over the weekend and are coming into work right about now. So you might hear back in the next day or two. They may ask you to make a video showing you putting a battery in, tightening it up and then what it's doing. If so, use a low-resolution like 480p in order to keep the file size small in case you need to send it as an attachment.

 

I've spoken with PayPal today and they said if I don't hear from them in 3 days or if they are not cooperative, I can open up a claim and it might be possible to get a 100% refund. we'll see.

JasonWW
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liteupmynite wrote:

JasonWW wrote:
Oh yeah, Banggood will definitely take their time trying to wear are you down. Most of these companies will try to drag things out and irritate you so that you will give up. You just have to stick with it. They were closed over the weekend and are coming into work right about now. So you might hear back in the next day or two. They may ask you to make a video showing you putting a battery in, tightening it up and then what it’s doing. If so, use a low-resolution like 480p in order to keep the file size small in case you need to send it as an attachment.

 


I’ve spoken with PayPal today and they said if I don’t hear from them in 3 days or if they are not cooperative, I can open up a claim and it might be possible to get a 100% refund. we’ll see.


Usually PayPal will allow them a couple of weeks to make it right. Or if you open a claim they will allow them a couple of weeks. I’m not sure why they said a 100% refund when it’s only the fan that has a problem.

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grin
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Battery contact is glued in place and the fan driver is under the switch. So take the switch boot out and the driverand switxch will come out as one.

JasonWW
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grin wrote:
Battery contact is glued in place and the fan driver is under the switch. So take the switch boot out and the driverand switxch will come out as one.

Cool. Do you happen to have any pictures? I’m pretty curious as to how it’s built.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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Dzeric
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For those using USA Priority Mail there is hope, mine cleared customs yesterday and arrived today.
It is worth the wait Big Smile , this thing is just the kind of crazy I was hoping for. I’ll stop giggling to myself eventually… probably

Eric's_thrower_...
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(UPDATE: Nov. 2nd 2020: Now the fan works. I have replaced the bad controller circuit board with a simple on/off switch. I un-soldered the circuit board and soldered the two black wires together. The red and white wires are soldered onto a switch from a battery operated Halloween candle that fits into the opening)
https://youtu.be/I23IJ5d2Fm8
The fan handle on my new Astrolux MF05 flashlight does not work. There were no instructions about the fan included, and there was no “+” or “-” symbol to tell which way to put the battery in. I have read online that it needs a triple-click with the button to turn it on, but it still doesn’t work.
I have used a good fully charged 21700 battery, tightened the cap securely, and put the positive end in first. I only saw the green light in the button light up one time when putting the cap on, now it never lights up after many tries. I suspect the control module is blown.
I have contacted Banggood customer service, but have not been able to get a replacement fan.
I want to write a review and post videos about how incredibly bright the MF05 is, but the fan not working distracts from how good it is.

Eric

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Eric's_thrower_flashlights wrote:
https://youtu.be/I23IJ5d2Fm8
The fan handle on my new Astrolux MF05 flashlight does not work. There were no instructions about the fan included, and there was no “+” or “-” symbol to tell which way to put the battery in. I have read online that it needs a triple-click with the button to turn it on, but it still doesn’t work.
I have used a good fully charged 21700 battery, tightened the cap securely, and put the positive end in first. I only saw the green light in the button light up one time when putting the cap on, now it never lights up after many tries. I suspect the control module is blown.
I have contacted Banggood customer service, but have not been able to get a replacement fan.
I want to write a review and post videos about how incredibly bright the MF05 is, but the fan not working distracts from how good it is.

Go to messenger and find Banggood.Then find the chat and try to communicate with them.They answer always.
Eric's_thrower_...
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I haven’t gotten Banggood to give me another fan, even though the problems with the fan are happening to others.
(UPDATE: Nov. 2nd 2020: Now it works. I have replaced the bad controller circuit board with a simple on/off switch. I un-soldered the circuit board and soldered the two black wires together. The red and white wires are soldered onto a switch from a battery operated Halloween candle that fits into the opening)
The flashlight itself is working great, here’s my YouTube video comparing it to the MF04, with obvious results: https://youtu.be/s67ZY8EAqpQ

Eric

liteupmynite
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I'm waiting for BangNotSoGood to review my posted video and all relevant information about the fan handle defect. But what has been said before, they seem to be dragging their feet as usually. They just promised to get back to me within 72 hours after I threatened to open up a claim with PayPal.

Eric's_thrower_...
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I replied to Banggood customer service again attempting to get another fan handle for my MF05. My reply included this:

“I have been talking with other owners of this flashlight on Forums, Facebook and YouTube. The fan not working is a known issue and I am not the only customer with this problem. The fan handle is made separately and that is what I need.”
(UPDATE: Nov. 2nd 2020: Now it works. I have replaced the bad controller circuit board with a simple on/off switch. I un-soldered the circuit board and soldered the two black wires together. The red and white wires are soldered onto a switch from a battery operated Halloween candle that fits into the opening)

Eric

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I collect throwers. Really wanted a MF05 but just couldn’t bring myself to roll the dice on poor astrocrap quality. (been burned by astrocrap before) Listening to my spidysense paid off!

grin
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I forgot to post these. I was wondering if I could fit lens in there to build a scope.
Front with fan removed

Fan driver

Back of the battery contact board looking into the driver cavity

Eric's_thrower_...
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Three questions:
You are thinking of putting some kind of camera lens there?
Was your fan working?
(UPDATE: Nov. 2nd 2020: Now it works. I have replaced the bad controller circuit board with a simple on/off switch. I un-soldered the circuit board and soldered the two black wires together. The red and white wires are soldered onto a switch from a battery operated Halloween candle that fits into the opening)

I attached a photo of the light in action:
!3140 meters away!:https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=3425530870802865&set=gm.77340493...

Eric

grin
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It was working I just have a bad habit of pulling things apart. I have a heap of small lens was thinking may have been able to mount some in there.

Dzeric
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I noticed something odd today – I could no longer access the highest brightness for more than a few seconds before it would drop in brightness. The temperature was not an issue as it was cold to the touch. The individual cells were about 3.85V, well above anything I’d consider low.
Anyone else notice this? I’m recharging to see if I can confirm what I suspect that voltage is the issue.
update – after recharging it seems ok. I’d be interested to see if it happens again at a similar voltage. It would be disappointing if it could only deliver its brightest mode when batteries are 3.9V+

Eric's_thrower_...
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The photo below is from my comment on my post on the "Flashaholics Anonymous" Facebook page, September 18th. Other photos are there also. It shows the tools and parts used to replace the switch. I also tested the switch and connections with a multimeter.

1) Unscrew the ring holding the button and switch with snap ring or needle nose pliers.

2) Pull the switch out and unsolder it. I took a picture first so I could reattach it if needed.

3) Solder the two black wires together. I put some heat shrink tubing off to the side on one of the wires before soldering, and the moved it over the soldered connection and shrunk it in place with a heat gun. This prevents short circuits and makes the connection more secure. (It's better than electrical tape)

4) Put the battery in and test the fan by touching the red and white wires together. (An alligator clip can be used)

5) Find a switch small enough to fit in the about 18mm hole. I improvised with  Halloween LED candle switch because it was black and could be cut with diagonal pliers and filed to the right size. other tealight candles, toys or devices with small switches could be used.

6) Place heat shrink tubing on the red and white wires, slide it to the sides, and solder the wires to the correct connectors on the switch. Slide the tubing over the connections and shrink it carefully with a heat gun. (I overheated it on the first time and the switch started melting, but fortunately the candles were a two packsmile) Holding a hot soldering iron close to the tubing without touching it can work also.

7) Test the switch, and then tighten it in place with the original threaded ring. Done.

This photo is from my comment on my post on the "Flashaholics Anonymous" Facebook page, September 18th. Other photos are there also. It shows the tools and parts used to replace the switch. I also tested the switch and connections with a multimeter.

1) Unscrew the ring holding the button and switch with snap ring or needle nose pliers.

2) Pull the switch out and unsolder it. I took a picture first so I could reattach it if needed.

3) Solder the two black wires together. I put some heat shrink tubing off to the side on one of the wires before soldering, and the moved it over the soldered connection and shrunk it in place with a heat gun. This prevents short circuits and makes the connection more secure. (It's better than electrical tape)

4) Put the battery in and test the fan by touching the red and white wires together. (An alligator clip can be used)

5) Find a switch small enough to fit in the about 18mm hole. I improvised with  Halloween LED candle switch because it was black and could be cut with diagonal pliers and filed to the right size. other tealight candles, toys or devices with small switches could be used.

6) Place heat shrink tubing on the red and white wires, slide it to the sides, and solder the wires to the correct connectors on the switch. Slide the tubing over the connections and shrink it carefully with a heat gun. (I overheated it on the first time and the switch started melting, but fortunately the candles were a two packsmile) Holding a hot soldering iron close to the tubing without touching it can work also.

7) Test the switch, and then tighten it in place with the original threaded ring. Done.

Eric

liteupmynite
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Eric's_thrower_flashlights wrote:
!Bad fan driver circuit board!:https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=3434792603210025&set=p.343479260... The only problem with my MF05 is that the fan in the handle won't turn on. I would like to replace this fan driver circuit board, or find out if I can replace it with a simple on/off switch

 

Facebook linky seems to be bad.

zoulas
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The fan requires three clicks to turn on, per some web sites, 1 or 2 clicks does nothing.

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    I have noticed the same issue, I noticed when the light is cold it does this. When the light got warm it no longer did this. I put the light in front of a heater to warm it up and it no longer stepped down immediately. 

We are the Light Commanders

Eric's_thrower_...
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Unfortunately, my fan had already died before I learned about triple-clicking (why triple? why no instructions included about the fan?). I think the fan driver circuit board went bad somehow, and now I’m trying to replace it.
(UPDATE: Nov. 2nd 2020: Now it works. I have replaced the bad controller circuit board with a simple on/off switch. I un-soldered the circuit board and soldered the two black wires together. The red and white wires are soldered onto a switch from a battery operated Halloween candle that fits into the opening)

Eric

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What brand and model of batteries were you using? Some batteries have more amps than others and might power turbo better. Like Samsung 30s.
At first, I was using Samsung 35s, and they worked fine. Now I use Samsung 30s.

(Update 10/23/2020 – I noticed the manual says: “Built-in low voltage protection, which will limit the maximum power output when the battery output is low.”)

Eric

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I could’ve sworn I bought 8×30Q (15A max), turns out I bought 35E (8A max).

If I’m reading the datasheet for the the 90.2 correctly it looks like it maxes out at 3.8V and 18A (just under 70W). Ignoring inefficiencies of the driver for now – that means when populated with 8 cells (lets say at 3.8V each for simplicity sake) each cell only sees 2.25A.
I know it is a little more complicated than that as the cells are arranged in pairs, then in parallel, but the watts required from each individual battery should still be about 8.55W.
It seems like we don’t need super high drain cells for this light, or at least we shouldn’t. Using my (mistakenly purchased) 35E’s at 4.1V it can run turbo fine with only one carrier populated with 4 batteries and the other left empty.

More testing might be needed, I’m interested how it behaves when low again, might’ve been a fluke the first time.

Update – tested again at low voltage, and running warm.
Short version – I think it was just low batteries, no issues. (easy to loose track of time on turbo with a light like this Smile )
Longer version – When it gets warm it does a slow dim to a lower mode, which is normal, but not the sudden jump to a lower mode I saw the first time. Testing voltage from the tail cap shows it really sagging on turbo, and being that li-ion batteries have a gradual voltage drop under load until they get low at which point they drop off steeply, I think that is what was happening and it suddenly switches to a lower mode. (At first when I tested I pulled the batteries out and checked voltages which only showed me what the batteries recovered to over time, not the voltage under load during the test, so that wasn’t valid.) Maybe if I had been using higher drain cells (30Q for instance) it might’ve been better.

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Specs may say 18 amps max but that's not close to our max. The GT90 was measured at 27 amps and I don't see this MF05 driving it less than the GT90.

Eric's_thrower_...
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I noticed the same thing, when my batteries were down to 3.92 volts each measured on my volt meter, The brightness stepped down in a couple seconds from turbo the the level down from there.
The batteries were 30Q Samsungs, the light wasn’t hot and it was 47°F outside.
I think it is a voltage issue.

(Update 10/23/2020 – I noticed the manual says: “Built-in low voltage protection, which will limit the maximum power output when the battery output is low.”)

Eric

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